Spring is the time when birds begin to look for good nesting sites. They may try many possibilities and even actually start the makings of a nest before they actually make their final choice. You can help them and attract many of these birds
to your garden by providing them with a good choice of homes. In the last blog we looked at one design to attract a specific group. Now I'm going to proffer this design to attract some others. Over the decades the natural
nesting sites, cracks in old buildings and garden walls and shakes in
ancient trees, have become rarer. Our aim is also to create something
which would blend into the background to attract these often shy birds.
As a rule, in Europe these boxes are expected to attract mainly robins, wrens and wagtails. In
the USA there are over 50 species who prefer to use an open-fronted
cavity nest. However, wherever you live you should research the individual habits and volumes needed for any specific bird. Martins, for example, prefer to nest in colonies so you should provide either 5 or 6 boxes placed closely together or one large box with separate nesting chambers. Blackbirds may also use this type of box but would need it to be enlarged by around 50%.
The materials and construction are the same as for our previous box but I will repeat them here in case you have not read the post. If you have, then please continue down the page until you come to the section on the positioning of the front planks.
Materials
The
box is based on the same design as my Apple House but is formed around a
larger 140 mm - 5½" pallet block. You will need 1 or 2, 100 mm - 4"
wide pallet wood planks and the wood strips from a fruit crate or orange
box. We decorated it with water-based acrylic varnish and tinted it
with earth and mineral pigments. For information on mixing these: http://thegreenlever.blogspot.fr/2012/02/using-natural-earth-and-mineral.html
Construction
For
the four sides, mark out the first length, which corresponds to the
length of the block plus plank thickness. Cut four sides to this length.
Pre-nail
the planks, if the wood splits at this juncture, then drill a pilot
hole at a slightly smaller diameter than the nail shank and then nail.
Position and nail front.
Cut base to make a platform suitable for nest building, 100 mm x 100 mm - 4" x 4" and mitred at 45°.
Mark the position of the shelf from the inside.
Drill pilot hole and screw the shelf in position.
Trim the edges.
You now have something which looks like this.
Select wood for back of box and trace round the box as a guide for drilling pilot holes for nailing the back and screwing in the shelf.
Nail back wall and screw shelf into place.
Trim
Drill pilot holes for wall mounting box at bottom...
...and top.
Drill a drainage hole. This is very important with an open-fronted design.
Cut fruit crate wood to length to make shingles. Due to the open aspect, these should project well over the front of the box to protect it from rain, sun and to give more privacy.
To finish, we use earth and mineral paints and acrylic water-based varnish...
...with a design which mimicked the golden hearted ivy growing on the wall where we were going to site it. We made another to fit snugly under the eaves of the pallet wood hen house.
Now, if you'd like to, sit back and enjoy he film.
Thanks for dropping by and please
feel free to share this article, comment, ask questions and if you'd
like to be assured of getting the next post, then sign up to follow this
blog.
It's Spring and the birds are still out looking for nest sites, which over the past decades have dwindled. You can help them and attract them to your garden by providing them with a suitable desirable residence. The example below is a simple design, requiring a minimum of tools and in particular to obviate the need for a hole saw or large bit.
Natural nesting sites do not come with standard size front doors but for the above 'hole-in-the-front' design, there is a general rule of thumb, with some examples, given below. It is interesting that of the two bird boxes we gave as presents last year, one had an exact 25 mm round hole and the blue tits spent a couple of days enlarging the opening before they used it. Whilst the other box, at a location, some 10 miles away from the former was of the above design and was used without problem. However, making the box of pine means it is easy to modify with a beak and why shouldn't birds, like most of us, enjoy personalising their own home.
This one has a round entrance but is harder to make than the above design as it requires a large boring bit. Both the designs were recently given as Birthday presents and I'm happy to say all have tenants!
25 mm - 1" for blue, coal and marsh tits and chickadees.
28 mm - 1 1/8" for great tits, tree sparrows and pied flycatchers
32 mm - 1¼" house sparrows, tree swallows and nuthatches
45 mm - 1¾" starlings
150 mm x 150 mm - 6" x 6" for the barn owl box I am in the process of making
Materials
The box is based on the same design as my Apple House but is formed around a larger 140 mm - 5½" pallet block. You will need 1 or 2, 100 mm - 4" wide pallet wood planks and the wood strips from a fruit crate or orange box. We decorated it with water-based acrylic varnish and tinted it with earth and mineral pigments. For information on mixing these: http://thegreenlever.blogspot.fr/2012/02/using-natural-earth-and-mineral.html
Construction
For the four sides, mark out the first length, which corresponds to the length of the block plus plank thickness. Cut four sides to this length.
Pre-nail the planks, if the wood splits at this juncture, then drill a pilot hole at a slightly smaller diameter than the nail shank and then nail.
Cut base to make a platform suitable for nest building, 100 mm x 100 mm - 4" x 4" and mitred at 45°.
Position and nail front.
Put each plank in place and from the back draw the outline of the frame and use that as a guide for the pilot holes to avoid splitting the wood.
Trim the edges.
With the shelf in place, mark its position from the inside. This will enable the correct location for the retaining screw. Drill and screw in place.
Select planks for the rear of the box. It is a good idea to screw these into place in case you need to clean out the box after use.
The centre piece is put on first so that the correct position for the screw holding the shelf from the back can be easily located.
Mark out the outline of the box onto the remaining planks. Drill screw holes.
Screw to the back. Trim the top with a generous border. This allows for mounting holes for screws and nails.
Cut lengths of fruitcrate wood to make shingles for the roof. Attach to roof with staples or panel pins.
You can finish with a coat of linseed/hemp oil or acrylic water-based varnish.
To create an illusion of the box being a natural nesting site, we decorated ours with the same climbing ivy as was growing in the place we intended positioning our box.
Now if you'd like to, sit back and watch the film.
Next post will be a design for an open-fronted box, suitable for Robins, Wrens, Eastern Bluebirds, Northern Flickers, and Purple Martins.
Thanks for dropping by and please
feel free to share this article, comment, ask questions and if you'd
like to be assured of getting the next post, then sign up to follow this
blog.
Fun to make and fascinating to watch,
these insect hotels can make all the difference to the successful
pollination of your fruit and vegetables and also to the control of
pests by insect predators.
Open for Business - Build Your Own Green Hotel
Here's our deluxe version and in the next post I will be featuring our designs for 'Eco Lodges' smaller hanging and nestling accommodation you can place around the garden or orchard. They also make great presents, not only for Christmas but also in this larger form an ideal Wedding Gift.
Here is a close up of what an occupied room looks like - in this case the 'door' is closed with clay but some creatures like the leaf cutter bee.. yes it's all in the name!
Larger arthropods we find in our garden and have photographed, can overwinter in the larger stems and or bark and leaf infill.
Some of these like the larvae of the Stag Beetle are becoming ever more rare, so providing them with a permanent shelter is a great idea. The larger stems will also be able to accommodate the beautiful large European Black solitary bee, again another species, who is threatened by extinction.
This is a great project to do with kids as there is a massive selection of differing natural materials to be sought from within the garden or further afield in woods and hedgerows. The end result can be quite artistic the only limit is your imagination. Children also enjoy seeing who is using the Hotel and can observe the essential role insects play in nature, for pollination and pest control.
Some of the materials we found for the Hotel, dried teazle heads, fir cones, dry branches, various dry flower and vegetable stems, dry bamboo canes and leaves, moss and lichens and of course pallet blocks.
Making the Hotel Frame
The structure is a rectangular frame with shelves within surmounted with a triangular apex. It is simply nailed together, including the rear wall of tongue and groove planking, which ensures that the hotel remains square and rigid.
I selected 100mm (4") wide untreated pallet wood planks.
The bottom, top and shelves were cut 50cm long. The two vertical sides were cut 50 cm plus twice the plank thickness.
The vertical sides are nailed into the end-grain of the top and bottom pieces and to ensure that the nails do not split the wood this close to the edge, I drilled pilot holes for them.
I used a 2mm drill for the holes, the nails are 2.4mm in diameter.
When nailing the sides I made sure that the rear edges of the planks were level with each other.......
.......and the corners remain square.
I used pallet blocks (pre-drilled for use in the Hotel in this image) to set the distance between each shelf. I found it easier to drive the nails into the end grain of the shelf if I once again drilled pilot holes at the appropriate positions in the vertical side walls.
If you want to put a vertical divider in an area then cut it to length and nail it to the shelf before the shelf is nailed in place. the free end of this divider may then be nailed to the top plank. You can see this in the image at the start of this post.
The triangular section at the top of the structure has a 90° angle at its apex. I initially had cut a 45° angle where it met the edge of the vertical side but I thought this was unnecessarily difficult so I just cut a square edge as illustrated. I found there was no structural difference in doing this and as the wire mesh on the front face was held in place with quarter-round beading this joint was hidden from view.
I had marked a centre line in the top of the rectangle and used a try-square from this line to determine the lengths for the two angled pieces.
Once again, pilot holes for the nails were drilled. Notice that the drill is vertical to the face of the sloping piece of wood.
When the Hotel is filled with the 'bedding materials', the exposed portions of nails are hidden from view.
The rear wall can now be cut to size and nailed in place. I used tongue & groove panelling 10mm thick. I marked the length and shape of the piece and nailed each one in place before marking and cutting the next one. Pilot holes were drilled and the back wall was nailed to each shelf as well as the rectangular frame and the triangular top.
This, ensured the whole structure was rigid and the, potentially, weak points (where nails were entering the end grain or going in at an angle) were reinforced.
And this is how it looks.
Fitting out your hotel rooms
Now comes the fun bit, filling the Hotel with suitable nesting materials. I used the pallet block as a guide for cutting twigs and branches to length. The 'compartments' between the pallet blocks were filled with an assortment of natural materials as well as these cut stems.
I cleared the pith out of some stems (like the elderberry) with a stiff piece of wire. Some stems were left with the pith as certain insects eat the pith and/or use it to create doors to seal the rooms.
For the twigs, branches, and pallet blocks I drilled holes of between 4mm and 10mm diameter.
Before everything was put in place, straw was packed along the whole back wall of the hotel to provide insulation and extra bedding.
All of this was done with the Hotel laying flat on its back.
Once filled, chicken wire was cut to size and secured with quarter round beading nailed to the front edges of the structure. I used 30mm long panel pins to do this.
A nail punch was used to drive the panel pins' heads flush with the wood surface.
Siting your Hotel
Your Hotel once completed should be sited in a sheltered location and preferably in a South Easterly to South Westerly facing direction. This house is meant to be placed at ground level or hung on a wall. In the next blog I will show how to make the smaller Eco Lodges, motels, chalets and gîteswe designed for placing around the garden, on a balcony and/or hanging in trees.
Beware once made, these insect hotels make addictive watching, people have been known to spend hours observing insects coming in and out of their hotels! Have fun and now, if you'd like to, sit back and watch the film.
For a smaller insect hotel project see our blog post on The Bee Cosy for cosy bees!
Thanks for dropping by and please
feel free to share this article, comment, ask questions and if you'd
like to be assured of getting the next post, then sign up to follow this
blog.
The Bee Cosy for cosy bees is an elegant green gift for you to make using 99% recuperated materials...read more
Home-made Insect Hotels from Repurposed Materials The Gite & The Chalet
Made from repurposed materials, untreated pallet wood, fruit crate wood
and general garden debris. To decorate them, we use natural...read more
An Insect Hotel as a Utility Box Cover - Design & Construction
The electricity company brought power to the property but sited the
ubiquitous supply box right in front of the house. Not surprisingly, she
is unhappy...read more
An Insect Hotel as a Utility Box Cover - Roofing & Furnishing
The roof was constructed in a similar fashion to that of a house. The
pitch was 45°. The gable ends supported the ridge purlins/laths...read more
An Insect Hotel as a Utility Box Cover - Installing
Having made the insect hotel, its roof and metal posts in 'kit' form as
it were,it was time to transport it and put it in place...read more
As a rule, in Europe these boxes are expected to attract mainly robins, wrens and wagtails. In
the USA there are over 50 species who prefer to use an open-fronted
cavity nest. However, wherever you live you should research the individual habits and volumes needed for any specific bird. Martins, for example, prefer to nest in colonies so you should provide either 5 or 6 boxes placed closely together or one large box with separate nesting chambers. Blackbirds may also use this type of box but would need it to be enlarged by around 50%.
