Home-made Router Table from Scrap

I have several jobs lined up over the next few months which will involve the use of a router. These include making several wooden doors. Much of the planking I will be using will need to have moulded edges so I thought that mounting the router on a table would enable me to process them more accurately, easily and quickly.

This is the finished router table in use.

Introduction

I have a plunge router and I use it mainly for producing decorative edges or rounding off square-cut edges for comfort (see the dry toilet seat for this very important finishing touch) . From time-to-time I would like to have the router fixed to a table with the cutting bit uppermost. This so as to enable me to better guide the wood being machined, often the case when the wood is quite narrow.

Some years ago I made a very crude attempt at holding the router in this orientation and although I successfully obtained an end result, I was not satisfied with the arrangement.

Design

I decided that the router table could be put onto a workbench or a Workmate when in operation and not a permanent fixture in the workshop. The router was to be attached to a thin mounting plate, the whole assembly would fit into an appropriate hole in the table top. The top of the table would be wide enough to allow the fitting of guides.

Construction

I considered that the simplest construction was for the table to be fabricated from four panels of chipboard which, whilst not being economic in material or weight, would furnish a rigid structure. As luck would have it, a non-standard size pallet came my way the top of which was covered in a sheet of plastic-coated chipboard. Once removed from the pallet, this sheet was found to be smooth and flat, a perfect surface for the table-top.

The first stage was therefore to cut the four pieces and for this I used the circular saw and guided the saw with a batten clamped to the workpiece.

For the router mounting plate fate was once again on my side, as I acquired a thinner (7.5mm) sheet of plastic coated board. I determined the size for the mounting plate by measuring the maximum distance between the machine’s handles as one dimension and the diameter of the router baseplate as the other dimension. To both these measurements I added 20mm. This was because the hole in the router table would need to be at least these 2 dimensions and the mounting plate would need to be bigger so as to fit onto a ‘ledge’ cut into the table top.

Once cut to size, I determined the centre of the rectangle and drilled a 4mm pilot hole through the piece. I then determined where the mounting plate was going to fit in the table top. This was in the middle of the long axis of the table but was off-centred at right angles to this owing to my needing space to attach guides. When I’d marked the position for the centre of the mounting plate I drilled through the table top with the 4mm drill. Thus I could then align the hole in the plate with the hole in the tabletop and use the 4mm drill bit inserted through the two holes to hold the mounting plate in the correct position. I used a try-square against the table top edge to ensure the plate remained square whilst I traced its outline with a marker pen onto the tabletop  surface.

I then needed to cut a rebate to the depth of the mounting plate thickness following the inside perimeter of the rectangle I had just drawn. I used the router to do this using a 10mm bit.

Once this rebate was made, I could then cut out the inner portion of the rectangle using a jigsaw. The mounting plate was then put in place to check its’ upper face was the same as the tabletop. I then marked and drilled the plates’ screw holes.

To mark the positions of the holes for attaching the router to the mounting plate I first removed the plastic face from the router base and placed it, centrally, on the underside of the mounting plate. The four relevant holes could then be marked. It was whilst I was doing this that  I realised that I would have to make provision for two screws on the router base which were proud of the cast alloy surface. The positions of these were also marked and I then cut the clearance in the mounting plate with the router. The mounting holes were drilled and countersunk.

The centre hole was enlarged to allow the biggest of my cutters to pass through.

The table was then assembled. I cut 4 pieces of 50mm x 25mm (2” x 1”) pallet wood to that of the table length and screwed them on the inside face of the two table side pieces along the top and bottom edges. I then stood these side pieces on their long edges and placed the bottom panel on top so that the edges of each panel were in line. Using a try-square to ensure squareness the base was screwed to the 50mm x 25mm wood. Turning the assembly over, the top of the table was then screwed in place, checking to make sure that all remained square before tightening the screws.

Test Run

Once the router was attached to the mounting plate, its cable was fed through the hole in the table top and lowered into position in the rebated hole.

For a test run I needed a fence against which the wood could be guided. For this I selected a piece of  125mm x 25mm (5” x 1”) dressed and varnished pine recuperated from a shop display. I used the 10mm bit to cut a clearance slot in the middle of the wood and clamped the fence to the table top. I found this to be a very effective way to guide the stuff . The end results were very satisfactory, I found the best working height for the table was obtained by clamping it to a Workmate.

... and now if you'd like to, sit back and watch the film

All the best and thanks for dropping by. Please feel free to share this article, comment and/or ask for further information.

Until next time!

Cheers, Andy

© Andy Colley 2016
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Pallet wood dressmaking and display dummy Part 1 The base and pole

Over the Christmas holidays, Sue was asked to make costumes for a new small independent film company started by her niece Emily. As the budget was tight and as Sue wanted to create a film wardrobe using the the best possible fabrics and accessories, she decided to use as much upcycled and refashioned textile and clothing as possible.

The actors and actresses are all in Scotland and as we are here in France, there was no possibility for fittings nor for making tee shirt and duct tape type DIY mannequins. So Sue had an idea that we could make dummies for all of the characters out of pallet wood. These would be constructed in a similar style to the wire dress forms which just cover the basic measurements viz shoulders, bust/chest, waist and hips. Once Emily had given us all the vital statistics we then went about sourcing a central pole on which to thread them. We are fortunate to have friends who own an organic shop, not only for the discarded vegetables for our poultry but also for pallets, shipping cases and from time to time old product display stands. A few weeks ago the latter came our way in the form of a 2 metre long wooden pole

Design

The most difficult part of the design, once we had gathered all the materials together, was in working out the distances between the key measurements but we eventually pieced together bits from several websites (included below). It was also really interesting to find how many variables there are in ‘standard’ sizes of clothing and how much better off we were tailoring the costumes to exact measurements rather than looking at labels. Below shows the diagram we worked from to ‘standardise’ our basic dummy measurements. As we were given the measurements individually and the ones we found on the web used different units we had quite a mix! However, as Sue was incorporating some vintage clothing into her designs, we did end up finding it useful to have both SI and imperial units.

Another useful measurement tip we picked up surfing around the net was that the bust to high shoulder measurement and the centre bust to waist line are variable according to dress size. Thus in the UK, for example, the bust to high shoulder length at size 8 is fixed at 10½" with an extra ¼" for each size above. So depending on the sizes you are dealing with and the units you are using - it is worth working this out before starting to assemble the dummy. Unless of course you want to measure everyone individually, which in the case of petite or very tall subjects you may need to do.

The great advantages of this type of dummy are:

• it can be stored away in a very small space once not in use,

• it is at a great height for working on and trying out designs.

• you can create any size for both men, woman and children on the same mannequin.
• it can even be made in stiff card if you have no wood available to make   the form,

• by stretching a tee shirt over the form and/or padding it out with fabric you can make a great display stand for yard sales, craft fairs or for photographing items for sale on etsy or ebay

• if you are only going to use it once, you can recycle the materials into  something else, even if it is just firewood and a curtain pole!

If you are wanting a dummy with more contour to it rather than just key measurements then you can make a padded fabric jacket to go over it or even just simply, a stretched tee shirt would work. This dummy could also be practical and decorative for someone selling home-made or vintage clothing and/or jewellery. As a display stand, it can be easily taken down and packed into the back of a car, in fact it will be going with us on an Upcycling Exhibition in April.

The key sizes of each actor were reproduced as ‘ovals’ in wood, which could then be positioned on the central pole at the appropriate positions.

 

Fabrication

The wooden pole had a diameter of 55mm, which was fortunate as I had a hole saw capable of cutting a hole 57mm in diameter. One end was slightly larger (61mm) for 200mm of the pole’s length, this was to be where the base was attached.

The Base

This was made from a pallet ‘stretcher’ 60mm(2³/₈”)x 45mm(1³/₄”) cut in half resulting in a length of 525mm (20⁵/₈”) for each one. I wanted the base to have ‘feet’ so that the entire length of the wood wasn’t touching the floor. I therefore used the circular saw to cut away 10mm from the bottom of each length leaving the last 64mm(2¹/₂") at each end uncut.

To create the ‘X’ shape for the base the two pieces were assembled using a halving joint at the mid-point of each piece. 

I used a 125mm (5”) long piece of M15 threaded rod to join the two pieces together. It was my intention to use the threaded rod to attach the base to the pole. Although the pitch of the thread on the rod was quite fine I believed it would be good enough to anchor itself into the wooden pole.

I needed to ‘help’ the rod make its path into the drilled hole in the pole and I did this using a tip my father showed me many years ago. By cutting one or more slots in the one end of the rod one effectively creates a crude tap, the slots make a cutting edge for forming the thread. Dad showed me this as a means of cleaning the threaded holes for spark plugs in a motorcycle cylinder head – he used an old spark plug as the ‘tap’.

Prior to drilling the through hole in the base, a 25mm diameter wood bit was used to make the rebate for the nut.

I used a chisel to cut this to the hexagonal shape for the nut.

This was to ensure there was a clearance between the nut and the floor.

Attaching the Pole

Once the hole had been drilled, I made the thread in the pole (pictured above). I then used a router to create a recess in the pole’s bottom face as clearance for the M15 nut and washer. This done, the pole was screwed to the base. 

Part Two also includes a film of the whole process.

If you've enjoyed this article and found it useful please feel free to share it or to comment and/or make observations.
All the very best and until next time,

Andy 

© Andy Colley 2015

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Some Useful Links for Sizing

In-House Patterns - Fitting Bust, Waist & Hip Position

Craft Yarn Council - Standard Sizing Men, Women and Children
Craft Yarn Council - Women's Size Charts
Long Tall Sally - International Measurements for Tall Women