tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-31998504347205337962024-03-22T03:27:55.263+01:00The Green Lever - Using minimal resources for maximum quality of lifeMoving from a career in the city to a happier and healthier sustainable life in the countryside. Using recycled materials. Getting off the Grid - the first steps. Evaluation of different alternative energies illustrated by the people who use them. DIY renovations using ecological methods and materials.The Green Leverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01335293795269368752noreply@blogger.comBlogger108125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3199850434720533796.post-74832431068286245152022-01-05T14:57:00.003+01:002024-02-17T11:47:54.677+01:00 THE GREEN LEVER - CONTENTS PAGE<div style="text-align: justify;">
Welcome to the Green Lever, a site about saving resources and reusing materials. The projects covered are those we use in our daily lives and the 'alternative' energy articles are real case studies from our own house or those of friends. You can find a full introduction to this blog <b><a href="http://thegreenlever.blogspot.fr/2011/10/why-green-lever.html#.VBNma9ZDt0w">here</a></b><br />
<br />Please note: I love comments but spam is now out of control and nothing is being done about it, so I am forced to hold all comments for 'moderation' but genuine comments will be published and answered asap. Thanks, Andy<br /><br />
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<b><span style="color: #274e13; font-size: x-large;">LATEST ARTICLE</span> </b><b><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></b></h2><h3 class="post-title entry-title">Pedal-Powered Spin Dryer</h3><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjEALXTjGkufhaX2FeDSQHmMCiHPbNoFnR7mo2GMSbbV4zKkeAZNkyYwAZX8IsrGddSKRqP0UQEBuv7_78-rtqYLcrGQwmMLTzWYekYMX3wuMHYxIOPXqZeMvxBqKMdBrTS4OyeDLLRKQ-zyotoEql7o-NdCPZc3GKL9xlBt5zlc0CZ_4fESXTkdxbX=s1920" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1920" height="402" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjEALXTjGkufhaX2FeDSQHmMCiHPbNoFnR7mo2GMSbbV4zKkeAZNkyYwAZX8IsrGddSKRqP0UQEBuv7_78-rtqYLcrGQwmMLTzWYekYMX3wuMHYxIOPXqZeMvxBqKMdBrTS4OyeDLLRKQ-zyotoEql7o-NdCPZc3GKL9xlBt5zlc0CZ_4fESXTkdxbX=w640-h360" width="715" /></a></div><br /><p style="text-align: justify;"><br /></p><h2 style="text-align: left;"></h2><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><p style="text-align: justify;"><span face="Verdana, Geneva, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; font-size: 15.84px; text-align: start;">Detailed step-by-step - How to make a viable spin dryer from a discarded washing machine drum, an abandoned bicycle and a pallet. After over a decade of doing our laundry with a home-made bicycle washing machine, we finally decided we needed the spin function too. With our 'new' spin dryer we can achieve a spin cycle of between 320 and 400 rpm which gives us 'non-drip' laundry, which we could never achieve with our bicycle washing machine...<b><a href="https://thegreenlever.blogspot.com/2022/01/pedal-powered-spin-dryer-home-made.html" target="_blank">read more</a></b></span></p></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><h2 style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>LATEST FILM </b></span></h2><p style="text-align: center;"><b></b></p></div><div style="text-align: center;"><iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/vKj1L8uiW1g" title="YouTube video player" width="560"></iframe></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
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The Green Leverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01335293795269368752noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3199850434720533796.post-34901952235494342922022-01-05T13:31:00.001+01:002022-02-12T11:58:23.771+01:00Pedal Powered Spin Dryer Home-made<p>Detailed step-by-step - How to make a viable spin dryer from a discarded washing machine drum, an abandoned bicycle and a pallet. After over a decade of doing our laundry with a home-made bicycle washing machine, we finally decided we needed the spin function too. With our 'new' spin dryer we can achieve a spin cycle of between 320 and 400 rpm which gives us 'non-drip' laundry, which we could never achieve with our bicycle washing machine.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpltCLI5JB2u16iSC0Jjq01TAc3rcNKjSWjDXk_YDia4K07_eQ2yCoTSL6b27qOaUFRSXaPiajL0Lv9k7dQFWMoY2OmBNYt08wbFJG_k0aWRGlzJtAz6rmAzqaVJSuGLCN2Aoh2HU2r8E/s1920/Spin+cycle.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="make a pedal powered spin dryer" border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1920" height="402" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpltCLI5JB2u16iSC0Jjq01TAc3rcNKjSWjDXk_YDia4K07_eQ2yCoTSL6b27qOaUFRSXaPiajL0Lv9k7dQFWMoY2OmBNYt08wbFJG_k0aWRGlzJtAz6rmAzqaVJSuGLCN2Aoh2HU2r8E/w640-h360/Spin+cycle.JPG" title="Spin cycle - bicycle powered spin dryer" width="715" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p>At the end of the washing cycle, the water is drained out of the machine and to ensure that the water drains more freely, the drum is continually turned. As one pedals at low speed, you can feel the washing dropping down to the bottom of the drum, as you want it to do when washing. At slightly elevated pedaling speeds, the 'jerky' motion of the falling wet washing, ceases as the washing starts to stick to the drum wall due to the centripetal/centrifugal force.</p><p><br /></p><h2 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">Important - Units of Measurement</span></h2><p>This is not a one-size-fits-all project, you have to reference your actual machine and all its component sizes (drain hose diameter, screw threads, etc.,) to the build. My machine being French, means all the threaded components are metric and I have also noted that some of the threaded bar/rod, sold in the US, for example, is now also in metric. So rather than my directly translating these dimensions into Imperial, which would not be appropriate, just substitute your machine's fastener sizes.</p><p><br /></p><h2 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">The Main Components</span></h2><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLo9eyHgsa3CYw2K4UmpknntKR91-u0ZkzEDP4Q3reCrdEbufeI-c7w0ISMMa6LFN-hRVMAYvHCJ2iD859ztE7Y_1fxtHWKOPXgTmAnZn9zAv_vMOl3a_gD_uTrAlWPZzTROHLhe3WptA/s1224/Bike.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="make bicycle spin dryer" border="0" data-original-height="808" data-original-width="1224" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLo9eyHgsa3CYw2K4UmpknntKR91-u0ZkzEDP4Q3reCrdEbufeI-c7w0ISMMa6LFN-hRVMAYvHCJ2iD859ztE7Y_1fxtHWKOPXgTmAnZn9zAv_vMOl3a_gD_uTrAlWPZzTROHLhe3WptA/w320-h211/Bike.png" title="The bicycle for the spin dryer" width="320" /></a></span></b></div><b><span style="font-size: medium;">The Bicycle</span></b>: These wonderful machines are very often discarded long before their useful life has ceased, so can be bought, very cheaply, from secondhand shops, yard sales and many other sources. Alternatively, one can just intercept them before they get thrown into the dumpster. In my case, items like these are 'fly-tipped' behind our village bottle-bank and it is always worth my checking occasionally to see if any have been left there. The one I'm using for this project is from this latter source and is a well-used Rolland (now Jacquot) of Versailles. The major components of this i.e. frame, crankset and rear wheel hub were still O.K. for my needs.<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIzeGRLfaWkh5z9-xQsaojp9WmwFYchNPGMoWR01OIYvnY-NmDx09zMnNWQjoX5KmGsNjPMvhh3Z196i7SRWB-Vk6q0YQvKal9jETUB6KChn9hKeV__ZmOFhrsZApe5NtJzrQ-4foLyBU/s1920/Marinette.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="DIY pedal powered spin dryer" border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1920" height="402" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIzeGRLfaWkh5z9-xQsaojp9WmwFYchNPGMoWR01OIYvnY-NmDx09zMnNWQjoX5KmGsNjPMvhh3Z196i7SRWB-Vk6q0YQvKal9jETUB6KChn9hKeV__ZmOFhrsZApe5NtJzrQ-4foLyBU/w640-h360/Marinette.png" title="The drum" width="715" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">The Washing Machine Drum</span></b>: An old top-loading model that was badly corroded around the base was given to me by a friend. The drum and drum housing, including the bearings were still serviceable. </p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">The Pallet</span></b>: A non-standard sized pallet long enough to fit the bicycle and the supported drum was selected. For the layout of my components the pallet size was: 135cm x 80cm (53" x 32").</p><p><br /></p><h2 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">Extra Materials</span></h2><p><b>Stands</b> - I used the metal ones I had created for a previous pedal-powered washing machine but at the end I'll post a link on how I make wooden ones from untreated pallet wood.</p><p><b>Pallet Wood Planks</b> Various sizes and thicknesses</p><p><b>Nuts, Bolts and Washers</b> to fit:</p><p><b>Threaded bar</b> - with regard to sizes as detailed above, this will need to correspond to the existing threads on the washing machine.</p><p><b>Additional Bicycle Chain</b> - approximately 10" (250mm)</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEbhTBuoAkkCvk9cCmZmmgamq73kmCStk3aKiUKJIxB2stNbilYiUkmfvI_vE6vLpiWXHq3XKPHORh9D_DpupZ85cW_M7HBKupnUG_VuCwmeN_h9Dh9Ef4Tw8EkxW-Q3ZddLtZwWos8w4/s2048/Fluffy+Towels.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Make a pedal powered spin dryer" border="0" data-original-height="1365" data-original-width="2048" height="477" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEbhTBuoAkkCvk9cCmZmmgamq73kmCStk3aKiUKJIxB2stNbilYiUkmfvI_vE6vLpiWXHq3XKPHORh9D_DpupZ85cW_M7HBKupnUG_VuCwmeN_h9Dh9Ef4Tw8EkxW-Q3ZddLtZwWos8w4/w640-h426/Fluffy+Towels.JPG" title="Fluffy towels we never had with the bicycle washer" width="715" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><h2 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">Tools</span></h2><p>All of this build can be achieved with hand tools but if you have them and the power to run them, then obviously it will be quicker if you use power tools for some of the build:</p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>taps and dies</li><li>spanners</li><li>screwdriver</li><li>wood saw</li><li>hacksaw</li><li>vice</li><li>angle grinder</li><li>electric drill</li><li>lathe (optional)</li><li>tape measure</li></ul><p></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><b><br /></b></span></p><h2 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>The Design</b></span></h2><p>The criteria for making a successful spin-dryer was to be able to increase the drum rotation speed such that the wet contents of the drum would be forced against the drum wall by centrifugal/centripetal force and the water would pass through the perforated drum wall. The faster the spin speed the greater the force and hence the more water should be expressed out of the laundry. In addition, the duration of spin would also affect the water removal.</p><p>The position of the drum in relation to the bicycle was also an important consideration: whether the drum is in front of the bicycle or behind makes a difference to the overall pallet size and chain length. I had already found that the smallest footprint would be achieved with the drum in front of the pedals rather than behind.</p><div style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5usIAYloSP2tRmU42w6EVjwYuRK69cDev3LLtRruVlxyMJG-G-392IotVq2gZhUOzBNvsKeYa0VTV0GAGdvwdnwnW3vgt-7-_tKsMRTy00hEOX8Z47oQDQoto-PFSrPpa7Lz6tLQ7OMk/s2048/IMG_3593crop.JPG" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1398" data-original-width="2048" height="488" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5usIAYloSP2tRmU42w6EVjwYuRK69cDev3LLtRruVlxyMJG-G-392IotVq2gZhUOzBNvsKeYa0VTV0GAGdvwdnwnW3vgt-7-_tKsMRTy00hEOX8Z47oQDQoto-PFSrPpa7Lz6tLQ7OMk/w640-h436/IMG_3593crop.JPG" width="715" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p>The washing machine had a direct drive from the crankset to a chainwheel attached to the drum shaft. They were the same size and thus had a 1:1 gear ratio. For the new project I used the smallest gear from the rear wheel gear cluster on the drum shaft which would raise the ratio to 1:3.2. Initially I had thought of having the same 'fixed wheel' arrangement between bicycle and drum as on the washing machine (see above) but after a discussion with some undergrad students on design choices for the spin-dryer I decided to see if it were possible to use a freewheel hub instead.</p><p><br /></p><h2 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>The Build - The Gearing Cluster</b></span></h2><p>As I mentioned earlier, the exterior housing of the washing machine was not in a sound state, so I removed the drum/pulley wheel assembly from it.</p><p>The first part of the build was to obtain the rear wheel cluster and hub from the bicycle. I clamped the wheel by its spindle in the vice and removed the spokes using a cutting disc in the angle grinder. The spokes from the wheel hub on the other side to the gear cluster were the first to be removed, allowing easier access for the cutting disc to those fixed nearest the cluster. Once all removed the last remaining portions of the spokes could be ground out from the rear of the hub.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht3tBpf6RooovUlwRzzxkGQ4Zh8BcxRVtZ_L3NWgk_r4xYpHKzNzTzrnT8On-HdyUlipIQT2Ngw_lgsmqVnat2diP0llEVYGOxkS66ti1HeBtL2z3c7AzMkB3JXOSROV81g_fA-3-f4HU/s2048/Composite+gear+cluster.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Pedal powered spin dryer from scrap" border="0" data-original-height="1332" data-original-width="2048" height="465" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht3tBpf6RooovUlwRzzxkGQ4Zh8BcxRVtZ_L3NWgk_r4xYpHKzNzTzrnT8On-HdyUlipIQT2Ngw_lgsmqVnat2diP0llEVYGOxkS66ti1HeBtL2z3c7AzMkB3JXOSROV81g_fA-3-f4HU/w640-h416/Composite+gear+cluster.JPG" title="Removing the bearing and housing - pedal powered spin dryer" width="715" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p>I then needed the bearing and housing removed
from the remainder of the rear wheel spindle housing. Once again using the cutting disc I removed the other end of the spindle housing which then enabled me to clamp it in the vice and cut the bearing and its housing from the rest with a hacksaw.</p><p>The bearing and housing fitted into the gear cluster and a 10mm threaded bar was used instead of the wheel spindle. Matching nuts either side of the cluster held the cluster securely in place.</p><p>The problem I was now faced with was, for the bicycle/drum configuration I had opted for, the hub would have to fit into the drum shaft with the smallest gear of the cluster nearest to the drum. This would still let me pedal in the conventional, cycling direction to turn the drum. The drum shaft was threaded at the end to accommodate an 8mm screw so I needed to reduce the threaded spindle from 10mm to 8mm and cut a new thread to fit.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQqzoACDs8sUEQzN_V4qI1SZyLXfHp8hQrljNtIBVO9ZwQhD2LKn2SQTPGSKjJb4_oJ0w297bp1nm7NgJaSh0hdEYMuE3IFFIuPYzVCVHtzHCnEOwFMflZGHZpIrp0E-dn1AwHC61Fbwc/s2048/Composite+gear+cluster2.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1471" data-original-width="2048" height="514" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQqzoACDs8sUEQzN_V4qI1SZyLXfHp8hQrljNtIBVO9ZwQhD2LKn2SQTPGSKjJb4_oJ0w297bp1nm7NgJaSh0hdEYMuE3IFFIuPYzVCVHtzHCnEOwFMflZGHZpIrp0E-dn1AwHC61Fbwc/w640-h460/Composite+gear+cluster2.JPG" width="715" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p>I held the free end of the 10mm shaft in the chuck of my wood-turning lathe and reduced the shaft diameter using the angle grinder whilst the lathe was in motion. I had an 8mm washer as a go/no go gauge, checking the fit frequently to ensure I did not remove too much from the spindle diameter. Once I got my gauge washer to fit down the ground portion, I clamped the 10mm end of the shaft between two pieces of wood in the vice (to prevent damage to the thread), filed a chamfer on the free end of the 8mm section and cut the thread with an 8mm die.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimQ7_3_1fpVmm8qyBlPp90_mEUmfMv790RLnFhS25lktJMAwycVzM1DWP6BRCwuxrYrHOEoj9qV17jwSSpyIJbmGuyma0yvHl_eElwiUiFl9leCiKbjci31a-H7XdyWX0leY9gQtwkw-I/s1290/gear+cluster+3.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="803" data-original-width="1290" height="445" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimQ7_3_1fpVmm8qyBlPp90_mEUmfMv790RLnFhS25lktJMAwycVzM1DWP6BRCwuxrYrHOEoj9qV17jwSSpyIJbmGuyma0yvHl_eElwiUiFl9leCiKbjci31a-H7XdyWX0leY9gQtwkw-I/w640-h398/gear+cluster+3.png" width="715" /></a></div>The newly-made shaft could then be screwed into the drum shaft and the gear cluster secured to the 10mm portion of this shaft. A visual check was made to ensure the gear cluster was running concentrically with the drum shaft<p></p><p><br /><span style="font-size: large;"></span></p><h2><span style="font-size: large;">The Build - Attaching the Bicycle</span></h2><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim1j40wI0-D0GbLxMy2oa-7uGhBn9PJxOeD8gUNnAwsV-eGQxRMKYtGvD6snuRlyLOff40aidGYNyHQPrZHXuVREunJj-vHVDjF1YC7aRk8-mCKv7LmDIrTnoDfrST9gTt5MRvuPgI7UU/s2048/IMG_2009.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1365" data-original-width="2048" height="477" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim1j40wI0-D0GbLxMy2oa-7uGhBn9PJxOeD8gUNnAwsV-eGQxRMKYtGvD6snuRlyLOff40aidGYNyHQPrZHXuVREunJj-vHVDjF1YC7aRk8-mCKv7LmDIrTnoDfrST9gTt5MRvuPgI7UU/w640-h426/IMG_2009.JPG" width="715" /></a></div><br />It was now time to attach the bicycle and the drum onto the pallet. The bicycle was supported on two axle stands that I had made for our original; pedal-powered washing machine. These were of welded construction. If I had not had these available, I would have made new ones using pallet wood:- see how to make these under Related Articles. The metal supports were fixed to the pallet using wood screws.<div><br /><p></p><h2 style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: large;">The Build - Attaching the Drum</span></h2><p style="text-align: justify;">The drum mounting was more difficult. As was explained at the beginning of this post, the housing of the machine was very badly corroded and could not be used. Thus I had to make wooden supports that could in turn be fixed to the pallet. The biggest problem with this was that there was no common datum on the bottom of the drum housing, in effect the drum if placed onto a flat level surface could not stand upright. In order to obtain a level across the three mounting points, I turned the drum over onto its lid, ensuring that the lid opening catch was not touching the workbench surface. The height difference between the mounting points could then be determined and wooden planks and spacers cut to the appropriate length and thickness and attached, using the original mounting bolts and nuts (recuperated). These supports
were in turn screwed to the 'carrier' planks which were parallel to the drum axis, so as to fit across the pallet, next to the bicycle. These two 'carrier' planks were slotted, two slots per plank, the slots coincided with the approximate centre line of planks on the main pallet and with four holes drilled therein. Securing bolts and washers secured the drum to the pallet. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju_59_DJh8ue2h6QOw632Vae7dj8JoLXV__MAKRl_ux2ji1XSFji86xbPEOlTl8jYRKc9YbjB1uNZe-wz6BkRDKA4gBfjCZGdCMzDCOYjcT5oXvPv2pP345pMxWAIufwlHR94jQcbr-v0/s2048/IMG_2137.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1365" data-original-width="2048" height="477" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju_59_DJh8ue2h6QOw632Vae7dj8JoLXV__MAKRl_ux2ji1XSFji86xbPEOlTl8jYRKc9YbjB1uNZe-wz6BkRDKA4gBfjCZGdCMzDCOYjcT5oXvPv2pP345pMxWAIufwlHR94jQcbr-v0/w640-h426/IMG_2137.JPG" width="715" /></a></div><br /><p style="text-align: justify;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: justify;">Drainage of water from the drum was as with the pedal washing machine via gravity. I had established that once the redundant pump assembly had been removed from the bottom of the drum, a conventional vacuum cleaner hose would fit neatly over the exit port where the pump had been attached. </p><p style="text-align: justify;">At this stage of the construction, I was still unsure as to how much additional bracing would be needed in order to hold the drum steady at the elevated speeds of spinning. As a provisional measure, I took advantage of four moulded stubs integral to the drum housing, these originally held the shock- absorbers. Down the centre of each stub I drilled a hole and then tapped it to 6mm. I then attached planks which spanned the pairs of stubs on each side of the drum housing using 6mm bolts. </p><p style="text-align: justify;">Now the drum was fixed to the pallet, I could extend and attach the chain from the bicycle to the smallest gear of the cluster on the drum shaft. It is possible to ensure the chain is running straight between the two sets of gears simply by looking along the faces of the two gear sprockets (driving and driven). Optimum chain tension and alignment was attained by moving the drum assembly on its slotted mounting holes prior to tightening the mounting bolts.</p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Test Run</b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;">Once the bicycle and drum were connected, a quick pedal with the drum empty established that there were no problems with alignment and chain tension. So it was then time for the acid test.</p><p style="text-align: justify;">Wet washing was transferred from the washing machine into the spin dryer and the lid closed. The starting load on the pedals was noticeably higher compared to the lower 1:1 gear ratio of the washing machine but it was not difficult to set the drum in motion. Slowly accelerating it became apparent that for what seemed a relatively slow pedal speed, water was exiting rapidly from the drain tube. Accelerating further the water flow increased and then as the contents became drier, diminished. Timing my pedaling speed I determined that the drum spin speed was about 350 rpm which could be maintained for at least a couple of minutes until the water flow was nil. Letting the drum freewheel to a halt, the contents were examined and were definitely much drier, to the extent that no further water could be extracted when it was attempted to wring it by hand.</p><p>Here's the film to see it in action:</p><p style="text-align: center;"><iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/t146CkzLtJU" title="YouTube video player" width="560"></iframe><br /></p><div><span style="text-align: justify;">After using the spin dryer for several months I think we've established that the configuration works really well but the distribution of the wet load within the drum is crucial. Uneven loading results in shaking of the whole machine and pallet and it is often the case when the wet washing comprises just a few items. With a single large item though - Sue washed our feather duvet, the spin dryer was amazing.</span></div><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Improvements</b></span></p><p style="text-align: justify;">The first thing that would improve the spin dryer will be to obtain another top loading machine and keep the drum in its original housing. This would obviate the need of making elaborate supports to hold the drum level and steady.</p><p style="text-align: justify;">Secondly I think that the drive to the drum should be direct i.e. not freewheel. This I believe will enable the 'cyclist' to rotate the drum in both directions at the start of the spin-cycle to distribute the wet contents evenly within the drum and thus prevent the need to stop spinning to even the load in the drum.</p><p style="text-align: justify;">Hope you enjoyed this project and much as we do having non-drip washing! If you read this article and found it interesting then share it with your friends on social media or suchlike. Please also feel free to ask questions and or make comments and if you found this helpful and would like to support this site you can always <a href="https://ko-fi.com/X8X01EDNU" target="_blank"><img alt="Buy Me a Coffee at ko-fi.com" border="0" height="36" src="https://az743702.vo.msecnd.net/cdn/kofi3.png?v=2" style="border: 0px; height: 36px;" /></a></p><div style="text-align: justify;">You can also find all my films <a href="https://www.youtube.com/user/Organikmechanic"><b>Youtube</b></a> and also now on <a href="https://odysee.com/$/invite/@Organikmechanic:0" target="_blank"><b>Odysee</b></a> </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Until next time and from a sunny day in Normandie,</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Cheers, Andy</div><br style="text-align: justify;" /><span style="text-align: justify;">© Andy Colley 2022</span><p></p><p></p></div>The Green Leverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01335293795269368752noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3199850434720533796.post-19690384834816175642021-04-06T14:47:00.005+02:002023-08-08T14:45:57.928+02:00Fix Electrolux Ergorapido - Red Light on - Motor Not Running<p style="text-align: justify;">The following article came about, as did the film, (posted below) because several friends and relatives presented me with non-working stick vacuum cleaners and this one had not only the worse problem but also for which there was no solution on-line. I therefore, thought it would be a good idea to share my solution as this video has become not only one of my most popular recent uploads but also has through the comment section, shown me how many people there are out there encountering similar problems. However, it has to be stressed that with this particular Electrolux Ergorapido, the cleaner had been so badly treated that the damage was serious but could still be fixed. I would just add that I am not a vacuum cleaner specialist but being an engineer am always interested in taking things apart and trying to understand why they work...or in this case...why they don't! <br /><br /></p><p justify="" p="" text-align:=""></p><h2 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">Problem and Initial Deductions </span><br /></h2><div style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizjPckY93DjZIEM9UI41oKKD-Fd1BqxLwIlTR1cv7qsfZpvlBqQFDi0A6XmwvclsQ9xWVJ82vcIkEdFKrkyjJfqwzIy2Feolwk_cmXILmoDM_eFPThFyL9bp2bjb2dDu2PJn_vsKWmHIs/s715/Stick+lights.png" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em;"><img alt="Fix Electrolux Ergorapido Red light on" border="0" data-original-height="402" data-original-width="715" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizjPckY93DjZIEM9UI41oKKD-Fd1BqxLwIlTR1cv7qsfZpvlBqQFDi0A6XmwvclsQ9xWVJ82vcIkEdFKrkyjJfqwzIy2Feolwk_cmXILmoDM_eFPThFyL9bp2bjb2dDu2PJn_vsKWmHIs/s16000/Stick+lights.png" title="Problem - Three orange lights then one red" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"></div><p></p><p></p><div><br /><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"> It had already been established that the batteries were OK because when the vacuum cleaner was turned on the three LED tell-tale lights on the Detachable Hand Unit momentarily show
'orange'. However these lights then immediately go out and the single 'red' light above them comes on. This to me is indicative of a
motor experiencing 'overload' due to some mechanical resistance. From my point of view, this is an excellent sign because it signifies that the fault is not electronic and therefore much more likely to be reparable!</p><p style="text-align: justify;"><b>NB</b> By detaching the Hand Unit from the main body of the vacuum cleaner it was obvious that the fault lay in the former not in any of the moving components of the main vacuum cleaner body, such as the sweeping brushes. It is important to establish this, as one of the other main problems with these devices which I have come across both from relatives and through comments on my YouTube channel, is with debris such as cotton thread or similar wrapped around the brushes. This will cause the rotating brushes to seize and indicate an overload in a similar way.</p><p style="text-align: justify;"> </p><p style="text-align: justify;"></p><h2 style="text-align: justify;">
</h2></div><h2 style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: large;">Tools</span></h2><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieIq9LauP9TI7FrQ5TV2q65lsPEQGqUy7-R4ymrPQdtmkUuPLgAbMcHXh3krN-35VKZR4tksjVhPGBqvauU_kH4LbIun1jmjIVhnWQEpOYFKcRDzWVUdiIjH-OjM0WB-dG_0uEfVW0b38/s715/Toolsready.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Electrolux Ergorapido repair" border="0" data-original-height="477" data-original-width="715" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieIq9LauP9TI7FrQ5TV2q65lsPEQGqUy7-R4ymrPQdtmkUuPLgAbMcHXh3krN-35VKZR4tksjVhPGBqvauU_kH4LbIun1jmjIVhnWQEpOYFKcRDzWVUdiIjH-OjM0WB-dG_0uEfVW0b38/s16000/Toolsready.JPG" title="Essential Tools" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><div style="text-align: left;">The Torx bit above has a long shank, this is so that it can access several screws which are deeply recessed. If you are using a conventional Torx screwdriver and not just a handle with Torx bits, then access to these screws should be OK because of the blade length to the handle. Included below is an image to show the bit I had to use.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSbIJD_bcVoSpLi2MBVCI4NnIZ_xtzvzUk9KMS9e2LYj3o53JQ8xXLsWuECG_up2M_iklffnhdFj9aaILZmQWGi7H1gKVTzfJeOJIuByBvfcrSDy8Ta1KX2YfHHxVPYq2lSk24CeEwbMU/s715/IMG_1803scale.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Ergorapido Fix" border="0" data-original-height="477" data-original-width="715" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSbIJD_bcVoSpLi2MBVCI4NnIZ_xtzvzUk9KMS9e2LYj3o53JQ8xXLsWuECG_up2M_iklffnhdFj9aaILZmQWGi7H1gKVTzfJeOJIuByBvfcrSDy8Ta1KX2YfHHxVPYq2lSk24CeEwbMU/s16000/IMG_1803scale.JPG" title="Torx Bit Optimum Length" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: small;"> </span><span style="font-size: small;"> </span></div></div><div style="text-align: left;"><h2><span style="font-size: large;">Taking the Hand Unit Apart</span></h2></div><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx8DHCufZC9MEXARnCVVwGmu-AgSciw7mjWpaqBiAUGc8NMTgQWPSXApeMddjvKqH2uSz7jymeelAxWDp5CeiPrSOjTJSlyHzD6Zn7OS5boEcf3ywF88pex7KGGLsS4Ru3xwjiyOBh7Qo/s1249/dust+coll+off.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Repair to Electrolux Ergorapido" border="0" data-original-height="953" data-original-width="1249" height="244" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx8DHCufZC9MEXARnCVVwGmu-AgSciw7mjWpaqBiAUGc8NMTgQWPSXApeMddjvKqH2uSz7jymeelAxWDp5CeiPrSOjTJSlyHzD6Zn7OS5boEcf3ywF88pex7KGGLsS4Ru3xwjiyOBh7Qo/w320-h244/dust+coll+off.JPG" title="Removing Dust Collector" width="320" /></a></div><br /> <p></p><p> </p><p style="text-align: justify;">The first item to remove is the Dust Collector, this is done by pressing the two release catches on the side of the unit. Put the Dust Collector to one side.<br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHl7CUiDnZhdtOq1KXFTaTjSE8gsja8ocjWwAemTsPbzA3-FDvZdkcUN7AOx-XrOR3QWAcrPKyVlw1sIiZNq1ZHdp4HAXban5VgWQDLwNlge2mjIbggIycmvcgXH_4Dle2JHxxtHQQk5Q/s1920/remove+screws.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Ergorapido Repair" border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1920" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHl7CUiDnZhdtOq1KXFTaTjSE8gsja8ocjWwAemTsPbzA3-FDvZdkcUN7AOx-XrOR3QWAcrPKyVlw1sIiZNq1ZHdp4HAXban5VgWQDLwNlge2mjIbggIycmvcgXH_4Dle2JHxxtHQQk5Q/w320-h180/remove+screws.JPG" title="Screw Locations" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"> </p><p style="text-align: justify;">Turn the Hand Unit over and locate the 5 screws holding the casing in place and remove them with the Torx.</p><p> </p><p style="text-align: justify;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHo5-TwTQq7ooNXisfWoGFNbFJtQLxP5_S5XGcHuuPCDXqqBAcUTCXrtri84-Vk6WW6y9U5aLHBx9cUF95W5Zi_G8TJ3s4ieMbYA1-eV0RX3bh3FSRWM9yx7toBqbGUVNX8lBRLkam8Yc/s954/snap+connectors.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Electrolux Rapido Fault" border="0" data-original-height="954" data-original-width="854" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHo5-TwTQq7ooNXisfWoGFNbFJtQLxP5_S5XGcHuuPCDXqqBAcUTCXrtri84-Vk6WW6y9U5aLHBx9cUF95W5Zi_G8TJ3s4ieMbYA1-eV0RX3bh3FSRWM9yx7toBqbGUVNX8lBRLkam8Yc/w179-h200/snap+connectors.png" title="Releasing Snap Connectors" width="179" /></a></div> <p></p><p style="text-align: justify;">Using the screwdriver blade in the penknife, gently prize open the Case which is held in place with snap connectors along either side.</p><p style="text-align: justify;">When you open it, there will probably be a layer of dust. You will need to clean this out before you proceed to the next stage. I used the paint brush for this.</p><p style="text-align: justify;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqZBIuiCnClY4_DyZPh6ncv_LA1Q1eAmxUGWMPkiD0xiDGvpnFH1YNdMcBipT9CjY-zbZVy2lzSBkV9IjAy2HewOvt0fGTzIpfMbOfvw9GMfv2rKRnfZQY_D3YWUywsoeTfu8goiHuMY0/s715/Housing+fan.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Red Light On Electrolux Ergorapido" border="0" data-original-height="477" data-original-width="715" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqZBIuiCnClY4_DyZPh6ncv_LA1Q1eAmxUGWMPkiD0xiDGvpnFH1YNdMcBipT9CjY-zbZVy2lzSBkV9IjAy2HewOvt0fGTzIpfMbOfvw9GMfv2rKRnfZQY_D3YWUywsoeTfu8goiHuMY0/s16000/Housing+fan.JPG" title="Removing Rubber Housing and Checking Fan" /></a></div><br />Peel back the Rubber Housing on the front of the Motor to expose the Fan in its plastic housing. <p></p><p style="text-align: justify;">I gently inserted a screw driver into the side of the fan to check that it turned - it did not! Therefore, I deduced that this was the reason why the motor was overloading.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsbb_hQS1z3XKwDs6j4Z_48_JbT3LleiB7VCbU250dcQhIOv2rjgj_fZ-h7HEx9UxAg8Z8CXK5rf54pOczcYmQBTCc6mnhUd-PnER9auq_QXx6KavYLtHGplu3vCWbT9HB2vntzEUDSWs/s715/sercit+board+screws.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Motor not running Electrolux Ergorapido" border="0" data-original-height="491" data-original-width="715" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsbb_hQS1z3XKwDs6j4Z_48_JbT3LleiB7VCbU250dcQhIOv2rjgj_fZ-h7HEx9UxAg8Z8CXK5rf54pOczcYmQBTCc6mnhUd-PnER9auq_QXx6KavYLtHGplu3vCWbT9HB2vntzEUDSWs/s16000/sercit+board+screws.JPG" title="Circuit Board Screw Location" /></a></div><br /><p style="text-align: justify;"><br />Using the screwdriver remove the two screws holding the Circuit Board in place.</p><p style="text-align: justify;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFlAglyCXVH9AYc9yyHSbYOD21LPXvdpFDI9_jKjRL3_wmHTNE-K0wl6IysVRoDRJOQU975rQKjafTU-DRI4CZmaJ5nwH0N1mY3Hvo9cgZp0an2Xku9LPffGdLSsU27OzxEqlrU3HP1Dw/s715/Fan+cleaning.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Electrolux Ergorapido Motor Not Running" border="0" data-original-height="477" data-original-width="715" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFlAglyCXVH9AYc9yyHSbYOD21LPXvdpFDI9_jKjRL3_wmHTNE-K0wl6IysVRoDRJOQU975rQKjafTU-DRI4CZmaJ5nwH0N1mY3Hvo9cgZp0an2Xku9LPffGdLSsU27OzxEqlrU3HP1Dw/s16000/Fan+cleaning.JPG" title="Removing Dust and Opening Fan Housing" /></a></div><br /><br /><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;">Remove the Rubber Housing from the Fan making sure to remember the orientation for how it fits back together.</p><p style="text-align: justify;">Using the paint brush remove as much dust as possible from the fan.</p><p style="text-align: justify;">Using the flat bladed screw driver or pen knife gently prize apart the snap connectors that hold the Fan and the Fan Housing together.</p><p style="text-align: justify;"> </p><h2 style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: large;">Diagnosis & Repair</span><br /></h2><p style="text-align: justify;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtUx_AMQ4uQKgGS-b83HnLeWETmQy6s11awiiAwxtpkGX8fNj8RaXa_0Uyv8jdUJT2jcwZY3YM2xICHOtmI0Hbi5MAKLFxlmaiNdS7tJfmMBgAmDPnzRt3BHuMrLCKRERkNFDrbFqYd6w/s715/Scoring.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Electrolux Ergorapido Breakdown" border="0" data-original-height="477" data-original-width="715" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtUx_AMQ4uQKgGS-b83HnLeWETmQy6s11awiiAwxtpkGX8fNj8RaXa_0Uyv8jdUJT2jcwZY3YM2xICHOtmI0Hbi5MAKLFxlmaiNdS7tJfmMBgAmDPnzRt3BHuMrLCKRERkNFDrbFqYd6w/s16000/Scoring.JPG" title="Scoring on Fan and Fan Housing" /></a></div><br /><br /><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;">As you can see on the inside face of the Fan Housing and on the face of the Fan itself the plastic is deeply scored, suggesting some foreign material has collected inside the Fan and actually fused the Fan and its Housing together</p><p style="text-align: justify;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrIRKr6S3D6XP4VdHB55GVwZ5OEoAFTgF0tHk_Rpc3KBshkJ3UVhOgwqHzsYtnEZxi3XIUgk4eY3D16Ia9nhvG_Tz1o0dDHUlrLiXET_wMXyMba1dqAGgbhZbEIGuH_a91rufG8WgMEQc/s852/fan+running.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Red Light Electrolux Ergorapido" border="0" data-original-height="852" data-original-width="701" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrIRKr6S3D6XP4VdHB55GVwZ5OEoAFTgF0tHk_Rpc3KBshkJ3UVhOgwqHzsYtnEZxi3XIUgk4eY3D16Ia9nhvG_Tz1o0dDHUlrLiXET_wMXyMba1dqAGgbhZbEIGuH_a91rufG8WgMEQc/w262-h320/fan+running.png" title="Checking Motor" width="262" /></a></div> <p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"> </p><p style="text-align: justify;">Once there is no load on the fan we can now see that the fan turns and the motor engages. There is a little vibration but not much and this may be caused because the scoring to the face has slightly altered the balance of the fan.</p><p style="text-align: justify;">Remove as much dust as possible, I used a vacuum cleaner and then a cable tie to clean between the vanes of the fan to remove all the caked on dirt and dust and there was a lot!<br /></p><p style="text-align: justify;"> </p><p style="text-align: justify;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinx6p_vRsqepVtVWR03uamhyl4hQuxFI7d3hLBTWpJ9Cx-LZrSmv83btgQwsxiOQkj00jisAP-2s3gUw5ZHkCZQp2lZOYtfXF8Jo9uRNGaIDOflVapuRkG5z_qWs7FeczeEV1JHor4J8A/s715/damage+and+Housing+fan.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Fault Light Electrolux Ergorapido" border="0" data-original-height="477" data-original-width="715" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinx6p_vRsqepVtVWR03uamhyl4hQuxFI7d3hLBTWpJ9Cx-LZrSmv83btgQwsxiOQkj00jisAP-2s3gUw5ZHkCZQp2lZOYtfXF8Jo9uRNGaIDOflVapuRkG5z_qWs7FeczeEV1JHor4J8A/s16000/damage+and+Housing+fan.JPG" title="Removing Scoring" />
</a> <br /></div><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;">It was evident once the Fan and Fan Housing had been fully cleaned that what ever had damaged them had only done this to part of their surfaces. I then used coarse and fine sand paper to smooth down the areas that had been scored.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpS3WmlQEY5riOvgW8UPVc7LPznT5tI9NDfubJ2l21U9SurrW04G_G_2sFNtmCZwgX2nCKeGg46hB2XRTxw8tJtqUEvdcI1IKgsjzBWHos8_aeD_XecsGdUm04rBDDAFKoPT4X83k4Z6Q/s715/sandpaper.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Electrolux Ergorapido Fault Light On" border="0" data-original-height="503" data-original-width="715" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpS3WmlQEY5riOvgW8UPVc7LPznT5tI9NDfubJ2l21U9SurrW04G_G_2sFNtmCZwgX2nCKeGg46hB2XRTxw8tJtqUEvdcI1IKgsjzBWHos8_aeD_XecsGdUm04rBDDAFKoPT4X83k4Z6Q/s16000/sandpaper.png" title="Fan and Housing Scoring Removed" /></a></div><br /><p style="text-align: justify;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><br /> </p><h2 style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: large;">Reassembly</span><br /></h2><p style="text-align: justify;">Check to make sure it is running OK. Reattach the front of the Fan Housing and then reassemble. Do not forget to secure the circuit board prior to attaching the outer cover (because I did!!).</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhG1e54-GqkhikLVnBRkfClVdMogqvWeKEPWRC61tzQH86DdBp8bPDiTs8c3DtQJb-84tHeNgP2yirKcbzRKvxBe50JHBMP5SaTt0V4BAGm3fm1eN332ragpiRF9tn7YdAaDxMVAELZjCI/s715/Ready+to+roll.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Ergorapido Red Light" border="0" data-original-height="477" data-original-width="715" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhG1e54-GqkhikLVnBRkfClVdMogqvWeKEPWRC61tzQH86DdBp8bPDiTs8c3DtQJb-84tHeNgP2yirKcbzRKvxBe50JHBMP5SaTt0V4BAGm3fm1eN332ragpiRF9tn7YdAaDxMVAELZjCI/s16000/Ready+to+roll.JPG" title="Testing at Each Stage of Re-Assembly" /></a></div><br /><p style="text-align: justify;">Check again to make sure the vacuum cleaner is running. Prior to putting on the empty dust collector, remember to clean the filters, using the method as recommended in the manual.</p><p style="text-align: justify;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXtwBhs6pwa15hCvDmS2gN3vgYq1nMeSejvmkulRewCOe79JypB7eqFedrinRKjfhO1UrupBdPQ1A6EYA57QTrc1i3WJGJS4DxbbQ5Cg_0CZ-gEm5B3KoELv47qnrn5rWZ-ZszplfxYs8/s715/running+3.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Electrolux Ergorapido Motor Not Running" border="0" data-original-height="403" data-original-width="715" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXtwBhs6pwa15hCvDmS2gN3vgYq1nMeSejvmkulRewCOe79JypB7eqFedrinRKjfhO1UrupBdPQ1A6EYA57QTrc1i3WJGJS4DxbbQ5Cg_0CZ-gEm5B3KoELv47qnrn5rWZ-ZszplfxYs8/s16000/running+3.png" title="Fully Functioning Again" /></a></div><br /><br /><p></p><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"> </div><div style="text-align: justify;">Here's the film: <br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /><iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/vM3F_mO8qvE" title="YouTube video player" width="560"></iframe></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />If
you have enjoyed this article and found it interesting then share it
with your friends on social media or suchlike. Please also feel free to
ask questions and or make comments and if you found this helpful and would like to support this site you can always <a href="https://ko-fi.com/X8X01EDNU" target="_blank"><img alt="Buy Me a Coffee at ko-fi.com" border="0" height="36" src="https://az743702.vo.msecnd.net/cdn/kofi3.png?v=2" style="border-color: currentcolor; border-image: none; border-style: none; border-width: 0px; border: 0px; height: 36px;" /></a> =$3.<br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
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Until next time and from a sunny day in Normandie,</div>
<br />
Cheers, Andy </div><div style="text-align: justify;"> </div><div style="text-align: justify;"></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><h2>Additional Information</h2><div>I've received a very interesting question in the comments section below and thought I should insert these images of the circuit board.<br /></div>
<br /> </div><div div="" style="text-align: justify;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiZbZOtEoiR44SiYUgUFsWmk5yHBJ0joPUb8QDPBIsFITYSk2wIonUez3fcLVWV9xkmdWuzZt1LscaqMGLAWYvUCp3ZB4ZEsHjaB4ViBRhocnkKG7nSxNsKB3Ib6Jncf5Y73Dbcb7W-sQ/s715/switch.JPG" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="477" data-original-width="715" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiZbZOtEoiR44SiYUgUFsWmk5yHBJ0joPUb8QDPBIsFITYSk2wIonUez3fcLVWV9xkmdWuzZt1LscaqMGLAWYvUCp3ZB4ZEsHjaB4ViBRhocnkKG7nSxNsKB3Ib6Jncf5Y73Dbcb7W-sQ/s16000/switch.JPG" /></a> <br /></div><div div="" style="text-align: justify;"> </div><div div="" style="text-align: justify;">Underside of circuit board beneath switch (at screwdriver tip) </div><div div="" style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div div="" style="text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj8V2AMWIRJ7Q5VOm4gWA2YjeghgDeAKeb5RS02dtKN_1I9rgeTH3ijda98KhyphenhyphenTfI9O5LXS6tcZYYiImRQcm6PCBoyqDq60gJ9KBDttVn7xBCM2vNQOPTlyJmBo_KkuwffIPukc1jC4bc/s715/powrleads.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="477" data-original-width="715" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj8V2AMWIRJ7Q5VOm4gWA2YjeghgDeAKeb5RS02dtKN_1I9rgeTH3ijda98KhyphenhyphenTfI9O5LXS6tcZYYiImRQcm6PCBoyqDq60gJ9KBDttVn7xBCM2vNQOPTlyJmBo_KkuwffIPukc1jC4bc/s16000/powrleads.JPG" /></a>Power Leads<br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div div="" style="text-align: justify;"></div><img border="0" data-original-height="477" data-original-width="715" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg59xBLq74BuA8oJeLZ3pZjNflvb8OE83aTlqJ3xGMO3WC9ovyZQqNeuKPzm8-rZFoevaKWqoAmOXFQrRJe8Gsb8n1ZNt3jCu2b7NoYfWrFB3K7FN8prDYTVEgKPOWIWtRyMjssL-r0lw/s16000/motaleads.JPG" /><div div="" style="text-align: justify;"> </div><div div="" style="text-align: justify;">Motor Connections <br /></div><div div="" style="text-align: justify;"> </div><div div="" style="text-align: justify;">© Andy Colley 2021</div><div div="" style="text-align: justify;"> </div><div div="" style="text-align: justify;">
<h2>
RELATED ARTICLES</h2></div><br /><p></p><h2><b><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9NxpICIVt7pEgnjnp9GH9H0SrSrj2OK092MKhvFoNdg5rEKYou4zZU18KP2fVODEwplwiFDjU-EGVw4n4mjOzv4giJ46uXupZrt0Veik_AsQfHnH1J_nz7quLVAYXn3f2NLs2m-Ig9Yk/s715/IMG_1777ready.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Rewire and Refurbish a Vintage Light Fitting" border="0" data-original-height="477" data-original-width="715" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9NxpICIVt7pEgnjnp9GH9H0SrSrj2OK092MKhvFoNdg5rEKYou4zZU18KP2fVODEwplwiFDjU-EGVw4n4mjOzv4giJ46uXupZrt0Veik_AsQfHnH1J_nz7quLVAYXn3f2NLs2m-Ig9Yk/w200-h133/IMG_1777ready.JPG" title="Rooster Vintage Chandelier Rewire and Refurbish a Vintage Light Fitting" width="200" /></a></div>Rewire , Repair, Install a Vintage Chandelier </b></h2><p style="text-align: justify;">My cousins found this beautiful vintage
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiChAr-p4GMDbdwiumT1jjOBHOsOLJ5k7GCGlf4caScdoOnQgmc_XsYR9PVuQ9heGvOvKGJ4eYMLWSsFkczZIhUUkOHGy0_GpYlLjt0oBrN5pudMDVaJHErGMsIaMCvKZDGB9ETvNDI0cA/s1600/P1070521.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiChAr-p4GMDbdwiumT1jjOBHOsOLJ5k7GCGlf4caScdoOnQgmc_XsYR9PVuQ9heGvOvKGJ4eYMLWSsFkczZIhUUkOHGy0_GpYlLjt0oBrN5pudMDVaJHErGMsIaMCvKZDGB9ETvNDI0cA/s200/P1070521.JPG" width="200" /></a>How to Convert your Washing Machine to Pedal Power 1 - The Basic Model (Front-Loader)</h2>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
The electronic fault that arose in our automatic washing machine
rendered it useless. I knew that the machine was watertight and...<b><a href="http://thegreenlever.blogspot.fr/2015/12/how-to-convert-your-washing-machine-to_10.html#.Vmlz4npVK1E" target="_blank">read more</a></b></div>
<h2 class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2GG7-nUwePS48dO3Letd7FRYpSXVaPxOJvpUYcGcTDf1xozLG_KtzfSS3Gqd5uSJIP8JL0O7XSiI8Fzc2eHUe5romSapV9D0Al-sUrptoo17lLKtEyfXbFr6wUnEkMai-4P6LRuTWFNg/s1600/IMG_3144.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2GG7-nUwePS48dO3Letd7FRYpSXVaPxOJvpUYcGcTDf1xozLG_KtzfSS3Gqd5uSJIP8JL0O7XSiI8Fzc2eHUe5romSapV9D0Al-sUrptoo17lLKtEyfXbFr6wUnEkMai-4P6LRuTWFNg/s200/IMG_3144.JPG" width="200" /></a>How to Convert your Washing Machine to Pedal Power 2 - Modifications (Front-Loader)</h2>
We’ve exhibited this machine on many occasions and the most frequent
comment from spectators has been ‘let’s see you spin dry now!’...<b><a href="http://thegreenlever.blogspot.fr/2015/12/how-to-convert-your-washing-machine-to.html#.VmrzDnpVK1E" target="_blank">read more</a></b><br />
<br />
<h2 class="post-title entry-title" style="text-align: justify;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2sMcUFAm6Mkwoe0GBHxVeVcWrFSWLKqfOjFtGYbcZTw5h7YehLAFcdUenkDM0YotP5-jOw-2VA9O3Cn1hIOMAqDD1Rs4g1YOQRWbR-vsP1DR63PpTUxrzlhhQ0yxmEindtVmjmok7-0U/s1600/Screenshot+from+MVI_3925.MOVcrop.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1028" height="140" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2sMcUFAm6Mkwoe0GBHxVeVcWrFSWLKqfOjFtGYbcZTw5h7YehLAFcdUenkDM0YotP5-jOw-2VA9O3Cn1hIOMAqDD1Rs4g1YOQRWbR-vsP1DR63PpTUxrzlhhQ0yxmEindtVmjmok7-0U/s200/Screenshot+from+MVI_3925.MOVcrop.png" width="200" /></a>Convert Your Washing Machine to Pedal Power Part 1 - Getting Started (Top-Loader)</h2><p>
The
most frequent reasons for machine failure is of an electrical or
electronic nature. Neither of these preclude using it, as long as the
drum is watertight. Even if you don't already own a broken machine I can
guarantee that..<b><a href="https://thegreenlever.blogspot.com/2018/08/convert-your-washing-machine-to-pedal.html#.W3Rd_hqYOkA" target="_blank">read more</a></b></p><p><b>
</b></p><h2 class="post-title entry-title" style="text-align: justify;">
</h2>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH0hGarn72Qgb7tovbs4dwxceLmVfMlTKm-Wc9IfloM46K2bz2cCDQrijTMFvaTo47ocu-_y06XJ0LZJDf9cBFqIC9HDD43Zui9updrvZQgT9cxdRfORG1UOt93nu13U7BNJB4wQKPXKM/s1600/IMG_8006YTblog.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="970" data-original-width="1600" height="121" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH0hGarn72Qgb7tovbs4dwxceLmVfMlTKm-Wc9IfloM46K2bz2cCDQrijTMFvaTo47ocu-_y06XJ0LZJDf9cBFqIC9HDD43Zui9updrvZQgT9cxdRfORG1UOt93nu13U7BNJB4wQKPXKM/s200/IMG_8006YTblog.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
<h2 style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;">Wheelbarrow rebuild using pallet wood </span></h2>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
I made a pallet wood replacement for our wheelbarrow and it served its purpose for
about 8-10 years. During the last few months of life, I could see
the inherent mechanical weaknesses in my version and so as the frame and
wheel were still in running order, I determined...<b><a href="https://thegreenlever.blogspot.com/2019/09/wheelbarrow-rebuild-using-pallet-wood.html#.XZIrYlcv6V4" target="_blank">read more</a></b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3q6tUUI-d3ygUzTsb77xt8tl0xHZu3jJ2oynpPVAOwdPOUuvHtqzggnH4pqrClFv8wuxuGTCFBYbWbl0JSkpPsg3n7MJgN-Ym0uVob9WqgiyHJM3xiZBRunaqvkVoWWk-BtAWr52C96I/s1600/P1110553.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3q6tUUI-d3ygUzTsb77xt8tl0xHZu3jJ2oynpPVAOwdPOUuvHtqzggnH4pqrClFv8wuxuGTCFBYbWbl0JSkpPsg3n7MJgN-Ym0uVob9WqgiyHJM3xiZBRunaqvkVoWWk-BtAWr52C96I/s1600/P1110553.JPG" width="200" /></a><br />
</div><br /><h2 style="text-align: justify;">
<b>Tailgate gas strut fail? Pallet wood car repair solution - 2 Methods</b></h2>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Goods are made from a series of mass-produced 'outsourced' components,...the durability of some is less than the working life
of the whole....<b><a href="http://thegreenlever.blogspot.fr/2015/01/tailgate-gas-strut-fail-pallet-wood-car.html#.VLKa_IXft0w">read more</a></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><h2 class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ9_EXQKsQnzAbsqRDqfMSgWSi9Xj5Lu4uxrHf9C3clWiWQY4u66f0kgMal0vGGsfElBosEl-_5jtQIjlnIPp2Tl-W30-njqDPLg1jmARqzbuhU2XC-xoAoAJ0kALOmiVWbABtLyywxbE/s1600/IMG_4097blog.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ9_EXQKsQnzAbsqRDqfMSgWSi9Xj5Lu4uxrHf9C3clWiWQY4u66f0kgMal0vGGsfElBosEl-_5jtQIjlnIPp2Tl-W30-njqDPLg1jmARqzbuhU2XC-xoAoAJ0kALOmiVWbABtLyywxbE/s200/IMG_4097blog.JPG" width="200" /></a>Binocular Collimation Quick and Easy Method without Prism Adjustment </h2>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
I was initially put off from correcting an optical fault in an old pair
of Porro prism binoculars because all I had seen or read online involved
prism adjustment...<b><a href="http://thegreenlever.blogspot.fr/2016/08/binocular-collimation-quick-and-easy.html#.V7r9gNGli1E" target="_blank">read more</a></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b> </b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b> </b><br />
</div></div></div>The Green Leverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01335293795269368752noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3199850434720533796.post-6373588619162171782021-04-04T16:18:00.001+02:002021-04-10T16:25:28.425+02:00Rooster Chandelier - Rewire, Refurb and Install a Vintage Chandelier<p style="text-align: justify;">My cousins found this beautiful vintage chandelier in a dumpster/skip in Manhattan and carried it all the way over to us in rural France. I've only ever seen one other similar light fitting on line, it was on Etsy, where it was described as 'French Farmhouse Style', so it looks like this rooster has come home to his native roost.<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9NxpICIVt7pEgnjnp9GH9H0SrSrj2OK092MKhvFoNdg5rEKYou4zZU18KP2fVODEwplwiFDjU-EGVw4n4mjOzv4giJ46uXupZrt0Veik_AsQfHnH1J_nz7quLVAYXn3f2NLs2m-Ig9Yk/s715/IMG_1777ready.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Rewire and Refurbish a Vintage Light Fitting" border="0" data-original-height="477" data-original-width="715" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9NxpICIVt7pEgnjnp9GH9H0SrSrj2OK092MKhvFoNdg5rEKYou4zZU18KP2fVODEwplwiFDjU-EGVw4n4mjOzv4giJ46uXupZrt0Veik_AsQfHnH1J_nz7quLVAYXn3f2NLs2m-Ig9Yk/s16000/IMG_1777ready.JPG" title="Rooster Vintage Chandelier Rewire and Refurbish a Vintage Light Fitting" /></a></div><br /><p style="text-align: justify;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><br />The chandelier is made of mild steel and then finished with a verdigris patina. I'm not sure of its age but looking at the sconces and the good quality of the workmanship (witness the down-sweep of the 'cage' meeting the 'perch' and the individual welding of the feathers), I'm guessing 1950's or maybe a later artisanal piece. I deduce this because it appears to have been MIG welded, a process that only started commercially in 1948. </p><p style="text-align: justify;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3Dh5P3bK8tGAnUI7fxR4fzNo676gxuSq1XHGXNYRsjyuTaH86G6zP8ZaiXnm7-4gBFg0ZUs4Mmfs5CnkeRV_-8W4y77TKvnwjodbHhX4JmIBj13YzK_EGx80RLS1uVgURsbXHMFdEYkA/s715/IMG_1778+ready.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Rewire and Refurbish a Vintage Rooster Light Fitting" border="0" data-original-height="477" data-original-width="715" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3Dh5P3bK8tGAnUI7fxR4fzNo676gxuSq1XHGXNYRsjyuTaH86G6zP8ZaiXnm7-4gBFg0ZUs4Mmfs5CnkeRV_-8W4y77TKvnwjodbHhX4JmIBj13YzK_EGx80RLS1uVgURsbXHMFdEYkA/s16000/IMG_1778+ready.JPG" title="Rooster Chandelier Rewire and Refurbish a Vintage Light Fitting" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Looking at what we previously had as lighting in the kitchen which was a
'brass-een' mock Georgian chandelier, there was no comparison with this
beautiful vintage piece. All it needed was some TLC and a replacement
of the wiring. In the following I go through step-by-step of how I
accomplished this. </div><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXLaNleCBAewfnfJ0T22oGpngqsBawBfDgF_oPgsMSoaUcUlXxp2b-Q9n9_3kC3YYf_iBF5qPZ6da1Rpb9ZeQVeFerbfmpjdKAot9sTAyMELd63PIUID7b_x1zYmCPFjvtNW3ukIBJzqQ/s2048/Kichen+interior+good+photo.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Rewire and Refurbish a Vintage Light Fitting French Farmhouse Style" border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="536" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXLaNleCBAewfnfJ0T22oGpngqsBawBfDgF_oPgsMSoaUcUlXxp2b-Q9n9_3kC3YYf_iBF5qPZ6da1Rpb9ZeQVeFerbfmpjdKAot9sTAyMELd63PIUID7b_x1zYmCPFjvtNW3ukIBJzqQ/w640-h480/Kichen+interior+good+photo.JPG" title="French Farmhouse Style Rewire and Refurbish a Vintage Light Fitting" width="715" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"></p><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;">When it first arrived one of the bulb holders and sconces had come adrift so I had to repair that before I could start the re-wirng. The piece that had come apart was a standard steel nut so it was easy to weld it back in place.</p><p style="text-align: justify;">I had decided that the whole fitting needed re-wiring and the bulb holders replaced.</p><p style="text-align: justify;">Replacement cable of suitable standard was readily available from my local DIY store as were the 5 bulb holders. </p><p style="text-align: justify;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8u1QSxdQy98kzchiYj-guHAOsUMU4AqAtanj8zxm8KmXMFIWpiibasg835MqIMmFB4pIp0bWTIJOFK1Y_Y4KbYygnklrE_CIO1kiOk5XYyWoigSdFRRgoypEAL7KUUbLgaKPyS9v3G40/s2048/IMG_1249crop.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Rewire and Refurbish Vintage Chandelier" border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1985" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8u1QSxdQy98kzchiYj-guHAOsUMU4AqAtanj8zxm8KmXMFIWpiibasg835MqIMmFB4pIp0bWTIJOFK1Y_Y4KbYygnklrE_CIO1kiOk5XYyWoigSdFRRgoypEAL7KUUbLgaKPyS9v3G40/w310-h320/IMG_1249crop.JPG" title="Chandelier stand - rewire and refurbish" width="310" /></a></div> <p></p><p style="text-align: justify;">Before I commenced the re-wiring I attached the chandelier to a wooden stand base that I had made for the dressmaker's dummy. </p><p style="text-align: justify;">The first stage was to to remove the old bulb holders. I detached them from the original wires by unscrewing them from the base of each bulb holder- I did not cut the wires as I was going to need the maximum length of original wire exposed so as to be able to attach the new cable to it for the rewiring process.</p><p style="text-align: justify;"> <br /></p><p style="text-align: justify;"></p><p style="text-align: justify;"></p><p style="text-align: justify;"></p><div style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnZ_YjBmGThdHUvbDg1Ymqv66EqCuC8NrthB2AiEkPcbC4M7Ly8WOyXkJPenyLsHX2o5ItidAUtS8rujVjTTv6CSkC-8z7lJh8776Ad2ANqxVLuNgc840_a_2CqQP5ryuYqTHWejUruUk/s2048/IMG_1250crop.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Rewire and Refurbish a Vintage Light Fitting" border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1978" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnZ_YjBmGThdHUvbDg1Ymqv66EqCuC8NrthB2AiEkPcbC4M7Ly8WOyXkJPenyLsHX2o5ItidAUtS8rujVjTTv6CSkC-8z7lJh8776Ad2ANqxVLuNgc840_a_2CqQP5ryuYqTHWejUruUk/w309-h320/IMG_1250crop.JPG" title="Original wiring Rewire and Refurbish a Vintage Light Fitting" width="309" /></a></div><br /> <p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"> </p><p style="text-align: justify;">At the top of the chandelier was the hanger and short chain for attaching the fitting to a supporting hook. The power supply cable entered the chandelier at this point and comprised of a closed metal cylinder the upper and lower covers on which were removed by unscrewing the hangar. </p><p style="text-align: justify;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL1r5zm_ZUvsH_t3OIrEBuHXlD1JdIsF2jO8H2XSb-LDwZNS6bNUt0HqJA0k9ZoE3MP039L0iMm4kWNsCqz5zkd-6REtH-MTQ42HGTiAemFiXEgfZ4MZL_mmJeO8gyzJHX-1TmAblO_m0/s715/IMG_1251ready.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Rewire and Refurbish a Vintage Chandelier" border="0" data-original-height="477" data-original-width="715" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL1r5zm_ZUvsH_t3OIrEBuHXlD1JdIsF2jO8H2XSb-LDwZNS6bNUt0HqJA0k9ZoE3MP039L0iMm4kWNsCqz5zkd-6REtH-MTQ42HGTiAemFiXEgfZ4MZL_mmJeO8gyzJHX-1TmAblO_m0/s16000/IMG_1251ready.JPG" title="Original Wiring Rewire Chandelier" /></a> <br /></div><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;">Inside the cylinder were the connections necessary to divide the incoming power feed into the five pairs of wires going down inside the arms to the bulb holders. An earth wire was attached to the inside of the metal cylinder and this I considered to be suitable to keep as it was perfectly OK when I checked it for continuity with my multimeter.</p><p style="text-align: justify;"> </p><div style="text-align: justify;"><h2><span style="font-size: large;">Rewiring</span></h2><h2><span style="font-size: large;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVXcwNsAN7FxukBXMdkWgfWMa07bbuvGl5FOZZ6SQ4hgKudVDt5UyRVF-nJR8G5PQmzWbq4gXCpNPfZCtfoqYS7Mjx_nVs0fEE2ppKqstekamtdW7_1SlQVyv1arFrvOGDUOalVMA5KvU/s715/Pulling+through.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Rewire and Refurbish a Vintage Light Fitting" border="0" data-original-height="469" data-original-width="715" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVXcwNsAN7FxukBXMdkWgfWMa07bbuvGl5FOZZ6SQ4hgKudVDt5UyRVF-nJR8G5PQmzWbq4gXCpNPfZCtfoqYS7Mjx_nVs0fEE2ppKqstekamtdW7_1SlQVyv1arFrvOGDUOalVMA5KvU/s16000/Pulling+through.png" title="Rewiring sconces" /></a></div></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLWUoCGCKTaOEnHFTL2ns_clCMDY7GZkAyjpERxkhoHoz4PWSzuokoRjdYN77sLRb5nRF3z9jJiANrtv7zGE9Rx00HbGh6d5KUts7mtAwQBLhVGgRnGJysl9IUJzB1lskPDGsO8XNNSRQ/s2048/IMG_1253ready.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Rewire and Refurbish a Vintage Chandelier" border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1848" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLWUoCGCKTaOEnHFTL2ns_clCMDY7GZkAyjpERxkhoHoz4PWSzuokoRjdYN77sLRb5nRF3z9jJiANrtv7zGE9Rx00HbGh6d5KUts7mtAwQBLhVGgRnGJysl9IUJzB1lskPDGsO8XNNSRQ/w289-h320/IMG_1253ready.JPG" title="WD40 on sconces - rewiring vintage chandelier" width="289" /></a></h2></div><div style="text-align: justify;">I had disconnected the wires from their rather crude connectors at the top of the chandelier so that I could see each pair of wires entering the square tube of each descending arm. I had decided that I would use the original wire to act as a 'pull through' for the new cable and planned to attach the new cable to the free ends of the wire at the bulb holder end and pull it through. I had mistakenly believed I could do this without needing to remove the sconces. This I soon discovered was not possible as these sconces were fitted to a threaded steel nipple which was fixed to the nut on the arm. The angle the wire was taking into the arm was extremely acute and it was impossible to pull the new wire through due to this. Thus, I needed to remove each securing nut, sconce and nipple from the arms prior to feeding in the replacement cable. All but one of these nipples were removed with the minimum trouble thanks to my trusty can of 'WD40' but one nipple would not budge and the thread of this one was damaged in the process of removal. Once all these components were unscrewed, the route for the cable was less restricted. </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwYjQKLM18fOZ0VvaCKw03G1c9MrO6xLL9aBvZz9BYqD5rRmWhMyeXGQFnvjBaBElfNpsY9jdVcaEA1e_zeJAW0aeoMU48SLzvwTQ6ZUzAy6t5NiTOBRJXTfqM3LGJEj5lWbFBE5k4DQQ/s715/IMG_1254combo.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Rewire and Refurbish a Vintage Light Fitting" border="0" data-original-height="354" data-original-width="715" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwYjQKLM18fOZ0VvaCKw03G1c9MrO6xLL9aBvZz9BYqD5rRmWhMyeXGQFnvjBaBElfNpsY9jdVcaEA1e_zeJAW0aeoMU48SLzvwTQ6ZUzAy6t5NiTOBRJXTfqM3LGJEj5lWbFBE5k4DQQ/s16000/IMG_1254combo.JPG" title="Rewiring process - vintage chandelier" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">In order to run the new cable through the arms, I exposed the new wires at the end of the cable and twisted them into those of the old wires and taped them together. I could then pull the old wire from the top of the chandelier whilst simultaneously feeding the new cable in up through the arm. I then repeated this with the other four arms.<br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">I now needed to make a new nipple by drilling a hole down the centre of a bolt and cutting it to length.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"> </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo_ADXPy50sHq-CXvIGgYVaj4AHrzd_ybzVP6pI5JZxs4MpJaT6woNwmuHgo07mxqFFMa240F5omP1Ix-RYQhC2jgpG6qHvdRAqgSAyNCEbMGjuunfYLK1GVn3Jsm60N7St3CJLhNDbFg/s714/New+nipple.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Rewire and Refurbish a Vintage Chandelier" border="0" data-original-height="339" data-original-width="714" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo_ADXPy50sHq-CXvIGgYVaj4AHrzd_ybzVP6pI5JZxs4MpJaT6woNwmuHgo07mxqFFMa240F5omP1Ix-RYQhC2jgpG6qHvdRAqgSAyNCEbMGjuunfYLK1GVn3Jsm60N7St3CJLhNDbFg/s16000/New+nipple.JPG" title="Refurbishing vintage chandelier fittings" /></a></div><br /> </div><div style="text-align: justify;"></div><div style="text-align: justify;">The new cable was now fed through the nipples, sconces, washers and locking nuts and the bared ends of the new wires attached to the bulb holders, which were then screwed in place.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNJPnBeXACol2WBiLSr1Tr8noY44_-SrnaJ36bLyykPhrU9R1bgzM8I4xBdlQnQOOksZaDkPw-R0hH72wVEKZVNApeTIe4fBL2gKWGn6z0j_BvsnjZkeKK_fQ8_ob30mX4KdwczBnXZSo/s2048/Fitting.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Rewire and Refurbish and Installing Vintage Light Fitting" border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1801" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNJPnBeXACol2WBiLSr1Tr8noY44_-SrnaJ36bLyykPhrU9R1bgzM8I4xBdlQnQOOksZaDkPw-R0hH72wVEKZVNApeTIe4fBL2gKWGn6z0j_BvsnjZkeKK_fQ8_ob30mX4KdwczBnXZSo/w281-h320/Fitting.JPG" title="Installing Vintage Chandelier" width="281" /></a></div>At the top of the chandelier, I cut the wires to length and connected these to the connecting blocks. I then fed the new supply cable through the hangar and the lid of the cylinder and attached it to the other side of the connecting blocks. After this was done, I closed the top of the housing and tightened the suspension/hanging ring.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">I attached a plug to the power feed wire and fitted the bulbs in place so I could check connections. After that was done I was ready for the lighting ceremony and the chandelier was fitted into place and wired into the house lighting circuit.<br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"> </div><div style="text-align: justify;"> </div><div style="text-align: justify;">Here's the film:</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/BcTWZhPi6Co" title="YouTube video player" width="560"></iframe> </div><div style="text-align: justify;"></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" height="315" id="lbry-iframe" src="https://odysee.com/$/embed/vintage-chandelier-repair-and-rewire/9580868703e15302b7a6e10bad9f8bf9fe726f6e?r=H2cehDizr57XKowkWoLZCu6uVuxk8fKK" width="560"></iframe>
<br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">If you would like to join me on Odysee then please do so through this link and I will get a bonus and you shold get some crypto too! <a href="https://odysee.com/$/invite/@Organikmechanic:0" target="_blank">Odysee - Organikmechanic </a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvKXS1mrbgRbPySk4t_BS6F6IJTrZivNf4z51GV0zkYoHJ7FZTw4EtKaQy5oL6Zlxcnvvp9jpWINEEeyQ2HRPmhmQhZ2JqaOAbapz3LjwYYzV4M7CBvUNX5rhQZqqrYx-7eparNv3YHwU/s2048/IMG_0448.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Rewire and Refurbish a Vintage Rooster Chandelier" border="0" data-original-height="1897" data-original-width="2048" height="296" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvKXS1mrbgRbPySk4t_BS6F6IJTrZivNf4z51GV0zkYoHJ7FZTw4EtKaQy5oL6Zlxcnvvp9jpWINEEeyQ2HRPmhmQhZ2JqaOAbapz3LjwYYzV4M7CBvUNX5rhQZqqrYx-7eparNv3YHwU/w320-h296/IMG_0448.JPG" title="Fiat Lux - Rewiring and Installing a Vintage Chandelier" width="320" /></a></div>Fiat lux!</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">If
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<p></p><div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Until next time and from a sunny day in Normandie,</div>
<br />
Cheers, Andy
<br />
<br /> </div><div div="" style="text-align: justify;">© Andy Colley 2021</div><div div="" style="text-align: justify;"> </div><div div="" style="text-align: justify;"></div><div div="" style="text-align: justify;">
<h2>
RELATED ARTICLES</h2></div><h2 class="post-title entry-title" style="text-align: justify;">
</h2>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH0hGarn72Qgb7tovbs4dwxceLmVfMlTKm-Wc9IfloM46K2bz2cCDQrijTMFvaTo47ocu-_y06XJ0LZJDf9cBFqIC9HDD43Zui9updrvZQgT9cxdRfORG1UOt93nu13U7BNJB4wQKPXKM/s1600/IMG_8006YTblog.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="970" data-original-width="1600" height="121" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH0hGarn72Qgb7tovbs4dwxceLmVfMlTKm-Wc9IfloM46K2bz2cCDQrijTMFvaTo47ocu-_y06XJ0LZJDf9cBFqIC9HDD43Zui9updrvZQgT9cxdRfORG1UOt93nu13U7BNJB4wQKPXKM/s200/IMG_8006YTblog.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
<h2 style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;">Wheelbarrow rebuild using pallet wood </span></h2>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
I made a pallet wood replacement for our wheelbarrow and it served its purpose for
about 8-10 years. During the last few months of life, I could see
the inherent mechanical weaknesses in my version and so as the frame and
wheel were still in running order, I determined...<b><a href="https://thegreenlever.blogspot.com/2019/09/wheelbarrow-rebuild-using-pallet-wood.html#.XZIrYlcv6V4" target="_blank">read more</a></b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLWvWkQUZFBeJrgsoa3CKC5YaVcQO3Q82eWfJs7j8tXaafmEW-ttM0IAz5Zfd7Urh0-FwWpmNDrtsTx8mbVRFnuNNfT6nGwKdaPinRABZifDSyT-UOgLkxWoquAK1lGUBmavwGS-l10Mk/s1600/Dummys+thumbnail.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="112" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLWvWkQUZFBeJrgsoa3CKC5YaVcQO3Q82eWfJs7j8tXaafmEW-ttM0IAz5Zfd7Urh0-FwWpmNDrtsTx8mbVRFnuNNfT6nGwKdaPinRABZifDSyT-UOgLkxWoquAK1lGUBmavwGS-l10Mk/s1600/Dummys+thumbnail.JPG" width="200" /></a>
</div><br /><h2>
<b>
Pallet Wood Dress Form & Display Dummy. Part 1</b></h2>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Sue is making costumes for Climb the Ivy Films in Scotland, with no
possibility for fittings. Our pallet wood dress form can be adjusted for
men women and children...<b><a href="http://thegreenlever.blogspot.fr/2015/03/pallet-wood-dressmaking-and-display.html#.VP245zWYO1E">read more</a></b>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgfKob9Ft_f3EcEv4haUU_UUEjlL67yDkRSGSH900LbVd5LumW2PLdibQsHmhlkxtPy0GxH0sEs2TOmz6nDneaZ0q2Ox513mdUR3X6w_0G4yI8DaB7quVBRS-UDNiqv9WWuKFi7qbw4CQ/s1600/IMG_8765.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgfKob9Ft_f3EcEv4haUU_UUEjlL67yDkRSGSH900LbVd5LumW2PLdibQsHmhlkxtPy0GxH0sEs2TOmz6nDneaZ0q2Ox513mdUR3X6w_0G4yI8DaB7quVBRS-UDNiqv9WWuKFi7qbw4CQ/s200/IMG_8765.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<h2>
<b>Pallet Wood Dress Form & Display Dummy Part 2</b></h2>
</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Stretching a tee shirt over the form and/or padding it out with fabric
the finished mannequin also makes a great display stand for yard sales,
craft fairs or
for photographing items for sale on etsy or ebay...<b><a href="http://thegreenlever.blogspot.fr/2016/02/home-made-router-table-from-scrap.html#.Vr9DzEJVK1E" target="_blank">read moremore</a></b></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWQRgSbOAZ9qSb9w27TTzNGNDkrShDWC6y_RRFLkmP8mpDyscCWQ1GxZssiF8Igx_yj395I3vHgljHiMNHhjHGN8xspZz14lPYhSIaQRWFptvTodXzHgiKd6F_DAV0HUifKUaNJ_a6j0I/s1600/IMG_0512blog.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWQRgSbOAZ9qSb9w27TTzNGNDkrShDWC6y_RRFLkmP8mpDyscCWQ1GxZssiF8Igx_yj395I3vHgljHiMNHhjHGN8xspZz14lPYhSIaQRWFptvTodXzHgiKd6F_DAV0HUifKUaNJ_a6j0I/s200/IMG_0512blog.JPG" width="133" /></a></div>
<h2 class="post-title entry-title" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: medium;">Home-made Studio Lights from Recuperated Materials</span></h2>
<br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Anyone who takes photos or makes videos especially indoors realises the
importance of good lighting.
Some years ago I made a floodlight using a bright, low energy bulb
fitted into a reflector-lined bowl. The bowl was a plastic garden
planter and the whole thing cost me next to nothing to make...<b><a href="https://thegreenlever.blogspot.fr/2017/11/diy-studio-lights-from-recuperated.html#.WiA4bnBrxj4" target="_blank">read more</a></b><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_qCHRej4nDmp_DOE0t-epKf9nhzzI-WE19Cu6Vtpm1_SHoTwmrpkIQXU1ZTN65MdUf-OaR-prL2Ean55wQNLEEyu80947Q4gvwtkAPSgbPc5cDO0CwlDUPsfqYBuhXDDXoUB075SCOYs/s1600/IMG_1232blog.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_qCHRej4nDmp_DOE0t-epKf9nhzzI-WE19Cu6Vtpm1_SHoTwmrpkIQXU1ZTN65MdUf-OaR-prL2Ean55wQNLEEyu80947Q4gvwtkAPSgbPc5cDO0CwlDUPsfqYBuhXDDXoUB075SCOYs/s200/IMG_1232blog.JPG" width="133" /></a></div>
<br />
<h2 style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;">LED Telescope Tripod Lights from Scrap
</span></h2>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
There is nothing so sorry looking as a garland of Fairy lights with some
of the bulbs diminished or dead. You feel you can't throw them away as
some of the lamps are burning bravely... The lights here are
battery powered LEDs, which make them ideal for upcycling to tripod
lights, as they have both the required battery pack and switch.<b>...<a href="https://thegreenlever.blogspot.com/2020/08/led-telescope-tripod-lights-from-scrap.html#.XzqEyXcv6V4" target="_blank">read more</a></b></div>
<br />
</div><p><br /></p><p></p></div>The Green Leverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01335293795269368752noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3199850434720533796.post-3948577985116632422021-01-21T23:06:00.001+01:002021-01-22T00:51:41.861+01:00How to Make a Laser Guided Angle Grinder<p style="text-align: justify;">Over the next few weeks, I will need to cut some 4" steel pipe to fabricate a J tube rocket stove much like the one I made (<b><a href="https://thegreenlever.blogspot.com/2020/07/diy-j-rocket-stove-artistic-scrap-metal.html" target="_blank">here</a></b>). When making the 'Rooster Rocket' I found it quite difficult to mark and
accurately cut this 45° angle resulting in some scrap production and
finally having to spend quite some time on grinding away the errors to
attain the desired angle. So here's an idea I came up with to make life easier.</p><div style="text-align: justify;"> </div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-UiNUI-KwLOBUJYVo3yGygEO3qzJdbSXMXLsw3kDnoGVoTY5MDT-P5TauD0eNKTsc_14uvGBd-2NuA0EbV_BqBBlaCAaGIqFMUIu2jXAaoUJqKz971XJ37Ta-ocurB5c6l1Q0h1VTK6Y/s2048/IMG_9932.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1365" data-original-width="2048" height="477" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-UiNUI-KwLOBUJYVo3yGygEO3qzJdbSXMXLsw3kDnoGVoTY5MDT-P5TauD0eNKTsc_14uvGBd-2NuA0EbV_BqBBlaCAaGIqFMUIu2jXAaoUJqKz971XJ37Ta-ocurB5c6l1Q0h1VTK6Y/w640-h426/IMG_9932.JPG" width="715" /></a><br /><p><br /></p><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;">I've planned to construct a Rocket Stove Mass Heater for our lounge which will use a 5⅛" diameter steel pipe system. For both stoves I will need to part off the pipe at a 45° angle so as to produce the mitred joints creating a 90° angle when the pipes are joined.</p><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH_X7G7ajyx2lf_bnCcZ7tA-eprVdnv9sgrWzkghWhPUn5DpBMYCznRm8bdsK_llL8cuk0xvJfByJCJGgxe2uWzVgEUqV7kCr-jjqsnbu7AA_YVGnocZ9PXwQ7z3-z2LAfnECqlz3NI-0/s2048/IMG_0940blog.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1365" data-original-width="2048" height="477" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH_X7G7ajyx2lf_bnCcZ7tA-eprVdnv9sgrWzkghWhPUn5DpBMYCznRm8bdsK_llL8cuk0xvJfByJCJGgxe2uWzVgEUqV7kCr-jjqsnbu7AA_YVGnocZ9PXwQ7z3-z2LAfnECqlz3NI-0/w640-h426/IMG_0940blog.JPG" width="716" /></a></div><br /><p style="text-align: justify;"><br /></p><p style="text-align: justify;">I visited my steel supplier to check the stock of the tube I needed and to enquire about cutting the mitre when the tube was being cut to length. I was disappointed to discover that their cutting grinder was unable to provide the 45° cut on the 5⅛" pipe. Returning home I decided to come up with a method of performing this cut using my hand held angle grinder.</p><br /><div div="" style="text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLQP0Jue4QncgmyC3JMv9WrYUGSswZuElhIaTN7cnE1YpGqMm4QXk3qzj6_NyvdoS3FpKbOYZj5MrQ0LIV3xnQ56Bw74l-Wya5uq9-ALc9ikvs5aUwC20RW61FruMTC0QYa9YF7QEh6i4/s2048/IMG_4574.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1365" data-original-width="2048" height="477" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLQP0Jue4QncgmyC3JMv9WrYUGSswZuElhIaTN7cnE1YpGqMm4QXk3qzj6_NyvdoS3FpKbOYZj5MrQ0LIV3xnQ56Bw74l-Wya5uq9-ALc9ikvs5aUwC20RW61FruMTC0QYa9YF7QEh6i4/w640-h426/IMG_4574.JPG" width="715" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>In the past I had made use of a light source to help me with attaining the correct angle when hand-sharpening wood plane blades and chisels (<a href="https://thegreenlever.blogspot.com/2013/01/a-simple-home-made-honing-guide-for.html#.YAgpLHfk-V4" target="_blank">here</a>) and this got me thinking about using some sort of bright light to act as the guide when cutting the pipe.</p><p><script type="text/javascript">
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<script src="//z-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/onejs?MarketPlace=US"></script></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp2lp4QC_c__xx2Bi6w_LefpIiedt0rVi44KrsMXl30O0_Uk_jwqXano33hOD0AYwvRW3DGjxRo2B8q_lVPpN5EzdQuBg_mIDoV2D-Gk05MmcWsdbyiYQRphxCfZOz6qt_lBxwxWwKXp0/s2048/IMG_9931crop.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1744" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp2lp4QC_c__xx2Bi6w_LefpIiedt0rVi44KrsMXl30O0_Uk_jwqXano33hOD0AYwvRW3DGjxRo2B8q_lVPpN5EzdQuBg_mIDoV2D-Gk05MmcWsdbyiYQRphxCfZOz6qt_lBxwxWwKXp0/w272-h320/IMG_9931crop.JPG" width="272" /></a></div>At the back of my tool cupboard was a spirit level with, on one end, a low-powered laser light capable of producing a point (no longer working) and on the side; a laser and lens that produced a straight line. This bright red line was ideal for producing my grinding guide.<p></p><p>I first constructed from pallet wood (what else?) two vee-block supports capable of holding a tube firmly in place. These supports were placed on a pallet on the floor alongside my workbench. I clamped my spirit level to the workbench so that the side which produced the laser line was facing down onto the pallet. </p><p>Turning the laser on, the line was very clear and I could then adjust the position so that it was at 45° along the pallet deck. To determine the correct angle, I merely made sure that the line was the hypotenuse of a square I measured out on the pallet. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCdwOpQbKjm-E86oZMUTGHmnlHhJWPjoG0UbtnjT9VrV_fdWSUiSRxF8yeR68ZlPk0ZaDcDjkZHcqqN-DBiN13PN9r0NJoqJIfDD6vs5xlLC6td4AUbPdF0dcqVsBpj8CCqiexbODhOBM/s2048/IMG_9938.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1365" data-original-width="2048" height="477" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCdwOpQbKjm-E86oZMUTGHmnlHhJWPjoG0UbtnjT9VrV_fdWSUiSRxF8yeR68ZlPk0ZaDcDjkZHcqqN-DBiN13PN9r0NJoqJIfDD6vs5xlLC6td4AUbPdF0dcqVsBpj8CCqiexbODhOBM/w640-h426/IMG_9938.JPG" width="715" /></a></div><br /><p>The vee-block supports were placed on the pallet such that they were at right angles to the pallet edge and that the laser line was close to the left hand one - this because my stance for cutting with the angle grinder felt more comfortable oriented this way. I laid the pipe onto the vee-blocks with the laser line marking the intended cut line on the left hand end of the pipe.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTgtt4XDI6TO4KQOGHFjU2f8f0uXzgaPpgcbKFb2HY4c9ePPLWduP_BJDL5LcPYyJI_2GwpuGrag4mDOmjesNrOv6TK1LajYiAlroqwHMCW7fTk_KGRxdVekSxNk_D5jQlnEpShP6Ikvw/s1920/SPARKY.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1920" height="402" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTgtt4XDI6TO4KQOGHFjU2f8f0uXzgaPpgcbKFb2HY4c9ePPLWduP_BJDL5LcPYyJI_2GwpuGrag4mDOmjesNrOv6TK1LajYiAlroqwHMCW7fTk_KGRxdVekSxNk_D5jQlnEpShP6Ikvw/w640-h360/SPARKY.png" width="715" /></a></div><br /><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQNDMDhs7q8URuCZ9MRxadFfbKf3XVM8mDagPg6vqjkvlbk591EjbJvlNGhUszbVjD98KRYXimvoVMMvCAnRIwcQySat37mND-VAplgI4JkqTqVY6bXiiSf2RGd1tYyrhJdGGT45YulsQ/s1104/Sparky+turnover.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1104" height="391" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQNDMDhs7q8URuCZ9MRxadFfbKf3XVM8mDagPg6vqjkvlbk591EjbJvlNGhUszbVjD98KRYXimvoVMMvCAnRIwcQySat37mND-VAplgI4JkqTqVY6bXiiSf2RGd1tYyrhJdGGT45YulsQ/w400-h391/Sparky+turnover.png" width="400" /></a></div>I could now start cutting with the angle grinder, the cutting disc being positioned so that it entered the pipe at 90° to the pipe surface, The grinder was moved along the pipe following the guide line, always maintaining the disc angle square to the pipe face. It was possible to follow the guide line down each side of the pipe until a cut was made through half of it. <p></p><p>To repeat the cut on the other side of the pipe, I repositioned the spirit level to produce the line at 45° in the opposite direction i.e. the line had been rotated through 90°. The pipe also needed to be rotated to position the underside of it for cutting. Prior to taking the pipe out of the vee-blocks I found it useful to mark with chalk the top and bottom of the pipe so that on rotating, the two marks would be once again vertically opposite each other. The pipe could be slid in the vee-blocks into the laser line such that the line was coincident with the ends of the cut made in the first step. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkfTKiUiQpurqv4mpDQgpH_mR-E_Ci3NCfm8BjIGSgxWAQelNf3W_7dYcXLSnyb_VgMu5aIMcBnY4y1qN43bKFAVgDlw7fOvFxsAsEDsAoaWpaLocH2QPZJChzWGW0zq3tjQM31WzVgG4/s1500/Sparky+2.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1500" height="515" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkfTKiUiQpurqv4mpDQgpH_mR-E_Ci3NCfm8BjIGSgxWAQelNf3W_7dYcXLSnyb_VgMu5aIMcBnY4y1qN43bKFAVgDlw7fOvFxsAsEDsAoaWpaLocH2QPZJChzWGW0zq3tjQM31WzVgG4/w640-h460/Sparky+2.png" width="715" /></a></div><br /><p><span>Once again the grinder disc was held square to the pipe surface during cutting</span></p><p><span>When the cutting was completed, I exchanged the cutting disc for a grinding disc and de-burred the cut face. </span></p><p><span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3FV4GEwDGGAc12Cxk93Q8MRoGs2s8iUKKVxa6je1rkn8Qez8CUNmi1Ahnb90mwnwxGaV1cpVp_YKLXFhFdVZPsHfbhxGXVjNKkXtfzmfcc6BjWKglY6jnDXfDjJtxwlsQFcW7MqG2oyc/s2048/IMG_9942.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1365" data-original-width="2048" height="477" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3FV4GEwDGGAc12Cxk93Q8MRoGs2s8iUKKVxa6je1rkn8Qez8CUNmi1Ahnb90mwnwxGaV1cpVp_YKLXFhFdVZPsHfbhxGXVjNKkXtfzmfcc6BjWKglY6jnDXfDjJtxwlsQFcW7MqG2oyc/w640-h426/IMG_9942.JPG" width="715" /></a></span></div><p><span>It was quite evident that the mitre cut produced was much more accurate than my previous attempts and required very little dressing with the grinder to produce a satisfactory face to join with the next portion of pipe.</span></p><p><span>When cutting, the shadow of the grinder did block the laser light, but it was easy to make several light cuts in the pipe and after each cut to check it with the laser line. I did think that perhaps I could have traced a line in chalk following the guide line but I found it quite easy not to deviate too far from the temporarily obscured line. </span></p><p><span>Here's the film:</span></p><p style="text-align: center;"><span> </span><iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Fe3M4yEkP5c" width="560"></iframe></p><p>
</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijarxGIh5A6J4z3qOHyogs49HJI9t_HLkAWbOaj6IDTcx2Sk3p1_xzgspnYiQBuLC0Jn3hJF9OAWbLfmErwfGVfyI2VKUJIjO7KVllAa72G5ge8ZiN5NMZ74Ui7wHbfW4_GfyLfiI-KjI/s2048/IMG_9943crop.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1358" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijarxGIh5A6J4z3qOHyogs49HJI9t_HLkAWbOaj6IDTcx2Sk3p1_xzgspnYiQBuLC0Jn3hJF9OAWbLfmErwfGVfyI2VKUJIjO7KVllAa72G5ge8ZiN5NMZ74Ui7wHbfW4_GfyLfiI-KjI/s320/IMG_9943crop.JPG" /></a></div>If
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ask questions and or make comments and if you found this helpful and would like to support this site you can always <a href="https://ko-fi.com/X8X01EDNU" target="_blank"><img alt="Buy Me a Coffee at ko-fi.com" border="0" height="36" src="https://az743702.vo.msecnd.net/cdn/kofi3.png?v=2" style="border-color: currentcolor; border-image: none; border-style: none; border-width: 0px; border: 0px; height: 36px;" /></a> =$3.<br />
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Until next time and from a sunny day in Normandie,</div>
<br />
Cheers, Andy
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<br /> </div><div div="" style="text-align: justify;">© Andy Colley 2021</div><div div="" style="text-align: justify;"> </div><div div="" style="text-align: justify;"></div><div div="" style="text-align: justify;"><br />
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All gardens look more interesting with decorative features in them whether they are supporting plants or providing shelters or windbreaks for plants and humans. They can be made from a variety of materials depending on their function, but normally they are fabricated from wood (such as for fences, trellis and arches) or metal, either tube or solid bar. Arches naturally suggest an entrance or continuation and look particularly quirky and intriguing when they are up against an exterior wall like this one. You instinctively feel there must be a secret doorway - if only you could find it.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div>
<div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGBzbKdsse9djZjWPAADEvbuXm6ZIvUu-UsJbQ7jUj_5CBz7LCB0oV8AI7KsFkeX2XcAfKX_QstkYdoMQhmw9kuKriUnNQI4OWEuwJxGSvYQPQBcmuPMB0KfqkPC51ttBlNs5QLTpRjqxDBIdYZzT3C_2Uvism0O5gxr4Bq4JVVDfMK_wMOwuadNagglo/s6000/IMG_1030aaacrop.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5987" data-original-width="6000" height="638" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGBzbKdsse9djZjWPAADEvbuXm6ZIvUu-UsJbQ7jUj_5CBz7LCB0oV8AI7KsFkeX2XcAfKX_QstkYdoMQhmw9kuKriUnNQI4OWEuwJxGSvYQPQBcmuPMB0KfqkPC51ttBlNs5QLTpRjqxDBIdYZzT3C_2Uvism0O5gxr4Bq4JVVDfMK_wMOwuadNagglo/w640-h638/IMG_1030aaacrop.JPG" width="715" /></a></div><br /></div><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgzuRAzj1fxLWrLoYSQQabtjKDUJLEO3G2umw-nUjx29UoYoaenWLt3_sOTRrw6YidtLzvN9xE3i1kPp2Z4BaNOUT28RRG3BOsmdBlVacBxc7FNmOJvWW19uHvV21vA4ERJc7dji6Jl6A/s1600/IMG_1026blog.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Metal garden feature" border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="973" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgzuRAzj1fxLWrLoYSQQabtjKDUJLEO3G2umw-nUjx29UoYoaenWLt3_sOTRrw6YidtLzvN9xE3i1kPp2Z4BaNOUT28RRG3BOsmdBlVacBxc7FNmOJvWW19uHvV21vA4ERJc7dji6Jl6A/s640/IMG_1026blog.JPG" title="Completed arch side elevation" width="388" /></a></div>
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Wood structures are great and can be readily fabricated often from my favourite material recuperated pallet wood (links below). The disadvantage with wood is often that its lifespan can be relatively short and if it is supporting a plant, repair or replacement could result in damaging the plant. Furthermore, I often find that wooden structures can appear too cumbersome for their duty and this detracts from the elegance and beauty of the plants they are meant to be supporting. It is for this reason that I like to see metal structures in the garden landscape, or as is often the case you do not see them because of their finer structure. </div>
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I've made several arches and one aviary from welded metal bar and can testify to the durability of this material and to how they contribute to the architecture of the garden without being too obtrusive. Left unpainted, the metal arches develop a patina of oxide which I find tasteful and blends well with the verdure.</div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU2ghbntQTWUByACHJOPDSk0KB4GFkZjFq0t8lBtL-AIyFv0UT4oNcFcmrdEp-sfp6UGWJiRLV2sjtYw-zApF6FTDg-JECLtK0IVMrqu6Ne0ZFyxuo_EXBqfl-wATYsEbP9JUaUY5Xk-w/s1600/IMG_3289a.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Weekend welding project" border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="477" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU2ghbntQTWUByACHJOPDSk0KB4GFkZjFq0t8lBtL-AIyFv0UT4oNcFcmrdEp-sfp6UGWJiRLV2sjtYw-zApF6FTDg-JECLtK0IVMrqu6Ne0ZFyxuo_EXBqfl-wATYsEbP9JUaUY5Xk-w/s640/IMG_3289a.JPG" title="Well established rose arch" width="715" /></a>
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I recently got asked to make an arch for a friend whose original rose arch had fallen apart.<br />
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These are the stages I undertook to make the replacement.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Design </span></h2>
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<a href="http://www.bl.uk/IllImages/BLCD/big/K900/K90049-73a.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Garden rose arch" border="0" data-original-height="793" data-original-width="800" height="396" src="https://www.bl.uk/IllImages/BLCD/big/K900/K90049-73a.jpg" title="Source material for the arch" width="400" /></a>My arches invariably comprise two sides embedded into the ground each side looks like an ethereal ladder, horizontal 'rungs' welded to two uprights. To join these sides and form the arch shape, I attach the top with bolts to the vertical ladders. I make the arch shape by bending four identically shaped sections which when joined at the centre of the structure form the shape of a Tudor arch. To decorate the highest point of the arch I like to have a finial as the finishing touch to emphasize the structure's shape. Image thanks to the British Library 15th Century Pseudo-Heloise, Poems; Art d'amour.<b> </b></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjK7kyAynvKKVPotQpr_NDKW8r_RlIpJAJAoXxXtO9ezH92DRboQQbk1zEYoJtoDIq3_vScTbazs1xmP5yTPfXECppmmLGRghW3MzkmexK40aZg8_ZLByQeI3ZkHt05a6oW7JwiHVbR5blIYpNJeNizTd6yUrZ-Vl4dn8gxpOOiyN4BCXMC-ccHBNiezyA/s5184/IMG_1030aaa.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5184" data-original-width="3456" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjK7kyAynvKKVPotQpr_NDKW8r_RlIpJAJAoXxXtO9ezH92DRboQQbk1zEYoJtoDIq3_vScTbazs1xmP5yTPfXECppmmLGRghW3MzkmexK40aZg8_ZLByQeI3ZkHt05a6oW7JwiHVbR5blIYpNJeNizTd6yUrZ-Vl4dn8gxpOOiyN4BCXMC-ccHBNiezyA/w266-h400/IMG_1030aaa.JPG" width="266" /></a></div><br />The free ends at the bottom of the arch are embedded in the ground, I normally create a guide hole for each free end with the pointed end of a heavy crowbar. Each side of the arch is brought into position so that the free ends are in the holes and they are then forced deeper into the ground by pushing down with the foot onto the lowest horizontal 'rung'. With this particular arch I knew that the soil was pretty free of any obstructions like stones or buried broken tiles but if I thought otherwise I would grind the free ends to a point to aid the insertion.</div>
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The required dimensions for the rose arch in this project were: Height 1800mm (71"), width 400mm (16") span 1100mm (44"). The height was to be the above ground height, a further 400mm (16") would be pushed into the ground . I decided to make the uprights 1600mm (63") long, the balance of the required height to be that of the arch section.</div>
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<h2>
<span style="font-size: large;">A Foreword About Materials</span></h2>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiebbIelPCwAp7zgWJKJc_vU7kx4usxBx3SKoRfMpXIacNEXvLjXsOosCmUKbvbQVWuNb0W8rSTbYM7M_ZRtwRHkzjJYS0pU1o0HOofRAo2QO2WXq1MAuU2WnyKJQCcq-TGGBqQ7VUYcFo/s1600/IMG_0748blog.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="DIY rose arch" border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="400" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiebbIelPCwAp7zgWJKJc_vU7kx4usxBx3SKoRfMpXIacNEXvLjXsOosCmUKbvbQVWuNb0W8rSTbYM7M_ZRtwRHkzjJYS0pU1o0HOofRAo2QO2WXq1MAuU2WnyKJQCcq-TGGBqQ7VUYcFo/s400/IMG_0748blog.JPG" title="Finials" width="266" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div>
The structure was made from 12mm (½") round mild steel bar- specified by my local supplier as 'smooth weldable reinforcing bar'. </div>
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I cut the 8 brackets for joining the sections together from steel angle 25mm x 25mm x 3mm (1"x1"x ⅛").</div>
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The embellishment at the top was made up of two items taken from a selection of cast metal decorative finials I had purchased some years ago from Sharratts in Leigh, Lancashire. One was a round ball (not shown) and the other a <i>fleur de lis</i>. </div>
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I think the addition of a finial, makes for an aesthetically-pleasing and 'finished' look to the project. To me, it turns something made from very cheap and basic metal sections into something much more decorative.</div>
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<h2><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></h2><h2><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></h2><h2>
<span style="font-size: large;">Fabrication</span></h2>
<h2>Arch - Sides</h2>
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I cut and welded together the components that made up the two 'ladders'. The first (lowest) bottom rung of the ladder was 40 cm from the ladder bottom. the protruding ends were to be pushed into the ground. When both sides were completed, I cut eight short lengths of angle, one face of each angle was drilled to accommodate a 8mm bolt.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTjepnnckqJnzqV3E-BbBB075_ThKE4GEGVgIDrkNlla-9OKUc7_LrEi0G05GxtJsWdvHhyVfTbuZm-tL2bQII6nOjxvwDQsiFjflZ5jO4pbQaGLiSG66lBCFFPa6QSsj4iqlKby_b4FkzelK8Z-gBREgfY6mJfLd1LhJNWJgQFMI3OvO04U7p2ZPHe58/s4021/IMG_0755crop.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2651" data-original-width="4021" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTjepnnckqJnzqV3E-BbBB075_ThKE4GEGVgIDrkNlla-9OKUc7_LrEi0G05GxtJsWdvHhyVfTbuZm-tL2bQII6nOjxvwDQsiFjflZ5jO4pbQaGLiSG66lBCFFPa6QSsj4iqlKby_b4FkzelK8Z-gBREgfY6mJfLd1LhJNWJgQFMI3OvO04U7p2ZPHe58/w640-h422/IMG_0755crop.JPG" width="715" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN8RtHmLjRxwJ2lzwQEpwbWxcwYNah982_LnYGyq25PkbmcXFbAnxaE6SR7VgmM3O4YldDbdWnW1qfMd1j2uTvZwjh3Re7QrUNficRxRjgj2jNn7_ihcI8UR4BQob1SRcsdt1pGGIST0o/s1600/IMG_9571blog.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Elegant rose arch" border="0" data-original-height="477" data-original-width="715" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN8RtHmLjRxwJ2lzwQEpwbWxcwYNah982_LnYGyq25PkbmcXFbAnxaE6SR7VgmM3O4YldDbdWnW1qfMd1j2uTvZwjh3Re7QrUNficRxRjgj2jNn7_ihcI8UR4BQob1SRcsdt1pGGIST0o/s1600/IMG_9571blog.JPG" title="Angled bracket ready for weldinf" /></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
Each angle bracket was welded to the top of the 'ladder ends'. The four remaining angle brackets were welded to the ends of the arch top 'legs'. This was to facilitate the assembly of the arch, in particular in this case because it needed to be transported and didn't fit in the car as a whole item! However the ladder and top can be made in one piece but it makes for an unnecessarily difficult time bending something so unwieldy!</div>
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<h2>
Arch - Top</h2>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKBI9EH0eBctWrs4w0Lpjt_qUVc62oNvQNNwu4D8ORyuPCRHS9IjjDLqM8axgFHg3tflEL9sQJzeWF7SBI92NTwU_VEDDzbvXD4hxjEanEO-xwj7sfgHwyTkQCDTEhqvKuxOjBw3r5jsA/s1600/IMG_0758blog.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Welded rose arch" border="0" data-original-height="477" data-original-width="715" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKBI9EH0eBctWrs4w0Lpjt_qUVc62oNvQNNwu4D8ORyuPCRHS9IjjDLqM8axgFHg3tflEL9sQJzeWF7SBI92NTwU_VEDDzbvXD4hxjEanEO-xwj7sfgHwyTkQCDTEhqvKuxOjBw3r5jsA/s1600/IMG_0758blog.JPG" title="The bending fixture" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
As the design requires no complicated curves, there is no need to make any bending forms for the top section. The curve is simply made by my use of a home-made bending fixture. Use a 1m or a 3' length of 'I' section rolled steel joist, at one end of which, is welded a short piece of angled steel across the width. this acts as the fulcrum when bending.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyZY_RWPYp4NujuZn-RsKOJ2kCLpRueHiYGJEUN-7ejwhq1zc17XsSA1y1FAR0hy6cKawlq8cqveU6OX2BlfWDdoKRmGZBRB5-j7rg_GeLNnBAuD2pnksrdFddRXn69-a8b9_tbTSnPBk/s1600/Bending+toolblog.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Simple metal rose arch" border="0" data-original-height="457" data-original-width="715" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyZY_RWPYp4NujuZn-RsKOJ2kCLpRueHiYGJEUN-7ejwhq1zc17XsSA1y1FAR0hy6cKawlq8cqveU6OX2BlfWDdoKRmGZBRB5-j7rg_GeLNnBAuD2pnksrdFddRXn69-a8b9_tbTSnPBk/s1600/Bending+toolblog.png" title="Bending the arch - first bend" /></a></div>
</div>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
In addition to the bending fixture, I also fabricated a bending key. I made this from an old piece of wrought iron bar. (see above and below left). </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBngVfm53qR0IS6kViC3S0YEdD8HiqN3sk-rrKnUJAtnGLkwRFAGe7DcCuAVqflJaNcc2a-WANRh7V5HAmQ6L6LPhGeAsB090cdQUwhMawS_hkNlimOzoPAQ2nRkQywSkCMQjX5WHCDUI/s1600/bending+vice.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Make a metal tudor rose arch" border="0" data-original-height="1077" data-original-width="916" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBngVfm53qR0IS6kViC3S0YEdD8HiqN3sk-rrKnUJAtnGLkwRFAGe7DcCuAVqflJaNcc2a-WANRh7V5HAmQ6L6LPhGeAsB090cdQUwhMawS_hkNlimOzoPAQ2nRkQywSkCMQjX5WHCDUI/s320/bending+vice.png" title="Bending the arch - second bend" width="272" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
The four lengths of bar were bent at one end (the apex) using the key and fixture.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
The other end (the downward leg) of each was bent with the length clamped in a bench vice. I did this because I had better leverage for this bend by using the mass of the work bench to hold the bar.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
I bent the first bar until I was happy with the overall look, i.e. for my Tudor Arch design, the rest were then bent to match. I found it was easy to get the feel for the rest after doing the initial length, so each only required minor 'tweaking' after I had compared them with the original.</div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9qVYjYP1Ru7TLLOYOhDZB2FGgQrUfThCo4NlVzLZawtZEyw5hT6pOg2VhH5rylPlnmxKep7OwBNpVgIRJsCQ9ID32WyvMvMn9qi93oiCZwvGV8ITaP4piyFCeewoSjUJStfIegSjV2to/s1600/IMG_0768blog.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Make an elegant rose arch" border="0" data-original-height="457" data-original-width="715" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9qVYjYP1Ru7TLLOYOhDZB2FGgQrUfThCo4NlVzLZawtZEyw5hT6pOg2VhH5rylPlnmxKep7OwBNpVgIRJsCQ9ID32WyvMvMn9qi93oiCZwvGV8ITaP4piyFCeewoSjUJStfIegSjV2to/s1600/IMG_0768blog.JPG" title="The tudor arch top components" /></a></div>
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Before welding the the four elements of the top of the arch together, a collar of metal (a jubilee clip of the appropriate diameter) was used to temporarily secure the joint prior to welding.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjViJzvJCb3CKZtjvgCPyY8S-Dtxg6xMwz_ChpBo7HDYEpIthcLFGWDDKGbauv45WMsxQ7IVm0hZFWB19Y1RxLCAn-P0AlHuicNKg1PiQMx6oayu0jvaxknEAmN4AzO6jUYD6OIaQ04a5g/s1600/IMG_0772blog.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="DIY metal rose arch" border="0" data-original-height="477" data-original-width="715" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjViJzvJCb3CKZtjvgCPyY8S-Dtxg6xMwz_ChpBo7HDYEpIthcLFGWDDKGbauv45WMsxQ7IVm0hZFWB19Y1RxLCAn-P0AlHuicNKg1PiQMx6oayu0jvaxknEAmN4AzO6jUYD6OIaQ04a5g/s1600/IMG_0772blog.JPG" title="Arch top ready for welding" /></a></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr_eRXa56RnJO0IJo8DSxxVVGkcqXsq8PIV4YfMkLmkI222GOHobnD4yzVoFzTYj3mhwqqJSzAqYVoR6UdyG2LPwXqXq1b8kQKbS4Ty10bfje7LQ5eE1Eack7dPLcR0wxUwHDS84f9wUc/s1600/IMG_0774.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Simple metal rose arch" border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr_eRXa56RnJO0IJo8DSxxVVGkcqXsq8PIV4YfMkLmkI222GOHobnD4yzVoFzTYj3mhwqqJSzAqYVoR6UdyG2LPwXqXq1b8kQKbS4Ty10bfje7LQ5eE1Eack7dPLcR0wxUwHDS84f9wUc/s320/IMG_0774.JPG" title="Arch top ready for welding" width="212" /></a></div>
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The downward legs of the Arch top hung over the sides of the workbench and I also supported the top with some metal blocks. This held everything securely, whilst I was welding.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvtnfsj8ktyUUlcUDl9asmejfm-66k6PLpEn8j0ghtM0eAFCPRFaLandIR3U8edVczH-_A7QkPPmEroYShAZ3Dsn5DzkaGBVvSVbv4DxeJO9L6Jhq1m02JLDvqx5-oiTEOFJQCxkcnHhQ/s1600/IMG_0778blog.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Low cost metal rose arch" border="0" data-original-height="477" data-original-width="715" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvtnfsj8ktyUUlcUDl9asmejfm-66k6PLpEn8j0ghtM0eAFCPRFaLandIR3U8edVczH-_A7QkPPmEroYShAZ3Dsn5DzkaGBVvSVbv4DxeJO9L6Jhq1m02JLDvqx5-oiTEOFJQCxkcnHhQ/s1600/IMG_0778blog.JPG" title="The welded arch top" /></a></div>
The finial was a composite, namely a fence rail end fleur de lis and a ball. I welded them together as the ball gave the fleur de lis more dramatic emphasis in the design.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicAXqPJR2EiIZwjffSXszLLu9MfMNH_6fWwO_EohOs1o4bEbql8y_-_wEusaqr-qQbUwWEE8bCkqNGu5ww2DZrBliq_l7nBjNmumQ-9m0JwPf18QogqmWGVJg-1r3d1oFO-QI-yRwh83E/s1600/IMG_0781blog.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Tudor shaped metal rose arch" border="0" data-original-height="563" data-original-width="715" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicAXqPJR2EiIZwjffSXszLLu9MfMNH_6fWwO_EohOs1o4bEbql8y_-_wEusaqr-qQbUwWEE8bCkqNGu5ww2DZrBliq_l7nBjNmumQ-9m0JwPf18QogqmWGVJg-1r3d1oFO-QI-yRwh83E/s1600/IMG_0781blog.JPG" title="Completed finial" /></a></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifNd4sttxMUM3RElSy5Abm_mX5MpxRlopPncR5ei88ARWLrK9Mql35feOVMQD6wPcAS95-WUN0z8Cikdp79elNqUcp2YGgYDjsugW28WYhIP_1irgLQHEgnMmGAi4Hu8nIQfo_aaYJeoN7ecOHSGb8EQK3j0XFYOd7nzlcVees8K_WOdh431sa3UscDDU/s1816/Thumbnail%20close%20up.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1344" data-original-width="1816" height="296" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifNd4sttxMUM3RElSy5Abm_mX5MpxRlopPncR5ei88ARWLrK9Mql35feOVMQD6wPcAS95-WUN0z8Cikdp79elNqUcp2YGgYDjsugW28WYhIP_1irgLQHEgnMmGAi4Hu8nIQfo_aaYJeoN7ecOHSGb8EQK3j0XFYOd7nzlcVees8K_WOdh431sa3UscDDU/w400-h296/Thumbnail%20close%20up.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br /><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">I then welded the completed finial to the top.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"> </span></h2>
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<span style="font-size: large;"> </span></h2>
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<span style="font-size: large;"> </span></h2>
<h2><br /></h2><h2>
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Putting it all Together</span></h2>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI2XTPahyD6ZEIEgpLKGHjhPliC1NCUqugDfpksJj566ngV751LSvn245XEmGBGSFFJN9d559j8WDXrEfXSPQPgmHSIEneHI8GejpAiyJxM5OlO4EJsaFDpHST7gcA5Pt8qJG-B4YvUuC1pe8B7IFlZrYsv4WvWyp-4KNBhZtrGAZtbBPAVJtmOgnF86I/s5184/IMG_1023.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="5184" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI2XTPahyD6ZEIEgpLKGHjhPliC1NCUqugDfpksJj566ngV751LSvn245XEmGBGSFFJN9d559j8WDXrEfXSPQPgmHSIEneHI8GejpAiyJxM5OlO4EJsaFDpHST7gcA5Pt8qJG-B4YvUuC1pe8B7IFlZrYsv4WvWyp-4KNBhZtrGAZtbBPAVJtmOgnF86I/w400-h266/IMG_1023.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div>The remaining four drilled pieces of angle were welded to the lower ends
of the arch top legs such that the holes were coincident with those on
the ladder section.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">On a stormy day, the arch has a wonderful Gothic look!<br />
<br /><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">
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<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
There will be a film coming shortly. Until next time and from a sunny day in Normandie,</div>
<br />
Cheers, Andy
<br />
<br />
© Andy Colley 2020<br />
<h2>
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Untreated Pallet Wood Garden/Beach/Picnic Table & Seat Set for $2</h2>
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Portable, elegant set
from pallet wood comprising two stools and a picnic table. The design can be made from just one untreated pallet. ...<b><a href="https://thegreenlever.blogspot.fr/2017/06/portable-untreated-pallet-wood-picnic.html#.WTsI8DclFj4" target="_blank">read more</a></b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9dDJo2Q98S_IYM6iXf89Y_i_VQqLVewPjyrXFH5LnjcitvozREAyhRSEavP-aB-49jR8sEqc_loBnL9bB3S9Z6ISZ6YzOX_8a_lpcwOBEgTR7VWCHtSsliLP73ERTVv1ZSNtpAjdF2Iw/s1600/IMG_4164.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9dDJo2Q98S_IYM6iXf89Y_i_VQqLVewPjyrXFH5LnjcitvozREAyhRSEavP-aB-49jR8sEqc_loBnL9bB3S9Z6ISZ6YzOX_8a_lpcwOBEgTR7VWCHtSsliLP73ERTVv1ZSNtpAjdF2Iw/s1600/IMG_4164.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
<h2>
<b>Make Your Own Indoor Trellis Planter Part 1 -The Base</b></h2>
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Many people complain that pallet wood isn't a suitable material for use in anything but rough and ready...<b><a href="http://thegreenlever.blogspot.fr/2013/01/make-your-own-indoor-trellis-planter_11.html#.VDL0sdZDt0w">read more</a>
</b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwf_iHhKTvH-HNcmzFIrd6wWviBGqN-pqJoKWum5AqM5c5tZa0MIFutPGBmWQWHr3zRJJLTVae7Yzit0o6aWN8590nou_TUKfsG1n2I-WJuUQnh93_eeDrI2yu1amqBcIJsmYTfsUgMMo/s1600/IMG_4165.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwf_iHhKTvH-HNcmzFIrd6wWviBGqN-pqJoKWum5AqM5c5tZa0MIFutPGBmWQWHr3zRJJLTVae7Yzit0o6aWN8590nou_TUKfsG1n2I-WJuUQnh93_eeDrI2yu1amqBcIJsmYTfsUgMMo/s1600/IMG_4165.JPG" width="200" /></a></h2>
<h2>
<b>Make Your Own Indoor Trellis Planter-Part 2 -The Trellis</b></h2>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyUhRCqxFw24WfxkhovAuuJi0R_aWtlXndb_zhS8aFjLiwojx86nmxqh8zaS_0nz5UIoA9iiKVQu1K8PkzWrrtMTNt0ycvvA2M-kE0spEtBWUOdMieVojD1n9lAfBm_Mp9teSWRcLmrF4/s1600/IMG_8925BLOG.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyUhRCqxFw24WfxkhovAuuJi0R_aWtlXndb_zhS8aFjLiwojx86nmxqh8zaS_0nz5UIoA9iiKVQu1K8PkzWrrtMTNt0ycvvA2M-kE0spEtBWUOdMieVojD1n9lAfBm_Mp9teSWRcLmrF4/s200/IMG_8925BLOG.JPG" width="200" /></a>The
trellis back to the planter provides a structure up which climbing
plants could grow and provide us with more space for growing food...<b><a href="http://thegreenlever.blogspot.fr/2013/01/make-your-own-indoor-trellis-planter.html#.VDPIqNZDt0w">read more</a></b><br />
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<h2 class="post-title entry-title">
Simple and Elegant Hanging Wall Planter from Orange Box and Pallet Wood
</h2>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
These planters are very easy to make with hand tools, look stylish, can
be finished with earth pigments to suit your colour scheme and despite
their delicate appearance are robust and long lasting....<b><a href="https://thegreenlever.blogspot.fr/2017/08/simple-and-elegant-hanging-wall-planter.html#.WYMOzjclFj4" target="_blank">read more</a></b></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZMgqVTWoVMMlh0fQRiXeQnB1r74XB0KBtO7MX19LQkG43A4XY_d31KiArksxHP3LTARCXmRw1BGNnqP7oO0vpeOw0ZFrG--HnPJg41dQgS-pXUyE7X8MBpl43L3uGmZ2wLTSkiVwPySVj4fG5hK5-sV_FZ0WxKFcm7Ehr0Wk_sXCvsfor3qQl3JL3SBQ/s6000/IMG_1030aaacrop.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5987" data-original-width="6000" height="319" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZMgqVTWoVMMlh0fQRiXeQnB1r74XB0KBtO7MX19LQkG43A4XY_d31KiArksxHP3LTARCXmRw1BGNnqP7oO0vpeOw0ZFrG--HnPJg41dQgS-pXUyE7X8MBpl43L3uGmZ2wLTSkiVwPySVj4fG5hK5-sV_FZ0WxKFcm7Ehr0Wk_sXCvsfor3qQl3JL3SBQ/s320/IMG_1030aaacrop.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />The Green Leverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01335293795269368752noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3199850434720533796.post-25355315952157639682020-08-17T15:23:00.002+02:002020-09-05T19:43:10.451+02:00LED Telescope Tripod Lights from Scrap<h2 style="text-align: left;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9ScvIaKaFyIRqrDemdK9Fwvu0gVZRUFv91whs3pQDi0eEaS5J_Am6KtSMSlxK2zrhYFougoKseNHDYE34FeKkTTy0ikE6Rl6rcQOfs-z8pYI9hmPOBc9VGvwJQ_X8Xxy3-6E4GKirWR8/s1600/IMG_1232blog.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Make your own tripod lights from scrap" border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9ScvIaKaFyIRqrDemdK9Fwvu0gVZRUFv91whs3pQDi0eEaS5J_Am6KtSMSlxK2zrhYFougoKseNHDYE34FeKkTTy0ikE6Rl6rcQOfs-z8pYI9hmPOBc9VGvwJQ_X8Xxy3-6E4GKirWR8/s640/IMG_1232blog.JPG" title="DIY telescope tripod lights in action" width="426" /></a></div>
As an enthusiastic amateur astronomer I love sharing the views of the night sky through my telescope. At this time of year we have a lot of people on summer vacation staying at the gîte in our farm lane. Enthusiasm is infectious and I often have the opportunity to show them the major objects of interest (moon, planets, galaxies etc.). I have an old military (U.S. Army) wooden tripod that came with the telescope when I bought it second-hand many years ago. It is painted dark green, is difficult therefore to see, is extremely well-built and heavy and if a child were to trip or stub a toe on it, would spoil what for many is first light.<br />
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In addition, there would be a risk of an adult misaligning the telescope or even knocking it over. In order to avoid these scenarios, I decided that I needed a set of red lights to pinpoint each foot effectively.<br />
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<h2 style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: large;">Why Red?</span></h2>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYltiPfK23Q_pRdR8MZrNx5WDWwkWt5vi2Qqc2XGBLD_LPXvah4ZEnszcZOfeMcsdvMgn-hGOnS7NDZZ_5YGGQXFiHZNdHrwZNnxx7aqxuhq68_OD9wKvPFFnGHXC3BcJPmfrRmr9OScI/s1600/IMG_8702blog.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Re-use old leds for astronomy" border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="475" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYltiPfK23Q_pRdR8MZrNx5WDWwkWt5vi2Qqc2XGBLD_LPXvah4ZEnszcZOfeMcsdvMgn-hGOnS7NDZZ_5YGGQXFiHZNdHrwZNnxx7aqxuhq68_OD9wKvPFFnGHXC3BcJPmfrRmr9OScI/s640/IMG_8702blog.JPG" title="The Milky Way" width="715" /></a></div>
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Simply put red light helps with maintaining scotopic aka night vision. <br />
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The eye is very good at adapting to low levels of light aka dark adaption and it does this is two ways:</div>
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<li>Physically - dilation of the pupil - the iris opens quickly to let more light in.</li>
<li>Chemically - rhodopsin increase - when in the dark the rods and cones build up a pigment, which is responsible for increasing the sensitivity of our eyes thus adapting them to the darkness. </li>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw6ybsBVdn9JTMxtSSB21QneoZheN1lMBO59gjndVEp7tzuCze14G5pFrD_OVnwdOYzQABlLyi5WP_EF_sPdupfm6ybJT212cLP8OQQMx5blOzTmXlr8RbdjxODRkyruF72Lc2iw5pkcE/s2048/IMG_1118.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="LED aids for astronomy" border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1365" height="407" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw6ybsBVdn9JTMxtSSB21QneoZheN1lMBO59gjndVEp7tzuCze14G5pFrD_OVnwdOYzQABlLyi5WP_EF_sPdupfm6ybJT212cLP8OQQMx5blOzTmXlr8RbdjxODRkyruF72Lc2iw5pkcE/w274-h410/IMG_1118.JPG" title="Telescope on site" width="273" /></a>Your retina detects light through cells known as rods and cones. There are three types of cones sensitive to wavelengths, these detect colors: red, green and blue. Rods are just of one type, are more numerous than cones and are much more sensitive to light but unable to give us information about color.<br />
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Cones become dark adapted after a few minutes but rods can take over half an hour. </div>
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If a bright light is shone on the eyes, then both rods and cones lose their dark adapted nature and will need a rhodopsin 'reset' to enable them to regain this ability. That is of little matter to the cones but a major disruption to the rods and thus a long interruption in our viewing time.</div>
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Cones are of major use in daylight but rods become more sensitive as the light fades to show us the night sky in all its beauty.<br />
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Rods are most sensitive at around 500 nanometers, which is in the green to cyan range of the spectrum. Since rods are less sensitive to red light (below 650nm) you can use a red light source to view things without ruining your night vision by 'over-exposing' the rods.<br />
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<h2>
<span style="font-size: large;">Dead Fairy Lights Repurposed</span></h2>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrjWb4q66xjU3J46gBkvHwurV4avLwK4OYrsuEdmfXCkeD8GccReLEdpurJMehBgu9Ps2bCemZRXMwTXMQnzY1qFMsc14qU8Rf8QHUfZbF-gr6UEUm0vwyrs1p4Dse1krUizP6WQHhpdY/s1600/IMG_1183blog.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Re-using LEDs" border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="477" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrjWb4q66xjU3J46gBkvHwurV4avLwK4OYrsuEdmfXCkeD8GccReLEdpurJMehBgu9Ps2bCemZRXMwTXMQnzY1qFMsc14qU8Rf8QHUfZbF-gr6UEUm0vwyrs1p4Dse1krUizP6WQHhpdY/s640/IMG_1183blog.JPG" title="Checking the garland" width="715" /></a></div>
There is nothing so sorry looking as a garland of Fairy lights with some of the bulbs diminished or dead. You feel you can't throw them away as some of the lamps are burning bravely but then if you trim a tree in Winter or put them up in the garden in the Summer, they look so pathetically bare. Well the great news is you can use them individually. I've recycled them before and will continue to give these jolly little twinkling lights a second chance. I find that the fault in the lights usually occurs in a single lamp or as in the above case in one of the wires, rendering half the garland dimmed for good. The lights here are battery powered LEDs, which make them ideal for upcycling to tripod lights, as they have both the required battery pack and switch.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZXefeRtqK3V59Kgtltw4EU2z0096PxO49RIDYgeQQ64oTn677R6vmJHk-4UaJUl_EQtX7h9zPQpX-a96EOPhi1dMXRU-X6hutHIS06L5A363jcN1xBUVBAgS_IFKzB46JHCH_iCbzolw/s1600/IMG_1186blog.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Scrap leds re-purposed" border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="477" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZXefeRtqK3V59Kgtltw4EU2z0096PxO49RIDYgeQQ64oTn677R6vmJHk-4UaJUl_EQtX7h9zPQpX-a96EOPhi1dMXRU-X6hutHIS06L5A363jcN1xBUVBAgS_IFKzB46JHCH_iCbzolw/s640/IMG_1186blog.JPG" title="Finding the red LEDs" width="715" /></a></div>
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The first thing I did was to locate the lights of the correct colour. The garland had four colours blue, green, red and yellow and as you can see only the first two were working. So, to find the red lights I cut the pairs of wires midway leading into and out of the non-working LEDs. I removed approximately ¼"of insulation from the pair of wires going into the LED from one side of the garland and conected them with crocodile clips to the similarly stripped wires coming from the battery pack. Turning it on the colour of the lamp can be clearly seen.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmi6yuSTaZTdFgnehyEWY5zD02AMIlB_hNB04-tGvFYJVhwiSaDd_EvWSrXYUOUdtm6pt3SEYDxEpB1lBCz3Jfgj_9FLd68e7k8jGHo_kgpEUQJYNazk9dOfSyby1BH5QaawFPjoiIpPc/s1600/IMG_1191blog.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Making telescope tripod lights from scrap" border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="477" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmi6yuSTaZTdFgnehyEWY5zD02AMIlB_hNB04-tGvFYJVhwiSaDd_EvWSrXYUOUdtm6pt3SEYDxEpB1lBCz3Jfgj_9FLd68e7k8jGHo_kgpEUQJYNazk9dOfSyby1BH5QaawFPjoiIpPc/s640/IMG_1191blog.JPG" title="The three red leds ready for connection" width="715" /></a></div>
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Each red lamp found that way was marked with red insulation tape to keep it identifiable. I cut off the other two wires leading from the LED as they are not needed. Once I had my three red LEDs prepared I then went onto the next step, that of connecting them to the battery pack.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBwEFHugdmruD_BNV42uJTZZC2ReeBVZVe3hDYBu7x1LphFzJu5p_rtLliiOVZ45qZ36t15gvnJFwsIwrM9kroi7LPa2qLy2GCaLliN7V6lD8rTSVn1xFyWHHZpwEBlBCPX3fOMaGEceE/s1600/IMG_1210blog.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Safer observational astronomy" border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBwEFHugdmruD_BNV42uJTZZC2ReeBVZVe3hDYBu7x1LphFzJu5p_rtLliiOVZ45qZ36t15gvnJFwsIwrM9kroi7LPa2qLy2GCaLliN7V6lD8rTSVn1xFyWHHZpwEBlBCPX3fOMaGEceE/s200/IMG_1210blog.JPG" title="Battery pack in position" width="133" /></a></div>
The battery pack was to be hung from a hook underneath the top plate of the tripod and connecting wires to each of the LEDs would go down each leg to the LEDs at the feet.<br />
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Left: Shows the pack in position at the end of the project.<br />
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<h2>
<span style="font-size: large;">Recuperated Flex Upcycled</span></h2>
I'd been storing a length of two core flex from a power tool that had malfunctioned for the last time and decided to use this. It was of sufficient length to be cut into three equal lengths to run the length of each leg from the feet to the battery pack. They were cut as to allow for the adjustment of the legs on uneven ground and to adjust the working height of the telescope when observing objects nearer the celestial pole.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiexo3mhp31xYJM07hEYmsUjjhVBC-SeyZsSQ87Bi2Zk6avFJKGF8Y5pnf-2CGdj7aVABvaByIuXv_Sv3c9BuAdu8BI8aSV4wEcZ5NtsWXPBswWAqTxSvyxHJidw9jcXL2Y7KA9Nj609AE/s1600/Multi+shot+1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Low cost LED tripod lights" border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="477" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiexo3mhp31xYJM07hEYmsUjjhVBC-SeyZsSQ87Bi2Zk6avFJKGF8Y5pnf-2CGdj7aVABvaByIuXv_Sv3c9BuAdu8BI8aSV4wEcZ5NtsWXPBswWAqTxSvyxHJidw9jcXL2Y7KA9Nj609AE/s640/Multi+shot+1.JPG" title="Joining the flexes" width="715" /></a></div>
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Each end of the flex had its outer sheath removed to expose 1" - 2" of the wires within which were then stripped of the first ½" of insulation.<br />
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<h2>
<span style="font-size: large;">Putting it All Together</span></h2>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwDMHeoTQ2FFIgIVS21MgS2Py6ZZvw2iVtH9qstuFUcBiLrwqE2vRFLMSdADoQH559o7_GYsZI8dnR7cifhOi-keddPG0tZbGF6kKWyMC0qscN0F7oL3ST6rHWiTw8EIamycdAQUGRCLQ/s1600/IMG_1201blog.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Making telescope tripod lights for nothing" border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="477" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwDMHeoTQ2FFIgIVS21MgS2Py6ZZvw2iVtH9qstuFUcBiLrwqE2vRFLMSdADoQH559o7_GYsZI8dnR7cifhOi-keddPG0tZbGF6kKWyMC0qscN0F7oL3ST6rHWiTw8EIamycdAQUGRCLQ/s640/IMG_1201blog.JPG" title="Connecting the LEDs" width="715" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi7ZdnNx9BvOJTXcya0eDp9YHCiDanm3RwZ_Q7VW_rdj98DJ70VEfAQGPjqnNM_2RVIMDG0u-I0ZGDqaJqyQvhg3oqkaCPnGKSmYsK0KJYgkRh3Fz3xQV60lmjNCftxAuoKuT_t6Wguq4/s1600/IMG_1197blog.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Re-using red leds from a holiday garland" border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1371" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi7ZdnNx9BvOJTXcya0eDp9YHCiDanm3RwZ_Q7VW_rdj98DJ70VEfAQGPjqnNM_2RVIMDG0u-I0ZGDqaJqyQvhg3oqkaCPnGKSmYsK0KJYgkRh3Fz3xQV60lmjNCftxAuoKuT_t6Wguq4/s200/IMG_1197blog.JPG" title="Flex connections ready to go into connecting block" width="171" /></a></div>
The LEDs were to be connected in parallel to the power supply.<br />
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Firstly I soldered each LED to its respective length of flex.<br />
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At the other end, I twisted together the wires of each flex connected to one side of each LED and then twisted together the other three wires connected to the other side of each LED.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm0OSTFYghh1ISULFW2yQzARQYJv4Pd8AWIctFm0r8WVxe-v446gafeqOuF-pkEiDNwZ3v9XT1V5QrRZbgFICNZV6d9K3Ik_3qXmRMKqrcg11StSrrwlXFUKXnhlDxmdwWi0Wqbd5DXCU/s1600/IMG_1205BLOG.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Simple and cheap tripod lights" border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="477" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm0OSTFYghh1ISULFW2yQzARQYJv4Pd8AWIctFm0r8WVxe-v446gafeqOuF-pkEiDNwZ3v9XT1V5QrRZbgFICNZV6d9K3Ik_3qXmRMKqrcg11StSrrwlXFUKXnhlDxmdwWi0Wqbd5DXCU/s640/IMG_1205BLOG.JPG" title="Checking the connections" width="715" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
I made a quick check that all my soldered connections were good by temporarily connecting the battery pack to the two connection of the twisted together flex ensuring that the soldered connections did not come in contact with each other. Three lit up lamps meant success so I immediately turned off the power and wrapped each soldiered joint in insulating tape.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuOWDaWw56uJUu0_tNe2eKgP5FaB4m-HDYWF2aKzbQKf6BsRqumCFZXUi6CrRiPcJHHOjq_8hjqdmhhVkQyZWzABnSu1d7tJSv-F_oTpRQ_t0oawSxhyphenhyphenDtkJV_SKKWJtS1230YK5zGEEE/s1600/IMG_1207blog.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Red LEDs for astronomy" border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="477" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuOWDaWw56uJUu0_tNe2eKgP5FaB4m-HDYWF2aKzbQKf6BsRqumCFZXUi6CrRiPcJHHOjq_8hjqdmhhVkQyZWzABnSu1d7tJSv-F_oTpRQ_t0oawSxhyphenhyphenDtkJV_SKKWJtS1230YK5zGEEE/s640/IMG_1207blog.JPG" title="LEDs in position" width="715" /></a></div>
<br />
The LEDs and flex could now be put into place on the tripod legs. I secured them in position with cable ties, ensuring that there was a loop left in each flex to allow for leg length adjustment.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqLee71Y0cOCoPkEfCroE0c2InqeAfdjFOJbmEnbio5JhFlHu3sdpk_5uFicf8h6O9VlsJv1Ans41t3s0pkGXsjcfyQRDnfJez6GjtqIraMwi0HD45RYlhOMjhNNwzRTEmYx90CPOkmvU/s1600/IMG_1212blog.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Tripod lights for astronomy" border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="477" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqLee71Y0cOCoPkEfCroE0c2InqeAfdjFOJbmEnbio5JhFlHu3sdpk_5uFicf8h6O9VlsJv1Ans41t3s0pkGXsjcfyQRDnfJez6GjtqIraMwi0HD45RYlhOMjhNNwzRTEmYx90CPOkmvU/s640/IMG_1212blog.JPG" title="The tripod" width="715" /></a></div>
<br />
A small electrical connecting block was used to connect the other ends of the flex to the battery pack.<br />
<br />
<h2>
<span style="font-size: large;">Lighting Ceremony</span> </h2>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgISXSY-wf9vtXZq56z9EHhZ38J0UUFIpPCd4T3CsKxJCmV_MQfmPCL5mlDOshj-tOuthDLEX87fWKwp6ZoeR0-7072efmiSNeVJ9SEtAPVhhyphenhyphenTm5h4WSZv2l4xAn18SDVOt3eJ2DI_gvE/s1600/IMG_1241blog.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Making your own tripod lights" border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgISXSY-wf9vtXZq56z9EHhZ38J0UUFIpPCd4T3CsKxJCmV_MQfmPCL5mlDOshj-tOuthDLEX87fWKwp6ZoeR0-7072efmiSNeVJ9SEtAPVhhyphenhyphenTm5h4WSZv2l4xAn18SDVOt3eJ2DI_gvE/s400/IMG_1241blog.JPG" title="Red LEDs in action" width="266" /></a></div>
The arrangement worked perfectly, at night the feet of the tripod were clearly visible without any obvious adverse effect on my night-adapted eyes.<br />
<br />
Because of the festive origin of the lights, the battery pack had eight functions relating to the garland's display. So not only can the tripod have permanent illumination but also a twinkling on/off sequence which seems to draw even more attention to the feet. The 'slow fade', 'sequential' and 'fast fade' though, I felt were not as effective for the new role of the LEDs!<br />
<br />
If
you have enjoyed this article and found it interesting then share it
with your friends on social media or suchlike. Please also feel free to
ask questions and or make comments and if you found this helpful and would like to support this site you can always <a href="https://ko-fi.com/X8X01EDNU" target="_blank"><img alt="Buy Me a Coffee at ko-fi.com" border="0" height="36" src="https://az743702.vo.msecnd.net/cdn/kofi3.png?v=2" style="border: 0px; height: 36px;" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
There will be a film coming shortly. Until next time and from a sunny day in Normandie,</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
Dark Skies!<br />
<br />
Cheers, Andy
<br />
<br />
© Andy Colley 2020<br />
<h2>
</h2>
<h2>
RELATED ARTICLES</h2>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ9_EXQKsQnzAbsqRDqfMSgWSi9Xj5Lu4uxrHf9C3clWiWQY4u66f0kgMal0vGGsfElBosEl-_5jtQIjlnIPp2Tl-W30-njqDPLg1jmARqzbuhU2XC-xoAoAJ0kALOmiVWbABtLyywxbE/s1600/IMG_4097blog.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ9_EXQKsQnzAbsqRDqfMSgWSi9Xj5Lu4uxrHf9C3clWiWQY4u66f0kgMal0vGGsfElBosEl-_5jtQIjlnIPp2Tl-W30-njqDPLg1jmARqzbuhU2XC-xoAoAJ0kALOmiVWbABtLyywxbE/s200/IMG_4097blog.JPG" width="200" /></a>Binocular Collimation Quick and Easy Method without Prism Adjustment </h2>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
I was initially put off from correcting an optical fault in an old pair
of Porro prism binoculars because all I had seen or read online involved
prism adjustment...<b><a href="http://thegreenlever.blogspot.fr/2016/08/binocular-collimation-quick-and-easy.html#.V7r9gNGli1E" target="_blank">read more</a></b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_nTDqBkyy9fC0SwkBXK7D_u_DQpSzHzyn1VA_bPcuSi2iLBELYye1Gya6t4Qs-Q1HbVcROm6XErdYJBsPsEkGAqnwp-wCZ4gvnSRDUKzUc6pML8FP2AyLEuiPIQWx4WGmJ7l55xOedW8/s1600/IMG_6487.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_nTDqBkyy9fC0SwkBXK7D_u_DQpSzHzyn1VA_bPcuSi2iLBELYye1Gya6t4Qs-Q1HbVcROm6XErdYJBsPsEkGAqnwp-wCZ4gvnSRDUKzUc6pML8FP2AyLEuiPIQWx4WGmJ7l55xOedW8/s200/IMG_6487.JPG" width="200" /></a>Home-Made Locking Solar Filter</h2>
How
to make a robust, lockable solar filter for your telescope from
repurposed materials and purchased AstroSolar film. This will allow you
to enter the amazing world of solar astronomy...<b><a href="https://thegreenlever.blogspot.fr/2017/01/diy-locking-solar-filter-for-telescope.html#.WI386Gf1G1E" target="_blank">read more</a></b><br />
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</h2>
<h2 class="post-title entry-title" style="text-align: justify;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh4lze9hAGC2YtsmaBXv1YjTm9H7d2EC2LMk2ATEB-c3zNPecBZN4kP6PXs0lZA8uj8ITVVTTV-4-n3pZ9nISpUWdaU9UTIjVB-Ehg_tJUmBWOuwRMrpxAZT4NyQKQMUig1gLXiVzVhyo/s1600/P1120627crop2.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="489" data-original-width="715" height="136" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh4lze9hAGC2YtsmaBXv1YjTm9H7d2EC2LMk2ATEB-c3zNPecBZN4kP6PXs0lZA8uj8ITVVTTV-4-n3pZ9nISpUWdaU9UTIjVB-Ehg_tJUmBWOuwRMrpxAZT4NyQKQMUig1gLXiVzVhyo/s200/P1120627crop2.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
How to make a solar finderscope from scrap</h2>
<br />
It was whilst I was making the solar filter for my telescope that I
seriously started to think about how I was to find the object of study
in the eyepiece....<b><a href="https://thegreenlever.blogspot.com/2017/07/home-made-solar-finderscope.html#.X1PNoXcv6V4" target="_blank">read more</a></b><br />
<br />
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</h2>
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</h2>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBXKKQYdhYz33hNtKCZ1AQfRJqkRx4xJsz8JKl_ltDsvhXNJoeojpj9iQW6ldVYH8b3rwHttBhBbh1CytH01uwxogi2wJ-JSeiK0_irIkEELkPwPaCL58JVj22fxA6179H3fptp88y4tM/s1600/IMG_4197BLOG.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBXKKQYdhYz33hNtKCZ1AQfRJqkRx4xJsz8JKl_ltDsvhXNJoeojpj9iQW6ldVYH8b3rwHttBhBbh1CytH01uwxogi2wJ-JSeiK0_irIkEELkPwPaCL58JVj22fxA6179H3fptp88y4tM/s200/IMG_4197BLOG.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
<h2 class="post-title entry-title" style="text-align: justify;">
World War 1940s Binoculars - Perfect for Astronomy & Birdwatching</h2>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Despite their rough and ready appearance, WWII Binocular optics were
actually manufactured to a very high standard. The companies who made
them saved on the casings and strappings but were required by the Armed
Forces to furnish precision....<b><a href="https://thegreenlever.blogspot.fr/2018/08/world-war-1940s-binoculars-perfect-for.html#.W3HRKhqYOkA">read more</a></b><br />
<h2>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbxOh_nDiNRmjLaHfUJ2KF_uN_zCpIU3eiLCzxHHspKOtqJbyuhL51lJqoaMJ-mNCAJPDc9o-vwpUak5jpG59E_2lwIm7K90fZaTxNTZCOJTx8g1Vw1XKcMvcv3JjfwZiYfrapTcNAZrk/s1600/Screenshot+from+MVI_4220.MOV+-+1.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1280" height="112" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbxOh_nDiNRmjLaHfUJ2KF_uN_zCpIU3eiLCzxHHspKOtqJbyuhL51lJqoaMJ-mNCAJPDc9o-vwpUak5jpG59E_2lwIm7K90fZaTxNTZCOJTx8g1Vw1XKcMvcv3JjfwZiYfrapTcNAZrk/s200/Screenshot+from+MVI_4220.MOV+-+1.png" width="200" /></a>
Collimating World War 2 Binoculars</h2>
Unlike
the more modern pair I collimated, the objective
lenses on these could not be easily rotated in their respective cells. I
was thus faced with the possibility that I would have to
resort to prism adjustment and this I was loathe to do! It was at this...<b><a href="https://thegreenlever.blogspot.com/2018/08/collimating-ww2-binoculars-cautionary.html#.W3r4-BqYOkA" target="_blank">read more</a></b><br />
<h2 class="post-title entry-title" style="text-align: justify;">
</h2>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg12TXIo7YeSziMLsUNbYxdh8e3J_CcJNyfkT1P__KwzwDNoypKiRjr-rich87APefDLRmwQPx8TbF0DgUqEYLdId_2FngiC0SB89aOkV4uf1PRupmxr2yEIWSJZplOwS1qeA9PkAYHJiY/s1600/IMG_5775ablog.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="132" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg12TXIo7YeSziMLsUNbYxdh8e3J_CcJNyfkT1P__KwzwDNoypKiRjr-rich87APefDLRmwQPx8TbF0DgUqEYLdId_2FngiC0SB89aOkV4uf1PRupmxr2yEIWSJZplOwS1qeA9PkAYHJiY/s200/IMG_5775ablog.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
<h2 style="text-align: justify;">
Table Top Binocular Collimation Part 1 Materials & Fabrication</h2>
</div>
</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Following
on from my previous collimation experiment, I decided that in the
Winter it would be much better to be indoors! However, this was quite a
challenge on many levels...<b><a href="https://thegreenlever.blogspot.com/2018/11/diy-table-top-binocular-collimator.html#.W_a5qNJG2kA" target="_blank">read more</a></b><br />
<h2 class="post-title entry-title" style="text-align: justify;">
</h2>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<h2 style="text-align: justify;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_Tt15OVDtydWV6FoM6_0mCo_7FG_eNrJXyj7C-Ube69CPu7yercqXkyfmPqK3mPQoaAVGDz0iEnTxPIpIHdRDSn1NnFJeSA4GMGJ1JYeNnV3BcskIWaE-Y6lozraTJL0qj9fbM5aRGsA/s1600/IMG_5795blog.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_Tt15OVDtydWV6FoM6_0mCo_7FG_eNrJXyj7C-Ube69CPu7yercqXkyfmPqK3mPQoaAVGDz0iEnTxPIpIHdRDSn1NnFJeSA4GMGJ1JYeNnV3BcskIWaE-Y6lozraTJL0qj9fbM5aRGsA/s200/IMG_5795blog.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
Table Top Binocular Collimation Part 2 Modifications</h2>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
I observed that true
to the laws of physics, once the collimator lens was set at a distance
from the cross wire reticle equivalent to the lens’ focal length and the
light was turned on, the image of the wires were in focus in the
binocular eyepiece...BUT...<b><a href="https://thegreenlever.blogspot.com/2018/11/diy-table-top-binocular-collimator_59.html#.W_a_PtJG2kA" target="_blank">read more</a></b><br />
<h2 class="post-title entry-title" style="text-align: justify;">
</h2>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihZBAUMg72buDD4kHbAI2zxvBwKtsJAytlDisCRjm6rFHBaH8_d3vhyphenhyphenIRRKiZzCEWxQWQv-kCUjH9f4LhgnPc9wXzUgiOzTRwLmkiXQzeawvK7-TmE8gAwjZ8lfSFah8UHRDvoz54yL9g/s1600/IMG_5785blog.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihZBAUMg72buDD4kHbAI2zxvBwKtsJAytlDisCRjm6rFHBaH8_d3vhyphenhyphenIRRKiZzCEWxQWQv-kCUjH9f4LhgnPc9wXzUgiOzTRwLmkiXQzeawvK7-TmE8gAwjZ8lfSFah8UHRDvoz54yL9g/s200/IMG_5785blog.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
Table Top Binocular Collimation Part 3 The Experiment</h2>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Following
on from my previous collimation experiment, I decided that in the
Winter it would be much better to be indoors! However, this was quite a
challenge on many levels...<b><a href="https://thegreenlever.blogspot.com/2018/11/diy-table-top-binocular-collimator_22.html#.W_bBC9JG2kA" target="_blank">read more</a></b></div>
</div>
</div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />The Green Leverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01335293795269368752noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3199850434720533796.post-21471462455134947022020-07-07T16:07:00.000+02:002020-09-04T15:13:57.650+02:00How to make an artistic 'J' Rocket from scrap - Rooster/Cockerel Rocket<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNmSVuRlcEhAwYm2roDwShCpwc3k61886s99LS6PoE_IPiTMJGt-a5WdSeJMaWuNdYJ0sjCelxgAZEsOn_1syW5-MSRt82qNq4GPQwdF_Qe-4oRHHIhrnWuS0nh5nWS-tBkGYoB91OoRo/s1600/IMG_0940blog.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Rocket stove fabrication" border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="477" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNmSVuRlcEhAwYm2roDwShCpwc3k61886s99LS6PoE_IPiTMJGt-a5WdSeJMaWuNdYJ0sjCelxgAZEsOn_1syW5-MSRt82qNq4GPQwdF_Qe-4oRHHIhrnWuS0nh5nWS-tBkGYoB91OoRo/s640/IMG_0940blog.JPG" title="Face to face with the rooster" width="715" /></a><br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Spike our Gold, Black-laced, bearded and crested Polish Frizzle, to give him his complete title, faces up to his metal, fire-breathing friend. Whereas, (below) the rest of the flock see this new member as an additional source of heat to the sun. Not sure about Rooster Rocket as a source of vitamin D₃ though - tea and coffee, yes. </div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5Nraj_cI9XCOFJWB6fgEF3z6et9uobne7ZcKlgEy5HIUNBt67VzGC6KAecBQmPUa-4ixybokC_qOibGrgoP8XlaWwMjOpYWhQLjO-K0Ulau68Pw0qt2kskEPx1Oris4J9CJcHpWD7-5M/s1600/IMG_0962blog.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Make an artistic rocket stove" border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="477" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5Nraj_cI9XCOFJWB6fgEF3z6et9uobne7ZcKlgEy5HIUNBt67VzGC6KAecBQmPUa-4ixybokC_qOibGrgoP8XlaWwMjOpYWhQLjO-K0Ulau68Pw0qt2kskEPx1Oris4J9CJcHpWD7-5M/s640/IMG_0962blog.JPG" title="Rooster Rocket & Friends" width="715" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<h2 style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;">Improving our Coffee Making</span></h2>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT7bjhXgUFXHiVqBBw4kU8C2Ge6XIDtP3leysh3DKjSjJyY4i0YVHcmHfkBTWJby4m33ZKop6UW0_EykDJerPkc2nHV9Fook6YkJjplsMJmlytsFOvmKhz2K8QCfYbol-FR8ECCKqorUU/s1600/P1010077.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="How to make a rocket stove" border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="536" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT7bjhXgUFXHiVqBBw4kU8C2Ge6XIDtP3leysh3DKjSjJyY4i0YVHcmHfkBTWJby4m33ZKop6UW0_EykDJerPkc2nHV9Fook6YkJjplsMJmlytsFOvmKhz2K8QCfYbol-FR8ECCKqorUU/s640/P1010077.JPG" title="Original stove in action" width="715" /></a> </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjClk_AJh6p1diVRT9rblznISMORVZKpCToq35JhiTM1lfG4XJJY9B1aQ-e8gen9_bDWhsMuVZilaK0FRtvnCgiP7D4sJgybv4Fapv7ElMRzXiL95sfXGDca3gOpOetDGAmFQkBNrVhP1o/s1600/P1010079.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Making a rocket stove from scrap" border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjClk_AJh6p1diVRT9rblznISMORVZKpCToq35JhiTM1lfG4XJJY9B1aQ-e8gen9_bDWhsMuVZilaK0FRtvnCgiP7D4sJgybv4Fapv7ElMRzXiL95sfXGDca3gOpOetDGAmFQkBNrVhP1o/s400/P1010079.JPG" title="Coffee time old rocket" width="300" /></a>8 years ago I made a rocket stove for using whilst working in the garden and also to avoid having to light our wood cooker just to make a coffee. The burn tube and chimney were fabricated from some scrap mild steel pipe 4" in (102mm) diameter and this was installed in an empty steel cooking oil drum donated by a caterer at an Autumn fair. I insulated the pipe by packing wood ash around it and made a burn shelf from some scrap mild steel sheet on which the fuel would sit.</div>
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The results were encouraging in that water could be brought to the boil in around 10 minutes. The fire had to be continuously monitored as the fuel needed to be fed into the burn area. The combustion was smoke free when properly tended and the consumption of twigs was low.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVenmU9qBOhaO5G9Rj6zbmqlotSSY-RlEn2tWnvuBMa23c7UV8AaaicFG2gNRtjuqJ8gxNTJ5XxQMRk602IT8fcV5T-eUyQ110cPnhl9Clp4kpM_nyzT9lsnKogGfzdI5TN6blmxWAt3g/s1600/P1010078.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Home made rocket stove" border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="536" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVenmU9qBOhaO5G9Rj6zbmqlotSSY-RlEn2tWnvuBMa23c7UV8AaaicFG2gNRtjuqJ8gxNTJ5XxQMRk602IT8fcV5T-eUyQ110cPnhl9Clp4kpM_nyzT9lsnKogGfzdI5TN6blmxWAt3g/s640/P1010078.JPG" title="Original stove in operation" width="715" /></a> </div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">L to J</span></h2>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6lme425mrq1AZHCzDB45N8ypH0YNysz4MBe85YfE3gOiLfJ0y0v0m9KgcEktWFYe7V96nQfSoAzV-4SFAqtTxpYtdF9Q9C-i0a_e2MnaxrUHsM-7jSQvjv9mFgySr57WhkcDGrL7OKZI/s1600/P1010035crop.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Garden rocket stove" border="0" data-original-height="1346" data-original-width="1172" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6lme425mrq1AZHCzDB45N8ypH0YNysz4MBe85YfE3gOiLfJ0y0v0m9KgcEktWFYe7V96nQfSoAzV-4SFAqtTxpYtdF9Q9C-i0a_e2MnaxrUHsM-7jSQvjv9mFgySr57WhkcDGrL7OKZI/s320/P1010035crop.JPG" title="Original rocket prior to assembly" width="278" /></a></div>
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Spurred on by the results from the stove, this year I decided to improve the design by changing the pipe configuration to a 'J' - tube rocket. The advantage of this format was that the fuel, being held in the vertical (the short leg of the 'J'), would gravity feed into the combustion region of the burn tube, that region would preheat the incoming fuel prior to ignition thus making a fast, clean burn without the need of manual feeding. I should stress that the amount of human management of the combustion in the original horizontal feed only arose because of the small diameter of the fuel I was burning. Larger rocket stoves burning bigger branches require much less frequent attention.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt3_ZgP_5uqFBhOi10cE2ruHnTCAuVx2V4DIXgb__jjDVo6Ug4SPK6CPCHKLhGSuyjn6JhbgkgpIKVkCe4NzG_WZxgHr7gNJpNiaIdefxjNs5kfXve1SsHWQFGo73BpuGBVQhBFV7OHQI/s1600/IMG_0832J.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="welded rocket stove" border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="477" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt3_ZgP_5uqFBhOi10cE2ruHnTCAuVx2V4DIXgb__jjDVo6Ug4SPK6CPCHKLhGSuyjn6JhbgkgpIKVkCe4NzG_WZxgHr7gNJpNiaIdefxjNs5kfXve1SsHWQFGo73BpuGBVQhBFV7OHQI/s640/IMG_0832J.JPG" title="Finished stove " width="715" /></a></div>
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The new stove comprised 3 lengths of pipe; feed tube, burn chamber and flue/chimney. Reading around I found that an ideal ratio for the lengths would be 1:2:4 the latter being the flue length which could be longer to generate more draft. The pipe internal diameter would be the principal unit in the ratio meaning that the three pipe lengths for feed, combustion and flue tubes would be: 4", 8" and 16" (102mm, 204mm, 408mm) respectively.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpO2NRF6zA3ECmFkYFftgDuheIHUSEqyN8jAxndQW4NuIRKe9rPR2dt12thMb9RyeF_jtPD7PGHMu-eg77q-U3t3qOyrrUczksc8CRRnvIeAaXczIT61TPCpKFQzzh6RTym1-sx5uJKC0/s1600/IMG_0794blog.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Making a rocket stove from scrap" border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="477" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpO2NRF6zA3ECmFkYFftgDuheIHUSEqyN8jAxndQW4NuIRKe9rPR2dt12thMb9RyeF_jtPD7PGHMu-eg77q-U3t3qOyrrUczksc8CRRnvIeAaXczIT61TPCpKFQzzh6RTym1-sx5uJKC0/s640/IMG_0794blog.JPG" title="Flue in position for welding" width="715" /></a></div>
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Obviously, I decided to re-use the original welded pipe to give me the first two zones of the new stove so the only additional pipe was that for the flue. The pipes were cut to a 45° angle at the joining faces to produce the right-angle mitred joint. The proximity of the two vertical sections of the arrangement did give me some concern as I thought it could give a problem with the accessibility for welding, ultimately this proved not to be the case but I feel it is worthy of mention. I also decided to cut the open end of the feed tube to 45°.
Once welded, I was able to check weld integrity by supporting the J vertically and filling the pipes to above the welds with water.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizdzuw0fjJxb2HpV330KD0P7zdIbMfVtVBdmZ01Ucz5FDpqEL3_kHQ9Uui0zrRtfWph605FhyRFuGWfZ4PpJH74eEC72aR2x6aDaoHXw-AQqDH9Ljkob2udbWVAUHWEjOJiI47E5kPpbQ/s1600/IMG_0814Blog.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Making a J tube rocket stove for the garden" border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="477" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizdzuw0fjJxb2HpV330KD0P7zdIbMfVtVBdmZ01Ucz5FDpqEL3_kHQ9Uui0zrRtfWph605FhyRFuGWfZ4PpJH74eEC72aR2x6aDaoHXw-AQqDH9Ljkob2udbWVAUHWEjOJiI47E5kPpbQ/s640/IMG_0814Blog.JPG" title="Finished J tube" width="715" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1C4R1oFZnwRjTiAHtOBakBq0ppOkVRt2Rrs8ovU_vipuoBZxubMcvHHyeLE22GI8bBstpHD6bWMEBZUccCq0_pU4aTs-FvXvqrN5_Ud2miEJFTc-TxdrF4jDGmmkHvee5V6ml4Fkvphc/s1600/IMG_1158blog.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Making a garden rocket stove" border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1C4R1oFZnwRjTiAHtOBakBq0ppOkVRt2Rrs8ovU_vipuoBZxubMcvHHyeLE22GI8bBstpHD6bWMEBZUccCq0_pU4aTs-FvXvqrN5_Ud2miEJFTc-TxdrF4jDGmmkHvee5V6ml4Fkvphc/s320/IMG_1158blog.JPG" title="Window bars on frame" width="213" /></a></div>
Legs for the stove were cut from mild steel bar removed from some old windows. I decided to use three legs as this configuration is the most stable when on an uneven surface. Two legs were welded at the flue side of the stove at an angle of 45° and I used the mitred weld as the guide for correctly positioning the first leg. The third leg was welded vertically down the feed tube.</div>
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I wanted all three legs to be cranked out from the stove body so as to have a more stable geometry. I laid the assembly on its side and slid a steel tube along the first of the flue-legs. By keeping my foot firmly on the leg that was touching the ground, I could bend the leg out from the stove body.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCoLxQ0UPCzE1oYGvHj0AaYbvbMPRsGcmB9shB_mk6E_3I4u9ZwomiANCduPeJYJ2a9kfCTpTV0k8UAIeX-ihc8ZINEcia_akaIEHYn1UlGBKOF-9G3YMGI0tkh4UUz2XyBUkDpnVfQO0/s1600/IMG_0828blog.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Making an artistic rocket stove from scrap" border="0" data-original-height="849" data-original-width="1600" height="379" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCoLxQ0UPCzE1oYGvHj0AaYbvbMPRsGcmB9shB_mk6E_3I4u9ZwomiANCduPeJYJ2a9kfCTpTV0k8UAIeX-ihc8ZINEcia_akaIEHYn1UlGBKOF-9G3YMGI0tkh4UUz2XyBUkDpnVfQO0/s640/IMG_0828blog.JPG" title="Bending the legs" width="715" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdkbW0rKnZcCoEGMybWFRDz-8o_mzRHVUUBM9_N3uTZgG74VMSMYmDMvVu7TS4BI3n6mBII5iWg9ykPB2TZ9xAoyZc4MT3tS7jD6iIGJYrGRtxJ1W0hZZPvi8giGGH1jQ14RqK9FI_MIk/s1600/IMG_0835crop.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Make your own rocket stove from scrap" border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="492" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdkbW0rKnZcCoEGMybWFRDz-8o_mzRHVUUBM9_N3uTZgG74VMSMYmDMvVu7TS4BI3n6mBII5iWg9ykPB2TZ9xAoyZc4MT3tS7jD6iIGJYrGRtxJ1W0hZZPvi8giGGH1jQ14RqK9FI_MIk/s320/IMG_0835crop.JPG" title="Third leg in place" width="98" /></a></div>
For the second leg on that end of the stove I turned the stove over, supporting the stove flue on a piece of steel I use as an anvil. Again using the steel pipe, I could bend it out to the same angle.</div>
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The third leg had been cut oversize and once bent, I stood the stove up on its three legs to determine the correct length and cut off the surplus. </div>
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Finally I needed to attach a pot support above the open end of the flue. The distance of the base of the kettle/saucepan from the open end of the flue had to be sufficient so as not to impede the flow of the out-flowing gases of combustion. I calculated the height by determining the area of the stove flue and converting this to the wall surface area of a cylinder of the same diameter i.e. Area=πr²=2πrh cancelling h=r/2 which equated to 1" (25mm).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVxnuShDdrHV7Na6VJHwEiv8SA-TdGO-_7rpgLjCRXT6WOkNMS9TxbC2JaxDy5_hq0W_yV4laS4B1fKSuQ-ZMkvVg7hyphenhyphenAEYo1K5XdVceecBmAyxiORBvqoOUWQwSYrHEumXg7FOc7Rn6w/s1600/Pot+stand.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="DIY artistic J-tube rocket stove " border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="477" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVxnuShDdrHV7Na6VJHwEiv8SA-TdGO-_7rpgLjCRXT6WOkNMS9TxbC2JaxDy5_hq0W_yV4laS4B1fKSuQ-ZMkvVg7hyphenhyphenAEYo1K5XdVceecBmAyxiORBvqoOUWQwSYrHEumXg7FOc7Rn6w/s640/Pot+stand.JPG" title="Pot rests from window bar" width="715" /></a></div>
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Using the same bar as for the legs, I bent 3 short lengths to a right-angle and welded them, equally spaced at the flue top and to a height of 1" above the flue.</div>
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Prior to the first run I dressed all the welds with an angle grinder.<br />
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<h2>
<span style="font-size: large;">Testing, Testing.....</span></h2>
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Now for the acid test. A small amount of paper was lit and dropped down the fuel feed tube, rapidly followed by the addition of small pieces of wood. Initially, </div>
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the flame exited out of the open end of the feed tube, a quick fanning action with a piece of card above the feed tube produced sufficient draft to drive the flames DOWN and into the burn tube. This immediately started the 'rocket' action, the hot gases passing up the flue furnished the strong draft into the burn tube to produce the hot flame and roaring sound of a functioning rocket stove. Satisfied with the successful first burn the real test began.....time for coffee.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigsofNZNQivJEcqocX1Zb_a5t7GPd9po12UCMmn07Qo8QDDbfl9-DSjuIbN-S_XghIVtacGFmsDeLUiEr-rbLBjNOFOy3UIxj35KhXIWWaPEGVlGhxalIVrge1Jf5WUfTTbpcw40BEjWo/s1600/IMG_0844a.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Welded garden rocket stove" border="0" data-original-height="1031" data-original-width="1600" height="477" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigsofNZNQivJEcqocX1Zb_a5t7GPd9po12UCMmn07Qo8QDDbfl9-DSjuIbN-S_XghIVtacGFmsDeLUiEr-rbLBjNOFOy3UIxj35KhXIWWaPEGVlGhxalIVrge1Jf5WUfTTbpcw40BEjWo/s640/IMG_0844a.JPG" title="Combustion at the bottom of the feed tube" width="715" /></a> </div>
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At the time of enjoying our first coffee, Sue noticed that the stove, with the fresh fuel sticking out of the feed tube, had a marked resemblance to a rooster or cockerel and by welding two shaped pieces of the window bar to the flue for the beak and the addition of two spots of weld on the sides of the flue to represent the eyes, the 'Rooster Rocket' came into being.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ9nzA7D3f2ZMYY5VUq2MFtOlTQuRFg6VHRsISJfcT5MDCABhjMEfG0pwsopnbFX19C_t5QkURN_VFhxw-8n7n8i5-tN9hN93Oz4zOVwie0VmXHag6bJr6UdIPotQcYTSZ8CCXCMJyBio/s1600/Face.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Artistic rocket stove for the garden" border="0" data-original-height="477" data-original-width="715" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ9nzA7D3f2ZMYY5VUq2MFtOlTQuRFg6VHRsISJfcT5MDCABhjMEfG0pwsopnbFX19C_t5QkURN_VFhxw-8n7n8i5-tN9hN93Oz4zOVwie0VmXHag6bJr6UdIPotQcYTSZ8CCXCMJyBio/s1600/Face.png" title="Coffe water on" /></a></div>
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The stove has now been used regularly over the last month and from cold, boiling water enough for two mugs of coffee is obtained in about 8 minutes. The great thing is we are burning thin twigs and rose prunings which we would find difficult to feed into our cooker or our Godin stove. The fuel feeds in without assistance and definitely produces a clean combustion providing it is bone dry. The great thing with this size stove is that it is portable enough to store in a corner of the greenhouse and can be brought out for use in seconds.......and now here's the film </div>
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<iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/ArU2oSGQFHE" width="560"></iframe>
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Until next time and from a sunny day in Normandie,</div>
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Cheers, Andy</div>
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© Andy Colley 2020<br />
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<b>How to Make a Simple Fuelless Cooker or Hay-box</b></h2>
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Here's a quick and easy way to use less fuel, less water and still have a tasty and nutritious meal from a cardboard box...<b><a href="http://thegreenlever.blogspot.fr/2013/02/fuelless-cooker-or-hay-box-no-power-no.html#.VDQC3NZDt0w">read more</a></b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6C1t0aRxfT2dtDykMoSGZ2OFipQu1EchEEDP3fGZZbBDk3fhJmRC_Fy1INMzkWBRhYUlpq_Ki1Pz4EJg3mLpcuo-_hkUL_xXb9LYO4W0G6Rmoc5hmDjP3w8wIHZnjZ8LjKlaqVr-SovY/s1600/IMG_5349.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6C1t0aRxfT2dtDykMoSGZ2OFipQu1EchEEDP3fGZZbBDk3fhJmRC_Fy1INMzkWBRhYUlpq_Ki1Pz4EJg3mLpcuo-_hkUL_xXb9LYO4W0G6Rmoc5hmDjP3w8wIHZnjZ8LjKlaqVr-SovY/s1600/IMG_5349.JPG" width="200" /></a><b>How to Make a Wooden Fuelless Cooker or Hay-box</b></h2>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
A more robust model which you can keep to hand in the kitchen or to take
in a car to provide hot, nourishing food on a journey...<b><a href="http://thegreenlever.blogspot.fr/2013/03/make-wooden-fuelless-cooker-or-hay-box.html#.VTvj__CGPes">read more</a></b>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYnShPO5hamRu0w0CDktMe0g-zqH255h6P0v9ZMfPoa7Fk3u2BSQi0MgvHL58r0TRWK-rGEjkPLgLPfl5CuZwaznK6JAkjnojhMXZKZBtwnrzb1wIqIrfMyCFiYK_nYH-p-J_MiLMAdCY/s1600/P1080367.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYnShPO5hamRu0w0CDktMe0g-zqH255h6P0v9ZMfPoa7Fk3u2BSQi0MgvHL58r0TRWK-rGEjkPLgLPfl5CuZwaznK6JAkjnojhMXZKZBtwnrzb1wIqIrfMyCFiYK_nYH-p-J_MiLMAdCY/s1600/P1080367.JPG" width="200" /></a><b>Choosing and Using Woodburning Cookers</b></h2>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
When we first arrived here the Spartan heating was a massive granite fireplace, the chimney of which, 1.70m by 0.70m was...<b><a href="http://thegreenlever.blogspot.fr/2011/11/moving-of-grid-how-to-get-started.html#.VDQsidZDt0w">read more</a></b>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyAJJbmQp21_l3vHM1j5fPJhV9S0pLfEp-1ogAbAHb4D47CqFkfsC5HVC28plHj3yZDIA6ssliASSQyid9oyi0YE5A4GX_Cefz5zYQDYmn92LZJXeQK_CQNRIGJbarGWlLJsj-aTFg3Nw/s1600/P1090916.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyAJJbmQp21_l3vHM1j5fPJhV9S0pLfEp-1ogAbAHb4D47CqFkfsC5HVC28plHj3yZDIA6ssliASSQyid9oyi0YE5A4GX_Cefz5zYQDYmn92LZJXeQK_CQNRIGJbarGWlLJsj-aTFg3Nw/s1600/P1090916.JPG" width="200" /></a><b>Heat Pumps - Case Study. Lake & River Water</b></h2>
Anne-Marie and Jean-Louis have always used heat pumps as their principal source of energy...<b><a href="http://thegreenlever.blogspot.fr/2011/11/moving-off-grid-how-to-get-started-part.html#.VDQx39ZDt0w">read more</a></b>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinOZXR2Xrck3ct3AFd9ZHXjOvCpNTs19EFUwXy5QLu5ZgiR2gPJ2o8hVMqguwDjvnaN1JEP-grqjKMt1NZ9kX9gO_jQ8ai5rmOq2PACQ2cICj2LUUlFmSsLOKhnQN9BZ9cvN6ZMC24Wig/s1600/IMG_2147.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinOZXR2Xrck3ct3AFd9ZHXjOvCpNTs19EFUwXy5QLu5ZgiR2gPJ2o8hVMqguwDjvnaN1JEP-grqjKMt1NZ9kX9gO_jQ8ai5rmOq2PACQ2cICj2LUUlFmSsLOKhnQN9BZ9cvN6ZMC24Wig/s1600/IMG_2147.JPG" style="cursor: move;" width="200" /></a><b>Wood Chip Boiler Biomass Heater - Case Study. Organic Dairy Farm</b></h2>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
A project that actually lies at the heart of what future energy conversion may be all about...<b><a href="http://thegreenlever.blogspot.fr/2014/03/heat-from-hedges-wood-chip-boiler.html#.VDQ7WNZDt0w">read more</a></b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiYDF8O52ywl9nxbrHzyoVOVAbJbPdogeEIavJHqrHp_IoQ41KR6eOPSdOvtz0G6nDhAvSAuanv6fvzBMsr1UsHTGMsiFTdwoullmVnIGK5bAY6BKmK5nSfLiDpULxQkra6H2dWM2o-5k/s1600/IMG_1102.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiYDF8O52ywl9nxbrHzyoVOVAbJbPdogeEIavJHqrHp_IoQ41KR6eOPSdOvtz0G6nDhAvSAuanv6fvzBMsr1UsHTGMsiFTdwoullmVnIGK5bAY6BKmK5nSfLiDpULxQkra6H2dWM2o-5k/s1600/IMG_1102.JPG" width="200" /></a><b>Home-made low-cost stove night storage heater from strawcrete and stone </b></h2>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
For some time we have been toying with the idea of changing the heating system in our sitting room</div>
...<b><a href="http://thegreenlever.blogspot.fr/2014/09/homemade-low-cost-stove-night-storage.html#.VDUgLNZDt0w">read more</a></b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCyezpBRgGVhx1XmN1k8MSJZEgcIC_AKZVrPwRcY-HyW22zNbT1tr7266XBUgvrOgW1_4Vyviz0iDcbmvY5Zcgl1QaOHmQISmIUxCvSKYFud9F6bTbwfd3M5KpDgJ1ScDp026LCIowlPs/s1600/IMG_6645.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCyezpBRgGVhx1XmN1k8MSJZEgcIC_AKZVrPwRcY-HyW22zNbT1tr7266XBUgvrOgW1_4Vyviz0iDcbmvY5Zcgl1QaOHmQISmIUxCvSKYFud9F6bTbwfd3M5KpDgJ1ScDp026LCIowlPs/s200/IMG_6645.JPG" width="200" /></a>Home-made strawcrete and stone storage heater Part 2 - building the wall</h2>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Discussing our previous experience with storage heaters and why we
wanted to make our own with ecological materials. And with the
strawcrete pad now dry, the stone work begins...<b><a href="http://thegreenlever.blogspot.fr/2014/11/home-made-strawcrete-and-stone-storage.html#.VGUGmq3ft0w">read more</a></b></div>
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Home-made strawcrete and stone storage heater Part 3 - building the wall cont..</h2>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Building the wall and firing up!...<b><a href="http://thegreenlever.blogspot.fr/2014/11/home-made-storage-heater-part-3.html#.VHJNsIXft0w">read more</a></b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3uIcxN-EMcc6aVP8fcBT29gxXcdQxrW4zaaJA449_UUv_U6SlRBiyXt3YqRWcUTHZtOQNCCWw4VIXZwsMkUXwzaJddz8jmGS0hH8UjBMFD2Ve2cZrNdHUd3LYrP5GKTcuTZdr5KJXAJQ/s1600/Screenshot-MVI_6534.MOV-1a.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="125" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3uIcxN-EMcc6aVP8fcBT29gxXcdQxrW4zaaJA449_UUv_U6SlRBiyXt3YqRWcUTHZtOQNCCWw4VIXZwsMkUXwzaJddz8jmGS0hH8UjBMFD2Ve2cZrNdHUd3LYrP5GKTcuTZdr5KJXAJQ/s1600/Screenshot-MVI_6534.MOV-1a.png" width="200" /></a></div>
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How to Sweep the Chimney - Tips and Strategies
</h2>
When wood or coal is burned in a fire, smoke is given off, in this are
particles of unburned material, tars and water, which are slightly
sticky and will adhere to...<b><a href="http://thegreenlever.blogspot.fr/2014/11/how-to-sweep-chimney-tips-and-strategies.html#.VG-xYIXft0w">read more</a></b><br />
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Better Heat Distribution from Wood Heat 'How To'</h2>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
For most of the year, the heat output from the cooker is adequate to
keep the kitchen 'comfortable'..<b><a href="https://thegreenlever.blogspot.fr/2017/01/getting-most-from-wood-heat-better-heat.html#.WGpv3mdVK1E" target="_blank">read more</a></b></div>
<b> </b><span style="color: #38761d; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #274e13;"> </span></span><br />
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<br />The Green Leverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01335293795269368752noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3199850434720533796.post-83011546309779850842019-11-28T12:44:00.002+01:002023-08-08T14:22:55.336+02:00Convert Your Washing Machine to Pedal Power Part 5 - making wooden supports for the bicycle<div style="text-align: justify;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfkng94MgpoD38FYu9M9zLiOxC9j8gu6IfuKRI3Ans5ye3goyKH7v06z2UTzxyx8CGESRA1n2lBuqtra6jVQLXbYCZ8KaEu9AmTYt9YVzVlMhnzTegd8CImkyQrnaFhiGjWGIGYm-NgbI/s1600/IMG_4697blog.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Convert a washing machine to pedal power" border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfkng94MgpoD38FYu9M9zLiOxC9j8gu6IfuKRI3Ans5ye3goyKH7v06z2UTzxyx8CGESRA1n2lBuqtra6jVQLXbYCZ8KaEu9AmTYt9YVzVlMhnzTegd8CImkyQrnaFhiGjWGIGYm-NgbI/s400/IMG_4697blog.JPG" title="Laundry in the garden" width="265" /></a></div>
I have already mentioned that it was my intention to support the bicycle on wooden supports but I had to reuse the original metal supports due to the forthcoming exhibition. Now that was behind us, I could make the front and rear bicycle supports from recuperated pallet wood.<br />
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The important dimension was the height of the stand necessary to obtain the clearance between the pedal at its lowest point and the pallet. In my case this was about 12" (300mm). The vertical supports of the stands were stiffened with angled braces which extended to the stand base. Each stand had front and rear 'feet' which were screwed to the pallet and extended across at least 4 of the pallet's planks (this was to distribute the weight of the bicycle and the cyclist).<br />
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To give you some sort of idea of the sizes of material used, I list them below:<br />
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Stand uprights: 3" x 1" x 12½" (75mm x 25mm x 310mm)<br />
Base: 3" x 1¾" x 8½" (75mm x 32mm x 210mm)<br />
Feet: 13" x 3½" x ⅝" (325mm x 85mm x 15mm)<br />
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These are all recuperated untreated pallet wood.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrApUamzgEeTql0epvMqKjs32niClLoeW1oFbsPewbCrbBCFaQF-SBbQzbRQldugH5sZU2Ozv_pxC1u6wlGU5J-JnMkZh8deiJF_nsLrll9QighdUVncm7WMtJlx7QIsOkMKTmv0-6eDE/s1600/IMG_3670blog.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Bicycle-powered washing machine" border="0" data-original-height="477" data-original-width="715" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrApUamzgEeTql0epvMqKjs32niClLoeW1oFbsPewbCrbBCFaQF-SBbQzbRQldugH5sZU2Ozv_pxC1u6wlGU5J-JnMkZh8deiJF_nsLrll9QighdUVncm7WMtJlx7QIsOkMKTmv0-6eDE/s1600/IMG_3670blog.JPG" title="Fork ends in place on the wooden supports" /></a></div>
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The bicycle fork ends were supported on 10mm threaded bar.<br />
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For fitting the the supports onto the length of the pallet, I made both of them in the shape of a right-angled triangle.<br />
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The rear support comprised the uprights, glued and screwed to the base. The diagonal braces were glued and screwed to the inside faces of the uprights but did not go to the top of the upright so as to permit the fitting of the fork ends onto the supporting bar.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYDAxj1JshJmWhNSFxrJ3Cb-3Ukn4fGMnS7cRUbpxqJDJNndlSeTh9ONIsmETTX7fxxx73lPi_Ob9Ea1dsDLXOpOZQqpePrxckQqtmisF4z18dIHlYYX-Kg-oIYXizpOSeTtfLSfRXDrU/s1600/IMG_3758blog.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Repurposed washing machine to pedal power" border="0" data-original-height="477" data-original-width="715" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYDAxj1JshJmWhNSFxrJ3Cb-3Ukn4fGMnS7cRUbpxqJDJNndlSeTh9ONIsmETTX7fxxx73lPi_Ob9Ea1dsDLXOpOZQqpePrxckQqtmisF4z18dIHlYYX-Kg-oIYXizpOSeTtfLSfRXDrU/s1600/IMG_3758blog.JPG" title="Checking the supports on the bench top" /></a></div>
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Packing pieces of the same thickness as the uprights were glued to the inside face of the base so that the braces could be screwed to a flat face at the same level as that of the uprights. Once the glue was dry, the stand was glued and screwed to the two 'feet' and the clearance holes for the supporting threaded bar were drilled in the uprights about 1" from the top edge.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDpiYlQrw4exL03fmX2te29rXIPgm5KlNI-Z7lT3X271-tNOt5_xYRO_-C0S8eeiAiFiXFsIgQo7DBt9X9uWpqJz31sWRoVyts4WtnDQ5EIy0AeJJjuvzghWwlQvlGmto0nBa0Iq5wl8Y/s1600/IMG_3759blog.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Repurpose a washing machine to pedal power" border="0" data-original-height="477" data-original-width="715" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDpiYlQrw4exL03fmX2te29rXIPgm5KlNI-Z7lT3X271-tNOt5_xYRO_-C0S8eeiAiFiXFsIgQo7DBt9X9uWpqJz31sWRoVyts4WtnDQ5EIy0AeJJjuvzghWwlQvlGmto0nBa0Iq5wl8Y/s1600/IMG_3759blog.JPG" title="Front support showing assymetry" /></a>The front support was a slightly different design in that I needed the fork end nearest the washer to be on the outside face of the support. This was so that the bicycle chain wheel would align with that on the machine. To avoid having to do this asymmetrical arrangement I could have made the chain wheel on the drum shaft stick out further by increasing the thickness of the piece of wood on the shaft. I also made a housed joint for the one upright (see image).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim-tJVukw-8qBN4mXjn9Y6M1LXjzZTYS947mHyIcvnbhx-8GETfCiYbqD3l21FUJBoCJi20YjKK5n1R-2G7EW7ySpTTPJleaWmrVnwb_phAzlMsV7LylGP22MaxoStQu3zzmzn8KB5Uig/s1600/IMG_3672blog.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="How to convert a washing machine to pedal power" border="0" data-original-height="477" data-original-width="715" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim-tJVukw-8qBN4mXjn9Y6M1LXjzZTYS947mHyIcvnbhx-8GETfCiYbqD3l21FUJBoCJi20YjKK5n1R-2G7EW7ySpTTPJleaWmrVnwb_phAzlMsV7LylGP22MaxoStQu3zzmzn8KB5Uig/s1600/IMG_3672blog.JPG" title="Front support housed joint" /></a></div>
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The support was also asymmetrically mounted on the feet to ensure the proximity of the bicycle to the machine. As with the rear support the holes for the threaded bar were drilled 1" from the top edge of the uprights.<br />
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<h2>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXP6OTTuUJNq2HajTx8w8hboenC7p3ahn8BT_nXBE3anFtPFD3yLGIyr3bpHBywALUeaXVCzyKaw00Od2TfTc13QaXlO4S8-W-kH1hHj6OrVO6LYyutnidXpjJ5XpZ8AAOSYcYqDEI9Ec/s1600/IMG_3761blog.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="DIY conversion human-powered washing machine" border="0" data-original-height="477" data-original-width="715" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXP6OTTuUJNq2HajTx8w8hboenC7p3ahn8BT_nXBE3anFtPFD3yLGIyr3bpHBywALUeaXVCzyKaw00Od2TfTc13QaXlO4S8-W-kH1hHj6OrVO6LYyutnidXpjJ5XpZ8AAOSYcYqDEI9Ec/s1600/IMG_3761blog.JPG" title="Front support showing additional bracing" /></a><span style="font-size: large;">Fitting the bicycle on the pallet</span></h2>
The first step was to ensure that the washing machine was pushed as far as possible on its two fixing bolts in the slotted holes away from the end edge of the pallet so that once the chain was attached, the machine could be moved further from the bicycle's chain wheel so as to increase the chain tension and also to compensate for any minor misalignment.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJnCCjiJUTWRsAYJxqvJ9DRO3VCvkMmBjaIvDnsibCnA1-0OXImk7WzIrgcXYcRhPBwyzYBKnFSUPucTpU1ORHjTev76qrLBe2sWfT3sRsjmZ2vTmHe3WIhUVL_qSpGccbqKW0UDtWgpI/s1600/IMG_3848blog.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Pedal-powered laundry solutions" border="0" data-original-height="477" data-original-width="715" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJnCCjiJUTWRsAYJxqvJ9DRO3VCvkMmBjaIvDnsibCnA1-0OXImk7WzIrgcXYcRhPBwyzYBKnFSUPucTpU1ORHjTev76qrLBe2sWfT3sRsjmZ2vTmHe3WIhUVL_qSpGccbqKW0UDtWgpI/s1600/IMG_3848blog.JPG" title="Plan view of front support" /></a></div>
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The two supports were placed in their approximate positions on the pallet and the threaded bars were put in place. The bicycle was lowered onto the bars and fixed in place with nuts. Note that washers and nuts were also on the inside faces of the stands so that they would allow the clamping nuts to be tightened. If these nuts were not there then tightening the outside nuts would merely squash the forks and the top of the supports together.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhziuMe8jWWCkMtuI5rR0ghnK0C6ILYl8kafr60QoA_ydFJCRW5DPw2K2ih6ogkszwPFbCxzNMqT7EgE5yOTFPmmOUx3BNB-xLbMsgydBToiUcXqa25LVDByP1HCipRQv0DPh69uFj5gdM/s1600/IMG_3851blog.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Washing machine conversion to human power" border="0" data-original-height="477" data-original-width="715" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhziuMe8jWWCkMtuI5rR0ghnK0C6ILYl8kafr60QoA_ydFJCRW5DPw2K2ih6ogkszwPFbCxzNMqT7EgE5yOTFPmmOUx3BNB-xLbMsgydBToiUcXqa25LVDByP1HCipRQv0DPh69uFj5gdM/s1600/IMG_3851blog.JPG" title="Front support secured in place" /></a></div>
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<br />
Now fixed to the supports, the chain could be fitted between the bicycle and the washing machine and the alignment of the two chain wheels could be checked.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjv1RxF3jTuXENh8yEGC_r4o_3NX3VBtVG_UCHiYnL6QCZB42_F-KbVw5iBehblYQgAsILRojemGiEpktZ9Wz07B3xR5bqxT_79cStMrCCc5l7L1R2o1VSjshRnArDtVu7n2wc4L2r6p8k/s1600/IMG_3852blog.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Re-use a broken washing machine" border="0" data-original-height="477" data-original-width="715" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjv1RxF3jTuXENh8yEGC_r4o_3NX3VBtVG_UCHiYnL6QCZB42_F-KbVw5iBehblYQgAsILRojemGiEpktZ9Wz07B3xR5bqxT_79cStMrCCc5l7L1R2o1VSjshRnArDtVu7n2wc4L2r6p8k/s1600/IMG_3852blog.JPG" title="Rear support secured in place" /></a></div>
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Once it was O.K. the supports were screwed to the pallet. Because the support feet were at the ends of the pallet, the screws fixing the feet went through the top planks and into the pallet's stringer board. On the 'inboard' feet I screwed through the top planks and into a plank similar in size to the support feet.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb0h0u8vBn3F1KDuteVwchAi8-ZpNjDFgWHO5Mj-z2OqPUkO7VOtfJtPqmv6EnCHIq80WTbP8MH4YvSfmgporx5Wg4vNWGqL-qirlKy6i7ofFgYhDhds4FJaPJ481lpEDMWZSfvj1N6Ro/s1600/WAshingmachine.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Converting an old washing machine to pedal power" border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="403" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb0h0u8vBn3F1KDuteVwchAi8-ZpNjDFgWHO5Mj-z2OqPUkO7VOtfJtPqmv6EnCHIq80WTbP8MH4YvSfmgporx5Wg4vNWGqL-qirlKy6i7ofFgYhDhds4FJaPJ481lpEDMWZSfvj1N6Ro/s640/WAshingmachine.JPG" title="Ready to do the laundry" width="715" /></a></div>
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The machine was ready to go!<br />
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The whole project has been made into an omnibus video version with the stands as the last part:<br />
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<iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/l_35IZD17co" width="560"></iframe>
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If you read this article and found it interesting then share it with your friends on social media or suchlike. Please also feel free to ask questions and or make comments and if you found this helpful and would like to support this site you can always <a href="https://ko-fi.com/X8X01EDNU" target="_blank"><img alt="Buy Me a Coffee at ko-fi.com" border="0" height="36" src="https://az743702.vo.msecnd.net/cdn/kofi3.png?v=2" style="border: 0px; height: 36px;" /></a></p><div style="text-align: justify;">You can also find all my films <a href="https://www.youtube.com/user/Organikmechanic"><b>Youtube</b></a> and also now on <a href="https://odysee.com/$/invite/@Organikmechanic:0" target="_blank"><b>Odysee</b></a> </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Until next time and from a sunny day in Normandie,</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Cheers, Andy</div><br style="text-align: justify;" /><span style="text-align: justify;">© Andy Colley 2019</span><p></p><p></p></div>
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<h2>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2sMcUFAm6Mkwoe0GBHxVeVcWrFSWLKqfOjFtGYbcZTw5h7YehLAFcdUenkDM0YotP5-jOw-2VA9O3Cn1hIOMAqDD1Rs4g1YOQRWbR-vsP1DR63PpTUxrzlhhQ0yxmEindtVmjmok7-0U/s1600/Screenshot+from+MVI_3925.MOVcrop.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1028" height="140" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2sMcUFAm6Mkwoe0GBHxVeVcWrFSWLKqfOjFtGYbcZTw5h7YehLAFcdUenkDM0YotP5-jOw-2VA9O3Cn1hIOMAqDD1Rs4g1YOQRWbR-vsP1DR63PpTUxrzlhhQ0yxmEindtVmjmok7-0U/s200/Screenshot+from+MVI_3925.MOVcrop.png" width="200" /></a>Convert Your Washing Machine to Pedal Power Part 1 - Getting Started (Top-Loader)</h2>
The
most frequent reasons for machine failure is of an electrical or
electronic nature. Neither of these preclude using it, as long as the
drum is watertight. Even if you don't already own a broken machine I can
guarantee that..<b><a href="https://thegreenlever.blogspot.com/2018/08/convert-your-washing-machine-to-pedal.html#.W3Rd_hqYOkA" target="_blank">read more</a></b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiChAr-p4GMDbdwiumT1jjOBHOsOLJ5k7GCGlf4caScdoOnQgmc_XsYR9PVuQ9heGvOvKGJ4eYMLWSsFkczZIhUUkOHGy0_GpYlLjt0oBrN5pudMDVaJHErGMsIaMCvKZDGB9ETvNDI0cA/s1600/P1070521.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiChAr-p4GMDbdwiumT1jjOBHOsOLJ5k7GCGlf4caScdoOnQgmc_XsYR9PVuQ9heGvOvKGJ4eYMLWSsFkczZIhUUkOHGy0_GpYlLjt0oBrN5pudMDVaJHErGMsIaMCvKZDGB9ETvNDI0cA/s200/P1070521.JPG" width="200" /></a>How to Convert your Washing Machine to Pedal Power 1 - The Basic Model (Front-Loader)</h2>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
The electronic fault that arose in our automatic washing machine
rendered it useless. I knew that the machine was watertight and...<b><a href="http://thegreenlever.blogspot.fr/2015/12/how-to-convert-your-washing-machine-to_10.html#.Vmlz4npVK1E" target="_blank">read more</a></b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2GG7-nUwePS48dO3Letd7FRYpSXVaPxOJvpUYcGcTDf1xozLG_KtzfSS3Gqd5uSJIP8JL0O7XSiI8Fzc2eHUe5romSapV9D0Al-sUrptoo17lLKtEyfXbFr6wUnEkMai-4P6LRuTWFNg/s1600/IMG_3144.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2GG7-nUwePS48dO3Letd7FRYpSXVaPxOJvpUYcGcTDf1xozLG_KtzfSS3Gqd5uSJIP8JL0O7XSiI8Fzc2eHUe5romSapV9D0Al-sUrptoo17lLKtEyfXbFr6wUnEkMai-4P6LRuTWFNg/s200/IMG_3144.JPG" width="200" /></a>How to Convert your Washing Machine to Pedal Power 2 - Modifications (Front-Loader)</h2>
We’ve exhibited this machine on many occasions and the most frequent
comment from spectators has been ‘let’s see you spin dry now!’...<b><a href="http://thegreenlever.blogspot.fr/2015/12/how-to-convert-your-washing-machine-to.html#.VmrzDnpVK1E" target="_blank">read more</a></b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc_GWhgIVk3WD07fqi9iNd3fl-NbfQkNXeauSoLhPzBBNs3A0fRcj7TAPAJCO0XyoGjKL7ubXfF61IHZZ5XvwKr-XPdz_S-6PO6yr3d_c4bzEQtR1ttFASHQrXgFcYWIalkglJdfPIi6A/s1600/P1090952.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc_GWhgIVk3WD07fqi9iNd3fl-NbfQkNXeauSoLhPzBBNs3A0fRcj7TAPAJCO0XyoGjKL7ubXfF61IHZZ5XvwKr-XPdz_S-6PO6yr3d_c4bzEQtR1ttFASHQrXgFcYWIalkglJdfPIi6A/s1600/P1090952.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
<h2>
Make a Pallet Wood Creel or Overhead Drying Rack </h2>
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Cheap and cheerful engineering in the practical use of recycled,
untreated pallet and fruit crate wood - for drying clothes, herbs,
flowers...<b><a href="http://thegreenlever.blogspot.fr/2012/02/make-pallet-wood-creel-or-overhead.html#.VmroynpVK1E">read more</a></b></div>
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The Green Leverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01335293795269368752noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3199850434720533796.post-35711129219206304142019-11-22T10:51:00.002+01:002023-08-08T14:21:14.691+02:00Convert Your Washing Machine to Pedal Power Part 4 - Setting Up (Top-Loader)<div style="text-align: justify;">
It was now time to mount the machine and the bicycle onto the pallet. I was planning to make new supports for the bicycle out of wood, my idea being not everyone has access to a welder, which was how I'd made the original bike supports. However, it was at this time that we'd been invited to demonstrate the machine at our local organic supermarket as part of a fortnights promotion of their 'autonomous living' campaign.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVcn2o3ouD5946ED4QAQcXoHzhvuHHxsZx2PgYfO6rsEERRkXagVVv_61kszXEg1NEJoKP3cw-olzdQbJXfKrm6ofBM2Ohy-bL5pajRS3knKugWVRuwsZ1HvKvaoNKViwM6O9QNZSrJog/s1600/IMG_3593crop.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Pedal-powered washing machine" border="0" data-original-height="459" data-original-width="715" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVcn2o3ouD5946ED4QAQcXoHzhvuHHxsZx2PgYfO6rsEERRkXagVVv_61kszXEg1NEJoKP3cw-olzdQbJXfKrm6ofBM2Ohy-bL5pajRS3knKugWVRuwsZ1HvKvaoNKViwM6O9QNZSrJog/s1600/IMG_3593crop.png" title="Laundry out of doors" /></a></div>
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As time was short I decided to mount the bicycle on the original welded supports that I'd fabricated some years before, for our original pedal washing machine.<br />
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
I positioned the machine on the pallet with the driven i.e. the chain wheel side nearer the long central axis of the pallet. This pallet was the one that had supported the previous washing machine and measured 140cm x 80cm. I set the two metal support frames in the approximate position and lowered the bike onto the supports. I had cut a length of threaded bar (10mm - ⅜") to fit each support and the front and rear fork ends of the bicycle were the support points. The fork ends were fixed in place with nuts. Once the chain wheel of the bicycle was aligned with that on the washing machine I could check that the height of the bike above the pallet allowed a clearance for the pedals to rotate and that there was a gap between the pedal and the front panel of the machine to allow the foot to not catch on the panel.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7xnqtlYx0A7_idQbShltCwR5e1fqUACfc4Q47Reod2igLsCxzlcwquoqC8N51JJmKPEv9md5FUThMDvIW9bkIBkGHfBvWV1LtTVB-k9VjUmzDdZOvtC9vU85IO3dqysqflHz-aZgr7ZU/s1600/Screenshot+from+MVI_3576.MOV.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Converting a washing machine to pedal power" border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1280" height="403" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7xnqtlYx0A7_idQbShltCwR5e1fqUACfc4Q47Reod2igLsCxzlcwquoqC8N51JJmKPEv9md5FUThMDvIW9bkIBkGHfBvWV1LtTVB-k9VjUmzDdZOvtC9vU85IO3dqysqflHz-aZgr7ZU/s640/Screenshot+from+MVI_3576.MOV.png" title="Checking the layout" width="715" /></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
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Now that I had the relative positions of the two components and confirmed they would fit on the pallet, I could then fix them in place.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYjPNNDKJzpj9YdUwa7qDFDw9WM8ZL1XRk4_gWG7UrzlH1wRdv3Hnxgm4gfUBYgVcWgypXuALS6WqMmvOURI4AHGNwXuEWIlitJENAXAOX1GlQPRMZ99o-waKw7sOstmqoSOQXVM726_g/s1600/Screenshot+from+MVI_3583.MOV.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Converting your washing machine to pedal power" border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1280" height="403" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYjPNNDKJzpj9YdUwa7qDFDw9WM8ZL1XRk4_gWG7UrzlH1wRdv3Hnxgm4gfUBYgVcWgypXuALS6WqMmvOURI4AHGNwXuEWIlitJENAXAOX1GlQPRMZ99o-waKw7sOstmqoSOQXVM726_g/s640/Screenshot+from+MVI_3583.MOV.png" title="Removing the levelling feet" width="715" /></a></div>
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For the machine I decided to attach two pallet planks to the machine's underside and screw them to the pallet. Turning the machine over I removed the 4 leveling feet from the machine. These screwed into 8mm threaded holes in the corners. I noticed that two of these feet were not square to the machine's base and could see that the corner plates had been twisted. By screwing the feet partway back into the holes it was easy to gently tap the feet back to the vertical. The mounting planks were drilled and mounted onto the machine underside. Note that I had counter bored clearance holes so that the 8mm bolt heads were recessed.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI8VeceVNRWrILqjKb1So4DT9uaUJJTnXcukSXZ3CXtoM3D2UIuyQttpul4ygjx9XZbxOHKAU8MfelRsFxxWY8ytt1DPkYYeI9FCzBcGkN8CEWoeXnIWDs1CCuF4TL-ajCkopqTMZ1ax8/s1600/Screenshot+from+MVI_3588.MOV.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="DIY washing machine conversion to pedal power" border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1280" height="403" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI8VeceVNRWrILqjKb1So4DT9uaUJJTnXcukSXZ3CXtoM3D2UIuyQttpul4ygjx9XZbxOHKAU8MfelRsFxxWY8ytt1DPkYYeI9FCzBcGkN8CEWoeXnIWDs1CCuF4TL-ajCkopqTMZ1ax8/s640/Screenshot+from+MVI_3588.MOV.JPG" title="Attaching the machine to the pallet" width="715" /></a></div>
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Putting the machine back in its place on the pallet I marked and drilled two holes in the plank at the rear of the machine and through the pallets' planks. I'd realised that there was no need to fix the machine with bolts in the other plank (at the front face of the machine) because the forces acting on it from the pedaling action would only try to lift the rear of it up. The two holes in the rear plank were then slotted 2" (50mm) long so that it would be possible to move the machine towards or away from the bicycle, this was so as to give me a means to adjust the chain tension and to correct any alignment error. I used ¼"(6mm) dia. carriage bolts to anchor the machine.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsSgF3m0PJXMLX17iDTRvYsOASiu_bp8XWEZ-FvUava5jgPUgycnNHKyo3iHAWqb4WehM4rH3KcFT4baMlQYj5CDvWDGGHBNc5gwYyu4MCZTnCYQBgaXNvKJT4ndJJBGV2a4JuPvkio28/s1600/Screenshot+from+MVI_3603.MOV.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Get fit with a bicycle driven washing machine" border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1280" height="402" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsSgF3m0PJXMLX17iDTRvYsOASiu_bp8XWEZ-FvUava5jgPUgycnNHKyo3iHAWqb4WehM4rH3KcFT4baMlQYj5CDvWDGGHBNc5gwYyu4MCZTnCYQBgaXNvKJT4ndJJBGV2a4JuPvkio28/s640/Screenshot+from+MVI_3603.MOV.png" title="Exhibition day" width="715" /></a></div>
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It was at this point I realised that being a top-loader the lid of the machine would foul on the bicycle handlebar. Because this lid was in such a shabby state, I removed it and replaced it with a piece of wood that I could slide into place. For the purposes of the coming exhibition, I used a piece of clear rigid plastic so as to afford spectators the pleasure of seeing the drum going around.<br />
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The bicycle and its support frames was then put back into place on the pallet. Prior to screwing the supports to the pallet, I checked the alignment of the two chain wheels (that on the bike and the machine). Simply by looking along the pallet using the face of the machine chain wheel as a guide I could see if the alignment was good. If this step is not undertaken then it is very likely that the chain will not stay in place when cycling. Once satisfied, the supports were screwed to the pallet - there were already holes drilled in the supports' bases from the previous incarnation of the set-up.<br />
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I had to extend the bike chain by a few inches to make it fit the layout. Once fitted, I adjusted the chain tension and fixed the washing machine in place.<br />
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We were now ready to wash!!!!!!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTwTOoHBzLBO_vtCXjGKW2FYnhEvVdfzgBe5Oz0-4cW426ugL6ALULd51oHAWWVWqxuy4rU1cjgl8_Vz_hBNlLTF51LBIk3I50XWpUf7Tq4qqTgD2F-hu0vu_4Y6Jh2oOMnD0q_p5WAXs/s1600/IMG_3607BLOG.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="using pedal power to do your laundry" border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="436" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTwTOoHBzLBO_vtCXjGKW2FYnhEvVdfzgBe5Oz0-4cW426ugL6ALULd51oHAWWVWqxuy4rU1cjgl8_Vz_hBNlLTF51LBIk3I50XWpUf7Tq4qqTgD2F-hu0vu_4Y6Jh2oOMnD0q_p5WAXs/s640/IMG_3607BLOG.JPG" title="Exhibition over " width="715" /></a></div>
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The first real test of the pedal powered washing machine arose the next day when the whole machine, pallet and bicycle were transported to the organic supermarket for the exhibition. Watch the results in the following video.<br />
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<iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/AxTvHKcbZDE" width="560"></iframe></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPoBTUgjdF_AqW-BzrUvSIhOmaBGsHIaKy4ixdvNp5IikS9ZHiLiAu1BJBGVow56jrhHWh-HPmxLVRN8Km4tuGt0Olz2j9Uyd8_bBBmE3OvGje_pd3cd6W4ftcTtfnEOeAqk06wUyFMZQ/s1600/Screenshot+from+MVI_3602.MOVcrop.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Reusing an old washing machine" border="0" data-original-height="715" data-original-width="706" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPoBTUgjdF_AqW-BzrUvSIhOmaBGsHIaKy4ixdvNp5IikS9ZHiLiAu1BJBGVow56jrhHWh-HPmxLVRN8Km4tuGt0Olz2j9Uyd8_bBBmE3OvGje_pd3cd6W4ftcTtfnEOeAqk06wUyFMZQ/s320/Screenshot+from+MVI_3602.MOVcrop.png" title="Exhibition weekend" width="315" /></a>The link to the next part of the conversion can be found below.</div>
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If you read this article and found it interesting then share it with your friends on social media or suchlike. Please also feel free to ask questions and or make comments and if you found this helpful and would like to support this site you can always <a href="https://ko-fi.com/X8X01EDNU" target="_blank"><img alt="Buy Me a Coffee at ko-fi.com" border="0" height="36" src="https://az743702.vo.msecnd.net/cdn/kofi3.png?v=2" style="border: 0px; height: 36px;" /></a></p><div style="text-align: justify;">You can also find all my films <a href="https://www.youtube.com/user/Organikmechanic"><b>Youtube</b></a> and also now on <a href="https://odysee.com/$/invite/@Organikmechanic:0" target="_blank"><b>Odysee</b></a> </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Until next time and from a sunny day in Normandie,</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Cheers, Andy</div><br style="text-align: justify;" /><span style="text-align: justify;">© Andy Colley 2019</span><p></p><p></p></div>
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RELATED ARTICLES</h2>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiadTcc5NtOnjOZ5OonEprafcTeT-waaSIRktoZUkvEhr1e32Aqeqh7JjWFDLBvpsgY-NOA9uHhAWLPKpEqEPogy-b8QiOOJAOQSMlYwx0wKtAAP5VmPXIU5gKybjjLVQa9N7-KaDftA_U/s1600/IMG_3758blog.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="477" data-original-width="715" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiadTcc5NtOnjOZ5OonEprafcTeT-waaSIRktoZUkvEhr1e32Aqeqh7JjWFDLBvpsgY-NOA9uHhAWLPKpEqEPogy-b8QiOOJAOQSMlYwx0wKtAAP5VmPXIU5gKybjjLVQa9N7-KaDftA_U/s200/IMG_3758blog.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
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Converting Your Washing Machine to Pedal Power Part 5 - Wooden Supports
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The important dimension was the height of the stand necessary to obtain
the clearance between the pedal at its lowest point and the pallet. In
my case this was<b><a href="https://thegreenlever.blogspot.com/2019/11/convert-your-washing-machine-to-pedal_28.html#.Xd-zIXfk-V4" target="_blank">...read more</a>
</b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2sMcUFAm6Mkwoe0GBHxVeVcWrFSWLKqfOjFtGYbcZTw5h7YehLAFcdUenkDM0YotP5-jOw-2VA9O3Cn1hIOMAqDD1Rs4g1YOQRWbR-vsP1DR63PpTUxrzlhhQ0yxmEindtVmjmok7-0U/s1600/Screenshot+from+MVI_3925.MOVcrop.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1028" height="140" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2sMcUFAm6Mkwoe0GBHxVeVcWrFSWLKqfOjFtGYbcZTw5h7YehLAFcdUenkDM0YotP5-jOw-2VA9O3Cn1hIOMAqDD1Rs4g1YOQRWbR-vsP1DR63PpTUxrzlhhQ0yxmEindtVmjmok7-0U/s200/Screenshot+from+MVI_3925.MOVcrop.png" width="200" /></a><br />Convert Your Washing Machine to Pedal Power Part 1 - Getting Started (Top-Loader)</h2>
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The
most frequent reasons for machine failure is of an electrical or
electronic nature. Neither of these preclude using it, as long as the
drum is watertight. Even if you don't already own a broken machine I can....<b><a href="https://thegreenlever.blogspot.com/2018/08/convert-your-washing-machine-to-pedal.html#.W3Rd_hqYOkA" target="_blank">read more</a></b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiChAr-p4GMDbdwiumT1jjOBHOsOLJ5k7GCGlf4caScdoOnQgmc_XsYR9PVuQ9heGvOvKGJ4eYMLWSsFkczZIhUUkOHGy0_GpYlLjt0oBrN5pudMDVaJHErGMsIaMCvKZDGB9ETvNDI0cA/s1600/P1070521.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiChAr-p4GMDbdwiumT1jjOBHOsOLJ5k7GCGlf4caScdoOnQgmc_XsYR9PVuQ9heGvOvKGJ4eYMLWSsFkczZIhUUkOHGy0_GpYlLjt0oBrN5pudMDVaJHErGMsIaMCvKZDGB9ETvNDI0cA/s200/P1070521.JPG" width="200" /></a>How to Convert your Washing Machine to Pedal Power 1 - The Basic Model (Front-Loader)</h2>
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The electronic fault that arose in our automatic washing machine
rendered it useless. I knew that the machine was watertight and...<b><a href="http://thegreenlever.blogspot.fr/2015/12/how-to-convert-your-washing-machine-to_10.html#.Vmlz4npVK1E" target="_blank">read more</a></b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2GG7-nUwePS48dO3Letd7FRYpSXVaPxOJvpUYcGcTDf1xozLG_KtzfSS3Gqd5uSJIP8JL0O7XSiI8Fzc2eHUe5romSapV9D0Al-sUrptoo17lLKtEyfXbFr6wUnEkMai-4P6LRuTWFNg/s1600/IMG_3144.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2GG7-nUwePS48dO3Letd7FRYpSXVaPxOJvpUYcGcTDf1xozLG_KtzfSS3Gqd5uSJIP8JL0O7XSiI8Fzc2eHUe5romSapV9D0Al-sUrptoo17lLKtEyfXbFr6wUnEkMai-4P6LRuTWFNg/s200/IMG_3144.JPG" width="200" /></a>How to Convert your Washing Machine to Pedal Power 2 - Modifications (Front-Loader)</h2>
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We’ve exhibited this machine on many occasions and the most frequent
comment from spectators has been ‘let’s see you spin dry now!’...<b><a href="http://thegreenlever.blogspot.fr/2015/12/how-to-convert-your-washing-machine-to.html#.VmrzDnpVK1E" target="_blank">read more</a></b></div>
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<br />The Green Leverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01335293795269368752noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3199850434720533796.post-3275422212362092112019-11-18T19:53:00.004+01:002023-08-08T14:55:46.029+02:00Convert Your Washing Machine to Pedal Power Part 3 - Putting it Back Together (Top-Loader)<div style="text-align: justify;">
Now that the machine was stripped of the superfluous bits I could start to get it ready for bicycle power. If you've just landed on this project then Part One can be found <b><a href="https://thegreenlever.blogspot.com/2018/08/convert-your-washing-machine-to-pedal.html#.XdPZU3fk-V5" target="_blank">here</a></b>.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidwgIgO_rlJGjSX2KCQW9seNV315_dqpoxUI3NxCwn7ewcPhcw_huzd0j4WqfXl1VYqbcXLWuN2Y6TMPk41NRrtGLIAXvxIP_qk4lv24NlqIc_gdLbyAqrIecW2VUuY28JoLPxkc_6CQ0/s1600/brackets.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="How to make a bicycle-powered washing machine" border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1280" height="402" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidwgIgO_rlJGjSX2KCQW9seNV315_dqpoxUI3NxCwn7ewcPhcw_huzd0j4WqfXl1VYqbcXLWuN2Y6TMPk41NRrtGLIAXvxIP_qk4lv24NlqIc_gdLbyAqrIecW2VUuY28JoLPxkc_6CQ0/s640/brackets.png" title="Useful brackets" width="715" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Reusing the Brackets</span></h2>
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Our old pedal-powered front loader had the drum held in place with wooden wedges bracing the drum against the walls of the machine. For this new machine I wanted something more robust. Therefore, the first stage was to modify the old brackets so that they could rigidly attach the drum to the front and rear walls of the machine. In the previous article I showed how I recuperated some very useful steel brackets from the concrete ballast weights. The original holes that were used to secure the weights to the drum could still be used for that purpose. I measured the distance from the drum mounting hole and the rear panel and bent the bracket to a right angle, such that the bent end of the bracket would rest against the wall panel of the machine.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq5Y1p_xwFNVBvwAMasEjsJR1muw9i6zQZEdwEmojV3TdbVanYJHICwkItp5Xor6swU0B295pccPzRL4ujFQunKGENQqWdvkW_meBZ7baiuMlFGy9VVR74bVZ0ju1wsYQf-PyxJ4rRpeU/s1600/Screenshot+from+MVI_3551.MOV.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="DIY washing machine conversion to pedal power" border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1280" height="402" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq5Y1p_xwFNVBvwAMasEjsJR1muw9i6zQZEdwEmojV3TdbVanYJHICwkItp5Xor6swU0B295pccPzRL4ujFQunKGENQqWdvkW_meBZ7baiuMlFGy9VVR74bVZ0ju1wsYQf-PyxJ4rRpeU/s640/Screenshot+from+MVI_3551.MOV.png" title="Measuring the offset" width="715" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Securing the Drum</span></h2>
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Before I started to drill the 4 fixing holes in the front and rear panels/walls of the machine, I wanted to ensure that the drum which was now supported entirely by four springs was sitting vertically in the machine. By putting the machine on a pallet and packing under the support feet, I could determine with a spirit level that the machine was vertical and thus the drum axis was horizontal and was not twisting on the springs. This meant that once rigidly attached to the supporting walls the forces from the drum would not be anything except the drum's own weight i.e. there would be little or no twisting force which could ultimately distort the wall panels.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6mQtnre2Tkl_UmsQsM3SMNaL7MAxqLbq09QV1tcaYB-P3AKRr7IO5ueePw8IXDjx1_H0cx4wUx4rLhyphenhyphenohDfKWzSayNF9qwwDs4U8tM5ZBo9fJRu0FDcnkgOLSmBBnsC60tMUmubcFbWs/s1600/Drill+and+mark.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Washing machine conversion to pedal power" border="0" data-original-height="402" data-original-width="715" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6mQtnre2Tkl_UmsQsM3SMNaL7MAxqLbq09QV1tcaYB-P3AKRr7IO5ueePw8IXDjx1_H0cx4wUx4rLhyphenhyphenohDfKWzSayNF9qwwDs4U8tM5ZBo9fJRu0FDcnkgOLSmBBnsC60tMUmubcFbWs/s1600/Drill+and+mark.png" title="Fitting the first bracket" /></a></div>
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I secured the first bracket to the lower hole in the drum (there were two upper and two lower holes on each side of the drum to hold the ballast weights) and measured the position for the fixing hole on the wall panel. This position was transferred to the outside face of the panel so that I could drill a pilot hole followed by the bolt clearance hole. Next, I used a marker pen through the clearance hole to mark the face of the bracket. The bracket was then removed from the drum and the hole for the anchoring bolt was drilled in it. The bracket was bolted back onto the drum and the first anchoring bolt was put in and tightened so that already the drum was unable to move. The three other brackets were similarly attached and their mounting holes drilled and secured to the wall panels. It was interesting to note that the machine was feeling rigid once more because the drum was now acting as part of the structure.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbuKDlCKOObKlzR0ghbrOo1Ggha26yGbXfA89D3tpLh6si0w6-ue7eQ1SeTwSmKq30vWJIajVJhmMSuX0OTlj0vpnqUufXPL5pkIryy0pP6divcpNuwjBCcE6oKBsn9pbhk8XRjNd0KeI/s1600/Screenshot+from+MVI_3546.MOV.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Diy biycle powered washing machine" border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1280" height="402" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbuKDlCKOObKlzR0ghbrOo1Ggha26yGbXfA89D3tpLh6si0w6-ue7eQ1SeTwSmKq30vWJIajVJhmMSuX0OTlj0vpnqUufXPL5pkIryy0pP6divcpNuwjBCcE6oKBsn9pbhk8XRjNd0KeI/s640/Screenshot+from+MVI_3546.MOV.png" title="Drum bracket" width="715" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Fitting the Chainwheel Mounting Block</span></h2>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-TQJSHdZaXGWPhTaY1OaeGJWt655hNPgbDcKoAOwjOMiReRQRGEWFrNcJ1Mx0sVSmanitE9twyRi3dqckQP3WUnHxxhxa8TV4CnI21WQfU5a5qP5AOxrHiVU2qBwBPtoDENzUCWRAiB8/s1600/Screenshot+from+MVI_3554.MOV+-+3.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-TQJSHdZaXGWPhTaY1OaeGJWt655hNPgbDcKoAOwjOMiReRQRGEWFrNcJ1Mx0sVSmanitE9twyRi3dqckQP3WUnHxxhxa8TV4CnI21WQfU5a5qP5AOxrHiVU2qBwBPtoDENzUCWRAiB8/s1600/Screenshot+from+MVI_3554.MOV+-+3.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Off the grid washing machine" border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1280" height="402" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-TQJSHdZaXGWPhTaY1OaeGJWt655hNPgbDcKoAOwjOMiReRQRGEWFrNcJ1Mx0sVSmanitE9twyRi3dqckQP3WUnHxxhxa8TV4CnI21WQfU5a5qP5AOxrHiVU2qBwBPtoDENzUCWRAiB8/s640/Screenshot+from+MVI_3554.MOV+-+3.png" title="Fitting the chainwheel" width="715" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCgTppN02N9TK3AAhHJW_vsV_MY9a-WId5Kelm81NC5lfcRFhbQO8hn9wh39DimiWeL4ztS-poDrF1nYvy0JOQq0PgccEGvVL0jgf8Es9uuio806KUM8HMSs70T69Ut3eCXAurJAOyviU/s1600/Screenshot+crop.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Pedal-powered washing machine" border="0" data-original-height="486" data-original-width="499" height="311" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCgTppN02N9TK3AAhHJW_vsV_MY9a-WId5Kelm81NC5lfcRFhbQO8hn9wh39DimiWeL4ztS-poDrF1nYvy0JOQq0PgccEGvVL0jgf8Es9uuio806KUM8HMSs70T69Ut3eCXAurJAOyviU/s320/Screenshot+crop.png" title="Drilling the mounting hole" width="320" /></a>
The chainwheel which was taken from the first bicycle washing machine was to be attached to the face of the drum shaft pulley. I needed the chainwheel to be offset from the pulley face so that with the sidewall in place the chainwheel would be on the outside of the machine body.<br />
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I determined I needed an offset of 1" (25mm) and cut a square from a suitable piece of pallet wood. The block was to be screwed to the pulley and to attach the whole to the drum shaft I needed to drill a clearance hole for the socket that would be used when fitting the chainwheel.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3PMuL_ApuvJlmr_YXFhyphenhyphenW4gKe72EJIH9RkFik01vzPawV-Vg4JS-sjPjK1xNE-bcaG9GqrpK1GPxyk7bYlzXiawx69p75t2SCJ5995BTe_4w6cnWRDLsxiJJts5MSjtWN8qOZmv8gShI/s1600/Joint+wheel.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Go green with a bicycle-powered washing machine" border="0" data-original-height="402" data-original-width="715" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3PMuL_ApuvJlmr_YXFhyphenhyphenW4gKe72EJIH9RkFik01vzPawV-Vg4JS-sjPjK1xNE-bcaG9GqrpK1GPxyk7bYlzXiawx69p75t2SCJ5995BTe_4w6cnWRDLsxiJJts5MSjtWN8qOZmv8gShI/s1600/Joint+wheel.png" title="Cleaning up the pulley" /></a></div>
When I laid the block onto the pulley I noticed a slight rocking and determined this arose from some casting marks on the pulley face. I remedied this with a flat file. The holes for the screws were drilled in the three pulley wheel spokes. For added security I put two screws in each spoke. The block was held to the pulley face with some strong spring clamps and was then screwed. I kept checking the block position because initially. it did shift a little. Once attached I decided to cut the block to a rough octagon instead of a square as this would mean a smaller hole would be needed to be cut in the side panel.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjv7c0Bgt4tMgl15NIUHTF-vBatyb9tNp-w84hSKsBomFGIvKm3SLbqghfcu6ppSjqyrq5MB77AH5iKliLuVliz4Ds8Bouu8CsZspWYr5VI71_3y7WWPrmJMI5_tEy1DNHY0xQpb63YZNg/s1600/Wheel.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Converting a screp washing machine to bicycle power" border="0" data-original-height="402" data-original-width="715" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjv7c0Bgt4tMgl15NIUHTF-vBatyb9tNp-w84hSKsBomFGIvKm3SLbqghfcu6ppSjqyrq5MB77AH5iKliLuVliz4Ds8Bouu8CsZspWYr5VI71_3y7WWPrmJMI5_tEy1DNHY0xQpb63YZNg/s1600/Wheel.png" title="Drilling the pulley" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrH4VLmHWQFap2G3GiOAy5E7-PtxYbfRgLeuDS8uMBevyLKTmzfokKlapsWXw8bKvSVvy9YhpbTUOfr3PkurcrQYrX-2Pm3rUjnKqrcSrr6GSUDgLxP1_RYSqHSAIMZqxxlUIvSAJ7EKk/s1600/Wheel2.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Re-use a scrap washing machine" border="0" data-original-height="402" data-original-width="715" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrH4VLmHWQFap2G3GiOAy5E7-PtxYbfRgLeuDS8uMBevyLKTmzfokKlapsWXw8bKvSVvy9YhpbTUOfr3PkurcrQYrX-2Pm3rUjnKqrcSrr6GSUDgLxP1_RYSqHSAIMZqxxlUIvSAJ7EKk/s1600/Wheel2.png" title="Fitting the chainwheel mounting block" /></a></div>
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Finally, I cut the spokes that extended beyond the block perimeter as the pulley would now be superfluous. In the attached video I highlighted an error in my technique in that I should have kept the pulley in one piece so that I could attach the chainwheel as concentrically as possible by measuring its perimeter to the pulley perimeter. As you will see I did hit upon another solution to this by attaching the block to the axle and by rotating the drum, drew concentric circles on the block face. These circles would aid in fitting the chainwheel as centrally as possible on the block. Once I had aligned the chainwheel to these circles I screwed it to the block. By fixing the assembly to the axle I could check how centrally I'd attached the wheel simply by spinning the drum and looking for any eccentricity.</div>
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<iframe frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="//ws-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/q?ServiceVersion=20070822&OneJS=1&Operation=GetAdHtml&MarketPlace=US&source=ss&ref=as_ss_li_til&ad_type=product_link&tracking_id=thegreenlever-20&language=en_US&marketplace=amazon&region=US&placement=B00WLVV2YE&asins=B00WLVV2YE&linkId=9a9a31c2b3943e025e818619c397a607&show_border=true&link_opens_in_new_window=true" style="height: 240px; width: 120px;"></iframe><iframe frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="//ws-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/q?ServiceVersion=20070822&OneJS=1&Operation=GetAdHtml&MarketPlace=US&source=ss&ref=as_ss_li_til&ad_type=product_link&tracking_id=thegreenlever-20&language=en_US&marketplace=amazon&region=US&placement=B07D8DVJW6&asins=B07D8DVJW6&linkId=008aeff481dc8fbefdf202c3d187740e&show_border=true&link_opens_in_new_window=true" style="height: 240px; width: 120px;"></iframe><iframe frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="//ws-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/q?ServiceVersion=20070822&OneJS=1&Operation=GetAdHtml&MarketPlace=US&source=ss&ref=as_ss_li_til&ad_type=product_link&tracking_id=thegreenlever-20&language=en_US&marketplace=amazon&region=US&placement=B00OJ72LHK&asins=B00OJ72LHK&linkId=8a254da5e817127c5275d87fb4ddcfa9&show_border=true&link_opens_in_new_window=true" style="height: 240px; width: 120px;"></iframe><iframe frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="//ws-eu.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/q?ServiceVersion=20070822&OneJS=1&Operation=GetAdHtml&MarketPlace=GB&source=ss&ref=as_ss_li_til&ad_type=product_link&tracking_id=thegrelev-21&marketplace=amazon&region=GB&placement=B07338KF65&asins=B07338KF65&linkId=ce7b50f7742059fc3d8c2b72656c3a0e&show_border=true&link_opens_in_new_window=true" style="height: 240px; width: 120px;"></iframe><iframe frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="//ws-eu.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/q?ServiceVersion=20070822&OneJS=1&Operation=GetAdHtml&MarketPlace=GB&source=ss&ref=as_ss_li_til&ad_type=product_link&tracking_id=thegrelev-21&marketplace=amazon&region=GB&placement=B003UES794&asins=B003UES794&linkId=75cdedf992eccf7f2177e705a83ddfc0&show_border=true&link_opens_in_new_window=true" style="height: 240px; width: 120px;"></iframe>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Chainwheel Assembly to the Machine</span> </h2>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilY_VMPRrtP5RbKQYEmubS89ddCJ8weUWv4ezUrxPex5WhoqFnJ0-_LdbIAoIpPhPTWDI4FT1larJzjH6miWo7ovwaaxZRp2opHywz4oky3Fllp6R6WQvDGbpMOHDaRpvZ44nA07DWn5o/s1600/Screenshot+from+MVI_3564.MOV+-+1.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Converting your old washing machine to bicycle power" border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1280" height="402" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilY_VMPRrtP5RbKQYEmubS89ddCJ8weUWv4ezUrxPex5WhoqFnJ0-_LdbIAoIpPhPTWDI4FT1larJzjH6miWo7ovwaaxZRp2opHywz4oky3Fllp6R6WQvDGbpMOHDaRpvZ44nA07DWn5o/s640/Screenshot+from+MVI_3564.MOV+-+1.png" title="Measuring the position for the hole" width="715" /></a></div>
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I next cut the hole in the side panel to enable the fitting of the block. I measured the drum axle centre distance from the washing machine frame and transferred this position onto the panel. I scribed a circle centred on this position to the clearance diameter of the block and used a jigsaw with a metal cutting blade to cut the hole.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4qKaRYlfhV09WWWGGvgh7eKVCZXa_WfkL85opF7ipRIOiloVZ_rYh7JrmYKMdDiYsQXK7GCd7X4Vlm8iuNQZF1E-nbCL6pXZACEJE_UuD93u4GnaknXzpBDKtrVMEYfwSHeE2U8xCFyg/s1600/Tripple.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Washing machine from scrap" border="0" data-original-height="402" data-original-width="715" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4qKaRYlfhV09WWWGGvgh7eKVCZXa_WfkL85opF7ipRIOiloVZ_rYh7JrmYKMdDiYsQXK7GCd7X4Vlm8iuNQZF1E-nbCL6pXZACEJE_UuD93u4GnaknXzpBDKtrVMEYfwSHeE2U8xCFyg/s1600/Tripple.png" title="Marking, cutting and deburring" /></a></div>
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Once I'd de-burred the hole edges I refitted the panel to the machine and attached the block to the axle.</div>
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Finally, to complete this stage of the project I attached the other side panel to the machine. I was now ready to start assembling the machine and bicycle onto the pallet.</div>
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Here's the film of this part of the process:<br />
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<iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/j1jiL9hP3jA" width="560"></iframe>
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<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
If
you have enjoyed this article and found it interesting then share it
with your friends on social media or suchlike. Please also feel free to
ask questions and or make comments and if you found this helpful and would like to support this site you can always <a href="https://ko-fi.com/X8X01EDNU" target="_blank"><img alt="Buy Me a Coffee at ko-fi.com" border="0" height="36" src="https://az743702.vo.msecnd.net/cdn/kofi3.png?v=2" style="border: 0px; height: 36px;" /></a></div>
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Until next time and from a sunny day in Normandie,</div>
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<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Cheers, Andy</div>
<br />
© Andy Colley 2019<br />
<br />
<h2>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLWS67wIp2EKTqMWH7Ta7B9T7COoE5VQi1qFN-9MFrVuDLNGrYYm2yyTliqIZ-rdwzPD85sdSMgogilazgvO1DHX4j6JsrBhuZ1NkB98JB3S2AwiJb9xUMXu8nRRtm9-CDsJREgJjzsL0/s1600/IMG_3593crop.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="459" data-original-width="715" height="128" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLWS67wIp2EKTqMWH7Ta7B9T7COoE5VQi1qFN-9MFrVuDLNGrYYm2yyTliqIZ-rdwzPD85sdSMgogilazgvO1DHX4j6JsrBhuZ1NkB98JB3S2AwiJb9xUMXu8nRRtm9-CDsJREgJjzsL0/s200/IMG_3593crop.png" width="200" /></a>Converting Your Washing Machine to Pedal Power Part 4
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiChAr-p4GMDbdwiumT1jjOBHOsOLJ5k7GCGlf4caScdoOnQgmc_XsYR9PVuQ9heGvOvKGJ4eYMLWSsFkczZIhUUkOHGy0_GpYlLjt0oBrN5pudMDVaJHErGMsIaMCvKZDGB9ETvNDI0cA/s1600/P1070521.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiChAr-p4GMDbdwiumT1jjOBHOsOLJ5k7GCGlf4caScdoOnQgmc_XsYR9PVuQ9heGvOvKGJ4eYMLWSsFkczZIhUUkOHGy0_GpYlLjt0oBrN5pudMDVaJHErGMsIaMCvKZDGB9ETvNDI0cA/s200/P1070521.JPG" width="200" /></a>How to Convert your Washing Machine to Pedal Power 1 - The Basic Model (Front-Loader)</h2>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
The electronic fault that arose in our automatic washing machine
rendered it useless. I knew that the machine was watertight and...<b><a href="http://thegreenlever.blogspot.fr/2015/12/how-to-convert-your-washing-machine-to_10.html#.Vmlz4npVK1E" target="_blank">read more</a></b></div>
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<h2>
</h2>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2GG7-nUwePS48dO3Letd7FRYpSXVaPxOJvpUYcGcTDf1xozLG_KtzfSS3Gqd5uSJIP8JL0O7XSiI8Fzc2eHUe5romSapV9D0Al-sUrptoo17lLKtEyfXbFr6wUnEkMai-4P6LRuTWFNg/s1600/IMG_3144.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2GG7-nUwePS48dO3Letd7FRYpSXVaPxOJvpUYcGcTDf1xozLG_KtzfSS3Gqd5uSJIP8JL0O7XSiI8Fzc2eHUe5romSapV9D0Al-sUrptoo17lLKtEyfXbFr6wUnEkMai-4P6LRuTWFNg/s200/IMG_3144.JPG" width="200" /></a>How to Convert your Washing Machine to Pedal Power 2 - Modifications (Front-Loader)</h2>
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<br />The Green Leverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01335293795269368752noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3199850434720533796.post-18881407399443094252019-10-01T15:07:00.000+02:002020-07-07T14:33:19.418+02:00DIY Low light sights for a rifle made from scrap LEDs<div style="text-align: justify;">
I purchased a .177 'springer' air rifle some years ago to control vermin in our garden/backyard. I'd had considerable success with this method until this year when it was evident that the rats were coming out to search for any surplus grain left in the poultry feed bowls at a much later time of day, that is, dusk. Furthermore, when they couldn't find any they started to attack our vegetables and more worryingly our quail. As my rifle has only the original iron sights on it, I found it difficult to see the sights in such low light but I could still see the rat! I tried painting the foresight with white paint which helped but only by a few minutes longer than before.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz36f54u-3bz_hYs2vibQGVygEPVXyaHbK7VqUEA-9tgQnlK1HHDZYsn1ORm_vaSSVMDWPJm80_Yz4TruX5_XFdqEuVn08alo2pMkguFv9LIaTMlW-la9tYBB6CC6IM2y8NgBrqV-dL3g/s1600/IMG_8374BLOG.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Make your own low light sights " border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="477" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz36f54u-3bz_hYs2vibQGVygEPVXyaHbK7VqUEA-9tgQnlK1HHDZYsn1ORm_vaSSVMDWPJm80_Yz4TruX5_XFdqEuVn08alo2pMkguFv9LIaTMlW-la9tYBB6CC6IM2y8NgBrqV-dL3g/s640/IMG_8374BLOG.JPG" title="Finished rifle with low light sights" width="715" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMamNN8xoQZUPNlTPgavKvwIOISSSW-EImrUY3xf7_-Xxeslh0xRXR4wyOUbZQB65LjXmD5km6kR1dAQmW1z57D6wfoBL14-ZHPonrpddi6RFFw76mHkQ37DE2bGvHou_3w4IWZjrIZYU/s1600/IMG_8323crop.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Low light sights for free" border="0" data-original-height="946" data-original-width="1600" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMamNN8xoQZUPNlTPgavKvwIOISSSW-EImrUY3xf7_-Xxeslh0xRXR4wyOUbZQB65LjXmD5km6kR1dAQmW1z57D6wfoBL14-ZHPonrpddi6RFFw76mHkQ37DE2bGvHou_3w4IWZjrIZYU/s640/IMG_8323crop.JPG" title="Low light sights in operation" width="715" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6uvkoTQJiXYxvODsHjdKc03Bj9MvpdoymqojiiEpm_1PQcfccgervoQ-fcJ-lQUAeDvGz2RwjCsP8MA8Ku6SjuzXZrc1VZ5ru6jnaYugE1j5IZHui8fUt6rlqJII5-sfnynadye6KCfs/s1600/IMG_6113crop.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="DIY low light rifle sights" border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1233" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6uvkoTQJiXYxvODsHjdKc03Bj9MvpdoymqojiiEpm_1PQcfccgervoQ-fcJ-lQUAeDvGz2RwjCsP8MA8Ku6SjuzXZrc1VZ5ru6jnaYugE1j5IZHui8fUt6rlqJII5-sfnynadye6KCfs/s400/IMG_6113crop.JPG" title="Christmas decoration" width="306" /></a></div>
By a coincidence, we were tidying up the plants at the front of the house and I came across a few inches of LED lights that were used to decorate the foliage at the front of the house at Christmas. I started to think about using LEDs to illuminate both my sights and ducked into the workshop to rummage around in my 'not quite ready to go to the dump' collection. The result being that I ended up with a battery pack and a whole string of coloured LEDs that had started to loose lights due to faulty connections.<br />
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I started with the two white LEDs which I'd found by the front door. To establish if these worked, I connected them to a 5V dc source. The tails leading to the lamps looked like bare wire but in fact they were coated in a varnish to insulate them. I removed this with a lighted match and lightly sanded the ends. Sure enough, the LEDs worked.<br />
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<iframe frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="//ws-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/q?ServiceVersion=20070822&OneJS=1&Operation=GetAdHtml&MarketPlace=US&source=ss&ref=as_ss_li_til&ad_type=product_link&tracking_id=thegreenlever-20&marketplace=amazon&region=US&placement=B071NQNZ13&asins=B071NQNZ13&linkId=11ff98a86e9570c7bfc389b0c1af7199&show_border=true&link_opens_in_new_window=true" style="height: 240px; width: 120px;"></iframe><iframe frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="//ws-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/q?ServiceVersion=20070822&OneJS=1&Operation=GetAdHtml&MarketPlace=US&source=ss&ref=as_ss_li_til&ad_type=product_link&tracking_id=thegreenlever-20&marketplace=amazon&region=US&placement=B07Q1P8HWF&asins=B07Q1P8HWF&linkId=65768f657f50bc86361d2569f19c8673&show_border=true&link_opens_in_new_window=true" style="height: 240px; width: 120px;"></iframe><iframe frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="//ws-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/q?ServiceVersion=20070822&OneJS=1&Operation=GetAdHtml&MarketPlace=US&source=ss&ref=as_ss_li_til&ad_type=product_link&tracking_id=thegreenlever-20&marketplace=amazon&region=US&placement=B07YDSVM8C&asins=B07YDSVM8C&linkId=97388024bac85821bc10563c55e86198&show_border=true&link_opens_in_new_window=true" style="height: 240px; width: 120px;"></iframe><iframe frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="//ws-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/q?ServiceVersion=20070822&OneJS=1&Operation=GetAdHtml&MarketPlace=US&source=ss&ref=as_ss_li_til&ad_type=product_link&tracking_id=thegreenlever-20&marketplace=amazon&region=US&placement=B0151ULHX2&asins=B0151ULHX2&linkId=ff203e7a55c72661dbd4dc6357e09245&show_border=true&link_opens_in_new_window=true" style="height: 240px; width: 120px;"></iframe><iframe frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="//ws-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/q?ServiceVersion=20070822&OneJS=1&Operation=GetAdHtml&MarketPlace=US&source=ss&ref=as_ss_li_til&ad_type=product_link&tracking_id=thegreenlever-20&marketplace=amazon&region=US&placement=B072NH2FQ1&asins=B072NH2FQ1&linkId=7ce3c66cfe1ca9b43e8644179e5c8b7e&show_border=true&link_opens_in_new_window=true" style="height: 240px; width: 120px;"></iframe><br />
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I cut off the end LED with sufficient wire for soldering to the battery pack leads. Once cooled, I insulated the connections with PVC tape.
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi15dgeVp1u90XbHBpUgNQuxv0lv00hYELje2wDYf4_dUhWt4xbGw0YUOrHfeogDO6tiCltHI9Cidnujlbf-KhV6-dVz2IpCM6j9tOVAlbC744GPXyCvec7N1k9YaUlTr7yu2gCI9z6jX4/s1600/Screenshot+from+2019-09-30+20-42-02.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Free rifle sights for low light conditions" border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="402" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi15dgeVp1u90XbHBpUgNQuxv0lv00hYELje2wDYf4_dUhWt4xbGw0YUOrHfeogDO6tiCltHI9Cidnujlbf-KhV6-dVz2IpCM6j9tOVAlbC744GPXyCvec7N1k9YaUlTr7yu2gCI9z6jX4/s640/Screenshot+from+2019-09-30+20-42-02.JPG" title="Checking the LED" width="715" /></a></div>
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The next step was to attach this LED to the rifle barrel so that it would illuminate the foresight. Once I was happy with the amount of light hitting the post of the foresight, I fixed the LED in position with PVC tape. It is important to note that the LED had to lie as flat as possible so as not to obstruct the view along the rifle barrel and yet still illuminate the sight. The battery pack was attached to the rifle stock with a single cable tie and the wires from it to the light were taped to the barrel leaving a loop at the hinge so that there was sufficient freedom when cocking the rifle. I ensured the pack did not interfere with how I held the rifle when aiming.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTHoKInJSA5UsePeiWvQMXVZaG8n4xH2T6k-gfgjdCgwJ2GDgOfLl8XAGxKPYK0jO2bJnLmYq1hoWdRgId46s36hzuuvGL-sbiLgZqkjFQFdvXNyzQbff091q8wYIZKEllgXUblj7bi0w/s1600/IMG_8345blog.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Rifle sights for low light for free" border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="477" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTHoKInJSA5UsePeiWvQMXVZaG8n4xH2T6k-gfgjdCgwJ2GDgOfLl8XAGxKPYK0jO2bJnLmYq1hoWdRgId46s36hzuuvGL-sbiLgZqkjFQFdvXNyzQbff091q8wYIZKEllgXUblj7bi0w/s640/IMG_8345blog.JPG" title="Foresight LED " width="715" /></a></div>
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That evening I tried the new arrangement and found the foresight well-illuminated but whilst it was visible at a later hour in the evening, I could not clearly distinguish the rear sight. Back to the workshop for modifications!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjLIVBNRZoOGavpyrxQKgV82ITmE8WlqpzJSruY6uoroyUvM5cj5JjMahHSBdVTH3gPWub7vFYonPxLdQgS8klQEk4nAQ95KaOFPi56Upz4uykCH4R37bY-GqYbNywkhva_yaT6qiSAbw/s1600/IMG_8374crop.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Using LEDs for low light sights" border="0" data-original-height="1028" data-original-width="1584" height="464" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjLIVBNRZoOGavpyrxQKgV82ITmE8WlqpzJSruY6uoroyUvM5cj5JjMahHSBdVTH3gPWub7vFYonPxLdQgS8klQEk4nAQ95KaOFPi56Upz4uykCH4R37bY-GqYbNywkhva_yaT6qiSAbw/s640/IMG_8374crop.JPG" title="Battery pack and rear LED" width="715" /></a></div>
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I decided to have one of the green LED from the string of discarded lights and soldered the bared ends in parallel with the connections to the front sight LED. When I positioned this LED I attached it with PVC tape with a small piece of foam rubber under the front tip so as to tilt it up to illuminate the sight. As most owners of springer rifles know, the rear sight is on the barrel of the gun and so it was important to check that the cocking action and the upswing of the rear of the barrel did not hit the LED.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCoMVvnS9SyTtaZn2sWvZ7r6DXmVfbjbf5TsyQO_04cwsXe_pJhxwwoehfc1f6VpprmSYhu8SuQMVfqL1k0zEu5FYDwDp9XN5QIJM3pMUR1BoccHh2PsLtSap7OKZqQQXNPQhAVM4opR0/s1600/IMG_8348blog.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="LED sight illumination for free" border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="477" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCoMVvnS9SyTtaZn2sWvZ7r6DXmVfbjbf5TsyQO_04cwsXe_pJhxwwoehfc1f6VpprmSYhu8SuQMVfqL1k0zEu5FYDwDp9XN5QIJM3pMUR1BoccHh2PsLtSap7OKZqQQXNPQhAVM4opR0/s640/IMG_8348blog.JPG" title="Position of rear sight LED" width="715" /></a> </div>
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The next opportunity I had at my evening target(s) was a success in that I fired once, one hit, one dead rat! I have repeated this 2 more times, with a hit every time.</div>
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One of the main reasons for the immediate success is that I have not had to change my sighting technique, what worked in full daylight conditions now works to at least 30 minutes after sunset.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7xTmOgLDXLAqm7KSdpHWNuDFBTbwRB3iaO2IB5R2U7tfi0OuhosFVcgQ7QcgyjZJ6XzBUXZ1TDrGJIM6rq25JvXFJFLO2ZUujRl8Ezx8mtC_WOwO39b5L4pHWu9E7hqY5i10h7Qz3_eE/s1600/IMG_3024blog.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Low light LED rifle sights DIY" border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="477" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7xTmOgLDXLAqm7KSdpHWNuDFBTbwRB3iaO2IB5R2U7tfi0OuhosFVcgQ7QcgyjZJ6XzBUXZ1TDrGJIM6rq25JvXFJFLO2ZUujRl8Ezx8mtC_WOwO39b5L4pHWu9E7hqY5i10h7Qz3_eE/s640/IMG_3024blog.JPG" title="Happy quail" width="715" /></a></div>
This modification cost me nothing and the results have been impressive. So, I shall continue with my evening vigils until my uninvited dinner guests take the hint and find a more welcoming dinner table. The Quail are pretty happy too now that their greenhouse is safe again!<br />
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</div>
<h2 style="text-align: center;">
<br />
The Film</h2>
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Until next time and from a sunny day in Normandie,</div>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
Cheers, Andy</div>
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© Andy Colley 2019</div>
<br div="" />The Green Leverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01335293795269368752noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3199850434720533796.post-64534766337423319012019-09-30T18:20:00.000+02:002020-07-07T14:33:34.399+02:00Wheelbarrow Rebuild Using Pallet Wood<div style="text-align: justify;">
A useful and versatile accessory, most of us who garden or undertake DIY projects need a wheelbarrow from time to time. The most familiar, commercially available type is the tubular metal-framed single-wheeled one with a pressed-steel painted or galvanised tray attached. It is this latter component which most often succumbs to corrosion or damage resulting in many of them left to decay in a remote corner of the yard/garden or taken to the 'tip'. Our 'barrow was no exception, and after about 10 years of use, the tray became detached from the frame due to corrosion around the mounting holes.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4GTk2AfcZNYHiHde7WbGXTgFCh8qV74fPqTPDwX6hS_VI6i7uijOXyi-3ZyAoqwaVTVU9OyYnR_9qz2hZFQmWnYJYgWBEY7dk64xcaDLjG1d1PMz3inRWYvviMvH76dowoyodAHk985o/s1600/IMG_8006YTblog.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="How to repair a wheelbarrow using pallet wood" border="0" data-original-height="970" data-original-width="1600" height="433" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4GTk2AfcZNYHiHde7WbGXTgFCh8qV74fPqTPDwX6hS_VI6i7uijOXyi-3ZyAoqwaVTVU9OyYnR_9qz2hZFQmWnYJYgWBEY7dk64xcaDLjG1d1PMz3inRWYvviMvH76dowoyodAHk985o/s640/IMG_8006YTblog.JPG" title="How to repair a wheelbarrow with pallet wood" width="715" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB70U5qilYNK2Dk_o0l7OQ4tIX4xS8QqZZHFYC90qbM-Yw-BOvtYUU3AJ4GjJa4TN9g9QGaB4QmFxyGQ22nfMWxbLHvyCFEHE4vWNLMlTj4jzMCH5g0q6b0PO-sOv2-bPTVht5FpfEyJo/s1600/IMG_8968cropblog.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="How to repair a wheelbarrow with free pallet wood" border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1454" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB70U5qilYNK2Dk_o0l7OQ4tIX4xS8QqZZHFYC90qbM-Yw-BOvtYUU3AJ4GjJa4TN9g9QGaB4QmFxyGQ22nfMWxbLHvyCFEHE4vWNLMlTj4jzMCH5g0q6b0PO-sOv2-bPTVht5FpfEyJo/s400/IMG_8968cropblog.JPG" title="How to repair a wheelbarrow with untreated pallet wood" width="362" /></a></div>
I made a pallet wood replacement for this and it served its purpose for about 8-10 years. During the last few months in this form, I could see the inherent mechanical weaknesses in my version and so as the frame and wheel were still in running order, I determined to make a more robust wooden tray.<br />
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Design Inspiration</h2>
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It was while I was leafing through a copy of 'The Home-Lovers Encyclopedia' published by The Amalgamated Press Ltd., London that I came across the plans for making a wheelbarrow from wood, this included how to make the wheel, which would require the aid of a blacksmith to fit a 'hoop' around it. The book dates from the mid 1930's and the type of wheelbarrow can be seen in garden photos from that era, or conversely, many modern types are sold as 'planters' for the garden.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio2Pf549kAKbVbbviax4n-W7Zu0vR5JKekbcofVsOm8PjvCYvdnHq1-3TvPXVCmfy5Ie8NBW4xNSofqs_EoGiQrEFzStAI37Dukr2tf9BHASce9zLvmQTO-P7uodTBhmgbj-rHImWyfeA/s1600/IMG_8010blog.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Rebuild a wheelbarrow with pallet wood" border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="477" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio2Pf549kAKbVbbviax4n-W7Zu0vR5JKekbcofVsOm8PjvCYvdnHq1-3TvPXVCmfy5Ie8NBW4xNSofqs_EoGiQrEFzStAI37Dukr2tf9BHASce9zLvmQTO-P7uodTBhmgbj-rHImWyfeA/s640/IMG_8010blog.JPG" title="Wooden wheelbsrrow design plans C1936" width="715" /></a></div>
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Nevertheless, I could see that some of the elements of the design would be an improvement on my first version of the tray so I set to with a stock of pallet wood and a few tools.</div>
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<h2>
Construction </h2>
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The crucial feature of the new tray I was making was the base which comprised of planks nailed to two 3" x 1¼" (75mm x 30mm) 'rails'. These latter were set to the width of the barrow frame upon which the original tray was attached.</div>
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The rails extended beyond the intended base dimension so as to provide a suitable anchoring point for the front wall supports (the wall nearest to the wheel). The rigidly supported front wall was also the basis of the front support of the side walls. The side walls were at an angle to the tray base so as to make the open top of the tray wider than at the base and to this end angled supports for the rear of the side wall could be rigidly attached to the tray support rails.<br />
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When I made the tray base, I had in the workshop several offcuts of tongue and groove pine floorboards which were ⅞" (22mm) thick. I had cut off both the tongue and the groove sides because at the time, the project I was undertaking only required planed wooden planks resulting in a finished width of 3½" (90mm). </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfaQyFs7SBfZ2V7qFD_CAkgfNc1EtyhauTJbRba8JPF7mCUUFfH7s6hqpSp0opIaKU_YJV0YdkmkNjGu6RQg55oOQZZm2m28xGij41B0QJH6B0Cm8nDWGayKg_kcnSeJFcdAT2GqsSdB4/s1600/markingout.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Rebuilding a wheelbarrow tray from pallet wood" border="0" data-original-height="360" data-original-width="715" height="402" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfaQyFs7SBfZ2V7qFD_CAkgfNc1EtyhauTJbRba8JPF7mCUUFfH7s6hqpSp0opIaKU_YJV0YdkmkNjGu6RQg55oOQZZm2m28xGij41B0QJH6B0Cm8nDWGayKg_kcnSeJFcdAT2GqsSdB4/s640/markingout.png" title="Marking out wheelbarrow tray supports for rebuild" width="715" /></a></div>
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To ensure that the bottom rails would sit closely against the frame tubes, I turned the barrow frame upside down and laid it on the workbench, positioned the rails how I wanted them against the tubes and marked that position on the bench top with a piece of chalk. I lifted the barrow off the bench and could then cut each base plank to width and shape by laying each plank onto the rails and drawing the cutting lines with a pencil using the rail edges as the guides.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSIEojZcErOCk3Gi4Q3dGEGX8LWN4L0G5tXPdWbeWac1FyIcTryIALC8oGtztACVeRmosta3vLM_jyvbaW_TukP2_ZuDCNG1BaTXYAGb5puY-NhL9HYor2IKNDjw7V-nkYlIp9Hw_k1tY/s1600/drillingout.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Repairing a wheelbarrow for pennies" border="0" data-original-height="402" data-original-width="715" height="402" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSIEojZcErOCk3Gi4Q3dGEGX8LWN4L0G5tXPdWbeWac1FyIcTryIALC8oGtztACVeRmosta3vLM_jyvbaW_TukP2_ZuDCNG1BaTXYAGb5puY-NhL9HYor2IKNDjw7V-nkYlIp9Hw_k1tY/s640/drillingout.png" title="Attaching wheelbarrow tray base" width="715" /></a></div>
Once cut, I attached the planks to the rails with 2" (50mm) nails. To prevent splitting the planks I pre-drilled pilot holes for the nails and secured each plank starting with that at the handle end of the barrow. There was a slight taper in the width of the barrow tubes towards the wheel and this was my reason for not cutting the planks to a measured width. Once all the planks were attached, I was able to try the base on the barrow for fit. The base was then attached using the existing holes in the barrow frame, 4 holes were drilled in the base and coach bolts were used to secure it.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb7Aw9cuiV3nLDpfFDvzbNi6R8Zr_rvrD2rmDwLm6w4i3DGfe9dBHXYImrUluXnDb8j97e-GSAKIWOucV8m6tBDiwUkB56ZmZL7JoVd5HvdjAN4ZZV4ckciYiJIOXMRZDqkzz3wGXtoy4/s1600/chamfer.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Pallet wood wheelbarrow rebuild" border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="477" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb7Aw9cuiV3nLDpfFDvzbNi6R8Zr_rvrD2rmDwLm6w4i3DGfe9dBHXYImrUluXnDb8j97e-GSAKIWOucV8m6tBDiwUkB56ZmZL7JoVd5HvdjAN4ZZV4ckciYiJIOXMRZDqkzz3wGXtoy4/s640/chamfer.JPG" title="Chamfered plank for wheelbarrow recuild" width="715" /></a>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgywvWuvHUasL-XhE8iYO4H02crt7xZ1_WDX0eE8PDOpMhFx4hyphenhyphenFsL1ZxwrBLJDMpTlNaBCuWf_dfBrn6sTu9h0qUld3trSkvhGYG_MEzowVqFWEsrFpona1v_6n6DI51rIjvsUL0dkpJE/s1600/frontsup.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Making a wheelbarrow tray" border="0" data-original-height="1018" data-original-width="1600" height="455" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgywvWuvHUasL-XhE8iYO4H02crt7xZ1_WDX0eE8PDOpMhFx4hyphenhyphenFsL1ZxwrBLJDMpTlNaBCuWf_dfBrn6sTu9h0qUld3trSkvhGYG_MEzowVqFWEsrFpona1v_6n6DI51rIjvsUL0dkpJE/s640/frontsup.JPG" title="Wheelbarrow front wall supports" width="715" /></a></div>
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<br />
The front wall supports were then attached to the rails. These were inclined at the desired angle and secured to the rails with two coach bolts. To ensure that both supports were at the same angle, a plank was laid on the tray bottom and rested against the first fixed wall support, the second support was then put into position on the rail and inclined to meet the plank prior to fixing. The three planks comprising the front wall were put in place, the lowest plank was planed at an angle so as to fit to the base. The planks were cut to overhang each of the wall supports by at least 1" (25mm). The lower two planks were nailed and the topmost one screwed to the supports.<br />
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The rear wall's angle was set by that made by the barrow's up-swept frame tubes against which the first plank could rest. As with the front wall, the lower edge of this plank was planed so as to fit to the base.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-1GHYBP2Xna2DjSlBkBfhMf4XU6h76BfycrRnWjFP1-oZZnWZStnrf5yA5zhnuuu5jHBcvGr5cXAAGQ3GQtLYEHzVIw9uuzg7_46_ViW-0t0CErmtLL_bo3vm8gfLHddOLjP-Sh4eItg/s1600/Screenshot+from+2019-09-30+13-01-21.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Pallet wood rebuild of wheelbarrow" border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="402" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-1GHYBP2Xna2DjSlBkBfhMf4XU6h76BfycrRnWjFP1-oZZnWZStnrf5yA5zhnuuu5jHBcvGr5cXAAGQ3GQtLYEHzVIw9uuzg7_46_ViW-0t0CErmtLL_bo3vm8gfLHddOLjP-Sh4eItg/s640/Screenshot+from+2019-09-30+13-01-21.JPG" title="Sidewall supports for wheelbarrow" width="715" /></a></div>
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The side wall supports were then cut from 1¼" (30mm) planking. They were to be attached to the rails at the rear of the barrow and were cut so as to 'lean out' from the rails to produce the slope for the sidewalls. The limiting criteria for the slope was that the tray width would not exceed the handle width so as to be able to pass through the doors of our greenhouses. Each of these supports were glued, screwed and bolted to the rails, with the rear face resting against the sloping face of the first rear wall plank. The two rear wall planks were then screwed to the supports. As with the front wall, the planks were cut oversize and the surplus sawn off, using the sloping face of the side wall supports as the saw guide.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7zZDuQFju6F4_2Gn9kuOIskWc0WECuvS3mofIswSH1gyLHRKkqClWy7Au8h3AX__qo4aTrshEzhXyN9JpqEnbr_gY7DKWe1Rs1GKfXczyJ_wC4nsHN6ybKQ_jc3aQrx55O9KaMnQU-Rg/s1600/Height.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Pallet wood tray rebuild for wheelbarrow" border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="402" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7zZDuQFju6F4_2Gn9kuOIskWc0WECuvS3mofIswSH1gyLHRKkqClWy7Au8h3AX__qo4aTrshEzhXyN9JpqEnbr_gY7DKWe1Rs1GKfXczyJ_wC4nsHN6ybKQ_jc3aQrx55O9KaMnQU-Rg/s640/Height.JPG" title="Using try squares to measure vertical height for 'barrow walls" width="715" /></a></div>
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<br />
The side walls were to be level with the top edges of both front and rear walls and to determine this height I used two try squares, the first held on the base and the second held against the perpendicular straight edge and lowered to let its blade touch the upper edge of the wall. The height could then be read off from the edge of the first square. It was evident that the wall height needed to be greater at the front than at the rear so I needed to cut the first, lowest, planks with a taper. I was fortunate that I had a second plank wide enough to complete the wall and of the same thickness as the tapered one. I used this piece as the guide to determine the angle for the front side wall support by positioning this piece against the inside face of the rear side wall support and kept the long edge along the base edge. The front support position could then be marked on the front wall. Suitable lengths for the supports were cut and screwed to the front wall at the marked position so that the sidewalls would rest against the supports hence any load in the barrow would tend to push the walls against them.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje24EnNbZ9q2Yzlj3Dt8102sp0uTCfYyYFYAxtvnYFjoU9_gcA1072hmF6OU7gFuCNc3VQa17UzFjn3OeBksry4Ur4azlH72SwDNEzNHOEzgpMZGeRc52rzoAvIgpqjpJ5kb18tr4_PCc/s1600/IMG_7941blog.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Fitting of sidewall to wheelbarrow" border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="477" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje24EnNbZ9q2Yzlj3Dt8102sp0uTCfYyYFYAxtvnYFjoU9_gcA1072hmF6OU7gFuCNc3VQa17UzFjn3OeBksry4Ur4azlH72SwDNEzNHOEzgpMZGeRc52rzoAvIgpqjpJ5kb18tr4_PCc/s640/IMG_7941blog.JPG" title="Taper on side wall of 'barrow" width="715" /></a></div>
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I cut the lower sidewall planks to the correct taper and as with the other two walls, planed a chamfer on the bottom edges so as to fit closely against the base. At the deeper front end of this tapered piece I was able to screw it to the side wall support but at the rear, which was only about ½"(12mm) high, I screwed it to the base. Now that the first pieces were in place, the second piece of the wider plank could be cut to fit the sloping front and rear walls and screwed into place.<br />
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As some of the timber was overlong such as the tray base rails and the rear sidewall supports, I was now able to finish the rebuild by trimming off the surplus.<br />
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<h2>
Road Test</h2>
Now was the time to move the barrow into the garden and put it to work. Initially, I was quite surprised by how much heavier the barrow felt especially as I had to negotiate 5 steps up to enter the garden from the workshop. However, once in normal use in the garden this extra weight was not noticeable. The great advantage now that the rebuild is complete is that I can very easily attach extension walls to carry less dense loads such as leaves, hay etc.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizrM2YxPI0R_HE3n_Tz2r1vc37_U4itP6kHKA3N_kipbrktGPwcHYQhK7hmQDiRqtpJYWtiuamVwjaTIZ7w_20Jmz9g6u-ZK5RXGF-X3n5qMpYBUGFdcMvuM8WyANr97VTtbp83o4thSg/s1600/P1000290BLOG.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Original wheelbarrow rebuild" border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="536" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizrM2YxPI0R_HE3n_Tz2r1vc37_U4itP6kHKA3N_kipbrktGPwcHYQhK7hmQDiRqtpJYWtiuamVwjaTIZ7w_20Jmz9g6u-ZK5RXGF-X3n5qMpYBUGFdcMvuM8WyANr97VTtbp83o4thSg/s640/P1000290BLOG.JPG" title="Wheelbarrow rebuild number 1 with passenger" width="715" /></a></div>
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<br />
So for very little cost, I have no doubt that the usable life of this wheelbarrow has been extended by at least another 5 - 10 years and will be used as a roost just as the last one was (see above) for years to come.<br />
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I have recently acquired another, older, wheelbarrow which needs the same treatment and will give us the luxury of being a 'two wheelbarrow household' - such decadence.<br />
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<h2>
The Film</h2>
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<iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Y_qvXQAaZfU" width="560"></iframe><br /></div>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
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Until next time and from a rainy day in Normandie,</div>
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<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Cheers, Andy</div>
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© Andy Colley 2019<br />
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The Green Leverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01335293795269368752noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3199850434720533796.post-89025365261913926662019-03-08T15:25:00.003+01:002021-07-05T13:43:04.110+02:00DIY Pallet Wood Week-end Chicken Coop Hen House<div style="text-align: justify;">
One of the greatest problems poultry keepers have, in our experience, is getting people to look after hens for short-notice, short-term breaks. Most smallholders or homesteaders have similar friends, neighbours and family members who are willing and able to come and either live in their house or visit on a daily basis to look after poultry or livestock whilst they are away on holiday. We have a long-standing and reciprocal agreement with friends to do just this for three weeks every Summer. </div>
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<div style="text-align: left;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifROzWH3Nd_3wdxBTRuOUE5TzjNNZWpsJn1UJHz30oSE9Mp5_bP-clA6dsAf26_XMVpIsZ5705wVcDzbRsXk43JG6NulCowJAP3n2kYw-v9RvCzJeQJ0BFkbS2MC_ZvlHngenH5Wo6Hco/s1600/IMG_2588Blog.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Weekend chicken coop" border="0" data-original-height="1001" data-original-width="1600" height="447" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifROzWH3Nd_3wdxBTRuOUE5TzjNNZWpsJn1UJHz30oSE9Mp5_bP-clA6dsAf26_XMVpIsZ5705wVcDzbRsXk43JG6NulCowJAP3n2kYw-v9RvCzJeQJ0BFkbS2MC_ZvlHngenH5Wo6Hco/s640/IMG_2588Blog.JPG" title="Coop and run with free-ranging resident" width="715" /></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
What happens though if you get invited out to dine, party, stay the night or unexpectedly have the chance to get away for just a few days? In that case, this project is for you because it allows even the most underconfident of neighbours to feed, water, collect eggs and put your flock to bed without ever having to go into the coop or enclosure. Thus they avoid what they most fear and what often puts them off from saying 'yes' - escapee chickens running amok!</div>
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<h2 style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;">DESIGN</span></h2>
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The criteria for this coop was that is would provide not only those facilities mentioned above but also that it would be interesting enough to provide amusement for 4 bantam hens and a young Polish cockerel/rooster, all of whom are normally free-range. Furthermore, when their owner was in residence, the birds would be able to use the coop, the run of which has a fully opening front section, as a home-base for their daily activities.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEBgqZozTTie1l0BChwnjnc10Y5SKRR0rN_o8OCdEUhdS3BB2CyLLyR3MiT24QlMGwTSGQJk65WG1VziQ08AXQLo4yJCK5c8k5BYnt0wMgtquwb4ifPjyRe8ViCYORWCzrRIe-Z1rq5rA/s1600/IMG_2155blog.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="DIY weekend chicken coop" border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="476" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEBgqZozTTie1l0BChwnjnc10Y5SKRR0rN_o8OCdEUhdS3BB2CyLLyR3MiT24QlMGwTSGQJk65WG1VziQ08AXQLo4yJCK5c8k5BYnt0wMgtquwb4ifPjyRe8ViCYORWCzrRIe-Z1rq5rA/s640/IMG_2155blog.JPG" title="Easy access to run" width="715" /></a></div>
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In addition and probably because all these birds come from our 'Jungle Fowl' stock and have a propensity to roost outdoors on clear nights, the idea was to train them to come and eat their evening meal inside the run and thus go to roost in the coop. The chickens live in a gated beach front residence and a rooster crowing at day break is not something everyone wants as an alarm call.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4eCTswHrJ6R-PVflqxj9gJf8ugviyJf0J1wr7r7rktbS0UkxrUQqJmzy-GqHtBjW9rmchdQ8iYnCDwawAjFsGSj1_ylWr6qvTHaj3VDvoNVJeDUCzmEz8UDve0U8O6adr831p0GlyVMU/s1600/IMG_1769blog.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Chicken coop and run from pallet wood" border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1515" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4eCTswHrJ6R-PVflqxj9gJf8ugviyJf0J1wr7r7rktbS0UkxrUQqJmzy-GqHtBjW9rmchdQ8iYnCDwawAjFsGSj1_ylWr6qvTHaj3VDvoNVJeDUCzmEz8UDve0U8O6adr831p0GlyVMU/s320/IMG_1769blog.JPG" title="Rebated plank edge" width="302" /></a></div>
The location of the garden also informed on the design, as this gets some typical Winter and Spring Storms. Thus, although using untreated pallet-wood planks, I was going to cut a rebate in each one so that the walls would be windproof. </div>
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I also decided to add a wire layer to the run roof to avoid puddling from the heavy rain and a rainy day area beneath the coop. This would both insulate the living space and allow for the chickens to be outside and with the opportunity to dust bathe, even on the wettest of days. As a further feature for outdoor sunbathing, the run sides were built up with an additional pallet wood plank width to serve as a wind break.<br />
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<h2>
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MATERIALS</span><script src="//z-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/onejs?MarketPlace=US"></script></h2>
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Untreated Pallet Wood Planks:</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<ul>
<li>Standard Length (120cm or 48") - 52</li>
<li>Long Length (150cm or 59") - 8 </li>
</ul>
Tongue & Groove Panelling - 1.2m² or 13ft²</div>
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Heavy Duty Tarpaulin - 4m² or 43ft²</div>
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Chicken Wire: (12mm or ½"pitch 1m or approx 1 yard wide) - 4m or approx 4 yards<br />
Hinges - 3 pairs<br />
Screws<br />
Nails<br />
Linseed Oil & Natural Pigments<br />
Door Furniture - I make all my latches/fasteners from pieces of pallet wood <br />
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<h2>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">CONSTRUCTION - CHICKEN COOP</span></h2>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiUYBjxRXiGIXNHI19cBU4AcTtQW1L85nmiNE_F9MORc41IMLc8QmDMexqMjqNKN3AP1KlykVvnJHRbm6vytuSjl1F8aNUYzneMkRcu4NpIvF0P3EfKDzgTP8TtRqfGIALNj3o04mzU38/s1600/IMG_1772blog.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Weekend chicken coop from pallet wood" border="0" data-original-height="1429" data-original-width="1600" height="285" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiUYBjxRXiGIXNHI19cBU4AcTtQW1L85nmiNE_F9MORc41IMLc8QmDMexqMjqNKN3AP1KlykVvnJHRbm6vytuSjl1F8aNUYzneMkRcu4NpIvF0P3EfKDzgTP8TtRqfGIALNj3o04mzU38/s320/IMG_1772blog.JPG" title="Router table set for rebating planks" width="320" /></a></div>
As mentioned above I started by cutting a small rebate into each long edge of the pallet planks.<br />
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Each of the walls of the coop were made up of a frame cut to 25mm 1" square timber from pallet wood to which were nailed the prepared planks.<br />
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I began the build with one completely covered side and then went on to construct the opposite elevation to this, which was to incorporate the nest box and a bob hole or sliding door.<br />
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
This could be used by the temporary carer to place the food and water in
the run before remotely opening the roost bob hole door! This second
elevation was also hinged at the top and bottom so that the whole side
could be opened for easy cleaning of the roost area.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuuoiCfDjXFxZI2W_Vac15q3-b-cH2IDvKiNax_0MUlHLQKwwgIWkuw6EVIzMkQH3E2GsSKRWnePzTh99Oy9_L_tsm5QCYsIibbWNoZEciyP5onQl-9kko9A7N0D3WlgXktxvni-hRYpQ/s1600/Screenshot+from+MVI_1787.MOV.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Make your own chicken coop" border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1280" height="402" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuuoiCfDjXFxZI2W_Vac15q3-b-cH2IDvKiNax_0MUlHLQKwwgIWkuw6EVIzMkQH3E2GsSKRWnePzTh99Oy9_L_tsm5QCYsIibbWNoZEciyP5onQl-9kko9A7N0D3WlgXktxvni-hRYpQ/s640/Screenshot+from+MVI_1787.MOV.png" title="Coop side wall" width="715" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1aaM0X88YB3FO9oDnzmiFMJTh6591ro7E_716PuJFXJA4bDF1cs_YSn5r-mAQW14H4Dklnh2jU3QLZPeJ6hBMf0FBn3UHsHsLzMAjvJBz48x2efM0ICFU_pWa3e-Rpx2_ZWJph_IpVZE/s1600/IMG_2152blog.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="DIY chicken coop and run" border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="476" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1aaM0X88YB3FO9oDnzmiFMJTh6591ro7E_716PuJFXJA4bDF1cs_YSn5r-mAQW14H4Dklnh2jU3QLZPeJ6hBMf0FBn3UHsHsLzMAjvJBz48x2efM0ICFU_pWa3e-Rpx2_ZWJph_IpVZE/s640/IMG_2152blog.JPG" title="Side view of coop and run" width="715" /></a></div>
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<h2>
SIDE ELEVATION - BOB HOLE DOOR </h2>
The door itself was made up of three cut pallet planks which were nailed to upper and lower battens of pallet wood.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdvRy9o1IRsOOtgiyAmhUvzV2wffQeFZnvBQ-s7JgFpj7otC9nsuO4oYZ7d79LEManBMCUoVDG6awu3HjOp0VQoSF8JT05b3I-nvl1SWiAS5NiZK097SjEmidbBqDPgmT8SBsBz3htMcY/s1600/bob+hole.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Build a chicken coop and run from pallet wood" border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1082" height="474" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdvRy9o1IRsOOtgiyAmhUvzV2wffQeFZnvBQ-s7JgFpj7otC9nsuO4oYZ7d79LEManBMCUoVDG6awu3HjOp0VQoSF8JT05b3I-nvl1SWiAS5NiZK097SjEmidbBqDPgmT8SBsBz3htMcY/s640/bob+hole.png" title="Bob hole construction" width="715" /></a></div>
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The door opened and shut by way of an upper and lower guide, each made from selected thicknesses of pallet planking.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD3X8MCgRiGRN6H2Rl5fJL6xl2pzJH2KeKpS2uw4z5z1vIj5vpLaN9yHuVVEV0GT9eUU8OKzdaZuFSHjtM1NqU2tkMVJX7uJrITo3e5uVJuE1hOd5J99U_Do5y95qcGbwCNyRfvpTTawc/s1600/Screenshot+from+MVI_1963.MOV.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="DIY weekend hen house" border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1280" height="402" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD3X8MCgRiGRN6H2Rl5fJL6xl2pzJH2KeKpS2uw4z5z1vIj5vpLaN9yHuVVEV0GT9eUU8OKzdaZuFSHjtM1NqU2tkMVJX7uJrITo3e5uVJuE1hOd5J99U_Do5y95qcGbwCNyRfvpTTawc/s640/Screenshot+from+MVI_1963.MOV.png" title="Testing the sliding door" width="715" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<h2>
SIDE ELEVATION - NEST BOX</h2>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVGDN-8H0zfmVzLkE0PZx6v3EeMU74Zi2hHSnxoqzWtbvHed5ub4VwzozljqQTQ9FT6FarkRQ5XqLsZKNLoLt7PW7bs0Tdkhh4njrKbkTDMA2eDbENquG8RPmD5A6z8JDaI2IZ7jhhey0/s1600/Nest+box.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Predator safe coop and run" border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1082" height="474" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVGDN-8H0zfmVzLkE0PZx6v3EeMU74Zi2hHSnxoqzWtbvHed5ub4VwzozljqQTQ9FT6FarkRQ5XqLsZKNLoLt7PW7bs0Tdkhh4njrKbkTDMA2eDbENquG8RPmD5A6z8JDaI2IZ7jhhey0/s640/Nest+box.png" title="Making the nest box" width="715" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
Supported by the centre rail of the door, the nest box was made up of two side sections which were made from horizontally-laid planks. These are screwed to the door frame, a pallet wood stretcher is then fixed to the base plank of the side. These then form the frame work to support the base of the nest box. A front panel was preassembled using just a top batten to which the vertically oriented planks were attached. The batten was the exact internal dimension of the nest box and the planks at the two ends extended at least 2cm (1") beyond the batten. This panel pushes straight into place and is then screwed to the sidewall edges and then to the lower batten.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo33PwZSVcFpb3suC3O4HaSCJZ2_0KrR_sfCVzEugMw6SHyAsbm_nflZpUXxHWzMZMnMNsTFthLiHxyVboEh4AzqAprWerRJWTpFIxoA6fsX1aS62tfj8zmirOWir9jbTx6a_b0N1uSV4/s1600/Screenshot+from+MVI_1977.MOV+-+1.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Weekend hen house DIY" border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1280" height="402" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo33PwZSVcFpb3suC3O4HaSCJZ2_0KrR_sfCVzEugMw6SHyAsbm_nflZpUXxHWzMZMnMNsTFthLiHxyVboEh4AzqAprWerRJWTpFIxoA6fsX1aS62tfj8zmirOWir9jbTx6a_b0N1uSV4/s640/Screenshot+from+MVI_1977.MOV+-+1.png" title="cutting nest box front to size" width="715" /></a></div>
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<br />
The surplus on the front of the nest box could then be trimmed to width in situ with my jigsaw.<br />
<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf8nQq9iexcyoLHnCXezesK485IGXIKVAadpWGAy6DXOGp6sEk4z17Adh64W2_QAPm5Zkb-HhL4-h3i0jgK9xuoQqDm5X1tkQwtBv7tUBagcairb2-pmC-fD5J27NtFoI9BeQyMy0dVNg/s1600/IMG_2151blog.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Chicken coop for the weekend" border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="476" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf8nQq9iexcyoLHnCXezesK485IGXIKVAadpWGAy6DXOGp6sEk4z17Adh64W2_QAPm5Zkb-HhL4-h3i0jgK9xuoQqDm5X1tkQwtBv7tUBagcairb2-pmC-fD5J27NtFoI9BeQyMy0dVNg/s640/IMG_2151blog.JPG" title="Side elevation" width="715" /></a></div>
<br />
A tarpaulin cover was then added. A small retaining plank was screwed onto the inside of the door to prevent straw and eggs from being in danger of falling when the door was opened. I attached an inner tube rubber along the hinged side of the lid for extra water-proofing due to our very wet climate. The lid of the nest box, however, was further protected by the large overhang of the main roof.<br />
<br />
<h2>
FRONT ELEVATION </h2>
The centre rail for the framework was wider than the rest of the frame timber, this to provide a support for the flooring planks.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4h5EvHUuA12nr_Kh7lgK0wvfqtMXz5s9SgkE_euI0zqTLzJGrYGxNGzqyVuGqQyO0ZavsIwLc-R9PJkhhFAKeBow9J6WNmnR_zc714jEURWeT-q6aIRH6qprfR5K2XOqeq0evGMkf5Yw/s1600/IMG_2076blog.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="How to make a chicken coop" border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="476" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4h5EvHUuA12nr_Kh7lgK0wvfqtMXz5s9SgkE_euI0zqTLzJGrYGxNGzqyVuGqQyO0ZavsIwLc-R9PJkhhFAKeBow9J6WNmnR_zc714jEURWeT-q6aIRH6qprfR5K2XOqeq0evGMkf5Yw/s640/IMG_2076blog.JPG" title="Timber frame for front of coop" width="715" /></a></div>
<br />
The planking at the two vertical sides of this elevation were the full height of the panel and extended beyond the timber frame so as to furnish a means of screwing this elevation to the side walls. This same technique was used on the rear elevation.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIb_hJO8FHE_ufz2QpqQ0Atag9BJZ9pc-kmTLTcRZ3rKfQKDDi4_8ocIx9hNpBYsQ2eUzJv0CU76G2RlWyhzVttVg2jnqa91h5UFfoxv19qa4WqRKHZfA_2618oJVYWziugc3eGVoSz4Q/s1600/IMG_2079blog.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="How to make a hen house" border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="476" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIb_hJO8FHE_ufz2QpqQ0Atag9BJZ9pc-kmTLTcRZ3rKfQKDDi4_8ocIx9hNpBYsQ2eUzJv0CU76G2RlWyhzVttVg2jnqa91h5UFfoxv19qa4WqRKHZfA_2618oJVYWziugc3eGVoSz4Q/s640/IMG_2079blog.JPG" title="Detail of front panel under construction" width="715" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<h2>
FRONT ELEVATION - BOB HOLE</h2>
The construction of the bob hole was the same as on the side elevation except I added a staple to each side edge of the door, so as to allow the attachment of a cord to open and shut the door from the outside of the run. Furthermore I also added a threshold (see below) to the frame beneath the bob hole to attach the ramp.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-S2FjS-SkC-c0F7rO2DEFgXHY9isrk3ubnK5o0eZw8hyM7swXxBKeVgFYz2QNpBY2PmtZcaIrtcjMChwy74Sy9kNhT4iJDqnlyUWU4SIap1hLAeRcDoLCPVDmHM693DVI_cQD1kE4ENk/s1600/Screenshot+blogfrom+MVI_2147.MOV.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Making your own hen house" border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1280" height="402" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-S2FjS-SkC-c0F7rO2DEFgXHY9isrk3ubnK5o0eZw8hyM7swXxBKeVgFYz2QNpBY2PmtZcaIrtcjMChwy74Sy9kNhT4iJDqnlyUWU4SIap1hLAeRcDoLCPVDmHM693DVI_cQD1kE4ENk/s640/Screenshot+blogfrom+MVI_2147.MOV.JPG" title="Roost bob hole" width="715" /></a></div>
<br />
<h2>
FRONT ELEVATION - RAINY DAY AREA</h2>
The wall of the front elevation only extended down as far as the centre
support of the sides, so as to provide a sheltered area beneath the
coop. This also meant that when the birds were in free-range mode they would still be assured of a dry area in which they could dust bathe.<br />
<br />
<h2>
REAR ELEVATION</h2>
This was similar in construction to the front wall, except obviously the pallet planks extended to the ground and the dimensions followed the slope of the single pitched roof.<br />
<br />
<h2>
ROOF</h2>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDMtxFmdC4b5dcJg88Vm5EDiJjLHJZKRZRgyzyMbZEkhzCDkkECHWt8eRu1NwtBhUnrO4Xx7qbrM0cNEaBYdGfCcE1jhsDBx81HsrKfGKDbO8dn4x8gOafwImS2Hyp8e6Yn5TokSHCDf8/s1600/Roof.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Low cost chicken coop" border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1082" height="474" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDMtxFmdC4b5dcJg88Vm5EDiJjLHJZKRZRgyzyMbZEkhzCDkkECHWt8eRu1NwtBhUnrO4Xx7qbrM0cNEaBYdGfCcE1jhsDBx81HsrKfGKDbO8dn4x8gOafwImS2Hyp8e6Yn5TokSHCDf8/s640/Roof.png" title="Construction of coop roof" width="715" /></a></div>
The frame for the roof was such that there was an inner plank on the two side elevations, so that when fitted the roof could be screwed through these to the side walls. </div><div style="text-align: justify;"> </div><div style="text-align: justify;">Once the frame was made the top face was clad with the tongue and grooved panelling, which itself was covered with tarpaulin </div><div style="text-align: justify;">
<p>Because the roof was to be single pitched i.e. sloping to the rear of
the coop, the front and rear elevations of the roof were angled so that
when the roof was in place, these faces would be vertical. This to
ensure runoff of water form the roof was effected. </p>The entire
roof had an overhang of approximately 3" -4" or 75mm to 100mm on all
edges. The front and rear frames of the roof were spaced so as to fit
over the front and rear coop walls and two additional side planks were
attached so as to do likewise. (pointing photo above) </div><div style="text-align: justify;"> </div><div style="text-align: justify;">The roof simply pushes on to the walls of the coop and because of the
tongue and groove is light though solid and easy to handle. No other
securing is necessary as it is deep enough to fit snuggly to the coop. <br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><h2>
FIXTURES & FITTINGS</h2>
The interior of the coop had a stand alone roost with detachable droppings pit for ease of cleaning and to stop the hens from walking in their own droppings when in residence. This was made from pallet wood and chicken wire.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvKQUlnlukv_7Ru94CjgGgxoLt5pjMKfaFvNamF4klrgITBddUeNHFBLvTMoVCUzX_XaKyNzj_s8eDCf34T0Y-OlO5GkiexvEcC1QV-jsN9jAMezCj6RgEpKPyVgaEQLioJyk6BbP1FeY/s1600/Fixtures.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Make a chicken coop from pallets" border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1082" height="474" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvKQUlnlukv_7Ru94CjgGgxoLt5pjMKfaFvNamF4klrgITBddUeNHFBLvTMoVCUzX_XaKyNzj_s8eDCf34T0Y-OlO5GkiexvEcC1QV-jsN9jAMezCj6RgEpKPyVgaEQLioJyk6BbP1FeY/s640/Fixtures.png" title="Droppings tray and entrance ramp" width="715" /></a></div>
<br />
We had thought of using a plain plank as a ramp up into the coop but as we had to think about the definite eventuality of chicks, we added little steps which would be easier for little feet to negotiate.<br />
<br />
<h2>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">THE RUN</span></h2>
The sides of the run, as with the coop were based on cut-down pallet plank frames, with chicken wire stapled to them. The front of the run was a frame within a frame, as this allowed for the whole front to open for easy access during free-ranging.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsnXepjalYdWm_3QEXezx081BLdDRPUh9VoyUWGY50cwCZkqOiQLkp9smoLHvoxAKmpHKBdl7DjyenCuYK4jOuHyZwQdkLfOaA_fIVMpq1VkqzcQd3wr0ZOgYd_dKz75bHGGjk0NEaKDk/s1600/Run2.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Making a low cost coop and run" border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1082" height="474" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsnXepjalYdWm_3QEXezx081BLdDRPUh9VoyUWGY50cwCZkqOiQLkp9smoLHvoxAKmpHKBdl7DjyenCuYK4jOuHyZwQdkLfOaA_fIVMpq1VkqzcQd3wr0ZOgYd_dKz75bHGGjk0NEaKDk/s640/Run2.png" title="Run construction" width="715" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
The top and bottom rails of the run on each side elevation extended beyond the profile of the side panel to allow for the run to be screwed to the coop. This was done to allow for the run to be easily removed, if and when the whole unit needed to relocated and also to allow for an extension to the sides of the run if the flock became larger.<br />
<br />
As already mentioned the side elevations had an extra plank added to the bottom rail to allow for a wind proof area for the birds to lie down and take sun baths.<br />
<br />
<h2>
RUN ROOF</h2>
This was made with a slope to allow for our climate, which can be stormy and particularly on the ocean front.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirg03nDsOHD8UzcSxnlHAgT7JRFHwZ22IEklfgfqmaW4QgJ_SeJUmEzQv69wGi4BTY8XF28Fzwg23EwpL0JJAtqH9ZNjgl5VUDuAqEpL4AIgNpi2hbbpXFzs4Wi2ImNez57AuDqR6gC_o/s1600/IMG_2129blog.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Pallet wood coop DIY" border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="476" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirg03nDsOHD8UzcSxnlHAgT7JRFHwZ22IEklfgfqmaW4QgJ_SeJUmEzQv69wGi4BTY8XF28Fzwg23EwpL0JJAtqH9ZNjgl5VUDuAqEpL4AIgNpi2hbbpXFzs4Wi2ImNez57AuDqR6gC_o/s640/IMG_2129blog.JPG" title="The run roof" width="715" /></a></div>
<br />
As previously mentioned the roof was first fitted with a chicken wire top, prior to adding the tarpaulin, in order to avoid rain puddling on the top.<br />
<br />
<h2>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">FINISHING </span></h2>
The woodwork was painted with linseed oil, which had first been tinted with a mixture of natural mineral and earth pigments. Information about using these can be found in the related articles below<br />
<h2>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">FILM</span></h2>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Bnkyz5smvIQ" width="560"></iframe>
</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Until next time and from a cold day in Normandie,</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Cheers, Andy</div>
<br />
© Andy Colley 2018<br />
<h2>
</h2>
<h2>
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<br />
<h2>
Pallet Wood Hen House/Chicken Coop & Prototype Tiny Tiny House - Part 1 Construction</h2>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
We designed and have already built one of these coops not just as
accommodation for the hens but as a prototype we could build here in the
workshops... <b><a href="http://thegreenlever.blogspot.fr/2012/09/pallet-wood-hen-house-and-prototype-for.html#.VDKLGFcgvO">read more</a></b>
<br />
<h2 class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfe1cHTz_-r9O-MkqtxouhpiLxcAMZel0CYb08_rSBQ4YbGZ65GC3bW1vx4SnlunhaV9EJD59uwCENc_8YEVWm2VJu1Uw6JIazmgWOJMhGZ0OP9CzCnQD7zcW-WPkgY-_o_WnBB99oDHM/s1600/Screenshot+from+zzzzz.MOV.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="112" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfe1cHTz_-r9O-MkqtxouhpiLxcAMZel0CYb08_rSBQ4YbGZ65GC3bW1vx4SnlunhaV9EJD59uwCENc_8YEVWm2VJu1Uw6JIazmgWOJMhGZ0OP9CzCnQD7zcW-WPkgY-_o_WnBB99oDHM/s200/Screenshot+from+zzzzz.MOV.png" width="200" /></a>How to Make a Low Cost Router Table</h2>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
I have several jobs lined up over the next few months which will involve
the use of a router. These include making several wooden doors. Much
of the planking I will be using will need to have moulded edges so...<b><a href="http://thegreenlever.blogspot.fr/2016/02/home-made-router-table-from-scrap.html#.Vr9DzEJVK1E" target="_blank">read more</a></b>
<br />
<h2 class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
The Alchemy of Artists' Materials - whether painting a leaf motif or a
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<br /></div>
</div>
<br /></div>
The Green Leverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01335293795269368752noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3199850434720533796.post-31951020311636191272018-11-22T15:45:00.000+01:002020-07-07T14:34:19.313+02:00DIY Table Top Binocular Collimator - The Experiment<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAfGZvXkq1b2g5K-GVV6e63T0ZJ4-QHngjMo5ybMq3pNK_Oa0tKnlV3GX0fgqWu1bwmkOfFY7RUGzrtXu5-KDDTU9u29efmyGkyiIsxhnxiThCv6R3jALkEOb7U0WdwGc_Wi_WFl9QWck/s1600/IMG_5767blog.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Table top binocular collimation" border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAfGZvXkq1b2g5K-GVV6e63T0ZJ4-QHngjMo5ybMq3pNK_Oa0tKnlV3GX0fgqWu1bwmkOfFY7RUGzrtXu5-KDDTU9u29efmyGkyiIsxhnxiThCv6R3jALkEOb7U0WdwGc_Wi_WFl9QWck/s640/IMG_5767blog.JPG" title="Checking left hand alighment" width="425" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
I had already established the approximate distances between the
components so I screwed the binocular support to the table such that the
binocular objectives would be about 90cm (36”) from the collimator
lens.</div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
The collimation scope was fitted to its mount which was on
the eyepiece side of the binoculars. As I had previously mentioned, the
support for this scope had a base which fitted between the table laths
and could mimic the collimator's movement from side to side.</div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Only the collimator had a fixed vertical height, the other two components in the layout could both have their heights adjusted.</div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
The
first stage was to ensure that the collimated light source was centred
on the centre line of the binocular. To do this, I inserted the
cardboard discs into the dew cap rings of the objective lenses and adjusted the collimator lens
so that the image of the target was visible on the one disc.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk9aiTPfRgSgs3XEgE4x6YdkKjpjg6mAQL-pTV4pYlrwqRpk1qQ9CpvC8_lF7cGiSP1oNt2qphT4VQHl7yng8OLB7NmuRQHzwbV3eEwyodxBVvElbCTYoT1mBuyB4O3EqR9ijaa4P4vyM/s1600/IMG_5809blog.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="Binocular collimation with homemade collimator" border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk9aiTPfRgSgs3XEgE4x6YdkKjpjg6mAQL-pTV4pYlrwqRpk1qQ9CpvC8_lF7cGiSP1oNt2qphT4VQHl7yng8OLB7NmuRQHzwbV3eEwyodxBVvElbCTYoT1mBuyB4O3EqR9ijaa4P4vyM/s400/IMG_5809blog.JPG" title="Centred light beam" width="266" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXQhG9zFdxwbbU__wF2EncDTJEG5XsBaV5WQokgfh26EuVjBpmfHfG5FLj1bezDAPxhg0fIA01VZShX2KmkEw4Bf8jYgTgNFNuwzOfNTVtMk2zOGsJOYEuYsxl1fWsWFNK1UzDJ8elbgk/s1600/IMG_5811Blog.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Binocular alignment" border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXQhG9zFdxwbbU__wF2EncDTJEG5XsBaV5WQokgfh26EuVjBpmfHfG5FLj1bezDAPxhg0fIA01VZShX2KmkEw4Bf8jYgTgNFNuwzOfNTVtMk2zOGsJOYEuYsxl1fWsWFNK1UzDJ8elbgk/s400/IMG_5811Blog.JPG" title="Centring the light beam" width="266" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
It was
easy to see if the cross wire centre was coincident with that of the
disc centre and any discrepancies were easily rectified viz, horizontal
difference slide the collimator in its guides, vertically; slacken the
binocular mount locknut and move the binoculars up or down. It was also
possible to slide the collimator to the other objective to confirm or
otherwise that the second objective lens centre was also coincident with
the collimated beam centre. The main reason why this would not be so
would be that the binoculars were not level on their mount. Obviously
any correction to this parameter would require the checking of the other
objectives’ position until the two objectives were both centred on the
centre of the light beam.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsvSIsD45929afximrUJynhGTYcq6hS10Mr0om6kkl0ltcuXGlQx5j7gu0Pzei-jxeWdJa58xDSdsUQlcxjaRFZSaq1nqhll65PCV2vPk5mrgtWuf-UNmYcSQE-sUH9LXFZDTJTEKSe2g/s1600/IMG_5785blog.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="DIY collimator for binocular alignment" border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="476" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsvSIsD45929afximrUJynhGTYcq6hS10Mr0om6kkl0ltcuXGlQx5j7gu0Pzei-jxeWdJa58xDSdsUQlcxjaRFZSaq1nqhll65PCV2vPk5mrgtWuf-UNmYcSQE-sUH9LXFZDTJTEKSe2g/s640/IMG_5785blog.JPG" title="Optically checking binocular squareness" width="715" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
The next parameter to check was that the
binoculars were square to the light beam i.e., they were not off-axis
(tilted or skewed). This posed a problem as there was not a flat surface
on the binocular body which I could use as a reference. I finally
realised that the binocular dew cap rings were the only machined flat surface
on the front end of the binoculars. I used this feature by securing a
flat mirror over the objective lens, held flat against the dew cap ring
with an elastic band stretched from the eyepiece end of the binoculars.
The reflected light was then visible on the front wall of the collimator
on which I had drawn a vertical and horizontal line with their
intersection coincident with the lens centre. The lens was refocused. A
perfectly squared binocular and hence mirror would superimpose the cross
image onto the drawn lines. The arrangement was an optical lever very
similar to that used in a ballistic galvanometer. The image was brought
into alignment with the drawn cross by tilting and/or skewing the
binocular mount. Once this was achieved, I removed the mirror and
refocussed the lens so that I could check that the cross centre was
still in the centre of the cardboard disc, any shift was corrected as previously described and
the mirror replaced to check that squareness to the light beam had not
been compromised.</div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Once this was satisfactorily achieved, the card
discs were removed and the lens refocused once again but to the third
position i.e., the one that produced the collimated beam. This was
confirmed by looking into the binocular eyepiece.</div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
That being so the spotter scope was slid into position, looking through the binocular eyepiece and the image of the cross wire studied through it.</div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
I
had set the distance between the spotter scope and the eyepiece of the
binoculars such that the image from the eyepiece was slightly smaller
than the view in the scope. This was so that I could ensure the scope
was looking straight into the centre of the eyepiece-the image was
surrounded by an annular dark ring.<br />
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Properly aligned binoculars would give an image of the cross wires of the spotting scope superimposed on the target image.</div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLJmhNsdNOGbp_hGiuUtgmpiuMd7auCHWy6_iMXDt0QjETdpxSmy4q8rPxqpif8JhEkMlJQ_6yWYLEVDyTm7S1CpUYDVPCDKFH2yFhijSDVbphvrdy8LvQnD_vQAlhbfM6vGHB8yqZ2U8/s1600/IMG_5821mix.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Make your own collimation bench" border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="830" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLJmhNsdNOGbp_hGiuUtgmpiuMd7auCHWy6_iMXDt0QjETdpxSmy4q8rPxqpif8JhEkMlJQ_6yWYLEVDyTm7S1CpUYDVPCDKFH2yFhijSDVbphvrdy8LvQnD_vQAlhbfM6vGHB8yqZ2U8/s640/IMG_5821mix.JPG" title="Centring the cross wires" width="331" /></a>I
had decided to correct any misalignment by adjusting the position of
the objective lens within its eccentric retainer ring. To do this I had
to unscrew and remove the dew cap ring. This I was able to do firstly on
the right hand half of the binoculars. There was sufficient adjustment
to attain the alignment of the two sets of cross wires. If there hadn’t
had been enough I would have had to resort to prism adjustment.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
I
was also able to ensure the binoculars were still aligned to the
collimator by repeating the operation with the mirror only this time the
mirror was resting against the machined flat face of the binocular body and
not the dew cap ring.</div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
I then shifted the collimator to centre on
the left-hand objective lens of the binoculars and moved the finder
scope into position behind the eyepiece. The image in the left-hand half
of the binoculars was coincident with the cross wire in the finder
scope, so no adjustment was necessary in this case.</div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
I could now remove the
binoculars from their mount and look through them to see if the quality
of the image had improved, which it had! The realignment process was a
success. </div>
<br />
INSTRUMENTS: Flat Double Sided Mirror<br />
<br />
<h2>
<b>Precautions</b></h2>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Whilst
I was checking the alignment with the mirror I leant on the table and
saw the cross-wire shadow move on the front wall of the collimator by
about ¼” the original position resumed as soon as I removed my weight.
Don’t lean on the apparatus!</div>
<br />
...and if you're listening Santa<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<iframe frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="//ws-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/q?ServiceVersion=20070822&OneJS=1&Operation=GetAdHtml&MarketPlace=US&source=ss&ref=as_ss_li_til&ad_type=product_link&tracking_id=thegreenlever-20&marketplace=amazon&region=US&placement=B07C8R5RKM&asins=B07C8R5RKM&linkId=3a64272d12dc6608b15fc181406a8e71&show_border=true&link_opens_in_new_window=true" style="height: 240px; width: 120px;"></iframe>
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</div>
<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
..and now sit back and watch the film:<br />
<br />
<iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/v1ZS_eDqA-I" width="560"></iframe>
</div>
<br />
<h2>
<b>In Conclusion</b></h2>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
I
was pleased with the end results that I obtained by using this 'kitchen
table' arrangement and once the initial 'teething problems' had been
overcome, I found the apparatus easy to use. It would be interesting to
develop an optical array that could produce two collimated images so
that both sides of the binoculars could be tested simultaneously,
obviating the need to move the collimator.</div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
If
you have enjoyed this article and found it interesting then share it
with your friends on social media or suchlike. Please also feel free to
ask questions and or make comments and if you found this helpful and would like to support this site you can always <a href="https://ko-fi.com/X8X01EDNU" target="_blank"><img alt="Buy Me a Coffee at ko-fi.com" border="0" height="36" src="https://az743702.vo.msecnd.net/cdn/kofi3.png?v=2" style="border: 0px; height: 36px;" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Until next time and from a cold day in Normandie,</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Cheers, Andy</div>
<br />
© Andy Colley 2018<br />
<h2>
</h2>
<h2>
RELATED ARTICLES </h2>
<h2 class="post-title entry-title" style="text-align: justify;">
</h2>
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<h2 style="text-align: justify;">
Table Top Binocular Collimation Part 1 Materials & Fabrication</h2>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Following
on from my previous collimation experiment, I decided that in the
Winter it would be much better to be indoors! However, this was quite a
challenge on many levels...<b><a href="https://thegreenlever.blogspot.com/2018/11/diy-table-top-binocular-collimator.html#.W_a5qNJG2kA" target="_blank">read more</a></b><br />
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</h2>
<h2 style="text-align: justify;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_Tt15OVDtydWV6FoM6_0mCo_7FG_eNrJXyj7C-Ube69CPu7yercqXkyfmPqK3mPQoaAVGDz0iEnTxPIpIHdRDSn1NnFJeSA4GMGJ1JYeNnV3BcskIWaE-Y6lozraTJL0qj9fbM5aRGsA/s1600/IMG_5795blog.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_Tt15OVDtydWV6FoM6_0mCo_7FG_eNrJXyj7C-Ube69CPu7yercqXkyfmPqK3mPQoaAVGDz0iEnTxPIpIHdRDSn1NnFJeSA4GMGJ1JYeNnV3BcskIWaE-Y6lozraTJL0qj9fbM5aRGsA/s200/IMG_5795blog.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
Table Top Binocular Collimation Part 2 Modifications</h2>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
I observed that true
to the laws of physics, once the collimator lens was set at a distance
from the cross wire reticle equivalent to the lens’ focal length and the
light was turned on, the image of the wires were in focus in the
binocular eyepiece...BUT...<b><a href="https://thegreenlever.blogspot.com/2018/11/diy-table-top-binocular-collimator_59.html#.W_a_PtJG2kA" target="_blank">read more</a></b><br />
<div class="post-header">
</div>
<div class="post-body entry-content" id="post-body-1553699132784329510">
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
I was initially put off from correcting an optical fault in an old pair
of Porro prism binoculars because all I had seen or read online involved
prism adjustment...<b><a href="http://thegreenlever.blogspot.fr/2016/08/binocular-collimation-quick-and-easy.html#.V7r9gNGli1E" target="_blank">read more</a></b></div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
The Green Leverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01335293795269368752noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3199850434720533796.post-32085609214578176392018-11-22T15:37:00.001+01:002020-07-07T14:34:46.280+02:00DIY Table Top Binocular Collimator - Modifications to Method/Apparatus <br />
<div class="step-body">
<div style="text-align: justify;">
As I started setting up I observed that true
to the laws of physics, once the collimator lens was set at a distance
from the cross wire reticle equivalent to the lens’ focal length and the
light was turned on, the image of the wires were in focus in the
binocular eyepiece. This, even though they were less than 40” (1m) from
the object and that image, through the eyepiece, could be viewed
through the spotting scope. BUT I was aware that I had not ensured that
the collimated image was hitting the center of the objective nor that
the binoculars’ optical axes were parallel to the centre line of the
collimated beam both important criteria had been omitted from the book.
Nor had I established that the binoculars were parallel to the table
top.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBZLwdd8HKdgtem-L7xRtE5gUTvJciXiIYBWmzYi30X7weKP1Oh44M3P1LGxgcglZbRgzrK8QONB0vT7lkaMKS8X8gn2z1J0jPdQfqcMor1Cjzt1Nstrk3lt6Q18TdTLA1Qwz3BLRv1xo/s1600/IMG_5795blog.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Table top binocular collimation" border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="476" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBZLwdd8HKdgtem-L7xRtE5gUTvJciXiIYBWmzYi30X7weKP1Oh44M3P1LGxgcglZbRgzrK8QONB0vT7lkaMKS8X8gn2z1J0jPdQfqcMor1Cjzt1Nstrk3lt6Q18TdTLA1Qwz3BLRv1xo/s640/IMG_5795blog.JPG" title="Measuring dew ring diameter" width="715" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
From the above I deduced that the only point of reference
that I had was that everything had to centre on the axis of the
collimated light beam. Both the binoculars and the spotting scope would
need to be on or parallel with that axis. On this basis I concluded that
I needed a method to determine that the collimated image was coincident
with the centre of the objective lens and that I needed to use this
same image for establishing the second criteria.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi37TW7nUBpD3eh4tDJGxBYv_BI4qxp9cHZ9PCo07pAk3GISta3ihlpxDSgDRi1UyCfk6lPLAOPrQX3KxtFU2MnmO9R7vGO9VCzzGI7t7zFbMCJ5WudShZzn66pQgsvbUaLCd7afeB-zz0/s1600/IMG_5746blogmix.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Table top binocular alignment" border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="476" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi37TW7nUBpD3eh4tDJGxBYv_BI4qxp9cHZ9PCo07pAk3GISta3ihlpxDSgDRi1UyCfk6lPLAOPrQX3KxtFU2MnmO9R7vGO9VCzzGI7t7zFbMCJ5WudShZzn66pQgsvbUaLCd7afeB-zz0/s640/IMG_5746blogmix.JPG" title="Cutting objective lens covers" width="715" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuZfpmpE5RDvWvzTnPx33u0s-22vVx2jq1sQI6IZo3o-UFpX1NSd5mY6i7s81Zu0V8Bk7BKbaMonyLdpbJr8ulwPPOa4pgpmn7kBRlgqs235lOZJX9G8KVJXPOOCLUvc9l8d8fJhLm0Us/s1600/IMG_5697blog.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Using collimator as a projector" border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuZfpmpE5RDvWvzTnPx33u0s-22vVx2jq1sQI6IZo3o-UFpX1NSd5mY6i7s81Zu0V8Bk7BKbaMonyLdpbJr8ulwPPOa4pgpmn7kBRlgqs235lOZJX9G8KVJXPOOCLUvc9l8d8fJhLm0Us/s320/IMG_5697blog.JPG" title="Centred cross wire image" width="320" /></a></div>
To center the
image, I cut two thin cardboard discs to fit inside the dew cap of the
objective lenses. To make these, I measured the dew cap internal
diameter with Vernier calipers and used a pair of compass dividers to
scribe a circle to that diameter in the card. By continuously scribing
with the dividers, the card was eventually cut through producing an
exact card circle with a centre hole marked within.. To these two discs
I glued a piece of twine to facilitate easy removal from the dew cap.
With the binoculars in place on the support I inserted the discs. I
found that I could see the shadow of the cross wires on the objective by
moving the target within the collimator box away from the collimator
lens until a sharp image could be seen on the disc. Thus I was able to
use the collimator as a crude but effective projector.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioCfX03E7Yw0sjQhcayYaoWyalygg5sFf5MkDJp1h3qQC6rfJALcX14nnaJJ2CO8XbwbUtAjYLWevbxonc4Rwp0iKhw09y6Mswvq8d_PT2ticJmPuVOrpy2umavixnonHB9uNArsLCjrQ/s1600/IMG_5736blogmix.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="DIY table top binocular collimation" border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="476" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioCfX03E7Yw0sjQhcayYaoWyalygg5sFf5MkDJp1h3qQC6rfJALcX14nnaJJ2CO8XbwbUtAjYLWevbxonc4Rwp0iKhw09y6Mswvq8d_PT2ticJmPuVOrpy2umavixnonHB9uNArsLCjrQ/s640/IMG_5736blogmix.JPG" title="Collimator end wall lens supports" width="715" /></a></div>
</div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Moving the
cross wire target also highlighted the image shift if the target was not
kept vertical or if it twisted so that it did not remain perpendicular
to the walls of the light box. Before I could proceed I decided to fix
the position of the reticle so that it remained vertical and square to
the lens. Having done this I needed to make the collimator lens position
adjustable so that I could obtain: </div>
<ul>
<li>The collimated cross wire image as before </li>
<li>A focused image of the cross wires on the discs in the dew caps. </li>
<li style="text-align: justify;">Additional
adjustment to increase the distance of the focused image by
approximately two. (This to be explained in the solution to
establishing that the binoculars’ optical axis was collinear with that
of the collimator). </li>
</ul>
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjon0M_3Zg4Q44bewyMn4R9f4AdS1rKgyuBYBxJM4YuzWHz2TJpQNlPEkDHbPVSuld0n4YTArp4o-1nYS0JRcdFQ3w6cXXX9e56suJsJ-gr1U1EVL-b06QpK9nB5qtguXkMc42sfXI2wjY/s1600/IMG_5734blog.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="DIY binocular collimator lens cell" border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="476" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjon0M_3Zg4Q44bewyMn4R9f4AdS1rKgyuBYBxJM4YuzWHz2TJpQNlPEkDHbPVSuld0n4YTArp4o-1nYS0JRcdFQ3w6cXXX9e56suJsJ-gr1U1EVL-b06QpK9nB5qtguXkMc42sfXI2wjY/s640/IMG_5734blog.JPG" title="Finished lens cell and materials" width="715" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQD0soWntFH_jGEr0zvWU2as042JCADDFAfNc_rk-okxDd1ZVOmjgaAXaS-t0_tCR4845nyzF5lrK_XGKe5PaB76Q2F-OPVwAUF5yenNS-2T8gjb_GrCQsL6RzDbFKagrMA8nEXXngsZo/s1600/IMG_5727blog.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="DIY table top binocular alighment" border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQD0soWntFH_jGEr0zvWU2as042JCADDFAfNc_rk-okxDd1ZVOmjgaAXaS-t0_tCR4845nyzF5lrK_XGKe5PaB76Q2F-OPVwAUF5yenNS-2T8gjb_GrCQsL6RzDbFKagrMA8nEXXngsZo/s320/IMG_5727blog.JPG" title="Lens cell in position in collimator" width="320" /></a></div>
I decided to fabricate a cylindrical
housing for the collimator lens and for this I used a cleaned plastic
tube from a silicone mastic dispenser. I made a lens cell to hold the
lens out of the plastic piston within the mastic tube and fixed this in
the end of the tube using the glue gun. The end wall of the collimator
box was modified to accommodate this new lens arrangement with the
addition of further guides/supports attached to both the inner and outer
faces of the wall.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEqfukFFPm2TchvdDfZbdhi64ImweMMnygN2JqQjybCw4Yxge1eLZPDu05khdg5gMwQUAL13q-Q64fj5YSUp9xuKlPi9QPYQnnhaqNrNuJwsiZ2vAb1csh7bBY_mb3JYe3h5gO95gkhZ4/s1600/IMG_5724blog.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Make your own collimator" border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="476" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEqfukFFPm2TchvdDfZbdhi64ImweMMnygN2JqQjybCw4Yxge1eLZPDu05khdg5gMwQUAL13q-Q64fj5YSUp9xuKlPi9QPYQnnhaqNrNuJwsiZ2vAb1csh7bBY_mb3JYe3h5gO95gkhZ4/s640/IMG_5724blog.JPG" title="Internal view of completed collimator" width="715" /></a></div>
</div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
INSTRUMENTS: <a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DL6KZ1C/ref=as_li_ss_tl?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07DL6KZ1C&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=f0dedbe2-13c8-4136-a746-4398ed93cf0f&pd_rd_wg=akwwJ&pf_rd_r=0TTHTKJAPMR254Y8GJT7&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&pd_rd_w=Twlbu&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pd_rd_r=cc04d00a-ec01-11e8-9fce-e3b457f31c52&linkCode=ll1&tag=thegreenlever-20&linkId=4988b2fc8cae087d51c7e7f736c11827">Vernier Calipers</a>, <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Toolmakers-Precision-Dividers-Calipers-Compass/dp/B0181SPG88/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1542635486&sr=8-4&keywords=compass+dividers&linkCode=ll1&tag=thegreenlever-20&linkId=e858a27e648efa66e1423821279bf9e1">Precision Compass Dividers</a>
<br />
<br />
In the next article we look at the experiment proper<br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
If
you have enjoyed this article and found it interesting then share it
with your friends on social media or suchlike. Please also feel free to
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Until next time and from a cold day in Normandie,</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Cheers, Andy</div>
<br />
© Andy Colley 2018<br />
<h2>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg12TXIo7YeSziMLsUNbYxdh8e3J_CcJNyfkT1P__KwzwDNoypKiRjr-rich87APefDLRmwQPx8TbF0DgUqEYLdId_2FngiC0SB89aOkV4uf1PRupmxr2yEIWSJZplOwS1qeA9PkAYHJiY/s1600/IMG_5775ablog.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="132" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg12TXIo7YeSziMLsUNbYxdh8e3J_CcJNyfkT1P__KwzwDNoypKiRjr-rich87APefDLRmwQPx8TbF0DgUqEYLdId_2FngiC0SB89aOkV4uf1PRupmxr2yEIWSJZplOwS1qeA9PkAYHJiY/s200/IMG_5775ablog.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
<h2 style="text-align: justify;">
Table Top Binocular Collimation Part 1 Materials & Fabrication</h2>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Following
on from my previous collimation experiment, I decided that in the
Winter it would be much better to be indoors! However, this was quite a
challenge on many levels...<b><a href="https://thegreenlever.blogspot.com/2018/11/diy-table-top-binocular-collimator.html#.W_a5qNJG2kA" target="_blank">read more</a></b><br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<h2 class="post-title entry-title" style="text-align: justify;">
</h2>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<h2 style="text-align: justify;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihZBAUMg72buDD4kHbAI2zxvBwKtsJAytlDisCRjm6rFHBaH8_d3vhyphenhyphenIRRKiZzCEWxQWQv-kCUjH9f4LhgnPc9wXzUgiOzTRwLmkiXQzeawvK7-TmE8gAwjZ8lfSFah8UHRDvoz54yL9g/s1600/IMG_5785blog.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihZBAUMg72buDD4kHbAI2zxvBwKtsJAytlDisCRjm6rFHBaH8_d3vhyphenhyphenIRRKiZzCEWxQWQv-kCUjH9f4LhgnPc9wXzUgiOzTRwLmkiXQzeawvK7-TmE8gAwjZ8lfSFah8UHRDvoz54yL9g/s200/IMG_5785blog.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
Table Top Binocular Collimation Part 3 The Experiment</h2>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Following
on from my previous collimation experiment, I decided that in the
Winter it would be much better to be indoors! However, this was quite a
challenge on many levels...<b><a href="https://thegreenlever.blogspot.com/2018/11/diy-table-top-binocular-collimator_22.html#.W_bBC9JG2kA" target="_blank">read more</a></b></div>
</div>
</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ9_EXQKsQnzAbsqRDqfMSgWSi9Xj5Lu4uxrHf9C3clWiWQY4u66f0kgMal0vGGsfElBosEl-_5jtQIjlnIPp2Tl-W30-njqDPLg1jmARqzbuhU2XC-xoAoAJ0kALOmiVWbABtLyywxbE/s1600/IMG_4097blog.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ9_EXQKsQnzAbsqRDqfMSgWSi9Xj5Lu4uxrHf9C3clWiWQY4u66f0kgMal0vGGsfElBosEl-_5jtQIjlnIPp2Tl-W30-njqDPLg1jmARqzbuhU2XC-xoAoAJ0kALOmiVWbABtLyywxbE/s200/IMG_4097blog.JPG" width="200" /></a>Binocular Collimation Quick and Easy Method without Prism Adjustment </h2>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
I was initially put off from correcting an optical fault in an old pair
of Porro prism binoculars because all I had seen or read online involved
prism adjustment...<b><a href="http://thegreenlever.blogspot.fr/2016/08/binocular-collimation-quick-and-easy.html#.V7r9gNGli1E" target="_blank">read more</a></b></div>
</div>
. </div>
The Green Leverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01335293795269368752noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3199850434720533796.post-31524741929436522372018-11-22T15:13:00.001+01:002020-07-07T14:35:27.770+02:00DIY Table Top Binocular Collimator - Sourcing Materials & Fabrication <div style="text-align: justify;">
My first experience of re-aligning the optics in an old pair of
binoculars although successful relied heavily on a subjective
assessment of how the images could be brought into alignment by
altering the optical path through the binocular’s objective lens. I
was intrigued by how a ‘scientific’ method could produce a more
satisfactory result. <br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwhSXKMN4vY2nUV8Mzd2tPQ70N7DOnC2ULaLrr6RWhNNTHLGIp0rG7qO6UDKCEovfZYs2mT9E-4FhFkjtwX9ErEGTkxNUwaUvYum5y2bo7RoJEcXjm9gMMyCGCjr4qmMYjWJ-6itlG6Bc/s1600/IMG_5775ablog.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="477" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwhSXKMN4vY2nUV8Mzd2tPQ70N7DOnC2ULaLrr6RWhNNTHLGIp0rG7qO6UDKCEovfZYs2mT9E-4FhFkjtwX9ErEGTkxNUwaUvYum5y2bo7RoJEcXjm9gMMyCGCjr4qmMYjWJ-6itlG6Bc/s640/IMG_5775ablog.JPG" width="715" /></a></div>
<br />
<br /></div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
To this end I decided to make a collimating
setup similar to that described in the book by Seyfried. <br />
<br />
The advantage of this method is that the whole operation can be
undertaken indoors and within the confines of a table measuring less
than six feet by three feet.<br />
<br />
The arrangement comprised:<br />
<ul>
<li>table top </li>
<li>collimator </li>
<li>binocular mount </li>
<li>collimating scope </li>
</ul>
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNPzdIVlzQfeHjNnSuvsLUFStvsKPlMIVw4v3QikhzI8m3d1ZCCrE9BVXYFW3vWYDb2r4cjPCgPoVazBtVTgI8TBF0FsBaL_fKOP6uvl4Xj4PfL2k9pmwaaMGLIfc9UwenH9V57H0Un3s/s1600/IMG_5790ablog.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1514" data-original-width="1600" height="302" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNPzdIVlzQfeHjNnSuvsLUFStvsKPlMIVw4v3QikhzI8m3d1ZCCrE9BVXYFW3vWYDb2r4cjPCgPoVazBtVTgI8TBF0FsBaL_fKOP6uvl4Xj4PfL2k9pmwaaMGLIfc9UwenH9V57H0Un3s/s320/IMG_5790ablog.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
On
reading of the materials necessary to build this apparatus, I realised
that I had all the items in my workshop all I had to do was put them
together. However, I have provided some links to sources for tools and
equipment, which I hope will prove useful.<br />
<br />
Here also is the link to the book, It is out of print but you can still find it: <b><a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/Choosing-Using-Repairing-Binoculars-Seyfried/dp/0934639019/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1538572468&sr=8-1&keywords=choosing+using+and+repairing+binoculars&linkCode=ll1&tag=thegrelev-21&linkId=f7ab36e3b503cd2159a96db9736a8f40&language=en_GB" target="_blank">'<i>Choosing, Using and Repairing Binoculars</i>' by J.W. Seyfried'</a></b> is the link for the UK.<br />
<br />
Here is the US Link: <b>'<a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0934639019/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=thegreenlever-20&linkId=0214f9ee18625a949cab923e6ffa1cb2" target="_blank"><i>Choosing, Using and Repairing Binoculars</i>' by J.W. Seyfried'</a></b><br />
<b> </b> </div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Once I got down to the
construction, however, I realised that there were several potential
problems with the layout. When I checked online for information and/or
to see if anyone else had undertaken the experiment, I could find no
evidence that it had been attempted. With our kitchen table out of
action and us having to cook and prepare meals around the set up, this
was going to be an interesting challenge on many levels. </div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9EDNRQvJa5w9D4dAs_KCNBCNPjz-5dhAnmGmAB80F7D1HT1YzSY22-0EYfbGyXtu6SJ49KZTqXw5XXWqSI4UWzAbsoWCLBQvykdiSJjTFDdK1IATDmVzgYAXBhzloT_JnwrHVhAROc7o/s1600/P1080369blog.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="536" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9EDNRQvJa5w9D4dAs_KCNBCNPjz-5dhAnmGmAB80F7D1HT1YzSY22-0EYfbGyXtu6SJ49KZTqXw5XXWqSI4UWzAbsoWCLBQvykdiSJjTFDdK1IATDmVzgYAXBhzloT_JnwrHVhAROc7o/s640/P1080369blog.JPG" width="715" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<h2>
<span style="font-size: large;">COMPONENTS:
</span> </h2>
<br />
<h2>
Table Top </h2>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYlX9KIJgTjOwHN6KcXTpDxrq0GhPlGBreSIofxSEOkD3uN3BEgA_aMjOpf1TbsIz6rfb-eHiZwt2SVcpaE3esaHIEhPqyP_vGg4ow3XwJuA5x4dQfIS3CodrdFfCptb40uCOubezAGjI/s1600/IMG_5765blog.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYlX9KIJgTjOwHN6KcXTpDxrq0GhPlGBreSIofxSEOkD3uN3BEgA_aMjOpf1TbsIz6rfb-eHiZwt2SVcpaE3esaHIEhPqyP_vGg4ow3XwJuA5x4dQfIS3CodrdFfCptb40uCOubezAGjI/s400/IMG_5765blog.JPG" width="266" /></a></div>
Both the collimator and the collimating scope needed to move laterally
so that the light could be directed through each half of the binocular
and the effect observed. On a workbench I would have screwed horizontal
rails to the top of the bench to hold the pedestal base of each of the
components so that they could be moved parallel to each other. As I was
using the kitchen table, I decided to place on top of it a trestle table
top I made some years ago from pallet wood. This I placed upside down
on the kitchen table as the pallet wood planks were nailed to four laths
that would suffice as the guide rails.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>It is important to note that I
estimated a practicable height for the binocular support and used it as
the required heights for the centre lines of the collimating scope and
the collimator. </b><br />
<br />
<br />
<h2>
Collimator.</h2>
<div class="step-body">
The most important part of this kit is the
means by which an object appears to the binocular to be at ‘infinity’. A
collimator is such a device; a cross-hair reticle is illuminated using a
low wattage light bulb. A lens placed on the other side of the reticle
at its focal length will make the light beam parallel. To the binocular,
the parallel light path appears to come from a great distance and hence
its optical elements will bring to focus in the eyepiece an image of
the reticle.<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRegViTn4umCJfUIrhOBdWWH4hY0Jtg14VCis72XxHBA79mHDRdIfbEXa6E3zvNJlL-M3bXaTOreSsG8TIG14JP3T5IdzguCo9VrDEnWWmBgnfM54cAfbSr0864WDGTf1FFEKmuVZ9y4g/s1600/IMG_5022blog.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="476" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRegViTn4umCJfUIrhOBdWWH4hY0Jtg14VCis72XxHBA79mHDRdIfbEXa6E3zvNJlL-M3bXaTOreSsG8TIG14JP3T5IdzguCo9VrDEnWWmBgnfM54cAfbSr0864WDGTf1FFEKmuVZ9y4g/s640/IMG_5022blog.JPG" width="715" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKQGw0X-PjkVX3SpNaQ2A171ZxlZN6FB026dQCzds7H-9nsgSxK4URwnMQuhqdlczxHmNmeva-KG1LgooJtOX98zRBDAL9PK9r0WavLy5Y3xpRlxkQBdXWCBKs9S5DDgRq0Imz_fQ8IQY/s1600/IMG_5099crop.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1407" data-original-width="1600" height="175" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKQGw0X-PjkVX3SpNaQ2A171ZxlZN6FB026dQCzds7H-9nsgSxK4URwnMQuhqdlczxHmNmeva-KG1LgooJtOX98zRBDAL9PK9r0WavLy5Y3xpRlxkQBdXWCBKs9S5DDgRq0Imz_fQ8IQY/s200/IMG_5099crop.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
My light box for the collimator was made from thin
(½”) pallet wood. My light source was an old garage inspection lamp from
which I had removed the bulb protection cage. This cage was attached to
the plastic body of the lamp with a metal threaded collar. I attached
the collar to the inside rim of the hole I had cut in the end wall of
the box using a Jigsaw with three short screws and could then screw the
lamp body into it. However, a <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-9875-Porcelain-Incandescent-Lampholder/dp/B00002N7IM/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1542632543&sr=8-15&keywords=light+bulb+holder&linkCode=ll1&tag=thegreenlever-20&linkId=ca9066e1790f678dad9bf64e053b1ced">bulb holder</a> screwed to the rear wall of the box would suffice. I used an <a href="https://www.amazon.com/d/LED-Light-Bulbs/BRTLX-6000k-White-220%C2%B0Not-Dimmable/B073B85DXC/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1542632895&sr=8-4&keywords=led+6000k&linkCode=ll1&tag=thegreenlever-20&linkId=ad127d051a156c4f3dee3179ce41eca9">LED 6000K Bulb</a><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbajNy1U_8n0Os6drs4lkz53v4bNqUX5xaWFf6_sfQ34IFXnlCz6NmPxtMqA5LoKPb_lTwcoINHzuWIKGrPuz6vK3HbbTHMWNomP4fbAaBIT9c3uksHAK-FfTeBo6OJ_1xj9DZGKccXEY/s1600/IMG_5327blog.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1508" data-original-width="1600" height="188" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbajNy1U_8n0Os6drs4lkz53v4bNqUX5xaWFf6_sfQ34IFXnlCz6NmPxtMqA5LoKPb_lTwcoINHzuWIKGrPuz6vK3HbbTHMWNomP4fbAaBIT9c3uksHAK-FfTeBo6OJ_1xj9DZGKccXEY/s200/IMG_5327blog.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
The
reticle housing was of the same wood as the rest of the box, cut to fit
the interior width of the box with enough clearance on the width for it
to be moved towards and away from the light.. A circular hole was cut
centrally within this. I made the reticle from thin copper wire held in
place by four screws – I wound the ends of the two pieces of wire
around the screws. After the initial observations of this reticle
through the rest of the equipment, I realised that the cross wires could
not be simultaneously brought into focus due to my being unable to wind
the wires tightly enough around the screws. I changed this by soldering
the two wires together at their point of intersection and then used a
glue gun to secure the other ends to the support frame whilst keeping
each wire under tension.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-kaDppy2uG4MVCrZcL7EmKXElMX21ga2pEkpLbjmle_ebuRVHjDp1Vp2C1fmSutvYpKWTDfxvwN4Aj5sT0CmifUsf7wdytZaxLXRRvjNSM0e1ZbhRSK3SnRcBnbOuOMjTlQ5R92NP214/s1600/IMG_5414blog.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="476" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-kaDppy2uG4MVCrZcL7EmKXElMX21ga2pEkpLbjmle_ebuRVHjDp1Vp2C1fmSutvYpKWTDfxvwN4Aj5sT0CmifUsf7wdytZaxLXRRvjNSM0e1ZbhRSK3SnRcBnbOuOMjTlQ5R92NP214/s640/IMG_5414blog.JPG" width="715" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
The exit hole cut in the end wall was
made to fit a magnifying glass I had in my workshop. I subsequently
replaced this lens with a smaller, less powerful lens due to some
infuriating problems when trying to set up the apparatus. The moveable
reticle housing was fixed at a distance equal to the focal length of the
lens.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtt-sAM3R7272PPDxqHSpP0PyaqC-ohvvPhfe3UMXQU3-AXL1p8_I4-68EA6CrtnPgJ2-y7SE_q2fdVsX2UzfKOr7or7Gnc6fWvHZLn0xYHwgsrTyGTlt5dTqLuDDLU9e1yON_4KudC6I/s1600/IMG_5725blog.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="911" data-original-width="1600" height="407" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtt-sAM3R7272PPDxqHSpP0PyaqC-ohvvPhfe3UMXQU3-AXL1p8_I4-68EA6CrtnPgJ2-y7SE_q2fdVsX2UzfKOr7or7Gnc6fWvHZLn0xYHwgsrTyGTlt5dTqLuDDLU9e1yON_4KudC6I/s640/IMG_5725blog.JPG" width="715" /></a></div>
<br />
The lightbox was screwed to two supports set at a distance
to rest against the inside vertical faces of the laths on the underside
(now uppermost) face of the table top so that the collimator could be
moved to align with either of the binocular objectives. The photograph above shows the lightbox after certain necessary modifications had taken place and these are discussed in the next article. This was a real 'thinking-on-your-feet' experiment and I didn't always remember to take images of each stage!<br />
<br />
TOOLS:<a href="https://www.amazon.com/d/Jig-Saws/BLACK-DECKER-BDEJS600C-Select-5-0-Amp/B00OJ72LHK/ref=as_li_ss_tl?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1542633059&sr=1-2&keywords=Jigsaw&linkCode=ll1&tag=thegreenlever-20&linkId=d89974dff5e0fa6eb18883f374f3789c"> Jigsaw</a>, <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Cobiz-Premium-Sticks-Christmas-Decoration/dp/B0721PTD5B/ref=as_li_ss_tl?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1542634822&sr=1-6&keywords=Glue+gun&linkCode=ll1&tag=thegreenlever-20&linkId=043305a2d48c9c7950c42b82730aa44a">Glue Gun</a>, <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Soldering-Iron-Kit-Temperature-Screwdrivers/dp/B07GJNKQ8W/ref=as_li_ss_tl?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1542635083&sr=1-2-spons&keywords=soldering+iron&psc=1&linkCode=ll1&tag=thegreenlever-20&linkId=9f0ed55ce8b9401a6b01de829a641f40">Soldering Iron</a>, Screwdriver and Hand Saw<br />
EQUIPMENT: <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Eisco-Piece-Premium-Optical-Diameter/dp/B00BIKGMZ8/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1542634736&sr=8-4&keywords=lens+set+science&linkCode=ll1&tag=thegreenlever-20&linkId=51544815a8ea816ee7a0785ed7a8b928">Optical Glass Lens</a></div>
<br />
<h2>
Collimating Scope </h2>
<div class="step-body">
Being an amateur astronomer I had to hand a
6x30 finder scope from my telescope. This has within its lens system a
cross-hair reticle ideal for aligning with the target cross wires in the
collimator. Alternatives to this would be a budget-priced telescopic
sight for a rifle.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjtqZS6NbLnMi5z-mIu4tA4u3ltoRFPmzpC3OFwdFexQWlELq3hmyRnIU4MRGtGhrqvzplk98g2jlDSjL-nnHVYAjtm8KAcTfyCjlDsg8PuqoQBFVYmZFEtWSoYkwt_Bsyy7arZN6hGUE/s1600/IMG_5739blog.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="476" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjtqZS6NbLnMi5z-mIu4tA4u3ltoRFPmzpC3OFwdFexQWlELq3hmyRnIU4MRGtGhrqvzplk98g2jlDSjL-nnHVYAjtm8KAcTfyCjlDsg8PuqoQBFVYmZFEtWSoYkwt_Bsyy7arZN6hGUE/s640/IMG_5739blog.JPG" width="715" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA0OhjiLMjDClNYao7-qV7JvhACROKCDOJTacY3rTEPiedOsZL5iNcIQqjaIW63E42rfxzfhSEiCW918tIs_2RSg9u5R1P4rWGgxUJqcizbMziM8Q6MQE4FsErMAHiUtZ28BO57yl9Jis/s1600/IMG_5396blog.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA0OhjiLMjDClNYao7-qV7JvhACROKCDOJTacY3rTEPiedOsZL5iNcIQqjaIW63E42rfxzfhSEiCW918tIs_2RSg9u5R1P4rWGgxUJqcizbMziM8Q6MQE4FsErMAHiUtZ28BO57yl9Jis/s200/IMG_5396blog.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
I made a support for the scope from pallet
wood. I’d read that the alignment method should take into account the
changes that arise when the the interpupillary distance (ipd) is altered
i.e., when the binoculars are at the extremes of their movement on the
central hinge. A change in the ipd would result in a change in the
vertical position of the optical axis of the binoculars, thus I needed
to make the height of the scope above the table adjustable. This I did
by supporting the scopes’ mounting plinth on three 10mm threaded rods.
Vertical movement was effected by screwing the nuts beneath the plinth
up or down.<br />
<br />
EQUIPMENT: <a href="https://www.amazon.com/SVBONY-Bracket-Accessory-Astronomy-Telescope/dp/B013I32ZYE/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1542633241&sr=8-9&keywords=finder+scope+for+astronomy&linkCode=ll1&tag=thegreenlever-20&linkId=c148e88e8c2956b6d553e0f4fe1ee7fc">Finder scope</a> or <a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CTGF8XT/ref=as_li_ss_tl?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07CTGF8XT&linkCode=ll1&tag=thegreenlever-20&linkId=680bd78bbfa67502926a3a37abe3afb0">Rifle scope</a></div>
<br />
<h2>
Binocular Mount
</h2>
<div class="step-body">
The binoculars under assessment needed to be
rigidly attached to the worktable top at a height adequate for allowing
access for adjustment either of the prisms or the objective lenses. The
mount would also have to allow the ipd to be adjusted from maximum to
minimum.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiErrA0lHprpsUSgmyK2UGQvVi6wucpOeR6D7e0hWycJ6QyIhwPJ8E3UbiPf6wbzMwUdCSq-S5uW4ZUxBYbNcnbzbsAkC9f397bsZS91ozkFRWkp5T3tSj_L92ztNAJJNhTEwb1UJPMq90/s1600/IMG_5775ablog.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="476" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiErrA0lHprpsUSgmyK2UGQvVi6wucpOeR6D7e0hWycJ6QyIhwPJ8E3UbiPf6wbzMwUdCSq-S5uW4ZUxBYbNcnbzbsAkC9f397bsZS91ozkFRWkp5T3tSj_L92ztNAJJNhTEwb1UJPMq90/s640/IMG_5775ablog.JPG" width="715" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJKze7AEJz6tZE_pAc1OG24bTyAPJIkeWjgKk7sROvnIiHs_fZ9FYB13pymyazVsDcbF5UxzhnEre-Xq0GMPNbMFJNqOlXwC8TUSyu2nmMcVQuSCrF3YvE6oyPMDWMHpGWKcsFFaWfvZc/s1600/IMG_5741crop.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="915" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJKze7AEJz6tZE_pAc1OG24bTyAPJIkeWjgKk7sROvnIiHs_fZ9FYB13pymyazVsDcbF5UxzhnEre-Xq0GMPNbMFJNqOlXwC8TUSyu2nmMcVQuSCrF3YvE6oyPMDWMHpGWKcsFFaWfvZc/s320/IMG_5741crop.JPG" width="182" /></a></div>
I chose to attach the support to the binoculars using the
threaded hole in the binoculars' hinge, this is normally used for
attaching the binoculars to a tripod. I had in my ‘optical bits and
bobs’ a spotter scope tripod mounting bracket made by Vanguard (model
ref QT-30) and this I secured to a wooden support via two ¼” (6mm)
bolts. This would give me approximately ±1½” (±35mm) vertical movement,
more than enough to accommodate the change in objective centre line
height when the interpupillary distance is altered.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
EQUIPMENT:<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Vangurd-Vanguard-QT-30-Tripod-Mount/dp/B001BBLGVO/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1542633993&sr=8-1&keywords=Vanguard++QT-30&linkCode=ll1&tag=thegreenlever-20&linkId=55c7a8d1d4d6497663ad1c31053b2844"> Vanguard QT-30 Tripod Mount</a> or there are cheaper <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Celestron-93524-Binocular-Tripod-Adapter/dp/B003HC89LU/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1542634152&sr=8-4&keywords=binocular+tripod+mount&linkCode=ll1&tag=thegreenlever-20&linkId=193fe5f829eb388c7ec9d50d26d5828d">Binocular Tripod Adapters </a>but they will need to be fitted to a vertically adjustable mount.<br />
<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
In
the next article we look at the modifications needed to make this work.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
If
you have enjoyed this article and found it interesting then share it
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Until next time and from a cold day in Normandie,</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Cheers, Andy</div>
<br />
© Andy Colley 2018<br />
<h2>
RELATED ARTICLES <br />
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Table Top Binocular Collimation Part 2 Modifications</h2>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
I observed that true
to the laws of physics, once the collimator lens was set at a distance
from the cross wire reticle equivalent to the lens’ focal length and the
light was turned on, the image of the wires were in focus in the
binocular eyepiece...BUT...<b><a href="https://thegreenlever.blogspot.com/2018/11/diy-table-top-binocular-collimator_59.html#.W_a_PtJG2kA" target="_blank">read more</a></b><br />
<h2 class="post-title entry-title" style="text-align: justify;">
</h2>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihZBAUMg72buDD4kHbAI2zxvBwKtsJAytlDisCRjm6rFHBaH8_d3vhyphenhyphenIRRKiZzCEWxQWQv-kCUjH9f4LhgnPc9wXzUgiOzTRwLmkiXQzeawvK7-TmE8gAwjZ8lfSFah8UHRDvoz54yL9g/s1600/IMG_5785blog.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihZBAUMg72buDD4kHbAI2zxvBwKtsJAytlDisCRjm6rFHBaH8_d3vhyphenhyphenIRRKiZzCEWxQWQv-kCUjH9f4LhgnPc9wXzUgiOzTRwLmkiXQzeawvK7-TmE8gAwjZ8lfSFah8UHRDvoz54yL9g/s200/IMG_5785blog.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
Table Top Binocular Collimation Part 3 The Experiment</h2>
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Following
on from my previous collimation experiment, I decided that in the
Winter it would be much better to be indoors! However, this was quite a
challenge on many levels...<b><a href="https://thegreenlever.blogspot.com/2018/11/diy-table-top-binocular-collimator_22.html#.W_bBC9JG2kA" target="_blank">read more</a></b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ9_EXQKsQnzAbsqRDqfMSgWSi9Xj5Lu4uxrHf9C3clWiWQY4u66f0kgMal0vGGsfElBosEl-_5jtQIjlnIPp2Tl-W30-njqDPLg1jmARqzbuhU2XC-xoAoAJ0kALOmiVWbABtLyywxbE/s1600/IMG_4097blog.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ9_EXQKsQnzAbsqRDqfMSgWSi9Xj5Lu4uxrHf9C3clWiWQY4u66f0kgMal0vGGsfElBosEl-_5jtQIjlnIPp2Tl-W30-njqDPLg1jmARqzbuhU2XC-xoAoAJ0kALOmiVWbABtLyywxbE/s200/IMG_4097blog.JPG" width="200" /></a>Binocular Collimation Quick and Easy Method without Prism Adjustment </h2>
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I was initially put off from correcting an optical fault in an old pair
of Porro prism binoculars because all I had seen or read online involved
prism adjustment...<b><a href="http://thegreenlever.blogspot.fr/2016/08/binocular-collimation-quick-and-easy.html#.V7r9gNGli1E" target="_blank">read more</a></b></div>
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The Green Leverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01335293795269368752noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3199850434720533796.post-4862818586565972642018-10-03T13:38:00.001+02:002022-01-05T19:04:23.742+01:00Pallet Wood Driveway Gates Detailed Step-by-Step Design & Construction<div style="text-align: justify;">
This was a project for a friend who had an existing UPVC set of drive gates that she wanted replacing. As she lives on the beach, these needed to be of robust build and also with solid fixtures and fittings to withstand both the Westerlies from across the Atlantic and the heavy salt spray in the Winter. As the drive itself was uneven and the existing granite posts and hinges old but serviceable, I also intended to fit a set of support wheels to the gates in order to both facilitate opening and to prevent sagging.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbeogpYvQNQqOQ6KRKqHFAJFwsCvxSdBtGMF8LDvSsJYu0c1GHG3P53ZZsXohn9y3y7tNSZeJV9iOrotUVL1nHH5Sy2VJFwAe_2c78trAbpcMGYBPL-AWkNhy2gxVPXMFgkIt8asQzBUc/s1600/IMG_1692BLOG.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Make Pallet Wood Driveway Gates" border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="476" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbeogpYvQNQqOQ6KRKqHFAJFwsCvxSdBtGMF8LDvSsJYu0c1GHG3P53ZZsXohn9y3y7tNSZeJV9iOrotUVL1nHH5Sy2VJFwAe_2c78trAbpcMGYBPL-AWkNhy2gxVPXMFgkIt8asQzBUc/s640/IMG_1692BLOG.JPG" title="DIY Pallet Wood Driveway Gates" width="715" /></a></div>
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<h2>
<span style="font-size: large;">Design</span></h2>
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I decided to replicate the sizes of the original gates in the pallet wood version, this meant that each gate had a width of 1750mm (69") and thus at nearly 6ft support wheels were essential. The existing granite gateposts had steel hinge supports with 12mm (½") pins embedded within them and I chose to mount the new gates from these pins. The gates were 95cm (37")high and when hung, the top rail was to be at a height of 102cm (40") from the ground. The exposed end grain of the four vertical sides and the vertical slats of the gate were protected with end caps for the former and chamfered capping strips for the latter.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-br0Vs_7xPZuoWjx6IrYiq8Rf1f4zo56l4RGorFHlrSWoYWblYF2PF3PbGMcOgNBBQ1QN_zsNc3IPN1Hdkwo75aDXIvSFC8dWe9UfKPWT_oFYYL3R5e_F68Ag8yYndw5tzITyH3RPg9M/s1600/P1020153blog.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Pallet wood for carpentry" border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="536" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-br0Vs_7xPZuoWjx6IrYiq8Rf1f4zo56l4RGorFHlrSWoYWblYF2PF3PbGMcOgNBBQ1QN_zsNc3IPN1Hdkwo75aDXIvSFC8dWe9UfKPWT_oFYYL3R5e_F68Ag8yYndw5tzITyH3RPg9M/s640/P1020153blog.JPG" title="My Pallet Wood Collection" width="715" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivf6aMTjN8Myr18GQTApFm3YsDIUh4UuwLaapbS0snDswj6IohDUxlcgX3s-IHw1IAcbdWDAzmboRAfiU3z2KdCiAk4TRXNi5mEgLkAWGSD1xcLDw4SlpLevStqBIh_NpBr4-4P1WMUXY/s1600/P1060546txt.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Pallet Stringers and Deckboards" border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivf6aMTjN8Myr18GQTApFm3YsDIUh4UuwLaapbS0snDswj6IohDUxlcgX3s-IHw1IAcbdWDAzmboRAfiU3z2KdCiAk4TRXNi5mEgLkAWGSD1xcLDw4SlpLevStqBIh_NpBr4-4P1WMUXY/s320/P1060546txt.jpg" title="Understanding pallets" width="320" /></a></div>
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As usual, pallet wood was chosen for the raw material and this was already in my stock of recuperated pallet wood. The width of each gate meant that the wood was from non-standard size pallets. The four vertical sides of the gates were 'stringers' from two-way entry pallets. Diagonal braces were used to stiffen each gate.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS3uby5v9IBHVX1P-8e4XLM3x1YtNOqTo1gFwOUj6tJB9V5nnyR69G9PxZW3-AmxBCE3dVgIRiDU0MWdlB4gFSZ3bgsOrr4WvJdEGWnHDnptwGkIPMJZCf0RXCghlmqTyWL9K0yhBwYIY/s1600/Screenshot+from+MVI_1403.MOV.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="DIY Pallet Wood Driveway Gates - planning design" border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1280" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS3uby5v9IBHVX1P-8e4XLM3x1YtNOqTo1gFwOUj6tJB9V5nnyR69G9PxZW3-AmxBCE3dVgIRiDU0MWdlB4gFSZ3bgsOrr4WvJdEGWnHDnptwGkIPMJZCf0RXCghlmqTyWL9K0yhBwYIY/s320/Screenshot+from+MVI_1403.MOV.png" title="Planning - Pallet Wood Driveway Gates" width="320" /></a></div>
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For the vertical slats, I laid the uncut timbers for the gate perimeter flat on the ground to the desired gate dimension and laid the slats upon them until I felt a pleasing result was obtained. In this case 11 evenly spaced slats were deemed sufficient. The slats were secured between horizontal rails that were fixed to the vertical sides of the gates.<br />
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<h2>
<span style="font-size: large;">Hardware & Where to Get It</span></h2>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0RAU9vgDPDPFwykytQ5Zh-1Ae8p6GkDiEaRdtvOiBiwPWQIb825Ui6pyZotTmpWKkJ4tkONMsUDdYIxtxuK_D7ceP1R8kZIzAsASZGGo-35m8DVot9LReX4k7UYvA5Ctk4Ntu88HXoL4/s1600/screws.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Pallet Wood Driveway Gates choosing screws" border="0" data-original-height="719" data-original-width="1100" height="261" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0RAU9vgDPDPFwykytQ5Zh-1Ae8p6GkDiEaRdtvOiBiwPWQIb825Ui6pyZotTmpWKkJ4tkONMsUDdYIxtxuK_D7ceP1R8kZIzAsASZGGo-35m8DVot9LReX4k7UYvA5Ctk4Ntu88HXoL4/s400/screws.png" title="Pallet Wood Driveway Gates screws and where to get them" width="400" /></a></div>
I ordered two sizes of wood screws I needed in the gate construction viz: <b>5x40mm </b>and
<b>5x50mm</b> from Reisser Cutter at Amazon UK<br />
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They are also available from Reisser Cutter in these same sizes:- <a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007PNJUWO/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=thegreenlever-20&linkId=374bec30bbd887679e97f3af45b0e6cc&language=en_US" target="_blank"> <b>5 x 40mm</b></a> and <b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Reisser-Cutter-5033543850509-Wood-Screw/dp/B007PNKG8Q/ref=as_li_ss_tl?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1538309709&sr=1-2&keywords=reisser+Cutter+5.0+x+50mm+woodscrews&&linkCode=ll1&tag=thegreenlever-20&linkId=1d6d2ba9ea988b818cb2014d5f8811a2&language=en_US" target="_blank">5 x 50mm</a></b> at Amazon USA<br />
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(Note the salt spray on the lens!) <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja5yeDirBfxdpnwbhFeyJBHoeXGy0BGuHvEkcY2LKNn10xKOFmXB6EuatKM5YtfTXn4L50RadS0UFzPK9x2R4tfGnx8sbsOsEhXv8YFIKqr5iUvxiaBsgc1jJx0Yg_3ixX9f7lIvISQFk/s1600/strap+hinges.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Pallet Wood Driveway Gates choosing strap hinges" border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1184" height="435" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja5yeDirBfxdpnwbhFeyJBHoeXGy0BGuHvEkcY2LKNn10xKOFmXB6EuatKM5YtfTXn4L50RadS0UFzPK9x2R4tfGnx8sbsOsEhXv8YFIKqr5iUvxiaBsgc1jJx0Yg_3ixX9f7lIvISQFk/s640/strap+hinges.png" title="Pallet Wood Driveway Gates - strap hinges" width="715" /></a></div>
I chose 600mm (24") strap hinges secured with coach/carriage bolts to
fit. These are a typical French 'fishtail' design, very suitable for by the sea and were available at my local hardware store.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMgNtvCBp6RFtdmAF-0kN5hfQSY7c_ZDuzGNtYF5OxFBvqVmvTUTqY1Ul8Z-dV-Xr3qc852iJc0CSucIUrv7O4wwoW0IyCtV_GHnviHwWvRbrTHZVlm8RfTlZQS-7rmCNFFiSHeHt6CKg/s1600/IMG_1479blog.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Pallet Wood Driveway Gates choosing spring-loaded casters" border="0" data-original-height="1197" data-original-width="1600" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMgNtvCBp6RFtdmAF-0kN5hfQSY7c_ZDuzGNtYF5OxFBvqVmvTUTqY1Ul8Z-dV-Xr3qc852iJc0CSucIUrv7O4wwoW0IyCtV_GHnviHwWvRbrTHZVlm8RfTlZQS-7rmCNFFiSHeHt6CKg/s400/IMG_1479blog.JPG" title="Spring-loaded casters for Pallet Wood Driveway Gates" width="400" /></a></div>
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For the wheels: I ordered two from Amazon UK they were <b>spring-loaded gate casters from Fixman</b>.<br />
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A very similar type are also available from Amazon.com in the USA from <b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Shepherd-Hardware-9785-4-Inch-Capacity/dp/B000I1A8H6/ref=as_li_ss_tl?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000I1A8H6&pd_rd_r=7912ae53-c4a7-11e8-82da-57b640a56e37&pd_rd_w=D6UXU&pd_rd_wg=7veXp&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3f9889ac-6c45-46e8-b515-3af650557207&pf_rd_r=W40YBZJYGS1SKTFY2PEC&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=W40YBZJYGS1SKTFY2PEC&linkCode=ll1&tag=thegreenlever-20&linkId=1f7eeff5bf669eb13f2cbbd3bfbedcb3&language=en_US" target="_blank">Shepherd Hardware</a></b>.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqI1k9V7LCAV_JMn7b6em85jLxY0Iwbkq-0pg906r6jbOmOTFEbbYlNmdbgpE03Hc5_msz5bw4ywlOHwY9uAjdPuPFSCpKjDnYrRoNjLELSDeGN6mh_wfJhEtzUKUeLEr86iar1p0M0Bk/s1600/IMG_1482crop.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Bolts for Pallet Wood Driveway Gates" border="0" data-original-height="1055" data-original-width="1600" height="471" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqI1k9V7LCAV_JMn7b6em85jLxY0Iwbkq-0pg906r6jbOmOTFEbbYlNmdbgpE03Hc5_msz5bw4ywlOHwY9uAjdPuPFSCpKjDnYrRoNjLELSDeGN6mh_wfJhEtzUKUeLEr86iar1p0M0Bk/s640/IMG_1482crop.JPG" title="Pallet Wood Driveway Gates choosing closing bolts" width="715" /></a></div>
A pad bolt gate latch kept the two gates shut and the one gate was
held shut additionally with a garage door bolt passing into a pre-drilled hole
in the drive. Again I found these at my local hardware store.<br />
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<h2>
<span style="font-size: large;">
Construction</span> </h2>
Once I had selected my timber I cut the four vertical side posts to length from my stringers. The four faces of each side post were sanded to remove most of the machine marks and surface stains that were visible. The long top and bottom rails which made up the other two sides of the gate frame were cut to length. I had decided to cut 8 of these items so that when they were joined to the vertical side posts the front and rear rails were separated by a gap adequate for the smaller vertical slats to be 'sandwiched' between them.<br />
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All the faces of the 8 rails needed to be planed as the pallet wood planks were in an 'as sawn' condition. This was to remove the majority of machine marks and remove the risk of splinters. I decided to also use my router to machine a chamfer on the edges of all the road-facing timber, this to furnish a run-off for rain from the windward side of the property and to give a more elegant appearance to the finished gates.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf8p_3ndDTPHnXitqVUpu1sNcb6VBcPXIsUaOQ2Bpzh6UWt0eFVYxHYwgm3lWC0Xui5WqjZbiv9mWjnDqNVkOWaz23fP0D4peHfSWLtPFgbd2Q9rvre3LLVp-tW8uIWTOqsW07T31ZAt8/s1600/IMG_1425blog.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Pallet Wood Driveway Gates making lap joints" border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="476" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf8p_3ndDTPHnXitqVUpu1sNcb6VBcPXIsUaOQ2Bpzh6UWt0eFVYxHYwgm3lWC0Xui5WqjZbiv9mWjnDqNVkOWaz23fP0D4peHfSWLtPFgbd2Q9rvre3LLVp-tW8uIWTOqsW07T31ZAt8/s640/IMG_1425blog.JPG" title="Pallet Wood Driveway Gates - lap joints" width="715" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiajOzYUkfiELBXR23HW1ZGq3ZtYaoqPyDTkQbBwn9GzEDcS3qwI8tKlV1DPadg_ZEdjxpIvcNImyScl8xy7YQUjpxxhlXHQWr5LPQl7KATP_g7gOpcOMjSy32TXjFwCPwX5zoEQEeAKqA/s1600/1458blog.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Tenon joints - Pallet Wood Driveway Gates" border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1280" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiajOzYUkfiELBXR23HW1ZGq3ZtYaoqPyDTkQbBwn9GzEDcS3qwI8tKlV1DPadg_ZEdjxpIvcNImyScl8xy7YQUjpxxhlXHQWr5LPQl7KATP_g7gOpcOMjSy32TXjFwCPwX5zoEQEeAKqA/s400/1458blog.png" title="Pallet Wood Driveway Gates - tenon joints" width="400" /></a></div>
The rear top and bottom rails were joined to the side posts via lap joints so as to permit the easy fitting of the strap hinges. The front top and bottom rails, on the other hand, were fitted using full-width through tenon joints. These were the main structural joints of the gates. The space between the rear and front rails was the thickness of the vertical slats.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlMj8EHG5GoBNk7s2OTLX019vdMUBAORYIuqyDfO6Wy-D6k6O-1-DHRLVzUloU-7DZI6Azev3dCuAhhJS9QO-TcIhPV9ARoSr2IU4dvworKzirfRpMQKFH_S7NlZ1ilDSpHCZGgbg2FOU/s1600/IMG_1452blog.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Pallet Wood Driveway Gates making tenons" border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="476" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlMj8EHG5GoBNk7s2OTLX019vdMUBAORYIuqyDfO6Wy-D6k6O-1-DHRLVzUloU-7DZI6Azev3dCuAhhJS9QO-TcIhPV9ARoSr2IU4dvworKzirfRpMQKFH_S7NlZ1ilDSpHCZGgbg2FOU/s640/IMG_1452blog.JPG" title="making tenons Pallet Wood Driveway Gates" width="715" /></a></div>
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This was when I encountered my first major problem of using pallet wood in such a project; the top and bottom rail timber was over size for the tools I had to make the mortises i.e. 20mm drill and chisel plus, the thickness varied slightly between each plank, not really surprising when one considers the original use for the timber. So, I used my circular saw, mounted in its' saw table to reduce the thickness of the tenon to this dimension of 20mm.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcwr_Rj_Viwv5ngUbMAFs6nnh_07Sv9PUeTNX8WVE8IoPNcglPgU_ju_rnGPdnpvNoqvk0xxAgdGZWLWu0l-L2aVrwnvIiosMCaxRb633ClQgaFhLN4kUv6zwKUYK0I_uRHZu5vr5uCXY/s1600/IMG_1460blog.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Tenon joints - Pallet Wood Driveway Gates" border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="476" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcwr_Rj_Viwv5ngUbMAFs6nnh_07Sv9PUeTNX8WVE8IoPNcglPgU_ju_rnGPdnpvNoqvk0xxAgdGZWLWu0l-L2aVrwnvIiosMCaxRb633ClQgaFhLN4kUv6zwKUYK0I_uRHZu5vr5uCXY/s640/IMG_1460blog.JPG" title="Pallet Wood Driveway Gates - tenon joints" width="715" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8z6tgkTJnskoNPqltkMk2O3CyTcTcFocHPLcZUSwJ_D2k9IBmd4vb7eo_APj6maSUGSM8XBqLRmaqiWNGLShOVsze3I7pLZABlCZEO95_lwXbjgnDtO2-yLbgjoNqVa2arR0g5FswcfY/s1600/IMG_1461blog.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Pallet Wood Driveway Gates - mortise and tenon joints" border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8z6tgkTJnskoNPqltkMk2O3CyTcTcFocHPLcZUSwJ_D2k9IBmd4vb7eo_APj6maSUGSM8XBqLRmaqiWNGLShOVsze3I7pLZABlCZEO95_lwXbjgnDtO2-yLbgjoNqVa2arR0g5FswcfY/s320/IMG_1461blog.JPG" title="mortise and tenon joints - Pallet Wood Driveway Gates" width="320" /></a></div>
Each tenon joint that was cut was numbered to match its' counterpart mortise in the posts. Once all these joints had been cut, numbered and checked I could start the gate assembly. The front top and bottom rails were the first to be fixed in place, I used a waterproof PVA glue on the tenon and once each pair of rails were in place and the frame of the gate was checked to ensure it was square, I screwed each tenon in place with two screws.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZPv3lxlY_a-lLDyXQXavqlufXdPHVTB-sOIzWAwshkuU3vsEwTj_PAwc0W6P1KI5jcTGXU_oIVP4foQ_Jj3MTeRx3tOZrX_MonI5bYHtoFiTGlZ6J4FJzBCrRX5y7MVvpsoB3RofepIY/s1600/IMG_1462blog.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Pallet Wood Driveway Gates - attaching vertical slats" border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="476" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZPv3lxlY_a-lLDyXQXavqlufXdPHVTB-sOIzWAwshkuU3vsEwTj_PAwc0W6P1KI5jcTGXU_oIVP4foQ_Jj3MTeRx3tOZrX_MonI5bYHtoFiTGlZ6J4FJzBCrRX5y7MVvpsoB3RofepIY/s640/IMG_1462blog.JPG" title="Attaching vertical slats - Pallet Wood Driveway Gates" width="715" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP_c7XJM4jrBxVSrLy9fMjBAib5ZpOnbEMgOFk0Wmhs2FYHQ41UADp6VfXgTIFMzXiYOws_2DjnmWfWrfxaoR8N7hS5724RS2tljXWu89acdhi0QQjygMkCkLEohd48MR8oDW7TPYuUl8/s1600/IMG_1463blog.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Pallet Wood Driveway Gates - vertical slats" border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP_c7XJM4jrBxVSrLy9fMjBAib5ZpOnbEMgOFk0Wmhs2FYHQ41UADp6VfXgTIFMzXiYOws_2DjnmWfWrfxaoR8N7hS5724RS2tljXWu89acdhi0QQjygMkCkLEohd48MR8oDW7TPYuUl8/s320/IMG_1463blog.JPG" title="Vertical slats - Pallet Wood Driveway Gates" width="320" /></a></div>
After the adhesive was set and the final checks on the finished width and squareness of each gate frame had proven satisfactory, I began attaching the vertical slats to the inside face of the front top and bottom rails. each slat was fixed in place with a single countersunk screw into the rails. To make the gap between each slat the same I had selected an appropriate piece of pallet wood which I used as a spacer between each fixed slat and that which was being fitted next.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy2zaY4c0OxXgj-qLBnCglAiA1lLJE8dvnEVMIog8FsLev9AHt-vbVkOe51IfBNs3_sqXy5chzkuEiMz4y3gl27xQGd8EHFGK17vZO7x7obUX6pknKRkmO-SmMkksoOrnydDxJiYo3M5Q/s1600/IMG_1469blog.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Pallet Wood Driveway Gates - top and bottom rails" border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="476" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy2zaY4c0OxXgj-qLBnCglAiA1lLJE8dvnEVMIog8FsLev9AHt-vbVkOe51IfBNs3_sqXy5chzkuEiMz4y3gl27xQGd8EHFGK17vZO7x7obUX6pknKRkmO-SmMkksoOrnydDxJiYo3M5Q/s640/IMG_1469blog.JPG" title="Top and bottom rails - Pallet Wood Driveway Gates" width="715" /></a></div>
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The rear top and bottom rails were then screwed in place. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGcBGtseYgxbidR1hK-SnFDBD4UXpj4sDk-sPSCFUXkg8PI90OID4rphO_BFDIW7x2B7JIltzv4VndfwlHFYXdbQ2XlqLhSlmvxj40Nu_Z4ZqhBDzTu4EbN_SdkniRbwDVQ0Ak1VStZ7A/s1600/IMG_1684crop.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Pallet Wood Driveway Gates - Weather strip" border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1046" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGcBGtseYgxbidR1hK-SnFDBD4UXpj4sDk-sPSCFUXkg8PI90OID4rphO_BFDIW7x2B7JIltzv4VndfwlHFYXdbQ2XlqLhSlmvxj40Nu_Z4ZqhBDzTu4EbN_SdkniRbwDVQ0Ak1VStZ7A/s320/IMG_1684crop.JPG" title="Weather strip and bracing - Pallet Wood Driveway Gates" width="209" /></a></div>
To add greater stiffness to the gates I cut and fitted two diagonal braces onto each gate. The braces were of similar thickness to that of the top and bottom rails and were chamfered on their outward facing edges. The mitre cuts at each end of the brace was such that the brace could be wedged against the edges of the rear top and bottom rail and then secured in place by screwing into the vertical slats. It is important to note that the mitre was to fit the gate and was not an exact 45 degree cut.<br />
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Finally, the weather strip was screwed in place along the top edge of each gate.<br />
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Fitting was reasonably straightforward, each gate was put in the required position and was supported at the correct height with wood packing strips underneath the vertical posts. The hinges were lowered onto their respective pins and held against the face of the rails so that the bolt holes could be drilled, the coach bolts inserted and fixed in place.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqxfWcYoIZoXc81MP05aibzdX2D8SySa63kKByE4vlClRxYf-i9Tmi4vjWuE8XHGugcnhbfqVaOcAjCTIWijeiz3OYwwb87gmrM4Tt6MoLPJGhp_KtZU3Yf-pgfJCxEPaT20ykXZ19JtM/s1600/IMG_1675blog.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Pallet Wood Driveway Gates - top caps" border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="476" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqxfWcYoIZoXc81MP05aibzdX2D8SySa63kKByE4vlClRxYf-i9Tmi4vjWuE8XHGugcnhbfqVaOcAjCTIWijeiz3OYwwb87gmrM4Tt6MoLPJGhp_KtZU3Yf-pgfJCxEPaT20ykXZ19JtM/s640/IMG_1675blog.JPG" title="Top caps - Pallet Wood Driveway Gates" width="715" /></a></div>
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The final operation, before applying the linseed oil, was fitting the ironmongery and the 4 caps to the vertical posts.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWYQMqBdalOOJ5ZCO0fNGB7B_-WaWE3KBt9oPIwIiN56na8AE4o5oGuML71fjtAMrM9x10_vPD6pP5Ia5MIZtGFz_cXhFRkCQ-1V_ADJhbXxvEtQGyPvnBOHGFyl7aoHVJkzhxC7rZrMw/s1600/IMG_1693blog.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Pallet Wood Driveway Gates fitting weather protection" border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="476" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWYQMqBdalOOJ5ZCO0fNGB7B_-WaWE3KBt9oPIwIiN56na8AE4o5oGuML71fjtAMrM9x10_vPD6pP5Ia5MIZtGFz_cXhFRkCQ-1V_ADJhbXxvEtQGyPvnBOHGFyl7aoHVJkzhxC7rZrMw/s640/IMG_1693blog.JPG" title="Offset of Top Caps - Pallet Wood Driveway Gates" width="715" /></a></div>
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Note that the caps in the middle were attached off-centre on the posts this to afford a clearance for opening the gates. The other two caps were similarly offset to lend an 'art nouveau' appearance.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibXzpCRa2fdO9EgjpMbHuwPlWh4SH2m9IXbXcT2eoe9d52BM5ni6p0Gu3f4PuxZn0ywn-T1gRudcW51ducXvqjBgtX3rPVMCgyY_rDsPUtFkbJpHyMF4gko1SzD3f6zRW0X1K_2Zf4mbk/s1600/IMG_1694blog.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Finished project - Pallet Wood Driveway Gates" border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="476" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibXzpCRa2fdO9EgjpMbHuwPlWh4SH2m9IXbXcT2eoe9d52BM5ni6p0Gu3f4PuxZn0ywn-T1gRudcW51ducXvqjBgtX3rPVMCgyY_rDsPUtFkbJpHyMF4gko1SzD3f6zRW0X1K_2Zf4mbk/s640/IMG_1694blog.JPG" title="Pallet Wood Driveway Gates finished project" width="715" /></a></div>
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...and here's the film:</div>
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<iframe allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Z0YU3YJ28Zs?rel=0" width="560"></iframe><br /></div>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
If
you have enjoyed this article and found it interesting then share it
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</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Until next time and from a rainy day in Normandie,</div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Cheers, Andy</div>
<br />
© Andy Colley 2018<br />
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The Green Leverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01335293795269368752noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3199850434720533796.post-16780317913496062482018-08-20T19:22:00.001+02:002018-08-20T19:22:43.825+02:00Collimating WW2 Binoculars - A Cautionary Tale!<div style="text-align: justify;">
The first encounter I remember with my Uncle's WW2 binoculars, was at a family picnic out at an old RAF Aerodrome in Fradley, near Lichfield. These were always carried in his A35 van, in an open shelf-type compartment on the passenger's side. I never witnessed seeing them in any kind of case or cover. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbvAYMoLPNa1MJ1X8sqemXOp528EqBv12U4gMSyox5tXEZ4r5p1_cXFhBqL-xiAKXaq-OjHPLPXw-Q0YRKK-DcNwvQde8czwdubq3y3847C8ltedLWYUOTGYAyd9-q6qMoKlu0yOADbP0/s1600/Screenshot+from+MVI_4220.MOV+-+1.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Collimating WW2 Binoculars - A Cautionary Tale" border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1280" height="402" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbvAYMoLPNa1MJ1X8sqemXOp528EqBv12U4gMSyox5tXEZ4r5p1_cXFhBqL-xiAKXaq-OjHPLPXw-Q0YRKK-DcNwvQde8czwdubq3y3847C8ltedLWYUOTGYAyd9-q6qMoKlu0yOADbP0/s640/Screenshot+from+MVI_4220.MOV+-+1.png" title="Collimating WW2 Binoculars" width="715" /></a></div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://i.pinimg.com/564x/40/99/12/409912df4d4e05e4c282acc5b899cacb.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="528" data-original-width="354" height="320" src="https://i.pinimg.com/564x/40/99/12/409912df4d4e05e4c282acc5b899cacb.jpg" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">WW2 Propaganda Poster</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The other time I distinctly remember actually using them was at his
home, when he asked me if I wanted to: "look at the tanks". With the
vivid imagination of a 10 year old spurred on by the association of his
time as a Desert Rat, I somehow expected to see something a lot more
thrilling than the sewage containers at Bescot.<br />
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If you are wondering about these details, then it's because provenance is all with antiques and collectibles and if you know their history you can often come up with a (Sherlock) Holmsean solution to any problem. So, when I was reacquainted with these binoculars some 50 years later, I was disappointed that the view through them was not as clear as I remembered. The images through each side of the binocular were not in line and in fact they were pretty uncomfortable to use for anything more than a few seconds at a time. Seemingly, there was a collimation problem. As I have already collimated a pair of a more modern second-hand, Frank Nipole binoculars (article you can link to below), I did not see this as a problem.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIeD8Boz0lxAEA8ie8eQ5M6g4WMqd5M-H5cWokqEcYGXpe_GDxZbXDSjUC628QTUPWJugavZpIC3GuVGCwLV59dnLRJaL7gIpohzshK3LL93bHovRyis7OAkF1LxUMi9vjOncXHwmIePQ/s1600/Screenshot+from+MVI_4216.MOV.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Binocular collimation for WW2 Binoculars" border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1280" height="402" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIeD8Boz0lxAEA8ie8eQ5M6g4WMqd5M-H5cWokqEcYGXpe_GDxZbXDSjUC628QTUPWJugavZpIC3GuVGCwLV59dnLRJaL7gIpohzshK3LL93bHovRyis7OAkF1LxUMi9vjOncXHwmIePQ/s640/Screenshot+from+MVI_4216.MOV.png" title="Creating a Clamp for WW2 Binoculars" width="715" /></a></div>
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In order to facilitate the collimation and also because it was a good idea anyway, I decided to make a clamp for the binoculars whereby I could attach them to my telescope tripod.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivf6aMTjN8Myr18GQTApFm3YsDIUh4UuwLaapbS0snDswj6IohDUxlcgX3s-IHw1IAcbdWDAzmboRAfiU3z2KdCiAk4TRXNi5mEgLkAWGSD1xcLDw4SlpLevStqBIh_NpBr4-4P1WMUXY/s1600/P1060546txt.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Pallet nomenclature" border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="536" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivf6aMTjN8Myr18GQTApFm3YsDIUh4UuwLaapbS0snDswj6IohDUxlcgX3s-IHw1IAcbdWDAzmboRAfiU3z2KdCiAk4TRXNi5mEgLkAWGSD1xcLDw4SlpLevStqBIh_NpBr4-4P1WMUXY/s640/P1060546txt.jpg" title="Parts of a Pallet " width="715" /></a></div>
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I used a plank from an untreated pallet and also a 'stringer' from the same.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXuggxPf79JgvVM7_9WW3i8SSmJ2HGn4m1yu8pi0qsq608EcaRlaX8RihL66fnZFj2ojzZKFd9Z1FLgI5PSHFDPwNOGhp67ujoebVEd4TSu1OWhHdSIMmM5Tsjc09JgyAWVak8-uOpHnc/s1600/Screenshot+from+MVI_4218.MOV+-+4.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="WW2 Binocular collimation - clamp to tripod" border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1280" height="402" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXuggxPf79JgvVM7_9WW3i8SSmJ2HGn4m1yu8pi0qsq608EcaRlaX8RihL66fnZFj2ojzZKFd9Z1FLgI5PSHFDPwNOGhp67ujoebVEd4TSu1OWhHdSIMmM5Tsjc09JgyAWVak8-uOpHnc/s640/Screenshot+from+MVI_4218.MOV+-+4.png" title="WW2 Binocular collimation - setting up the clamp" width="715" /></a></div>
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Once the binoculars were mounted in the clamp, I oriented them so that I could look at a television aerial on a house roof some 80 to 100m away. It was very clear that the left-hand image was higher in the eyepiece than that of the right hand image and thus that adjustment was essential. Interestingly enough, vertical collimation errors in binoculars are the hardest for the human eye to compensate.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg48LlkvmSG-Tb00GOIwPOaIMw7I-ZFJGeK6Z5k0HrkCobZ4rYf_B81EGDbCAjpOyz7il86T4FXbHya086MVe7VSFK6fDSTtxs4aU_V8nbc_oC1zZ_V5voXgmg6xCL9C0nA3X7o9SzAbBg/s1600/IMG_4234blog.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Collimating binoculars without prism adjustment" border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="476" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg48LlkvmSG-Tb00GOIwPOaIMw7I-ZFJGeK6Z5k0HrkCobZ4rYf_B81EGDbCAjpOyz7il86T4FXbHya086MVe7VSFK6fDSTtxs4aU_V8nbc_oC1zZ_V5voXgmg6xCL9C0nA3X7o9SzAbBg/s640/IMG_4234blog.JPG" title="Collimating the objective lenses on a modern pair of binoculars" width="715" /></a></div>
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Unlike the other pair that I collimated (see above), the objective lenses, could not be easily rotated in their respective cells because of the design. I was thus faced with the possibility that I would have to resort to prism adjustment and this I was loathe to do! It was at this point that I began to think of provenance, in that these binoculars which had been half way around the World, lugged across the desert and afterwards spend several decades travelling around in various vehicles without any protection before they ended in my mother's wardrobe, were incredibly clean. They also showed no signs of the external damage which are often associated with collimation. This lead me to believe that they had been cleaned on more than one occasion. I therefore wondered what the odds were that the objective lenses had been removed and mistakenly interchanged.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcC2H6EhqfjmkJp3GXfnJp8X16vfmmT85Ct5qQsww0FTJL6_IiF2VRsqckHrBrI84l_2_T30Pa_sYxZX8EqRB1W98AjYpFf3ZOt-yy2AIcO5GzMLbO1nwVw7wjcDyIPljlj-VHj0lDdMA/s1600/Screenshot+from+MVI_4218.MOV+-+3.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="WW2 Binoculars collimation - A cautionary tale" border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1280" height="402" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcC2H6EhqfjmkJp3GXfnJp8X16vfmmT85Ct5qQsww0FTJL6_IiF2VRsqckHrBrI84l_2_T30Pa_sYxZX8EqRB1W98AjYpFf3ZOt-yy2AIcO5GzMLbO1nwVw7wjcDyIPljlj-VHj0lDdMA/s640/Screenshot+from+MVI_4218.MOV+-+3.png" title="Binocular collimation - WW2 Binoculars" width="715" /></a></div>
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To test my hypothesis I set up the binoculars as if for collimation and initially began slowly to unscrew the left-hand objective lens. The images started to align. So, to determine by how much I would need to rotate the objective lens to achieve aligned images (collimation), I adhered one pieces of electrical tape to the outside rim of the objective lens mount and another piece to the body of the binocular.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG-sdlOv0WAbwk7olnHmeF87mCpJa1t-S5SFa3KZRrjaN8Xms7Oju63dgsVXoOvr2MeXJCzx8JigWNoWLx6Ur-fYEAvM_GUQdbUVvW5S1jgYD15crBIn-2FEshH8k7Igo0Rmn8jPi2mcg/s1600/Screenshot+from+MVI_4220.MOV.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Collimating WW2 Binoculars" border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1280" height="402" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG-sdlOv0WAbwk7olnHmeF87mCpJa1t-S5SFa3KZRrjaN8Xms7Oju63dgsVXoOvr2MeXJCzx8JigWNoWLx6Ur-fYEAvM_GUQdbUVvW5S1jgYD15crBIn-2FEshH8k7Igo0Rmn8jPi2mcg/s640/Screenshot+from+MVI_4220.MOV.png" title="Rotating the objective lenses for binocular collimation" width="715" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu76vcJOhebvzId5LT8D7-GZUe7WSQ1Ri1KNomw8U6828IRpnkYIyKcH-_-CNjeAAZrcCCBWhcsv5RQ9U_xOhTMiiJJQA1GQdCZZfuP-wZLZVTZmSgJtrSbVoiOflM6zeXSm9kIzZS590/s1600/IMG_4231.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Collminating WW2 Binoculars - eccentrically mounted objective lens" border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1462" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu76vcJOhebvzId5LT8D7-GZUe7WSQ1Ri1KNomw8U6828IRpnkYIyKcH-_-CNjeAAZrcCCBWhcsv5RQ9U_xOhTMiiJJQA1GQdCZZfuP-wZLZVTZmSgJtrSbVoiOflM6zeXSm9kIzZS590/s320/IMG_4231.JPG" title="Objective lens showing distrinctive eccentric mounting" width="292" /></a></div>
The collimation was achieved when the lens had been rotated almost three quarters of a turn. I could not imagine how I could fix the objective lens in this position so I continued with the premise that they had been interchanged and therefore, I unscrewed both objectives. On inspection of the inside of both I could see that the left-hand objective was more eccentrically mounted in its holder. The original collimation at time of manufacture had obviously necessitated this adjustment. Therefore, that adjustment meant that once the lens had been incorrectly swapped, the view through the binoculars would be compromised. This would not have mattered if both lenses were concentric in their respective cells.<br />
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<br />
This is a cautionary tale of a problem which I, with the advantage of having known the history of these binoculars, was able to think through before involving myself in a complicated prism adjustment. Therefore, if you purchase a pair of these World War binoculars, before you resort to any collimation do first consider that, this scenario is probably quite common!<br />
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</div>
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If you have enjoyed this article and found it interesting then share it
with your friends on social media or suchlike. Please also feel free to
ask questions and or make comments.</div>
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</div>
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Until next time and from a rainy day in Normandie,</div>
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Cheers, Andy</div>
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© Andy Colley 2018<br />
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<h2>
RELATED ARTICLES</h2>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ9_EXQKsQnzAbsqRDqfMSgWSi9Xj5Lu4uxrHf9C3clWiWQY4u66f0kgMal0vGGsfElBosEl-_5jtQIjlnIPp2Tl-W30-njqDPLg1jmARqzbuhU2XC-xoAoAJ0kALOmiVWbABtLyywxbE/s1600/IMG_4097blog.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ9_EXQKsQnzAbsqRDqfMSgWSi9Xj5Lu4uxrHf9C3clWiWQY4u66f0kgMal0vGGsfElBosEl-_5jtQIjlnIPp2Tl-W30-njqDPLg1jmARqzbuhU2XC-xoAoAJ0kALOmiVWbABtLyywxbE/s200/IMG_4097blog.JPG" width="200" /></a>Binocular Collimation Quick and Easy Method without Prism Adjustment </h2>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
I was initially put off from correcting an optical fault in an old pair
of Porro prism binoculars because all I had seen or read online involved
prism adjustment...<b><a href="http://thegreenlever.blogspot.fr/2016/08/binocular-collimation-quick-and-easy.html#.V7r9gNGli1E" target="_blank">read more</a></b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBXKKQYdhYz33hNtKCZ1AQfRJqkRx4xJsz8JKl_ltDsvhXNJoeojpj9iQW6ldVYH8b3rwHttBhBbh1CytH01uwxogi2wJ-JSeiK0_irIkEELkPwPaCL58JVj22fxA6179H3fptp88y4tM/s1600/IMG_4197BLOG.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBXKKQYdhYz33hNtKCZ1AQfRJqkRx4xJsz8JKl_ltDsvhXNJoeojpj9iQW6ldVYH8b3rwHttBhBbh1CytH01uwxogi2wJ-JSeiK0_irIkEELkPwPaCL58JVj22fxA6179H3fptp88y4tM/s200/IMG_4197BLOG.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
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World War 1940s Binoculars - Perfect for Astronomy & Birdwatching</h2>
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Despite their rough and ready appearance, WWII Binocular optics were
actually manufactured to a very high standard. The companies who made
them saved on the casings and strappings but were required by the Armed
Forces to furnish precision....<b><a href="https://thegreenlever.blogspot.fr/2018/08/world-war-1940s-binoculars-perfect-for.html#.W3HRKhqYOkA">read more</a></b><br />
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WW2 Poster Art Thanks to the Pinterest board of Historygallery.com<br />
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The Green Leverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01335293795269368752noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3199850434720533796.post-15180367543045676572018-08-16T18:50:00.002+02:002023-08-08T15:04:52.223+02:00Convert Your Washing Machine to Pedal Power Part 2 - Taking Everything Apart - Understanding Design (Top-Loader)<h2>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">Starting the Conversion - Break Up to Make Up</span></h2>
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MACHINE</h2>
This is the really easy, fun part for me and it's a great way to start because it is going to familiarise you with your washing machine and how it works. In this section we are going to figure out what bits we can take off, what to ignore and what components are essential to the workings of our new machine. This is also a great exercise in thinking-on-your-feet because you can sometimes find, as I did in this case, unexpected, specific items for reuse that can save both time and money on the project. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBMPJ8XNaOZEXd9MogvW5bhH_x4Rhn2NGm6ciEQa-C5VKMlATeVDO7ozeWZiJ7xDESCdWYNWva6v-S-zJO3Vs0Z9B9y90GFH7FkP_Z-1ivVUSHPG5h6QcZRQPPfK9XCYLoOSkvvvfzdWE/s1600/Break+up+to+makeup.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Convert a broken washing machine to Pedal Power - removal" border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1280" height="402" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBMPJ8XNaOZEXd9MogvW5bhH_x4Rhn2NGm6ciEQa-C5VKMlATeVDO7ozeWZiJ7xDESCdWYNWva6v-S-zJO3Vs0Z9B9y90GFH7FkP_Z-1ivVUSHPG5h6QcZRQPPfK9XCYLoOSkvvvfzdWE/s640/Break+up+to+makeup.png" title="Convert a broken washing machine to Pedal Power" width="715" /></a></div>
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As I'd already established which side of the machine the drive was on, my first step was to remove that side panel of the machine. On our 'new' top-loader the side panel was held in place with several bolts at the machine's rear <b>BUT</b> I initially was unaware of a front screw at the very base of the panel which also needed to be removed. <b>Thus I learned a valuable lesson: scrutinize the whole of the component prior to removal!</b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJIBPQ5Y_9sn3x0Rd_tcf_RN0KHCq8_fSIZEmNeWiHjwPCVIyUKusw7QZzL-ljMbrF0MdQ8XPGCJJU_Su0vqtKCH483bCJXB3LQtq202h7DXWiB0N-OxKXtaApmEIqcnSb4U8_PDXmmBI/s1600/hiddenscrew.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Convert a broken washing machine to Pedal Power - hidden bolts" border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1280" height="402" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJIBPQ5Y_9sn3x0Rd_tcf_RN0KHCq8_fSIZEmNeWiHjwPCVIyUKusw7QZzL-ljMbrF0MdQ8XPGCJJU_Su0vqtKCH483bCJXB3LQtq202h7DXWiB0N-OxKXtaApmEIqcnSb4U8_PDXmmBI/s640/hiddenscrew.png" title="Convert a broken washing machine to Pedal Power what to look for" width="715" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRV_eh-8P5MQgGE4CFqR2XNpFiO8uCyVUW4qJAGun_UY-pkARPApZkTjAWGRNthwEEiE6Jq8hG_TDH7WBSaUlcox9akp6ibKSVLtNm9PmIQtUI8lxlsqhKUI26fnKV0Q-QHMQswEmE7sk/s1600/P1070418BLOG.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Convert a broken washing machine to Pedal Power - front loader" border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRV_eh-8P5MQgGE4CFqR2XNpFiO8uCyVUW4qJAGun_UY-pkARPApZkTjAWGRNthwEEiE6Jq8hG_TDH7WBSaUlcox9akp6ibKSVLtNm9PmIQtUI8lxlsqhKUI26fnKV0Q-QHMQswEmE7sk/s320/P1070418BLOG.JPG" title="Front loader - Convert a broken washing machine to Pedal Power" width="240" /></a></div>
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<h2>
A Note About Front-Loaders </h2>
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If this is the type of machine you are to be converting then it is much easier to access the motor and drive assembly simply by removing the rear panel. As front-loaders are in general more common than top loaders, this is perhaps the most available machine you will be likely to convert. However, as the seals on front loaders can wear out over time and because of the versatility of adding washing and water to the top-loader, for say a mixed load of washing, these make for excellent conversions so do look out for them!</div>
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Back to the Present - Top Loader</h2>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh41YBG4ozotUKqtXQgNiYG28EX1wE5pVR-BUrlCtpHtAJ7ieL_fK0HBmWnF6scHiTAiu-pRy6ZFxoWQPyi1L5WXqU3jCFFzcgO8BR8554iZ4OsUsgp09aFA2B58fKTXqMu2G9itTmLbtE/s1600/Motor.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Remove Motor - Convert a broken washing machine to Pedal Power" border="0" data-original-height="1018" data-original-width="1600" height="455" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh41YBG4ozotUKqtXQgNiYG28EX1wE5pVR-BUrlCtpHtAJ7ieL_fK0HBmWnF6scHiTAiu-pRy6ZFxoWQPyi1L5WXqU3jCFFzcgO8BR8554iZ4OsUsgp09aFA2B58fKTXqMu2G9itTmLbtE/s640/Motor.JPG" title="Convert a broken washing machine to Pedal Power removing motor" width="715" /></a></div>
Once the side panel was off, the motor and drive was visible. The first thing to do was to remove the motor and drive belt, the motor is quite heavy so it may need supporting to remove the bolts - I always keep the old fasteners (nuts, bolts, washers, screws) for use in later projects. The new drive from the bicycle was going to be attached to the face of the large pulley that was connected to the drum of the machine. Something that was very evident was how freely the drum rotated now the motor was removed.</div>
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I also removed all wiring that was readily accessible either disconnecting the contacts or simply snipping the wire out with cutters.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJoJLOeINh-dfIhYUTixqtGHZ8YAVwPWg2hT7_nmx-y2yGVt3UbN4NDA1sazpNyOTNEEBeeruJXrH2mFc9dFyv3wJD23XhTr3xzVap7zkjhuje2oeLJqM23IJNGNt3pPeEbb_oY7TS0OE/s1600/Screenshot+from+Wahing+machine+PART+2.avi+-+1.JPEG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span id="goog_106003844"></span><img alt="Remove concrete - Convert a broken washing machine to Pedal Power" border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="402" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJoJLOeINh-dfIhYUTixqtGHZ8YAVwPWg2hT7_nmx-y2yGVt3UbN4NDA1sazpNyOTNEEBeeruJXrH2mFc9dFyv3wJD23XhTr3xzVap7zkjhuje2oeLJqM23IJNGNt3pPeEbb_oY7TS0OE/s640/Screenshot+from+Wahing+machine+PART+2.avi+-+1.JPEG" title="Convert a broken washing machine to Pedal Power - remove concrete" width="715" /><span id="goog_106003845"></span></a></div>
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On the side of the drum could be seen a large concrete block and I could get my hand around the other side of the drum and feel a similar one on the opposite side. These are used to help damp out vibration especially when the drum is being driven at elevated speeds i.e. spin drying. The more sedate speeds of pedal-power render these blocks useless and so I removed it from the drive side. The block was heavy and so I had to be ready to support the weight when the last bolt was removed, again keeping the bolts and washers for later use.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHCntCUVCPbhpk-0xKqxiIFEne-3hjBeytxba73OVgjy4r1iUwbJ_75YqgNGDwMGHF3kEjNFj_GwgXHgyuMp1AjBkYYVdCGXbM7Nh0hqd0GIFupgOapfohjOdOFNDPDLvtu1MI5jiups8/s1600/Dampers%2526Springs.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Washing machine to pedal power conversion" border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1280" height="402" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHCntCUVCPbhpk-0xKqxiIFEne-3hjBeytxba73OVgjy4r1iUwbJ_75YqgNGDwMGHF3kEjNFj_GwgXHgyuMp1AjBkYYVdCGXbM7Nh0hqd0GIFupgOapfohjOdOFNDPDLvtu1MI5jiups8/s640/Dampers%2526Springs.png" title="Converting a broken washing machine to pedal power - Springs & Dampers" width="715" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE_KJBezo5B5Cdpt9t_kVyNJAZ28O5zye7jLMt4yI5a18mfzakhteGgdfFFxyOgRxbkRuqKxy-UXnF0Nd_3fEez10wKGyTWXrZS7nEqs7fLptEcTbzKg-Am6uNNsPs5wYmR3WGA8EhMoo/s1600/IMG_0279crop.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Washing machine to pedal power conversion" border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1386" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE_KJBezo5B5Cdpt9t_kVyNJAZ28O5zye7jLMt4yI5a18mfzakhteGgdfFFxyOgRxbkRuqKxy-UXnF0Nd_3fEez10wKGyTWXrZS7nEqs7fLptEcTbzKg-Am6uNNsPs5wYmR3WGA8EhMoo/s320/IMG_0279crop.JPG" title="Washing machine to pedal power conversion - wooden wedges" width="277" /></a>With the one block off one could see that the drum moves on suspension springs and/or hydraulic dampers these are another part of vibration removal to prevent the machine from waltzing around the kitchen or utility room again I wanted to remove them but before doing so I needed to support the drum directly to the chassis of the machine.</div>
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The drum does not need to have any ability to move freely in its supports. With our old machine I had fashioned two large wooden wedges (see left) which were forced between the outer drum and the steel walls of the machine body. I thus decided that with this conversion I would fix the drum to the chassis.</div>
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<b>Important Note:
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Many automatic washing machines have two steel 'transport brackets' securing the drum to the rigid carcass of the machine. As the name suggests this is to prevent the suspended drum from bashing about whilst being shipped. If you are fortunate to have these you can re-attach them for pedal power.<br />
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The second side panel can now be removed and the concrete ballast dealt with similarly. However at this point I realised that the concrete block support brackets would make excellent anchoring brackets for the drum.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDRu-fl4hL4NzwfsQVgbgm9nc_KVu92y1M7CTGpQOTqTTmODHN-cD6P0IF-wiPygJE4pXKjMLAGvymxytirxLAX1UDcogv5TLKZ7F3Bn4k6i25lhnlwSMwZERFuweQDlkcTikpttTgg6M/s1600/Ratchett.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Washing machine to pedal power conversion - what to remove" border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1280" height="402" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDRu-fl4hL4NzwfsQVgbgm9nc_KVu92y1M7CTGpQOTqTTmODHN-cD6P0IF-wiPygJE4pXKjMLAGvymxytirxLAX1UDcogv5TLKZ7F3Bn4k6i25lhnlwSMwZERFuweQDlkcTikpttTgg6M/s640/Ratchett.png" title="Washing machine to pedal power conversion - removing concrete" width="715" /></a></div>
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This provided some fun smashing up the concrete and why I need safety equipment! At this point I also cleaned out all the now superfluous wiring from the old heating system.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtXlq3kN1W8fUoELruG2zHnF_T8BRDdGJes38bIS85kvlzFrx9mLxOrwxUzQycY_nXByPVBvK3KCxTR5VxkmNnM_32t6j72EHpe2I8RVNuLUkk_iBK5hi4-njAZjsA9spLtJM6VXuVPzk/s1600/Smashing.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Reuse - Washing machine to pedal power conversion" border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1280" height="402" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtXlq3kN1W8fUoELruG2zHnF_T8BRDdGJes38bIS85kvlzFrx9mLxOrwxUzQycY_nXByPVBvK3KCxTR5VxkmNnM_32t6j72EHpe2I8RVNuLUkk_iBK5hi4-njAZjsA9spLtJM6VXuVPzk/s640/Smashing.png" title="Washing machine to pedal power conversion - reusing brackets" width="715" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPf2bydeXm_sx3Ray4NJ8plLysKt5QYfH7ZRpljddOmNBVp_p0fd7tMkaWykPrurnwgzG0QJ0V2Hn89Ts6cHMt6XjhhTmnIepqZi57LoIuRsbmL-Cufdp8-AY33fbftuJOSQLSKQgaD7I/s1600/bracketsblue.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Brackets upcycled - Washing machine to pedal power conversion" border="0" data-original-height="436" data-original-width="658" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPf2bydeXm_sx3Ray4NJ8plLysKt5QYfH7ZRpljddOmNBVp_p0fd7tMkaWykPrurnwgzG0QJ0V2Hn89Ts6cHMt6XjhhTmnIepqZi57LoIuRsbmL-Cufdp8-AY33fbftuJOSQLSKQgaD7I/s320/bracketsblue.png" title="brackets fore reuse - Washing machine to pedal power conversion" width="320" /></a></div>
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As you will see in the following articles, these basic brackets were modified, bent and drilled to become the drum fixing brackets. This is an example of how you can 'eat (almost) all the buffalo' in recuperation projects. One wit on my YouTube channel did suggest that we could have made a cowboy garden statue out of the concrete! </div>
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With the second side of the machine removed we can now see the pump. This can be ignored because for draining the machine the flexible hose is simply lowered below the level of the drum and the water will pass through the pump chamber with little or no interference. Removing the pump would mean reconnecting the exit hose from the drum to the flexible drain hose and these diameters are not the same. This is a case where knowing when to leave well alone is really important!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTyqnsYNjSij9BBqBKvghbyzymXqqH0i4S2D_4vAN23iUXBnGvVFQRBAS-HDRDshZUy8mguH5AjV7N_TvXgK4LaNR6TBk0GvhMUaAYrpnXF8oasNkz0KuHD5CkIWxJNtuViL8HATd-OP8/s1600/Pump.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Washing machine to pedal power conversion - What not to remove" border="0" data-original-height="719" data-original-width="999" height="515" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTyqnsYNjSij9BBqBKvghbyzymXqqH0i4S2D_4vAN23iUXBnGvVFQRBAS-HDRDshZUy8mguH5AjV7N_TvXgK4LaNR6TBk0GvhMUaAYrpnXF8oasNkz0KuHD5CkIWxJNtuViL8HATd-OP8/s640/Pump.png" title="Washing machine to pedal power conversion - The Pump" width="715" /></a><br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Specific Design Considerations</span> </b></h2>
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<b>N.B.</b> With both sides of the machine removed it is very clear how flexible this design of machine becomes, i.e. that the side panels contribute markedly to the structure of the machine. You should therefore not attempt to use the machine even with pedal power without these side panels in place as the machine would collapse! Another observation on the design is that the drum is supported on bearings on both sides. A front-loading machine has no bearing on the door side, ultimately meaning it is less robust! Again this is a consideration for long-term pedal power, that you should try to obtain a top-loader.</div>
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<h2>
BICYCLE</h2>
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This model was one I had picked up just as its owner was about to throw it in the skip at our local dump. He apologised for having already removed the Shimano gearing system but I told him what I was going to use it for. He was very pleased that his well-used bicycle was going to get a second life rather than end in the jaws of a crusher! Although very much unroadworthy it actually looks really good after a shower of rain.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBLiOMNyE5kDyri6pKOZ4OIJ5y600j3SpxnJ2M-AzGQDJzxL0QnX3hCLb_mj8n1U5Abr1-E6WevFM4H-Ga5hz8yLDBYo3AABBrC-KOtTilQ7M0UQVsoOh21TSbJb1gxb5faaDo_iCq3eA/s1600/IMG_2623Blog.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Washing machine to pedal power conversion" border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="476" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBLiOMNyE5kDyri6pKOZ4OIJ5y600j3SpxnJ2M-AzGQDJzxL0QnX3hCLb_mj8n1U5Abr1-E6WevFM4H-Ga5hz8yLDBYo3AABBrC-KOtTilQ7M0UQVsoOh21TSbJb1gxb5faaDo_iCq3eA/s640/IMG_2623Blog.JPG" title="Recuperating bicycles - Washing machine to pedal power conversion" width="715" /></a></div>
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In the following articles I will go into more detail on what to remove because I have specific film footage to go with the exercise. Here therefore, I am just going to give some general pointers as to dismantling. The first thing to note, particularly if like us you are living at the seaside, where there are permanent caravans and second homes, is that most of these bikes will have been ridden along the beach, sometimes even in the sea and in true holiday spirit, completely neglected and left to rust ,<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiB56WIrlt1y2xEUcnnDx-DHJTeVVQTd-OBQ4gQCaB3YfBwHZz6bZEQzK-LkJAkfMVzw9MRxjN7bsCWGfSRY5-eDEySu5joz7rO_PiwbI2LknNHYenIvt2cKxzqnDHpBwytefysqxFMWCk/s1600/P1070408Blog.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Recuperated bicycle - Washing machine to pedal power conversion" border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="536" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiB56WIrlt1y2xEUcnnDx-DHJTeVVQTd-OBQ4gQCaB3YfBwHZz6bZEQzK-LkJAkfMVzw9MRxjN7bsCWGfSRY5-eDEySu5joz7rO_PiwbI2LknNHYenIvt2cKxzqnDHpBwytefysqxFMWCk/s640/P1070408Blog.JPG" title="Bike recuperation - Washing machine to pedal power conversion" width="715" /></a></div>
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With the exception of a lovely but unrideable one I inherited from my neighbour and which we have been using on our previous washing machine, most of the bikes we find are in the 'cheap and cheerful category. We usually get them when the owner has returned for the next holiday and found them in a sad state and carted them off to be dumped. In the main therefore these are 'cheap' supermarket bicycles made for a price with low end saddles and accessories but actually with some superb
engineering design and manufacture which goes into individual mechanical parts. This makes them the ultimate recuperation item!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDAk8WBbUt2sFbOUE1KxwNWfh-1Eor7Bzcavifx04teiqPzsI1InXaTuQ5Q1UnynxTHGkhakMAkpqCIloc0F9oIkZbqo73qlyLPzFvtccHZtb_6wjX8iALF0XRY9-6m4mKpE4Pwdvp7fA/s1600/IMG_3522Blog.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Bike part removal - Washing machine to pedal power conversion" border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="476" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDAk8WBbUt2sFbOUE1KxwNWfh-1Eor7Bzcavifx04teiqPzsI1InXaTuQ5Q1UnynxTHGkhakMAkpqCIloc0F9oIkZbqo73qlyLPzFvtccHZtb_6wjX8iALF0XRY9-6m4mKpE4Pwdvp7fA/s640/IMG_3522Blog.JPG" title="removing bike parts - Washing machine to pedal power conversion" width="715" /></a></div>
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When dismantling a bicycle therefore, you should consider that most of the bolts nuts and screws will probably have seized and you should arm yourself with a release oil like WD40, with which to un-seize them.</div>
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If you have them, bicycle spanners can be very useful, with luck, as we did once, you may even pick up a bicycle with a tool kit still in situ.<br />
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And now here's the film of this procedure:<br />
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<iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/VzLUqw7A2XQ" width="560"></iframe>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3jeLiogcwzhEW7umN4xau7vdYBS1_QUjaBP_DmAQkkjs7p8u0QX06timY8sOtD8es5dSyka3g6IEs1mg4xXPXCdAArBVH_0KBggo6g5QHok41LKE1DkEzK1TjRYWfie5SoAZz7014b6I/s1600/P1070565crop.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Washing machine to pedal power conversion" border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="1516" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3jeLiogcwzhEW7umN4xau7vdYBS1_QUjaBP_DmAQkkjs7p8u0QX06timY8sOtD8es5dSyka3g6IEs1mg4xXPXCdAArBVH_0KBggo6g5QHok41LKE1DkEzK1TjRYWfie5SoAZz7014b6I/s320/P1070565crop.JPG" title="Washing machine to pedal power conversion - wahing on a rainy day" width="315" /></a></div>
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In the next article we shall start to put everything back together and be well on our way to having a smart and fully functioning system.</div>
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If you read this article and found it interesting then share it with your friends on social media or suchlike. Please also feel free to ask questions and or make comments and if you found this helpful and would like to support this site you can always <a href="https://ko-fi.com/X8X01EDNU" target="_blank"><img alt="Buy Me a Coffee at ko-fi.com" border="0" height="36" src="https://az743702.vo.msecnd.net/cdn/kofi3.png?v=2" style="border: 0px; height: 36px;" /></a></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;">You can also find all my films <a href="https://www.youtube.com/user/Organikmechanic"><b>Youtube</b></a> and also now on <a href="https://odysee.com/$/invite/@Organikmechanic:0" target="_blank"><b>Odysee</b></a> </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Until next time and from a sunny day in Normandie,</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Cheers, Andy</div><br style="text-align: justify;" /><span style="text-align: justify;">© Andy Colley 2022</span><p></p><p></p>
<h2>
RELATED ARTICLES</h2>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvqFlXycldki4wFn4Cp6pbl5W9j_2vuRfL1TpKwaBHG3oYBFt5gLRUJ27GhLxyeDcJSliDJjT6F4scG2pzdxIbRuIxg4Aus6KAuMk8M4ljdU3YPyuzV_rdP90SA7AfeSfhc2bHQfpbmVg/s1600/Joint+wheel2.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="400" data-original-width="632" height="126" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvqFlXycldki4wFn4Cp6pbl5W9j_2vuRfL1TpKwaBHG3oYBFt5gLRUJ27GhLxyeDcJSliDJjT6F4scG2pzdxIbRuIxg4Aus6KAuMk8M4ljdU3YPyuzV_rdP90SA7AfeSfhc2bHQfpbmVg/s200/Joint+wheel2.png" width="200" /></a></div>
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Convert Your Washing Machine to Pedal Power Part 3 <span style="font-size: large;">-</span> Putting It Back Together (Top-Loader)</h2>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Now that the machine was stripped of the superfluous bits...<b><a href="https://thegreenlever.blogspot.com/2019/11/bicycle-washing-machine-conversion-part.html#.XdLoz3fk-V4" target="_blank">read more</a></b></div>
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<h2 class="post-title entry-title" style="text-align: justify;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2sMcUFAm6Mkwoe0GBHxVeVcWrFSWLKqfOjFtGYbcZTw5h7YehLAFcdUenkDM0YotP5-jOw-2VA9O3Cn1hIOMAqDD1Rs4g1YOQRWbR-vsP1DR63PpTUxrzlhhQ0yxmEindtVmjmok7-0U/s1600/Screenshot+from+MVI_3925.MOVcrop.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1028" height="140" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2sMcUFAm6Mkwoe0GBHxVeVcWrFSWLKqfOjFtGYbcZTw5h7YehLAFcdUenkDM0YotP5-jOw-2VA9O3Cn1hIOMAqDD1Rs4g1YOQRWbR-vsP1DR63PpTUxrzlhhQ0yxmEindtVmjmok7-0U/s200/Screenshot+from+MVI_3925.MOVcrop.png" width="200" /></a><br />Convert Your Washing Machine to Pedal Power Part 1 - Getting Started (Top-Loader)</h2>
The
most frequent reasons for machine failure is of an electrical or
electronic nature. Neither of these preclude using it, as long as the
drum is watertight. Even if you don't already own a broken machine I can
guarantee that one of your neighbours, friends.....<b><a href="https://thegreenlever.blogspot.com/2018/08/convert-your-washing-machine-to-pedal.html#.W3Rd_hqYOkA" target="_blank">read more</a></b><br />
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</h2>
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</h2>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiChAr-p4GMDbdwiumT1jjOBHOsOLJ5k7GCGlf4caScdoOnQgmc_XsYR9PVuQ9heGvOvKGJ4eYMLWSsFkczZIhUUkOHGy0_GpYlLjt0oBrN5pudMDVaJHErGMsIaMCvKZDGB9ETvNDI0cA/s1600/P1070521.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiChAr-p4GMDbdwiumT1jjOBHOsOLJ5k7GCGlf4caScdoOnQgmc_XsYR9PVuQ9heGvOvKGJ4eYMLWSsFkczZIhUUkOHGy0_GpYlLjt0oBrN5pudMDVaJHErGMsIaMCvKZDGB9ETvNDI0cA/s200/P1070521.JPG" width="200" /></a>How to Convert your Washing Machine to Pedal Power 1 - The Basic Model (Front-Loader)</h2>
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The electronic fault that arose in our automatic washing machine
rendered it useless. I knew that the machine was watertight and...<b><a href="http://thegreenlever.blogspot.fr/2015/12/how-to-convert-your-washing-machine-to_10.html#.Vmlz4npVK1E" target="_blank">read more</a></b></div>
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</h2>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2GG7-nUwePS48dO3Letd7FRYpSXVaPxOJvpUYcGcTDf1xozLG_KtzfSS3Gqd5uSJIP8JL0O7XSiI8Fzc2eHUe5romSapV9D0Al-sUrptoo17lLKtEyfXbFr6wUnEkMai-4P6LRuTWFNg/s1600/IMG_3144.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2GG7-nUwePS48dO3Letd7FRYpSXVaPxOJvpUYcGcTDf1xozLG_KtzfSS3Gqd5uSJIP8JL0O7XSiI8Fzc2eHUe5romSapV9D0Al-sUrptoo17lLKtEyfXbFr6wUnEkMai-4P6LRuTWFNg/s200/IMG_3144.JPG" width="200" /></a>How to Convert your Washing Machine to Pedal Power Basic Model 2 - Modifications (Front-Loader</h2>
We’ve exhibited this machine on many occasions and the most frequent
comment from spectators has been ‘let’s see you spin dry now!’...<b><a href="http://thegreenlever.blogspot.fr/2015/12/how-to-convert-your-washing-machine-to.html#.VmrzDnpVK1E" target="_blank">read more</a></b>
The Green Leverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01335293795269368752noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3199850434720533796.post-46805995163453176472018-08-15T10:07:00.002+02:002023-08-08T14:14:40.671+02:00Convert Your Washing Machine to Pedal Power Part 1 (Top-Loader) - Getting Started <div style="text-align: justify;">
After over ten years of pedalling, our old washing machine finally threw in the (freshly laundered) towel - it had sprung a leak which could not be repaired. Some years previously I had actually managed to get hold of a top-loading machine from the local tip, this machine had been dumped due to electrical failure but the mechanical parts were in good working order and it was watertight. I have also had several comments from subscribers asking for a step-by-step description of the conversion of a washing machine to pedal power and so I decided with this new project, this was a great opportunity. My mind was further also focused on the task by having a request from our local organic shop to exhibit our pedal powered washing machine during 'Do-it-Yourself Week'. In this new project and also not to exclude those without welding equipment I decided to make wooden supports for the bicycle.<br />
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<h2>
<span style="font-size: large;">A Broken Washing Machine Doesn't Automatically Mean Goodbye</span></h2>
The most frequent reasons for machine failure is of an electrical or electronic nature. Neither of these preclude using it, as long as the drum is watertight. Even if you don't already own a machine I can guarantee that one of your neighbours, friends or family has at least one of them in their garage. Due to the heavy nature of these beasts, most people choose not to dump them but to leave them alone hoping that one day someone just like you will come along. The good news too is that you won't need all the heavy stuff, so you will be able to remove it with impunity before loading it up. In the next article we will go into detail on what to remove.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxJWG0_VvPpXB_lbxJuT91d3Gd8Lgm4gFT9dLvnjBQoHvEWLSvu05MBBj829ChbcbnNEJa_GdDMQ3rNfN2yGtEE63ALhAS6HPGB9rSvyxMx3mgsKF-0jwvm7PBKeZwPlu19smXPs6_tBU/s1600/Screenshot+from+MVI_3925.MOV.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="washing machine conversion to pedal power" border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1280" height="402" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxJWG0_VvPpXB_lbxJuT91d3Gd8Lgm4gFT9dLvnjBQoHvEWLSvu05MBBj829ChbcbnNEJa_GdDMQ3rNfN2yGtEE63ALhAS6HPGB9rSvyxMx3mgsKF-0jwvm7PBKeZwPlu19smXPs6_tBU/s640/Screenshot+from+MVI_3925.MOV.png" title="How to convert a broken washing machine to pedal power" width="715" /></a></div>
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What better way to do the laundry than pedalling in the garden on a sunny day! Below: Have Washing Machine will Travel - a whole new career as an ambulant laundryman has opened up to me!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirICk6xRFVFKmCLc3cm_nf3J5Gx_WCgwQ9IlCLDpFry_Ho9j-lu9QOtP4OSXIoMaX3aGRI7MzDx_ijIOlnxWDELVHKD8BislxXg4EdsoiboB5VumhdEprq6JQZqe2ztIeKHBfoaDqL8Fw/s1600/IMG_3607BLOG.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="washing machine conversion to pedal power" border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="476" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirICk6xRFVFKmCLc3cm_nf3J5Gx_WCgwQ9IlCLDpFry_Ho9j-lu9QOtP4OSXIoMaX3aGRI7MzDx_ijIOlnxWDELVHKD8BislxXg4EdsoiboB5VumhdEprq6JQZqe2ztIeKHBfoaDqL8Fw/s640/IMG_3607BLOG.JPG" title="DIY washing machine to pedal power - on tour" width="715" /></a></div>
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<h2>
</h2>
<h2>
<span style="font-size: large;">Introduction - Know your machine</span></h2>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Before we start with the hands-on conversion we should familiarise ourselves with the configuration of the drive train of our own machine. This might sound complicated but in essence, this just means 'what makes the machine go round' and we need to know this so that we set up the machine and the bicycle on the correct side. Our bicycle is going to power the
machine via the chain and thus a chain wheel (sprocket) will need to be
attached to the side of the washing machine drum which was originally driven by
the electric motor.</div>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
In the case of a front-loading machine, the drum is driven from the rear, so the bicycle is placed behind the machine.</div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl5j65ssk3_Vavqbh-AEWvBqIKFLT9wUX9QZznTniPlQ-JXXajO4S_eRyIjaKciRxcIgvH4lw0wseWvMXsTii6PEF3lCVQYtcLdJVr5585Ma_3_L0ZTPeoIVPNFAriFP4mJpva_SytA7Q/s1600/IMG_3124crop.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="washing machine conversion to pedal power" border="0" data-original-height="663" data-original-width="996" height="476" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl5j65ssk3_Vavqbh-AEWvBqIKFLT9wUX9QZznTniPlQ-JXXajO4S_eRyIjaKciRxcIgvH4lw0wseWvMXsTii6PEF3lCVQYtcLdJVr5585Ma_3_L0ZTPeoIVPNFAriFP4mJpva_SytA7Q/s640/IMG_3124crop.JPG" title="washing machine conversion to pedal power - exhibition" width="715" /></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
On a top-loader, it is less evident and so we need to determine where the washing machine's
transmission is located. This is done simply by tipping
it up and looking underneath.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnSaIvuaY9MgePXGPapR3WHeFwSaq6MueQBWJRo1Ij_3Jkej3XkDcEYmR_WvlpS4_6TW68kpjc1CS3Tmre2PpZrRyFDdwbuqQm-JrJNGqnv6JPABcOFwSmVkfkUrxM4s2FtJ0oo5OZwoU/s1600/IMG_7252crop.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Broken washing machine - conversion to pedal power" border="0" data-original-height="1008" data-original-width="1584" height="455" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnSaIvuaY9MgePXGPapR3WHeFwSaq6MueQBWJRo1Ij_3Jkej3XkDcEYmR_WvlpS4_6TW68kpjc1CS3Tmre2PpZrRyFDdwbuqQm-JrJNGqnv6JPABcOFwSmVkfkUrxM4s2FtJ0oo5OZwoU/s640/IMG_7252crop.JPG" title="washing machine conversion to pedal power" width="715" /></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
Once we know where the drive is, we can establish which way round the machine will have to face for the drive to function. Here below in close up you can see the motor on the right of our machine.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJu97qRGp1u1nwaUTbAH1UCrlSp0xMXc0tVv58RFXwVPevkuMb6zWgZaeYAXzeSls-9f4zdFEQ7tnsVwIzjwnh63fEECFhfnp258y9g259B2HxgCGQDikCquUT0z33Lzxz5T1vNFld-fE/s1600/where%2527s+the+motor.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="washing machine conversion to pedal power - how to" border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1280" height="402" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJu97qRGp1u1nwaUTbAH1UCrlSp0xMXc0tVv58RFXwVPevkuMb6zWgZaeYAXzeSls-9f4zdFEQ7tnsVwIzjwnh63fEECFhfnp258y9g259B2HxgCGQDikCquUT0z33Lzxz5T1vNFld-fE/s640/where%2527s+the+motor.png" title="finding the motor for a pedal power washing machine conversion" width="715" /></a></div>
</div>
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<h2>
<span style="font-size: large;">Additional Materials:</span></h2>
<h2>
</h2>
<h2>
PALLET </h2>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
In order to create a neat laundry set up, that functions well, looks good and can be moved and relocated efficiently, I made this design to fit on a standard European wooden shipping pallet size 140 x 80 or 55" x 31½". These pallets are normally readily available but if you can only find the standard US size grocery pallet of 42" x 40" then join two of these together and saw off any excess to neaten.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhod37NsWswuRrzPMuAzkfjZWLhvb_rr-hZc_sSSgWByN15IiVEOhNNxFJP7jOdlJp2fQOlfKa4WmwyXnyh67O_r3HPZfJufldGQVD0fgvodAfbMfOhjdC44sXiX-RK1dphB9EGpFZyBTc/s1600/IMG_3587Blog.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="washing machine conversion to pedal power - how to" border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="476" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhod37NsWswuRrzPMuAzkfjZWLhvb_rr-hZc_sSSgWByN15IiVEOhNNxFJP7jOdlJp2fQOlfKa4WmwyXnyh67O_r3HPZfJufldGQVD0fgvodAfbMfOhjdC44sXiX-RK1dphB9EGpFZyBTc/s640/IMG_3587Blog.JPG" title="washing machine conversion to pedal power - set up" width="715" /></a></div>
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<br />
Using a pallet means that if, as in our case, you would like to use the machine in the garden or where there are uneven surfaces, the two machines will always be on the same foundation. Plus, the additional height provided by the pallet makes it much easier to drain the water from the machine.<br />
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<h2>
BICYCLE </h2>
Living by the seaside means that we have a plethora of discarded materials that holidaymakers leave behind, usually around the recycling bins. This includes everything from furniture and bicycles to kittens and dogs! As people around here are great recuperators, this means that everything including the pets get rehomed. Here below you can see our latest crop of bikes, on a bumper day we can get four or five at one pickup point.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQm6Z6hagaqfKpeCF70Ck8i6fmQf2sxvCOYqWFFggasRd1o1cGOP9sBZ1c-XF5Y7GLz460PKi_3HAZCewPweEtya3su18jxDds0TTNTv7nOZX1havWdPP5VqlacTL2G3_RdL3eKcUmmJk/s1600/IMG_4127BLOG.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Recuperating bicycles for use - pedal powered washing machine" border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="476" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQm6Z6hagaqfKpeCF70Ck8i6fmQf2sxvCOYqWFFggasRd1o1cGOP9sBZ1c-XF5Y7GLz460PKi_3HAZCewPweEtya3su18jxDds0TTNTv7nOZX1havWdPP5VqlacTL2G3_RdL3eKcUmmJk/s640/IMG_4127BLOG.JPG" title="Bicycle recuperation - washing machine conversion to pedal power" width="715" /></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpK-BPVggmbxaY6lB6AjTZN9_fAz1VSDJ2vq0WnHKGw0aW26sIShyeltyL6gZwsz7IBQASvn6qYa7JrlTLdRJ0E3jX7x62TDWConZBnAR7PYGuHTPHniW-8eFi67X0_8WYJ-SI1dDtE7M/s1600/Hand+sander7.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Recuperating bicycles parts for pedal powered washing machine" border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1280" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpK-BPVggmbxaY6lB6AjTZN9_fAz1VSDJ2vq0WnHKGw0aW26sIShyeltyL6gZwsz7IBQASvn6qYa7JrlTLdRJ0E3jX7x62TDWConZBnAR7PYGuHTPHniW-8eFi67X0_8WYJ-SI1dDtE7M/s400/Hand+sander7.jpg" title="Recuperating bicycle parts - pedal powered washing machine" width="400" /></a></div>
When choosing a bicycle to power your washing machine, remember that you do not need tyres or even wheels! The bare essentials would be a comfortable seat, a sturdy frame, handle bars, pedals and chain - a bell is fun particularly if you are expecting kids to help with the laundry!<br />
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In addition you will also need a <b>second chain wheel</b> (see left) and an <b>additional length of chain</b>. This is another reason to collect a couple of bicycles before you start your conversion. Remember that additional and unused components maybe of use for other projects or repairs.<br />
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<h2>
<span style="font-size: large;">TOOLS & EQUIPMENT</span></h2>
All the work involved in this conversion can be achieved with hand tools but it might be a good idea to invest in at least one power tool just to save time and effort. I work on the premise that tools are a great investment and that if you are going to consider DIY then they are essential. Similarly Safety Equipment is also a necessity, in particular when handling heavy objects and using power tools. Buying these items has an initial outlay but if you buy wisely these will last you for years of projects, for example my current electric drill is well over ten years old.<br />
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Electric Drill - Two of my favourite makes are Makita and Black & Decker<br />
Set of Bits for the Above <br />
Wood Saw<br />
Set of Spanners<br />
Range of Screwdrivers<br />
Pliers, Drift or Chain Splitting Tool<br />
Hammer<br />
Centre Punch<br />
Tape Measure<br />
Safety Gloves, Boots and Glasses<br />
Metal File<br />
Tri Square<br />
Additional if Possible:<br />
Jigsaw with blades for sheet metal<br />
<br />
Wood Screws, Nuts, Bolts, Washers and Wood Glue<br />
<br />
..and here's the film:<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<iframe allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/oFrcM79_qdI?rel=0" width="560"></iframe>
</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5eFJ3pNhtT5h-q5YFAhtYL1hgOecC9Q46qctGyMqKpU02jx2jVrG9yt0Bk6X7couzrl1B0YPFBv3qLmzSer32v3LHzUZ6cc1Q2HkKPYbg2eVtO5t7FHsKDd5navYrp0mOsIA0o6vzgzg/s1600/IMG_3597Blog.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="washing machine conversion to pedal power" border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5eFJ3pNhtT5h-q5YFAhtYL1hgOecC9Q46qctGyMqKpU02jx2jVrG9yt0Bk6X7couzrl1B0YPFBv3qLmzSer32v3LHzUZ6cc1Q2HkKPYbg2eVtO5t7FHsKDd5navYrp0mOsIA0o6vzgzg/s320/IMG_3597Blog.JPG" title="Exhibition of pedal powered washing machine conversion" width="213" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
In the next article (link below) I will be looking at taking the machine apart, removing unnecessary components and the initial stages of the conversion to pedal power.</div>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
If you read this article and found it interesting then share it with your friends on social media or suchlike. Please also feel free to ask questions and or make comments and if you found this helpful and would like to support this site you can always <a href="https://ko-fi.com/X8X01EDNU" target="_blank"><img alt="Buy Me a Coffee at ko-fi.com" border="0" height="36" src="https://az743702.vo.msecnd.net/cdn/kofi3.png?v=2" style="border: 0px; height: 36px;" /></a></p><div style="text-align: justify;">You can also find all my films <a href="https://www.youtube.com/user/Organikmechanic"><b>Youtube</b></a> and also now on <a href="https://odysee.com/$/invite/@Organikmechanic:0" target="_blank"><b>Odysee</b></a> </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Until next time and from a sunny day in Normandie,</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Cheers, Andy</div><br style="text-align: justify;" /><span style="text-align: justify;">© Andy Colley 2022</span><p></p><p></p></div>
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<h2>
RELATED ARTICLES</h2>
<h2 class="post-title entry-title" style="text-align: justify;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh42zPnmJjU2zjSy3JY1rrOVn62N29tdKXeE-XzCuWAun_rz1Fd5IevUINvcH4bCfBQ6LT0IYleXshuKc_z8lspm3ATe3iwq17HK-PNSncowSkCNP9xUMVAhw4paku3e8hQfot7nqGl_fg/s1600/Break+up+to+makeup2.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="993" height="145" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh42zPnmJjU2zjSy3JY1rrOVn62N29tdKXeE-XzCuWAun_rz1Fd5IevUINvcH4bCfBQ6LT0IYleXshuKc_z8lspm3ATe3iwq17HK-PNSncowSkCNP9xUMVAhw4paku3e8hQfot7nqGl_fg/s200/Break+up+to+makeup2.png" width="200" /></a>Convert Your Washing Machine to Pedal Power - Part 2 Break Up to Make up</h2>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
This is the really easy, fun part for me and it's a great way to start
because it is going to familiarise you with your washing machine and how
it works. In this section we are going to figure out what bits we can
take off, what to ignore and what components are....<b><a href="https://thegreenlever.blogspot.com/2018/08/bicycle-washing-machine-conversion-part.html#.W3hPahqYOkA" target="_blank">read more</a></b></div>
<br />The Green Leverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01335293795269368752noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3199850434720533796.post-35019837288309672202018-08-13T20:40:00.000+02:002018-08-20T19:42:45.416+02:00World War 1940s Binoculars - Perfect for Astronomy & Birdwatching<div style="text-align: justify;">
One of the great advantages of the heat wave this Summer has been the clear skies and absence of sea mists and with reference to fog and romance we've just returned from a trip to a Wedding in the Lake District. My wife having made her dress, my mother suggested a silk wrap she had in her own wardrobe would be the exact colours to compliment it. On a shelf below the wrap, I found my late uncle's WWII binoculars, a little battered and without a case but serviceable despite being 8th Army issue and having been lugged across the desert sands. I wondered how good they would be for astronomy, as often there are objects I'd like to view without getting out the whole telescope. Looking through the price ranges for these sturdy secondhand instruments, I now realise how suitable they are for those wanting a start in astronomy or birdwatching without the considerable layout for equipment associated with these activities.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJpAvvsRHVMQ3-w6_WEy7Ng0PTDORyH7WpGkhzSFCHqUjBqhVL9cYSY0wr-Nx25A73zmEKVmjxoeseWlQZWKMM7M3b3GYbFwrxyojQDWZSa59sv4Yf43COb2OvYxbJ372Yzmp5EXLiLHM/s1600/IMG_4197BLOG.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Kershaw World War 2 Binoculars 6 x 30" border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="476" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJpAvvsRHVMQ3-w6_WEy7Ng0PTDORyH7WpGkhzSFCHqUjBqhVL9cYSY0wr-Nx25A73zmEKVmjxoeseWlQZWKMM7M3b3GYbFwrxyojQDWZSa59sv4Yf43COb2OvYxbJ372Yzmp5EXLiLHM/s640/IMG_4197BLOG.JPG" title="World War 2 Binoculars" width="715" /></a></div>
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<h2>
<span style="font-size: large;">HIDDEN TREASURE</span></h2>
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<a href="https://i.pinimg.com/236x/0e/69/11/0e691135a830f358dc8dab7772d16350.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="352" data-original-width="236" height="320" src="https://i.pinimg.com/236x/0e/69/11/0e691135a830f358dc8dab7772d16350.jpg" width="214" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Despite their rough and ready appearance, WWII Binocular optics were actually manufactured to a very high standard. The companies who made them saved on the casings and strappings but were required by the Armed Forces to furnish precision lenses and prisms. </div>
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Many binoculars were actually given loaned and/or purchased from civilians, thus there were many variations in dates and makes to the standard army issue. In Britain all items were required to be marked with a broad arrow or heraldic 'pheon' by the Ministry of Supply, this to denote government ownership. In the case of my uncle's binoculars there is no such markings but then neither is there a manufacturer's mark either. In effect, as you can see in the photo below, the company's name has been very obviously scratched off and obliterated. Similarly, I'm guessing, has the government mark! In very many cases these useful, precision instruments were repatriated with their war-time users.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIzutGX-ztAegL2hBfirFZsHkZbcQe8LmcVlFmNC2V-q_UDqc_YXhc38K61mmpXewJCWOI2Cm5cu-ZyfYHFIuoAAHMQKad1YcI-yVEPLYVWy56FUqL3n49LfTSShIXaVk-bsgXw_0O-gI/s1600/IMG_4194crop.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Kershaw World War 2 Binoculars 6 x 30" border="0" data-original-height="902" data-original-width="1600" height="403" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIzutGX-ztAegL2hBfirFZsHkZbcQe8LmcVlFmNC2V-q_UDqc_YXhc38K61mmpXewJCWOI2Cm5cu-ZyfYHFIuoAAHMQKad1YcI-yVEPLYVWy56FUqL3n49LfTSShIXaVk-bsgXw_0O-gI/s640/IMG_4194crop.JPG" title="detail - Kershaw World War 2 Binoculars 6 x 30" width="715" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://hatchfive.files.wordpress.com/2015/11/7cd72b2bc32b8eceb9efedafd1e3b254a0642f1a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="373" data-original-width="300" height="320" src="https://hatchfive.files.wordpress.com/2015/11/7cd72b2bc32b8eceb9efedafd1e3b254a0642f1a.jpg" width="257" /></a></div>
Despite the missing markings and having researched and viewed a whole panoply of fabulous vintage binoculars from around the World, my guess is these are Kershaw of Leeds standard issue binoculars 6 x 30 known as the No 2 MkII. However, as the optical information is positioned differently to that of all the rest I have seen (below rather than above the removed manufacturer's mark) I am still open to suggestions.</div>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
Look for these binoculars online or at yard sales and car boots. They regularly turn up on ebay and in Military forums and shops. With regards to Kershaw, there is a great article (link below) on <i> stargazerslounge</i> which provides useful details on this particular make.</div>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
Left: A British Intelligence Officer with his Kershaw's No2 MkII.</div>
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<h2 style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;">BUILD QUALITY OF OPTICS & MATERIALS</span></h2>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
The army issue binoculars of this period, in almost every case, use uncoated optics. Nowadays all optics are given several coatings to improve image quality. However, from my initial views through these binoculars, I can testify that the image quality is sharp across almost all the field of view and fringing is undetectable. The reason for this is the basic optical quality of the glass used prior to WWII. </div>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
The Bakelite eyecups, which have an integral threaded brass bush within them, are an example of good engineering practice. Nowadays binoculars in this price range and above have plastic threading, which is prone to stripping if not correctly engaged.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAkcjhmHcYXPQIFBbJ2J1v1wpBwfB6aVMDNa4pnkpHKk54HCCxlFTvenVRVrZlS2d6awaJQQ4-M3Iqtg5s2cMjLXY3gTVGmMAgPSkYQ_TFJkhGVLwVzIRjjyrtNtADfW-dt4_HkM2sbYY/s1600/IMG_4196blog.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Kershaw World War 2 Binoculars 6 x 30" border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="476" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAkcjhmHcYXPQIFBbJ2J1v1wpBwfB6aVMDNa4pnkpHKk54HCCxlFTvenVRVrZlS2d6awaJQQ4-M3Iqtg5s2cMjLXY3gTVGmMAgPSkYQ_TFJkhGVLwVzIRjjyrtNtADfW-dt4_HkM2sbYY/s640/IMG_4196blog.JPG" title="Bakerlite eye cups - Kershaw World War 2 Binoculars 6 x 30" width="715" /></a></div>
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Another bonus I have discovered, is the individual focus of the binoculars, a design used prior and during the war due to ease of manufacture, robustness and waterproofing. Central focus was a selling point of the post war period but it brought with it several problems, not the least of which was it being the first component to fail, particularly, in my experience, on compact binoculars. I remember trying a pair of pricey, secondhand binoculars with central focusing in a Birmingham camera shop only to find that the focusing linkage was broken!<br />
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Ordinarily cheap binoculars do not have good eye relief, aka the distance from the eyepiece to the eye. This is because manufactures focus on magnification ("power") as a major selling point. Due to the optics of the 6 x 30, eye relief is so good that the binoculars can be used even when wearing spectacles. Poor eye relief means that the binoculars must be held right up to the eye which can become very uncomfortable for stargazing or bird watching.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4wDODU8DCzz3HichhOqWbvP9ch7Ul3VfpxtNscqt18pmtwu3yiiWYEj2HNpsS4NWn4lKiPXfOYPXRRYFBVbHnwC5oy9m1WoVhc-ASI5vPtwvQkdUrkk0l8T7B_Vn14zC4Ia-KeGElPkA/s1600/IMG_4202crop.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Kershaw World War 2 Binoculars 6 x 30 for astronomy" border="0" data-original-height="979" data-original-width="1600" height="438" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4wDODU8DCzz3HichhOqWbvP9ch7Ul3VfpxtNscqt18pmtwu3yiiWYEj2HNpsS4NWn4lKiPXfOYPXRRYFBVbHnwC5oy9m1WoVhc-ASI5vPtwvQkdUrkk0l8T7B_Vn14zC4Ia-KeGElPkA/s640/IMG_4202crop.JPG" title="Eye relief - Kershaw World War 2 Binoculars 6 x 30" width="715" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">WHAT TO LOOK FOR WHEN BUYING </span></h2>
Standard issue WW2 binoculars can be purchased for as little as single figures and many of the problems/injuries they have incurred over time are repairable. However, I would always consider the price in light of any potential labour involved and maybe pay a little more for a better pair. There were several manufacturers who made military binoculars and it is a good idea to view as many pairs as possible and get a good idea of the current market prices and values. This said, it can be very satisfying to give these great pieces of optical engineering a second life.<br />
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<b>MOLD</b> - in particular if the binoculars do not include a case, you should be aware of the fact that mold spores can enter and begin to colonise a lens when it has been kept in damp conditions. There are things you can do to control the spread of this, such as the use of UV light but it is something you should be aware of and decide if the price has been adjusted accordingly. <b>HEAVY MOLD</b> however should be avoided. Colonies of mold can actually etch the glass of the lens, causing damage which will need expert and costly repair.</div>
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<b>DAMAGED LENS ELEMENTS</b> - this occurs with the age of the instrument, the cement joining two lens elements deteriorates. However, solutions exist whereby the lens elements can be separated, cleaned and re-glued. Again consider this in relation to the asking price.</div>
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<b>OUTGASSING</b> - the oil and grease within the casing of the binoculars can sometimes deteriorate with age causing a process known as outgassing which can leave a deposit or film on the optics and housing. This will show up as a misting or hazing when the binocular is used, resulting in a loss of contrast. It is often difficult and costly to repair.</div>
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<b>CRACKED OR BROKEN LENSES OR PRISMS</b> - I would only consider these for spares and repairs. It is sometimes both practical and certainly economical to buy a couple of damaged pairs and make one good serviceable one!</div>
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<b>GENERAL APPEARANCE & MECHANICAL FUNCTION</b> - Given that most of these binoculars were manufactured for years of War Service, envisaging various climates and environments they are built for robustness and not looks. Do not be put off purchasing due to a shabby or paint-chipped exterior. This is to be expected as these items have quite literally 'been through the wars'. However, there are certain elements which are crucial if you are going to want to use these in the field. Here is a short checklist of what I look for:</div>
<b>Central Hinge</b> is not loose,<br />
<b>Focussing Mechanism</b> is smooth,<br />
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<b>Denting</b> to body is superficial and nothing that could indicate interior damage or initiate further problems.</div>
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<b>Cleanliness of Optics</b> - although a certain amount of dust and grime is to be expected and can with care be removed, highly contaminated lenses may mean poor storage and are perhaps indicative of further and more serious neglect. </div>
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<b>Indications of Cleaning</b> - be aware that an inexperienced seller may have 'cleaned' the optics prior to offering for sale. Unless done with care, this process can have caused more harm than good, resulting in scratched or damaged optics. In effect there is a school of thought that believes that dust actually makes little difference to viewing and that it is better to purchase those binoculars that show honest use rather than a last minute pamper.</div>
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<b>Indications of Bad DIY</b> - get a feel for what the exact model or make of binoculars should look like and be aware of additions in the way of screws, nuts and bolts that indicate the binoculars have been taken apart or missing parts have been replaced with inappropriate substitutes. At the same time, you should also consider that some repairs may have been made 'in the field' and with care. These interventions, like those to antique furniture, can be classed as 'honest repairs' and reinforce the premise that these were/are excellent instruments and well worth restoring. </div>
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<b>Indications of Repainting</b> - as already discussed the body of the binoculars unless badly dented/damaged has no impact on the quality of the optics. However, repainting the body can cause many of the working and/or removable parts to become sealed and inoperative. Personally I would avoid heavily repainted pairs of binoculars, removing this sort of paint from joints is a difficult operation. However, if the binoculars are fully functioning and the price is low enough, I would reconsider. </div>
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<b>Collimation</b> - this is when the optics in each side of the binocular are misaligned resulting in two images being seen rather than one. The degree of misalignment can be slight to excessive and if the former is the case then you may be able to use them as is but you will rapidly get eye strain. However, the <b>Recollimation</b> of binoculars is not impossible and you may be able to pick up a bargain even in high end WWI or II binoculars with this fault. In the next article I will look at my own WWII binoculars as a case study, which will include recollimation.</div>
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<h2>
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<span style="font-size: large;">IDEAS FOR REFERENCE BOOKS</span></h2>
There are some really excellent books for binocular and small telescope astronomy and one of my favourites is 'Turn Left At Orion' by Guy Consolmagno and Dan Davis. This provides the novice astronomer with a great introduction to many striking celestial objects in a simple, clear way. It's a book I still go back to for reference after many years of observing the skies.<br />
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Another choice for me would be, "Binocular Highlights" by Gary Seronik, as a great manual for observing the night sky and again accessible to both the beginner and experienced astronomer. <br />
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I also have a great fondness for and appreciation of the books of Patrick Moore and own several authored by him. Binocular Astronomy is in the Patrick Moore Series was written by Stephen Tonkin, who I know from his excellent works 'Amateur Telescope Making', these books too are well worth checking out.<br />
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I would further suggest buying these books in the 'spiral' version (where available) as they will get constant use and are more robust in this format.<br />
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Please feel free to share this article, comment and/or ask for further information.<br />
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Until next time!
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Cheers, Andy<br />
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© Andy Colley 2018<br />
<h2>
RELATED ARTICLES </h2>
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</h2>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbxOh_nDiNRmjLaHfUJ2KF_uN_zCpIU3eiLCzxHHspKOtqJbyuhL51lJqoaMJ-mNCAJPDc9o-vwpUak5jpG59E_2lwIm7K90fZaTxNTZCOJTx8g1Vw1XKcMvcv3JjfwZiYfrapTcNAZrk/s1600/Screenshot+from+MVI_4220.MOV+-+1.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1280" height="112" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbxOh_nDiNRmjLaHfUJ2KF_uN_zCpIU3eiLCzxHHspKOtqJbyuhL51lJqoaMJ-mNCAJPDc9o-vwpUak5jpG59E_2lwIm7K90fZaTxNTZCOJTx8g1Vw1XKcMvcv3JjfwZiYfrapTcNAZrk/s200/Screenshot+from+MVI_4220.MOV+-+1.png" width="200" /></a></div>
<h2 style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;">Collimating World War 2 Binoculars</span></h2>
Unlike
the more modern pair I collimated, the objective
lenses on these could not be easily rotated in their respective cells. I
was thus faced with the possibility that I would have to
resort to prism adjustment and this I was loathe to do! It was at this
point...<b><a href="https://thegreenlever.blogspot.com/2018/08/collimating-ww2-binoculars-cautionary.html#.W3r4-BqYOkA" target="_blank">read more</a></b><br />
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Ref: Link to Stargazerslounge article <span style="background-color: yellow;"><b><a href="https://stargazerslounge.com/topic/41492-kershaw-no2-mk2-army-binoculars/" target="_blank">here</a></b></span></div>
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Thanks to Hubpages of Briseham for the WW2 Poster and <i>Tales from the Supply Depot</i> Blog for the photo of the British Intelligence Officer<br />
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The Green Leverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01335293795269368752noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3199850434720533796.post-24940125816952702822017-11-30T17:44:00.002+01:002017-11-30T17:57:12.568+01:00DIY Studio Lights From Recuperated Materials<div style="text-align: justify;">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNrRz38SDjff0o3oTgSQOiJbS-lo06jCnJAln2Ti6AYz1pfsXxar1CyE1JPksQet4_Xpxt3HzxQ5LyF_RMR2Gz5mdbpToPMym7hi0a7BhGLEJrPAGmUFWAc2jtj0-sUPINiOxsQMfxS7M/s1600/IMG_0512blog.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="DIY Studio Lights Recuperated Materials " border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="551" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNrRz38SDjff0o3oTgSQOiJbS-lo06jCnJAln2Ti6AYz1pfsXxar1CyE1JPksQet4_Xpxt3HzxQ5LyF_RMR2Gz5mdbpToPMym7hi0a7BhGLEJrPAGmUFWAc2jtj0-sUPINiOxsQMfxS7M/s640/IMG_0512blog.JPG" title="DIY Studio Lights From Recuperated Materials " width="365" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Completed Studio Light</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Anyone who takes photos or makes videos especially indoors realises the importance of good lighting.
Some years ago I made a floodlight using a bright, low energy bulb fitted into a reflector-lined bowl. The bowl was a plastic garden planter and the whole thing cost me next to nothing to make, the most costly item being a 1 Euro low energy bulb. This light has performed well except despite being sufficiently bright, the colour of the illumination tended to the yellow-orange end of the spectrum.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2B_GRLiGxjeuvNJSXXZDPX7mpYK3BmbjqWM1Pr0D9-oS_Y83hFpxoJmMUwfh9_Gna_UM6a0u6tkv8S2OSjo1n5lkPl4acgfhh5GUDXCAMs23X4dAdM0uWmSMFNj3cb2Iy9oGi8U1tm-M/s1600/compare.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="318" data-original-width="797" height="120" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2B_GRLiGxjeuvNJSXXZDPX7mpYK3BmbjqWM1Pr0D9-oS_Y83hFpxoJmMUwfh9_Gna_UM6a0u6tkv8S2OSjo1n5lkPl4acgfhh5GUDXCAMs23X4dAdM0uWmSMFNj3cb2Iy9oGi8U1tm-M/s200/compare.png" width="300" /></a>
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Although we have been to work around this problem by photographing in daylight, that is not always possible. For example, it precludes us working at night and causes problems on dull Winter days! We have recently taken on two projects which require us to photograph outside daylight hours. Furthermore, these projects one involving food photography and the other animation will require a professional lighting approach. In particular the animation will need precise, consistent and controllable illumination of the subjects and set.</div>
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(Photo below of set taken with our tablet).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4j4lbftmN0fJJ9OlAHibo2-u9cJFI0KGQ1l9Tnz_8Uu0gJwhfb2w8ajfrM7L6-ckb2-oEWXC32fpo5qb8dv-Ms4gv6PVkOws2vMjaAFL5Xq46TURAUEL_obehyphenhyphenaMMS2oyGk0b8qhepUs/s1600/IMG_20171125_234921.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="DIY Studio Lights From Recuperated Materials Animation Set" border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="640" height="536" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4j4lbftmN0fJJ9OlAHibo2-u9cJFI0KGQ1l9Tnz_8Uu0gJwhfb2w8ajfrM7L6-ckb2-oEWXC32fpo5qb8dv-Ms4gv6PVkOws2vMjaAFL5Xq46TURAUEL_obehyphenhyphenaMMS2oyGk0b8qhepUs/s640/IMG_20171125_234921.jpg" title="DIY Studio Lights From Recuperated Materials " width="715" /></a></div>
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<h2>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">PHASE ONE - PROTOTYPE SINGLE FIXED ARM</span></h2>
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<span style="font-size: large;">
MATERIALS</span></h2>
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These were simply recuperated light fittings, a couple of 6500K 11W 230V daylight bulbs and pallet wood.</div>
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<h2>
<span style="font-size: large;">STEP ONE - THE STAND </span></h2>
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The light fittings I had recuperated were on a metal support which was pivoted such that the angle of the fitting and hence the light could be swung through an arc of 180 degrees. In addition to this movement I wanted the height of the two lamps to be adjustable.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7oR2TwM9Pza-atpQVmj2IqoUMVIEiiZXTuRpETsQMaIKXDIWGJe8TuLJ-UBsQdlfpdsYvN2mS070Vy_XJSUYOZVmze5OkxFoD7hnJpejomIUD5u3zAEqSidouLtjLi6zbAas3v7TRdS8/s1600/IMG_2600blog.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7oR2TwM9Pza-atpQVmj2IqoUMVIEiiZXTuRpETsQMaIKXDIWGJe8TuLJ-UBsQdlfpdsYvN2mS070Vy_XJSUYOZVmze5OkxFoD7hnJpejomIUD5u3zAEqSidouLtjLi6zbAas3v7TRdS8/s320/IMG_2600blog.JPG" width="213" /></a></div>
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Some years ago I made a wooden base for a large garden umbrella/sunshade.<br />
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The tube of the umbrella fits into the square support hole of the base and the stand for the lights should likewise fit this aperture.<br />
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We have been using this stand on our old light, (see left) and it has worked well and given us a solid support. <br />
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I selected two pallet wood planks, 180cm (71”) long for the stand, their combined thickness large enough to fit the base hole. I cut each plank to width (the same dimension as the combined thickness). Before I glued and nailed the planks together, I cut a central slot 74cm (29”) long running down each plank, this to allow a 10mm diameter bolt to slide within it.</div>
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The slot was cut was made using the circular saw, the guide of which was set so the cut was made 5mm (3/16”) from the centre line. After the first cut for the slot was completed, I turned the plank over and made the second cut thus avoiding the need to alter the guide on the saw – the symmetry of the cuts being around the central axis of the plank. The second plank was cut the same way. I drilled a 10mm diameter hole at the ends of the saw cuts thus allowing the central portion to be removed.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP0ntXaEo44D57BegQs_oQKT3oVeD8skFHaWjcOq5JjfaGt83Tj9ldiIA1pVZbq-9xYQoNJqXUzMLH86G6mtdSqM-lArDHyoiGbTbTMhX4M3_0vbVh9XRbd0828sLrjs4hUOGmRvHXWq0/s1600/Screenshot+from+MVI_9129.MOV.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="DIY Studio Lights From Recuperated Materials " border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1280" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP0ntXaEo44D57BegQs_oQKT3oVeD8skFHaWjcOq5JjfaGt83Tj9ldiIA1pVZbq-9xYQoNJqXUzMLH86G6mtdSqM-lArDHyoiGbTbTMhX4M3_0vbVh9XRbd0828sLrjs4hUOGmRvHXWq0/s320/Screenshot+from+MVI_9129.MOV.png" title="DIY Studio Lights - Recuperated Materials " width="320" /></a></div>
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<br />
The planks were placed on top of each other to check that the two slots aligned when the outer edges were aligned. The planks were then joined together using PVA wood adhesive and nails.<br />
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<h2>
<span style="font-size: large;">STEP TWO - LIGHT SUPPORT ARM</span></h2>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Initially I decided to mount both fittings at the ends of a common horizontal arm 100cm (39”) long once again a pallet plank. A 10mm threaded bar at the midpoint of the plank attached it to the stand through the slot. I made a large knob with a 10mm nut fitted into it.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQPkgQCZSLIXSHLLsl_x0t6OpRw9Pwfl5Mh1hkp460M4LqorzLENI-Uejh3-GuAdGR5ca_7Xo0tur0Ba0-0pYJ5oyPkte6FADL5eV1Br1N7e8eaf9XooRVk5gDApzUTgkAeEZPVjChppw/s1600/Cut+knob.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="DIY Studio Lights From Recuperated Materials " border="0" data-original-height="718" data-original-width="906" height="253" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQPkgQCZSLIXSHLLsl_x0t6OpRw9Pwfl5Mh1hkp460M4LqorzLENI-Uejh3-GuAdGR5ca_7Xo0tur0Ba0-0pYJ5oyPkte6FADL5eV1Br1N7e8eaf9XooRVk5gDApzUTgkAeEZPVjChppw/s320/Cut+knob.png" title="DIY Studio Lights - Recuperated Materials " width="320" /></a></div>
The knob was large enough to ensure sufficient tightening force could be applied to secure the arm in position without recourse to a spanner.
The knob was turned from a nail-free pallet block.<br />
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I turned the block to 60mm (2”) diameter which I felt was a comfortable fit for my hand. A counterbored hole was made in the centre of one face of the knob, slightly smaller than a 10mm nut and deeep enough for the nut to be flush with the face. A clearance hole for the 10mm bar was drilled through the central long axis of the knob.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIoVvI1tKRCiaMSPldumU6Y9fhyphenhyphentzpscmHQC2b6fj-VcwDT_ePYrrYK2eJrjSkFLPHqM09ZOuQIjBs2pk_zs2UZ0FCiLClYhT1MsjCGOCmOIucGyFbd8EJWgudG83M6CARf1ubye7m-Ko/s1600/Turn.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="DIY Studio Lights From Recuperated Materials Turning Handle" border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1005" height="513" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIoVvI1tKRCiaMSPldumU6Y9fhyphenhyphentzpscmHQC2b6fj-VcwDT_ePYrrYK2eJrjSkFLPHqM09ZOuQIjBs2pk_zs2UZ0FCiLClYhT1MsjCGOCmOIucGyFbd8EJWgudG83M6CARf1ubye7m-Ko/s640/Turn.png" title="DIY Studio Lights From Recuperated Materials " width="715" /></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
The knob was placed between the jaws of a bench vice and the nut was placed over the recessed hole. The vice was then closed on the knob forcing the nut into the undersized hole until it was flush with the knob face.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinTYnFwuempz7jNO2mQkwbzZwvamyGaBOxMsU60hxWhFTwePVbGxzbtabAXTvPeOERFzsDt1H8aDdvIeVEwy2SQ4NfU0bNPCGK2GNQFaNST-6gjoCUfCwCLQgfDc2D5fHgmoAuePnHH70/s1600/IMG_9124blog.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="DIY Studio Lights From Recuperated Materials " border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="476" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinTYnFwuempz7jNO2mQkwbzZwvamyGaBOxMsU60hxWhFTwePVbGxzbtabAXTvPeOERFzsDt1H8aDdvIeVEwy2SQ4NfU0bNPCGK2GNQFaNST-6gjoCUfCwCLQgfDc2D5fHgmoAuePnHH70/s640/IMG_9124blog.JPG" title="DIY Studio Lights - Recuperated Materials " width="715" /></a></div>
</div>
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The light fittings were attached at the extreme ends of the arm and this was then attached to the stand.<br />
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Now if you'd like, sit back and watch the film, where you will also see the results of the lighting tests and comparison between our old and new lights.<br />
<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="402" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/1A05r27ArzU?rel=0" width="715"></iframe>
Part Two will be coming shortly.<br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br />
Please feel free to share this article, comment and/or ask for further information.</div>
<br />
Until next time!
<br />
<br />
Cheers, Andy<br />
<br />
<br />
© Andy Colley 2017<br />
<br />The Green Leverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01335293795269368752noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3199850434720533796.post-6768082961249200332017-08-03T13:53:00.001+02:002017-08-03T14:39:17.749+02:00Simple and Elegant Hanging Wall Planter from Orange Box and Pallet Wood<div style="text-align: justify;">
These planters are very easy to make with hand tools, look stylish, can be finished with earth pigments to suit your colour scheme and despite their delicate appearance are robust and long lasting. The boxes pictured are in their fourth year of use and have all been kept outside.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC9GwYA6Yo6-icKdh-dScqxFi1j-d59i16ORvMvQu4dghCsF7ubMUAp-8cLWnrYdmQtoBVq8p8KaGBzKg1UA4RRdnKd55BtiwRu0km25cZ4LgvwPPtpxqRmMp0rSn-TCLniA6l7nVOWnM/s1600/IMG_8905blog.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="How to make a reclaimed wood hanging planter" border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="477" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC9GwYA6Yo6-icKdh-dScqxFi1j-d59i16ORvMvQu4dghCsF7ubMUAp-8cLWnrYdmQtoBVq8p8KaGBzKg1UA4RRdnKd55BtiwRu0km25cZ4LgvwPPtpxqRmMp0rSn-TCLniA6l7nVOWnM/s640/IMG_8905blog.JPG" title="Orange box and palletwood planter planted up with verbena and nasturtiums" width="715" /></a></div>
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Not only are they decorative but practical too in that they can be used to grow edible flowers, herbs and other compact food plants. They are also good at retaining water and encouraging root growth because their design allows for a substantial depth of soil.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-ckw55N0r67eTZ7zqPsEl-sDH_fBpHzwPIKi9atWVC65xCks0vRdInbqAJqvGfAlFPm0dr6pTeGQ8YULX96xyUTwzAiUKhPrOlT6XaC4wltxs9Q5Z89aF22ejpS_9YhV0ytqCWOYQIOs/s1600/IMG_8917BLOG.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="How to make an easy and elegant reclaimed wood hanging planter" border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="477" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-ckw55N0r67eTZ7zqPsEl-sDH_fBpHzwPIKi9atWVC65xCks0vRdInbqAJqvGfAlFPm0dr6pTeGQ8YULX96xyUTwzAiUKhPrOlT6XaC4wltxs9Q5Z89aF22ejpS_9YhV0ytqCWOYQIOs/s640/IMG_8917BLOG.JPG" title="hanging reclaimed wood planter how to - planted with succulents" width="715" /></a></div>
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<h2>
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<span style="font-size: large;"></span></h2>
<h2>
<span style="font-size: large;">MATERIALS</span></h2>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
The ubiquitous untreated pallet and fruit crate wood, the latter is the sort that contains oranges and we find it easily at our local organic shop but any similar scrap wood will work. </div>
Wood glue<br />
Small nails or panel pins<br />
screws<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXfcuWKKAUkT2Rd59-60-pjEsjYp3uanGO3PEBOubMROYOPDLU2mPPdzwupKr9XVeGOvnFyFX2Zp_sn4IKVl-7vtWfss0N1PzkZGx6wpBcEuPUEZOE_RNrbEHH0qdMN0RWrK9GehuoZoU/s1600/IMG_8911BLOG.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="How to make an easy and elegant reclaimed wood hanging planter" border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="477" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXfcuWKKAUkT2Rd59-60-pjEsjYp3uanGO3PEBOubMROYOPDLU2mPPdzwupKr9XVeGOvnFyFX2Zp_sn4IKVl-7vtWfss0N1PzkZGx6wpBcEuPUEZOE_RNrbEHH0qdMN0RWrK9GehuoZoU/s640/IMG_8911BLOG.JPG" title="Hanging pallet wood and orange box planter on a pallet wood door" width="715" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9KeHirp0fuDUK8Y2YcichGl_HqQ5LtIyRZvmrpXlOoPmVaycYupDcKr7L1ecpWmzKJ78kRr1DkMsJVfAOj7ude6Hl4DVQmj8I1bMeJLLqfX88VqmhCvhN2mM_T7j1yw1M_P0nyx7Nhkc/s1600/IMG_8949BLOG.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="How to make a easy hanging pallet wood planter from recuperated wood" border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9KeHirp0fuDUK8Y2YcichGl_HqQ5LtIyRZvmrpXlOoPmVaycYupDcKr7L1ecpWmzKJ78kRr1DkMsJVfAOj7ude6Hl4DVQmj8I1bMeJLLqfX88VqmhCvhN2mM_T7j1yw1M_P0nyx7Nhkc/s320/IMG_8949BLOG.JPG" title="Hanging pallet wood planter on pallet wood trellis" width="213" /></a>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR61g5vkxCsYXkoJgJPWGqHXQwdaU5i_aInGNEQQ0A_E-pg3m4MqnYykCX2OTGFGMWr-r1AbCDBNmfeW5I22WCPTaGtkXxl8GYgod7wUipH8D3geQuJ0qLXD4uvpcagbYWTMzZKeBAC-M/s1600/IMG_8955Blog.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="DIY recuperated wood hanging planters" border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR61g5vkxCsYXkoJgJPWGqHXQwdaU5i_aInGNEQQ0A_E-pg3m4MqnYykCX2OTGFGMWr-r1AbCDBNmfeW5I22WCPTaGtkXxl8GYgod7wUipH8D3geQuJ0qLXD4uvpcagbYWTMzZKeBAC-M/s320/IMG_8955Blog.JPG" title="Easy and elegant home-made recuperated wood planters" width="213" /></a>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1ajE1gRXNj_j8Rr6GdfS8rj3OguRWgRftW8wohdP1nBHfWlkxXi824KVBRUC1FkGx3gVybfdEeSeHPNKRAdG66hPY15c1JEn949_CC1x6EK9VjiUbhDgWbUU4U_DOpcNO_hmhTeH79Ek/s1600/IMG_8943BLOG.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="How to make pallet wood and orange box wood hanging planters" border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1ajE1gRXNj_j8Rr6GdfS8rj3OguRWgRftW8wohdP1nBHfWlkxXi824KVBRUC1FkGx3gVybfdEeSeHPNKRAdG66hPY15c1JEn949_CC1x6EK9VjiUbhDgWbUU4U_DOpcNO_hmhTeH79Ek/s320/IMG_8943BLOG.JPG" title="Home-made recuperated wood planters with verbena" width="213" /></a></div>
<h2>
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<span style="font-size: large;">CONSTRUCTION</span> </h2>
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Start by cutting four side pieces from the box wood, you can cut the square for the base at this point or if you'd rather, wait until you have assembled the sides.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0c8jGNGw4MKslrIBnKMQoeQ-O6y5I5B1ZsB7QdN8EZvECMtFbA64Xk3-I42y9QAxRXpSmf2CU44UklfW_Wmd_SRMHdYYkT73A9CtPQ2IsFvVWz_kSJn2nxh-AwWb4dF5qKWA3KmmZ78E/s1600/IMG_3611BLOG.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Hanging planters work in progess" border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="477" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0c8jGNGw4MKslrIBnKMQoeQ-O6y5I5B1ZsB7QdN8EZvECMtFbA64Xk3-I42y9QAxRXpSmf2CU44UklfW_Wmd_SRMHdYYkT73A9CtPQ2IsFvVWz_kSJn2nxh-AwWb4dF5qKWA3KmmZ78E/s640/IMG_3611BLOG.JPG" title="Detailed how to - hanging planters" width="715" /></a></div>
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Use a pallet block as a support when gluing and nailing the sides.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_YKXLT0-AeMOKVs7oBbDdl7FQhp1vU13bXow4AQq2hYBiF2q6AoJmeivA8duRP7nY53Rq8HbKerD9Sp0zoK0OgLQtuOzAA1b-PqY160vOVmNZe1UU9iuaOa_U24JPtMUNlo-NKiP0UG4/s1600/IMG_3613BLOG.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Hanging planters from recuperated wood" border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="223" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_YKXLT0-AeMOKVs7oBbDdl7FQhp1vU13bXow4AQq2hYBiF2q6AoJmeivA8duRP7nY53Rq8HbKerD9Sp0zoK0OgLQtuOzAA1b-PqY160vOVmNZe1UU9iuaOa_U24JPtMUNlo-NKiP0UG4/s320/IMG_3613BLOG.JPG" title="How to make recuperated wood hanging planters" width="335" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgHRDvw8Mh1ONaYnhN4ZUVZIUPkArOufFQvPIcoCp-TMbXc7w5KcXgUd9ie2heW7DM-imNfYMXnSLzh43woAYIQX4PE3hOmmEV1V9YYm9W6fx3l6zY0xpLZ7hbYWVyUZunDVlbXckc-1M/s1600/IMG_3615BLOG.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="recuperated wood hanging planter" border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="223" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgHRDvw8Mh1ONaYnhN4ZUVZIUPkArOufFQvPIcoCp-TMbXc7w5KcXgUd9ie2heW7DM-imNfYMXnSLzh43woAYIQX4PE3hOmmEV1V9YYm9W6fx3l6zY0xpLZ7hbYWVyUZunDVlbXckc-1M/s320/IMG_3615BLOG.JPG" title="Detailed 'how to' hanging planter - recuperated wood" width="335" /></a>Make the planter box in two halves and then join these together. The reason for this is to allow the two right angled sections to support each other for the final assembly.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4UADPHHLTYikht883dXqPWBycx7hQ37TEaEUcOpggrfjUVPNGpLSqFHQxRAl8rk0SFDS0Dn37yXyXotRo_vVnZNwrytzAEmsO1dGFuGs_9w-i9ZeLUkaj3ZgAxxHNn_4FuyGiaYgVv90/s1600/IMG_3619BLOG.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Recuperated wood hanging planter how to" border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4UADPHHLTYikht883dXqPWBycx7hQ37TEaEUcOpggrfjUVPNGpLSqFHQxRAl8rk0SFDS0Dn37yXyXotRo_vVnZNwrytzAEmsO1dGFuGs_9w-i9ZeLUkaj3ZgAxxHNn_4FuyGiaYgVv90/s400/IMG_3619BLOG.JPG" title="Finished recuperated hanging planter" width="400" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
The base of the box can now be cut to fit and then glued and nailed.</div>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
On some of my later boxes I used a power stapler, which I found to be quicker.</div>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
The boxes can be coated with linseed oil or with a water<b>-</b>based acrylic varnish and we used natural earth and mineral pigments to obtain the colours. We have an article on mixing and using these pigments on this blog (link at the end of this article).</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqWcB5Ehm6ULL6MnBBF-16lrVOG6wZqeASwBqa5X1PcZB0ETQlRFPUt8ramyGnG6GKVXSWt6LxX_3DObM4IQDCAMQKxk0jc0LXL5F03NIoRRdaNGoJPA8vMIt87UqCr-yToqOqCXUyGe8/s1600/IMG_8892BLOG.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqWcB5Ehm6ULL6MnBBF-16lrVOG6wZqeASwBqa5X1PcZB0ETQlRFPUt8ramyGnG6GKVXSWt6LxX_3DObM4IQDCAMQKxk0jc0LXL5F03NIoRRdaNGoJPA8vMIt87UqCr-yToqOqCXUyGe8/s400/IMG_8892BLOG.JPG" width="400" /></a>Cut a piece of pallet wood to use as the backing board for the hanger and also cut a supporting piece, from a square section of pallet wood, make it slightly narrower than the backing board for aesthetic reasons. </div>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
Drill holes into the backing board and screw the supporting piece in place.</div>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
Drill a hole at the top of the backing board to enable you to screw it to your chosen support. </div>
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</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Drill a hole at approximately a 45 degree angle into the top of the planter box, so that it can easily be screwed into the backing board.</div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Lay the box onto the backing board, making sure it is resting on the supporting piece. Then screw the box to the backing board. Thus the vertical weight of the planter is held by the supporting piece. The single screw in the box is just there to hold it in place on the backing board.<br />
<br />
Fill with soil and plants. </div>
<br />
Screw the planter to the support and then sit back and watch it grow!<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
And now sit back and watch the film.</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br />
<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="360" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/eUcEKOj1LWg?rel=0" width="640"></iframe>
</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwe_xnGmGyGuEGznNuSy1ts0mn9rVfH0QG3HGTphexkpFUmbl4DrjOcrpYphB9XTKcJRggU_NnJCD_GB6HCJL2z18p_A17lN2DxIiXpQ0ygIjlonrr8MrJaK2QzCXRhlGGP85_kKSBOzA/s1600/IMG_8925BLOG.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="How to make a recuperated wood hanging planter" border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwe_xnGmGyGuEGznNuSy1ts0mn9rVfH0QG3HGTphexkpFUmbl4DrjOcrpYphB9XTKcJRggU_NnJCD_GB6HCJL2z18p_A17lN2DxIiXpQ0ygIjlonrr8MrJaK2QzCXRhlGGP85_kKSBOzA/s400/IMG_8925BLOG.JPG" title="Recuperated wood hanging planter 'how to'" width="400" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br />
Please feel free to share this article, comment and/or ask for further information.</div>
<br />
Until next time!
<br />
<br />
Cheers, Andy<br />
<br />
<br />
© Andy Colley 2017<br />
<br />
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The Green Leverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01335293795269368752noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3199850434720533796.post-15984121887771861262017-07-30T17:13:00.001+02:002020-09-05T19:40:28.218+02:00Home-made Solar Finderscope from Scrap<h2>
</h2>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
It was whilst I was making the solar filter for my telescope (find that article <b><a href="https://thegreenlever.blogspot.fr/2017/01/diy-locking-solar-filter-for-telescope.html#.WYWtPzclFj4" target="_blank">here</a></b>) that I seriously started to think about how I was to find the object of study in the eyepiece. I knew that one recommended method was to move the scope such that the shadow cast by it onto the ground was minimal i.e. a round telescope tube's silhouette would be circular when directly aligned with the sun. If the 'scope was not aligned then the shadow cast would become elongated.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEia3u0wRob-P6UGKOy81ZTs4s9HtnHEYMySPeq35hVvB7I9V6GeoSy2xzFc4YzGbZTAqfu36OiVXZnM7RIq-wndHFYRxVDBbVbAHoZgHn-x6xKsxmp0KbNiCmpqKXiq-WN4uSoQVjyRuFU/s1600/P1120627crop2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="How to make a solar finderscope from scrap" border="0" data-original-height="489" data-original-width="715" height="489" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEia3u0wRob-P6UGKOy81ZTs4s9HtnHEYMySPeq35hVvB7I9V6GeoSy2xzFc4YzGbZTAqfu36OiVXZnM7RIq-wndHFYRxVDBbVbAHoZgHn-x6xKsxmp0KbNiCmpqKXiq-WN4uSoQVjyRuFU/s640/P1120627crop2.JPG" title="solar finderscope" width="715" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br />
I realised that for next to zero cost, I could fabricate a finder that could fit in the existing finderscope mount thus solving a secondary problem, that of the original finderscope if left without lens caps could train a focused image of the sun onto the top of my head!<br />
<br />
<h2>
<span style="font-size: large;">Materials</span></h2>
32mm (1¼") diameter offcut of PVC water pipe<br />
1 piece 50mm (2") wide masking tape<br />
1 square of silvered wine bag liner or similar opaque flexible material such as cooking foil...<br />
1 elastic band </div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie5wp-G_zIM_9zqtFP1z05dCO5dPxf9Gj5A6zK6r7nhUpcX3xliFiJ4AZnwnnL8WTv06iTw0LZtyMmKjCyrSM-gKcc_7IxqyvJDDMNNu6CVaFeP-S7JIp_V92daE2ARkhI2PBZqQWFa2s/s1600/IMG_1328BLOG.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Solar finderscope - DIY from scrap materials" border="0" data-original-height="477" data-original-width="715" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie5wp-G_zIM_9zqtFP1z05dCO5dPxf9Gj5A6zK6r7nhUpcX3xliFiJ4AZnwnnL8WTv06iTw0LZtyMmKjCyrSM-gKcc_7IxqyvJDDMNNu6CVaFeP-S7JIp_V92daE2ARkhI2PBZqQWFa2s/s1600/IMG_1328BLOG.JPG" title="Material" /></a></div>
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<br />
<h2>
<span style="font-size: large;">Construction</span></h2>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
I based the finderscope on the principle of the camera obscura, that is a pinhole pierced in an opaque film at the front of a tube would allow the sun's image to be projected onto a translucent screen at the other end (also a little like a pinhole camera with the film being replaced by the translucent screen).</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqSIjoNQrp9AW11xFqDbvLJ8AEiclOnkOuNzSXl9sdTAOp3j8Fv0RWtgeI3zRCTxOeEUF7_f3khzthF3DgCecSFC49ckLAB-kWIPsscOzBCkJozHSFrZUrw4w-FWlZIwIb9nel0LOY_nA/s1600/IMG_8930BLOG.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Making a solar finderscope using scrap materials" border="0" data-original-height="477" data-original-width="715" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqSIjoNQrp9AW11xFqDbvLJ8AEiclOnkOuNzSXl9sdTAOp3j8Fv0RWtgeI3zRCTxOeEUF7_f3khzthF3DgCecSFC49ckLAB-kWIPsscOzBCkJozHSFrZUrw4w-FWlZIwIb9nel0LOY_nA/s1600/IMG_8930BLOG.JPG" title="The front end" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
I had a short length of 32mm (1¼") diameter PVC pipe and I covered one end with a piece of opaque, silvered plastic from a 'bag in box' wine dispenser. I used an elastic band to attach the square of film. The 'screen' at the other end of the tube was simply a piece of 50mm (2") wide masking tape stretched over the end and adhered around the wall of the tube. I pierced a tiny hole in the approximate centre of the silvered plastic film.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirSf4jdGWq085XxIm2DRW7BDmFQwPj_PhR0k_ymNisl3VQdi0ffnYYRI18cQvx7fRfC2KHWeqyoKQN8FoY1vzzgOY6NRIDWfVeju_dSnE4d_hvgyNjptWFqUl_dCGBqBGH0knx6X6X6Wc/s1600/IMG_1348blog.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Fitting a homemade solar finderscope" border="0" data-original-height="477" data-original-width="715" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirSf4jdGWq085XxIm2DRW7BDmFQwPj_PhR0k_ymNisl3VQdi0ffnYYRI18cQvx7fRfC2KHWeqyoKQN8FoY1vzzgOY6NRIDWfVeju_dSnE4d_hvgyNjptWFqUl_dCGBqBGH0knx6X6X6Wc/s1600/IMG_1348blog.JPG" title="fitting" /></a></div>
</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
I removed the original finderscope from the telescope and slid the plastic tube in place. The finderscope on my Celestron C8 is a 6 x 30 and this meant that the 32mm outside diameter PVC tube fitted perfectly and still allowed for adjustment using the three screws on the finderscope mount.<br />
<br />
<h2>
<span style="font-size: large;">First Light</span></h2>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE5X8dVAFSg0Cqtzv7X6eg6Z5IMsvZ0LJjWBywgIkXLGwIGSTBizPTeddFnCzfxKheldydsYHlt_YidurDKIdtk0Eg1aKa89ZMxwxwJNJ3xEQyE9mPl4goLR8vXvGRoR4HmEaONepP6v4/s1600/Sun+Spots.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="sunspot image achieved with homemade solar filter and finderscope" border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE5X8dVAFSg0Cqtzv7X6eg6Z5IMsvZ0LJjWBywgIkXLGwIGSTBizPTeddFnCzfxKheldydsYHlt_YidurDKIdtk0Eg1aKa89ZMxwxwJNJ3xEQyE9mPl4goLR8vXvGRoR4HmEaONepP6v4/s320/Sun+Spots.JPG" title="sun spots" width="320" /></a></div>
Once the finderscope was in place and the filter attached to the telescope, I was then able to align it. <br />
<br />
Firstly I had to find the sun in the main telescope (with the solar filter in place) for this I used the technique described in the introduction. Once I was able to get the image of the sun central in the eyepiece of the telescope, it was then possible to adjust the finderscope so that the bright image of the sun was visible on the masking tape 'screen' (see image above).<br />
<br />
Fine adjustments were made to centralise the image.<br />
<br />
And now if you'd like to, sit back and watch the film:<br />
<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="360" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/8nEOdjEGNkk?rel=0" width="640"></iframe><br />
<br />
plus realtime making of the finder in under 1 minute....<br />
<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="360" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Zxq5ATHFcaw?rel=0" width="640"></iframe><br />
<h2>
<span style="font-size: large;">Modifications</span></h2>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqaOSpB124yEaos-EtNy4oSq-jQskcD5o87fryitGblzeFasZAYX1irz6gV70icwmLaHhlRdKSmqJXR0jJkv3IluNb-8I9PH3KRfjSVRHzxqm_ZtBxvGOpJeap6vXnn63VKUbymLY-QWs/s1600/IMG_1118.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Telescope for solar observation" border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqaOSpB124yEaos-EtNy4oSq-jQskcD5o87fryitGblzeFasZAYX1irz6gV70icwmLaHhlRdKSmqJXR0jJkv3IluNb-8I9PH3KRfjSVRHzxqm_ZtBxvGOpJeap6vXnn63VKUbymLY-QWs/s320/IMG_1118.JPG" title="First Light" width="213" /></a></div>
The offcut tube I used was 350mm (14") long. This was a quick job as I needed the scope for immediate use. A shorter length tube could be used and it would give a much wider field of view in which to find the sun. Similarly, with a larger diameter PVC tube. However, I used the scrap I had to hand and this fitted the existing finderscope mount.<br />
<br />
Please feel free to share this article, comment and/or ask for further information.
<br />
<br />
Until next time!
<br />
<br />
Cheers, Andy<br />
© Andy Colley 2017<br />
<br />
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