It's Spring and the birds are still out looking for nest sites, which over the past decades have dwindled. You can help them and attract them to your garden by providing them with a suitable desirable residence. The example below is a simple design, requiring a minimum of tools and in particular to obviate the need for a hole saw or large bit.
Natural nesting sites do not come with standard size front doors but for the above 'hole-in-the-front' design, there is a general rule of thumb, with some examples, given below. It is interesting that of the two bird boxes we gave as presents last year, one had an exact 25 mm round hole and the blue tits spent a couple of days enlarging the opening before they used it. Whilst the other box, at a location, some 10 miles away from the former was of the above design and was used without problem. However, making the box of pine means it is easy to modify with a beak and why shouldn't birds, like most of us, enjoy personalising their own home.
This one has a round entrance but is harder to make than the above design as it requires a large boring bit. Both the designs were recently given as Birthday presents and I'm happy to say all have tenants!
This one has a round entrance but is harder to make than the above design as it requires a large boring bit. Both the designs were recently given as Birthday presents and I'm happy to say all have tenants!
25 mm - 1" for blue, coal and marsh tits and chickadees.
28 mm - 1 1/8" for great tits, tree sparrows and pied flycatchers
32 mm - 1¼" house sparrows, tree swallows and nuthatches
45 mm - 1¾" starlings
150 mm x 150 mm - 6" x 6" for the barn owl box I am in the process of making
Materials
The box is based on the same design as my Apple House but is formed around a larger 140 mm - 5½" pallet block. You will need 1 or 2, 100 mm - 4" wide pallet wood planks and the wood strips from a fruit crate or orange box. We decorated it with water-based acrylic varnish and tinted it with earth and mineral pigments. For information on mixing these: http://thegreenlever.blogspot.fr/2012/02/using-natural-earth-and-mineral.html
Construction
For the four sides, mark out the first length, which corresponds to the length of the block plus plank thickness. Cut four sides to this length.
Pre-nail the planks, if the wood splits at this juncture, then drill a pilot hole at a slightly smaller diameter than the nail shank and then nail.
Cut base to make a platform suitable for nest building, 100 mm x 100 mm - 4" x 4" and mitred at 45°.
Position and nail front.
Put each plank in place and from the back draw the outline of the frame and use that as a guide for the pilot holes to avoid splitting the wood.
Trim the edges.
With the shelf in place, mark its position from the inside. This will enable the correct location for the retaining screw. Drill and screw in place.
Select planks for the rear of the box. It is a good idea to screw these into place in case you need to clean out the box after use.
The centre piece is put on first so that the correct position for the screw holding the shelf from the back can be easily located.
Mark out the outline of the box onto the remaining planks.
Drill screw holes.
Screw to the back. Trim the top with a generous border. This allows for mounting holes for screws and nails.
Cut lengths of fruitcrate wood to make shingles for the roof. Attach to roof with staples or panel pins.
You can finish with a coat of linseed/hemp oil or acrylic water-based varnish.
To create an illusion of the box being a natural nesting site, we decorated ours with the same climbing ivy as was growing in the place we intended positioning our box.
Now if you'd like to, sit back and watch the film.
Next post will be a design for an open-fronted box, suitable for Robins, Wrens, Eastern Bluebirds, Northern Flickers, and Purple Martins.
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All the best, Andy
© Andy Colley 2014
All the best, Andy
© Andy Colley 2014
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